Yacht Mary by Mike Dowling - Mamoli

[Mike Dowling]

Hi all !

 

I am back with a new boat having had a break from them for a while. I picked this kit up on ebay for a fairly reasonable price. I had been looking for one for a while but only found Chinese copies so I was pleased when this came up.

 

It is the first Mamoli kit I have tried. First impressions - nicely packed but looks a bit minimal on wood. I am ok with that as I have some spares and I am always careful with usage. There are 7 sheets of plans which look ok but the instructions for the build, such as they are are on the plans. The plans are two sided but the instructions only on one side so a lot of turning required. Otherwise  castings and wood quality look good.

[Mike Dowling]

Frames on, decks on and frames faired.

 

Now, can someone please tell me how to put on the first strake. I always have a problem with this. The instructions say it should go on level with the deck (presumably the main deck ?) and follow the curve of it. This makes for a huge lateral bend apart from the lengthwise bend on that strake so please, someone guide me. I always have a problem with planking.

[bdgiantman2]

You are off to a great start on your model of Mary. I will be following this blog

 

Brian

[popeye the sailor]

with some kits,  it's almost impossible to follow that first strake rule.   I always start mine by following along the tops of the bulkheads,  and proceed downward.  for this one though,  I would plot the first strake at the top,  until you get to the higher bulkheads towards the stern.  at that point,  let the plank guide you where it wants to fall,  and go down from there.   the upper part can be done later.   the half Moon and the Mayflower are other examples, where this method works well.

   does this model have the ply panels for the upper part?   you could even start with those,  and they will mark the line for you   

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks Popeye, that makes sense to me. No ply panels for the bulwarks - in fact both they and the toprails are pretty complicated.

[popeye the sailor]

there is another log going on as well,  are you following it?   he has the first strake running along the main deck all the way back to the stern.  I was also looking at the kit......no parts panels to pop the parts from.   first for me...never saw that.  I would think the parts would be prone to warping...have you had any trouble?

[Mike Dowling]

The only problem I have so far is that the wood I have must be very old. It is incredibly brittle and doesn't like being tapered at all. I have had to order some new wood, otherwise this vessel is going nowhere! 

 

Which log is it ? I can only find an old one.

[popeye the sailor]

this one......might be the one your referring to.   yea.....I've dealt with older woods....have you tried soaking it?   I had that problem with my recent build......it was in my closet for a year...might have accounted for the dry wood.  sounds like the kit supplies Sapeli wood......a better wood ,  would be basswood...I use it a lot.  I know some don't like it,  because of the 'hair factor'  it gets from sanding.  but,  if you go from medium to fine sandpaper,  and then rub the hull down with a cotton cloth,  the hull comes out really smooth.

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks for that. Yes I have had a look and see what you meant about the almost straight top. I had decided following your suggestion to do something similar. I know I will have a lot of wood to remove later to get the shape right but I think it might work.

 

The supplied wood is supposed to be lime but it is a very strange colour. Very yellow ! I had soaked it for ages but it just wants to fall apart and split along the grain, it's not a problem I have had before. I have found lime to be quite obliging in the past. This is due to be double planked so I am just going to aim to get the hull covered for starters!

[Mike Dowling]

It's interesting actually. The main deck on that other log is MUCH flatter than mine and would be much more forgiving ! 

[zappto]

Interesting, very nice design old dutch yacht, will join your crew, keep good work!

[Mike Dowling]

Here's my attempt at a solution to my very curvy deck. Planking is not my best subject so I am deliberately starting very high(thanks Popeye) and working down. I am pre-soaking and bending the wood in a jig allowing it to dry over night before gluing it on. Let's see how I get on.

 

[popeye the sailor]

planking her that way will insure your maintaining a straight line,  but you'll need to remove the excess planking along the tops of the bulkheads,  ending off at #6.        the bulwarks should have a curvature that follows the main deck.  it's not a bad idea,  but you'll be doing a little extra work, defining the main deck bulwarks.  I use pretty much the same method in bending plank strips.   I have a pine board with systematically drilled holes to allow for changes in the bend.  I have plastic dowels I stick in them......the kind you get from pre fab furniture.  like your doing,  I set up as many as I can   

[Mike Dowling]

Your scheme sounds intriguing ! Can you post a couple of pics on here of your pine board technique ?

The frame tops against the bulwarks get cut off this model once the planking is done so I know I will have a lot to remove and carefully at that but I hope it will work.

[popeye the sailor]

sure.....I'll put something together for you.   I kinda figured that's what you were planning to do with the bulwarks.  I know planking can be a trial......I'm no expert either.  

[popeye the sailor]

darn.......looked in the closet and I haven't the foggiest where the board got off to.   I tried to quickly make another one,  but you'll see where I drilled two holes,  too close together,  and the drill walked.   it still will give you a good idea.   you'll see where I drew two lines......from the bisect of the two lines,  curved lines are drawn {I did two}.   you can shape the curve as tight as you want to.

the plastic pegs are 3/16.......I made others from wood dowel.  don't use metal or rough pegs because the wood will get marred or stained.  alternating holes allows the strip to be held in place.   other holes can be drill to make adjustments,  depending how much bend you need.   

[Mike Dowling]

Thank you for that. I thought you had some crafty method of getting the taper right and you progress down the hull. My method with the pins is OK for the top planks but I think I will just have to guess the lower and back ones. Lots of folk have tried to explain the 'fan' method and tick strips but I just can't get my head around them at all.

[popeye the sailor]

no....it doesn't help with tapering.   basically,  just lay the plank down and see how it wants to lay.....tape to fit. 

[Mike Dowling]

Hi Brian - great to have you along ! You know I am rubbish at planking. Stick your oar in as often as you like.

 

I can't for the life of me remember but did you know that someone has bought Mamoli and is producing a lot of their kits again. Someone on here will know who it is.

 

The false keel and bulkheads are incredibly pale - perhaps they have been unwell - but they are definitely not plastic.

[AVBiker]

On 21.1.2018 at 3:19 PM, Mike Dowling said:

 

 

Hi Mike, hier ein Artikel von mir in deutscher Sprache für mein Forum über Beplankung.

 

Daß das Straken der Spanten mit einer Strakleiste(wie mir scheint, für etliche eine unliebsame, aber nichts destotrotz überaus wichtige Arbeit) mit peinlicher Genauigkeit ausgeführt wird, ist ein absolutes MUSS. Auch ein Auffütern an den Spanten kann manchmal nötig werden um die Linien zu gewährleisten.
Was hier zuwenig genau geschliffen wird, muß später mit Spachtel und nachschleifen und mehrfachem Arbeitseinsatz ausgeglichen werden.
. Für die Unterbeplankung schneide ich mir selber mit einer großen Handkreissäge mit Führungsschiene aus 5mm Kieferbrettchen Leisten mit ~ 2.5mm Dicke zu. Da sind dann durchaus ein paar Zehntel mm Toleranz drin.

Die Biegung der Leisten am Bug erfolgt durch leichtes Anknicken in 5 bis 10mm Abständen, je nach gewünschter Rundung der Leisten. Dadurch kann ich die Leiste dann praktisch biegen wie ich es will und brauche. Mit der Biegezange wird inetwa der gleiche Knickeffekt erzeugt.
Zum Heck hin muß die Leiste dann teilweise in sich verdreht werden um satt und ganzflächig am Spant aufzuliegen. Das funktioniert mit den Fichteleisten ganz ausgezeichnet.
Geklebt wird mit Express-Holzleim und die Leisten werden mit Modellbau Stossnadeln zum trocknen fixiert. Geklebt wird nicht nur am Spant, sondern auch(wichtig!!) die ganze Länge der Leisten untereinander. Das ergibt am Schluß einen sehr kompakten, festen Rumpf. Durch die Dicke der Leisten hab ich beim Schleifen genügend "Fleisch" um eine nahezu perfekte Aussenhaut herzustellen.
Durch die Toleranz beim zusägen der Leisten kann es vorkommen, daß stellenweise minimale Ausfugungen mit Holzspachtel nötig werden. An der Form des Rupfes ist absolut nichts nachzuspachteln!!
Eine perfekte Unterbeplankung benötige ich darum, weil die 2te Beplankung nur mit Furnier(0.6 bis 0.9mm) erfolgt. Mit dieser Dicke könnte ich absolut keine Fehler mehr kaschieren.
Das Aufbringen des Furnier`s erfolgt mit Kontaktkleber. Für den Rumpf mit Flüssig- beim Furnier mit Gel. Gel ist sauberer zum arbeiten, man schmiert nicht alles voll und es zieht keine Fäden.
Zuerst mit wenig Druck die Leiste genau anlegen dann kann ein eventueller leichter Spalt noch zugeschoben werden. Erst bei perfektem Sitz die Leiste andrücken. Mit einem kleinen Metall-Lineal wird die Leiste dann endgültig angedrückt. Dabei fahre ich mit der Stirnseite des Lineal`s über die ganze Länge mit großem Druck. Die Qualität der Festigkeit des Kontaktklebers wird durch die Kraft des Andruck`s, auch wenn er nur kurz erfolgt, erreicht. Der hohe Druck kann wiederum nur ausgeübt werden, wenn die Erstbeplankung entsprechende Festigkeit aufweist.

 

Die erste Planke muss wie im Plan zu sehen, verlegt werden!!!

 

Soweit meine, für mich sehr bewährte Arbeitsweise, Gruß Hubert

[Mike Dowling]

Thank you very much for your long reply. I  will try to get it translated so that I can understand it.

[Mike Dowling]

This is the best google translate could manage so thank you Hubert. Very helpful. The only comment I would make is that I NEVER use contact adhesive. It is horrible and totally unforgiving. I always use white wood glue or occasionally a very small amount of CA.

 

 

Hi Mike, here an article from me in German for my forum on planking.

 

It is an absolute MUST that the straightening of the ribs with a strake-line (as it seems to me, for some a disagreeable, but by no means exceedingly important work) is carried out with painstaking precision. Also, a Auffütern on the ribs can sometimes be necessary to ensure the lines.
What is ground too closely here, must later be compensated with spatula and regrind and multiple labor input.
, For the Unterbeplankung I cut myself with a large circular saw with guide rail of 5mm pine board bars with ~ 2.5mm thickness. There are then quite a few tenths mm tolerance in it.

The bending of the strips at the bow is done by slight buckling in 5 to 10mm intervals, depending on the desired curve of the strips. This allows me to bend the bar practically as I want it and need it. With the bending pliers in about the same kinking effect is generated.
To the rear of the bar must then be partially twisted in order to sit well and over the entire surface of the frame. This works perfectly with the spruce strips.
It is glued with express wood glue and the strips are fixed with model needles to dry. Glued is not only on the bulkhead, but also (important !!) the whole length of the strips with each other. This results in a very compact, solid hull at the end. Due to the thickness of the strips, I have enough "meat" when grinding to produce a nearly perfect outer skin.
Due to the tolerance when sawing the strips, it may happen that in places minimal fillings with wooden spatula are necessary. The shape of the plucking is absolutely nothing nachzuspachteln!
A perfect Unterbeplankung I need it because the 2nd planking is done only with veneer (0.6 to 0.9mm). With this thickness, I could hide absolutely no more mistakes.
The veneer is applied with contact adhesive. For the hull with liquid veneer with gel. Gel is cleaner to work, you do not smear everything completely and it does not pull strings.
First apply the bar exactly with little pressure then a slight gap can still be pushed. Only with perfect fit press the bar. With a small metal ruler, the bar is then finally pressed. In doing so, I drive with the front of the ruler over the entire length with great pressure. The quality of the strength of the contact adhesive is achieved by the force of Andruck`s, even if it takes only a short time. The high pressure can in turn be exercised only if the Erstbeplankung has the appropriate strength.

 

The first plank has to be laid as planned!

 

As far as mine, for me very good working method, Greeting Hubert
 

[Mike Dowling]

Whoever said that Mamoli were mean with their wood were quite right ! Not only mean but some timber missing altogether. Thank goodness I have a lot of leftovers having been very careful in the past.

[Mike Dowling]

The first planking is taking forever and I think the bottom part is going to be a bit 'patchwork'! It may well be that I over tapered some of the bow strakes to early. Anyway, I will get it covered and adjust my technique for the second go.

 

Whilst waiting for soaking wood to dry I have been making the top rails. This involves laminating 4 pieces of 2mm x 1mm walnut together whilst bending them in  jig. Not an easy task! On the outside a further 2 pieces, one of walnut and one boxwood 1x1mm have to go on the outside. There is less than 1 inch of excess wood !!!

 

I have surmised that Mamoli kits are not for the fainthearted and definitely not for the beginner.

 

 

[Mike Dowling]

Please can someone tell me where I went wrong. I have had trouble before because I didn't taper strakes enough so I tried to make sire I did enough early enough. I am however left with a very unpleasant hole to fill in and some clinkering at the bow.

 

The remaining spaces with my current tapering seen to be about right but I am going to have a big hole from about bulkheads 1 - 4.

 

So, not only what did I do wrong but what should I do next ? I don't think I can strip anything off because, as I usually do I glued stuff on too well.

 

[popeye the sailor]

do your garboard strake and go up from the bottom.   the clinkering is due from not tapering enough, or starting the tapering too late,   with some hulls,  depending how blunt the bow is,  you may have to do what is called 'joggling'.........starting at the bow with a single strake,  and combining it with a second strake,  as you proceed to the mid ship

this should give you some insight as to what I'm getting at.   the mid ship has more surface area that at the bow or stern.  with some hulls,  the mid ship may require an extra strake or two to cover completely.   basically,  your merging these plank and integrating them into a single plank

[popeye the sailor]

tried to PM you but your not taking messages  

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks for that Popeye. I thought that's what might be best. I understand the 'stealer' and such but my idea was that if I got the first planking right it would make the second so much easier.

 

I think most of my difficulty, apart from being a rubbish planker, is that it is a very small boat for such a bendy bow !

 

Re the PM's. I don't understand - I have received nothing from you ??

[Mike Dowling]

Just another question - should I taper the garboard at the bow and continue the taper with subsequent strakes until they meet?

[popeye the sailor]

most folks cut a rabbit along the keel for the plank to rest in.......you won't get the cracks and gaps that way.   where the plank butts up against the keep,  I sand the edge of it at a bevel,  so it will do pretty much the same thing.   where it will meet the bow stem,  I usually bevel it to lay flat to the stem,  and shape the curvature.

    I should point out that if there is going to be a second planking,  you really don't have to be extremely fussy.  you just want to get the contour of the hull established.   the second planking will clean it up