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qwerty2008

Byzantium by qwerty2008 - RADIO - Scale 1: 20 - based on the Pride of Baltimore

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Excellent work.  I wouldn't worry about the six pounders.  I think the paint job gives it a look like it's seen a bit of action and a few months at sea.  I wonder about the rudder though.  Not having built an rc model I can't say for sure but it seems in others I've looked at the rudder was made bigger then the actual ship would have had.  I would guess that the small rudder actual ships had worked but that the become less effective at this scale.  Having never sailed one I can't say if that's true.  It could have to do with the amount of maneuverability the modeler was looking for or how heavy the ship was.  Perhaps some one with experience can fill in the gaps.  It's something to think about.

 

I'll leave for an example the video of the Prins WIlliam.  You can see as he is setting it in the water how much bigger the rudder is and how it has a large dagger board.  This is a totally different ship then yours so it could be that it was needed for this one but may not be needed for yours.  Does any one have any thoughts on this?

 

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Daniel: I do have a clear plastic insert that increases the rudders size and I am thinking of making it removable so that I can replace it with a bigger one later if needed. The Byzantium is a schooner and therefore it can be steered almost entirely with the sails (or so I've been told) also the large scale means that the rudder extension doesn't need to be so large. The main thing I worry about is the size of my keel fin, the large surface area will reduce leeway and heeling but will also resist turning whereas the narrow keel on the Prins Willem combined with the large rudder allows it to turn on a dime which is nice for control but not very realistic.

 

 

 

 

Lextin.

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I think he's more concerned about the depth of the rudder, Qwert

 

Actually, too deep of a rudder will cause cavitation - it will stall and be ineffective.  You get more effect with waterline length near the surface.  Take note of how schooners and yachts based on Grand Banks boats often have 1/2 heart shaped rudders with their greatest length at the waterline and coming to a point at the keel.  You can see that on Friendship sloops, for example.

 

Also, rudder throw beyond 30°-35° can cause drag enough to stall the boat, especially with fast rudder movements.  Heck, I've done that in my 16 footer.

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I like the idea of a removable rudder.  I think the ultimate in rc ships is having a model you can both sail and display.  Also having removable rudder and keels will give you the ability to experiment with what works best for your model.  I'm still learning the actual mechanics of how a ships work.  I think RC ships really bring that side of modeling out.      

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I haven't got much work done on the Byzantium but I have made up a set of paper sail templates to test the positions of all the fairleads and to see how much servo pull each sail will need. My original calculations were based on the size of the sail and did not factor in the overlap so they were way off, the new servo pull requirements are out of reach what I mean by this is that both the fore sail and the outer jib will require a minimum of 18 inches servo pull and my current setup will only allow for 12 inches. I am wondering if anyone here can shed some light on how to fix this issue? the only options I can think of would be to drastically reduce the size of the sails or to triple the pull of the servo but that would put allot of strain on the servo which will control all three of the jibs as well as the fore sail.
105_1611.jpg
105_1614.jpg
The pencils in this picture are pointing at the fairlead locations
105_1615.jpg

 

Lextin.

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Sorry about the rather lengthy hiatus from this build, I had become burnt out from trying to figure out the rigging also I lacked funds to purchase the necessary materials so I decided to take a short break. One thing led to another and my "short break" turned into a long break. I am back now and excited to get back to work on the Byzantium.
     I have obtained some money and am thinking of getting the supplex for the sails aswell as the fabric glue and brass tube for the fairleads. I have been monitoring Rockywoods.com and they always seem to be out of white supplex so I was wondering if slate grey or wrought iron would work?

 

Lextin.

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Mark: I am not sure if supplex can be bleached although the care instructions do say not to use bleach suggesting that it might take the color out.

 

 

Lextin.

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Try a simple "dirty wash"  use a bottle of used thinner or mineral spirits and brush it on the material.  It will cut don on the white and really age or dull it out.

David B

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I got the brass tube I needed and made the rest of the fairleads. The only thing remaining before I can permanently install the deck is to add several small eye screws, which I an out of meaning another trip to the hardware store is in order.

 

David: I don't think that a dirty wash would work on supplex fabric as it doesn't readily except dies. I did however find a similar material that I am going to order some samples of.

 

 

 

Lextin.

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The weather was nice today so I started sealing the deck. I didn't get to far though because I ran out of fiberglass resin hardener after the first batch so I'll have to get some more before I can continue, as of now I have the servo tray mounts and half of the deck beams coated with resin.
   The fabric samples for the sailcloth didn't arrive today so maybe Monday.

 

Lextin.

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Yesterday I got some more hardener and applied resin to the rest of the deck beams as well as the bottom of the deck. Since the resin is applied so thin and it is really cold outside it may take awhile to fully cure.
   The Supplex and Taslan fabric samples arrived today. There is not much difference between the two fabrics so I will be getting the Taslan.

 

Lextin.

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I received the sailcloth a few days ago. It is two yards of white taslan nylon.
104_0216.jpg

I wanted to make a sail for my Byzantium but I am lacking the confidence that my sail templates are correct so I decided to make the flag instead.
104_0229.jpg

 

Lextin.

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Lextin, your flag looks really good! I particularly like (others may disagree), that the colours are but more subdued. To my mind, it makes the flag look as if it's been out in the weather for a long period of time and, hence, weathered and more realistic.

 

As for your sails, I've got no doubt that they'll look great as well, once the templates issue is sorted.

 

All the best for 2015.

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Hi Lextin

 

The sails and video are great! Not long to go now before she hits the water. Have you thought of a Go-Pro mounted on the deck to record her voyages?

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

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Patrick: The GoPro camera is a little out of my price range infact just about anything is out of my price range, though at the rate I'm going by the time I complete the Byzantium they will probably be able to be found in any thrift store listed as obsolete technology.

Bob: thanks.

 

 

 

Lextin.

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Hi Lextin

 

No probs about the Go Pro.  What's more important is that you're able to continue building your beautiful ship.  I'm really enjoying following your progress and look forward to each of your posts.

 

Keep 'em coming!

 

Cheers

 

patrick

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Since my last post I have made the bolt rope for the topsail and done some research on sail making I found out that my cloths which I originally thought to be to narrow at 24 inches wide were actually to wide, they are supposed to be 20 inches wide facepalm moment. Well I am not going to remake the sails so they will have to stay the way they are. I will be making the foresail next.
   I am thinking of making a removable extended sailplan and wondering what sails it would realistically include, Ringtail and stuns'ls are a given but what about a flying jib and a bentinck bent from the fore jackyard?

 

 

 

 

 

Lextin.

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