Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – FINISHED - OcCre - 1/90 - cross-section - bashed

[ronald305]

 thanks Michael 

   this information  is for everyone but I just found out yesterday to know that the Santisima Trinidad model space version sold  by the UK sister site only is not offered to anyone from the US at all unless you write to the international model space and I heard from one model space member it will not be offered to the US I hope he is wrong but I did write to the UK sister site asking why is that I was going to sell mine and go with there's because the instructions are really good any comments on what I said please enlighten me  PS I hope I'm wrong to thank you 

                          Ronald 

Edited July 16, 2018 by ronald305

[md1400cs]

Ronald,

 

Yes. that is indeed the case. I called them several months ago. They were not aware of when, or if it (ST) would be sold stateside.

They also said that product availability does change. I also asked about their Vasa. Same reply - not available.

 

Oooohhhh and today I went to their USA site and the Vasa IS now available to the US market. Kinda wish I had not seen that - after spending 5 years on my

Corel version. That said I would, if you care to, just hold off and see what happens. That ship is a huge seller world-wide.

 

https://www.model-space.com/us/model-ships.html

 

PS: you could download their instruction booklets from the Euro site.

 

https://www.model-space.com/gb/build-the-santisima-trinidad.html

 

-------------------------------------------------------------

 

I did not know this - very nice add-on indeed

 

The SantisimaTrinidad kit, also contains a cross-section kit, which provides an amazing close-up view of the interior workings of the Santisima Trinidad

 

 

[ronald305]

yes you are right about holding off and today they the ones from the UK replied back to me and told me they will be contacting their head office about seeing if they could ship the kit to me in the states so anyway we will see, about the downloaded instructions do you think it will work with the OcCre kit 

                                Ronald 

[ronald305]

I forgot to ask you do you mean the European model space site 

                        Ronald 

Edited July 16, 2018 by ronald305

[md1400cs]

Ronald,

 

UK site

https://www.model-space.com/gb/model-ships.html

 

Don't know about cross-referencing instructions for this kit.

For my Vasa I used several diif. sources, especially for rigging. Creativity helps. The ST is a ship that seems to have many unknown areas 

of reference for the original. So just enjoy adding or avoiding kit instructional perspectives.

 

My current cross section is also a puzzle indeed. So I'm just exploring details - many of which may just be wrong.

[ronald305]

ooh ok that's what I thought  I  will thanks 

     

[md1400cs]

In fact you have also given me an idea. I just downloaded the instruction, and will look for the cross-section bits from them as well

 

Cheers,

[ronald305]

LOL I might download the instructions my self and compare it the kit instructions 

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Minor – catch up post – after taking some yard time off.

When I started doing all of these block and carriage bits (again) – having spent five years on the Vasa – I found little motivation – almost shelved this one to bring up the Viking ship from under the table. Then – No – back into this project  

 

Still not sure about the cannons – sure like the ones with decorative markings, though not Spanish. That said the kit included ones are certainly more accurate and a bit longer as well. So would look better once installed with carriages fully forward. I think that the blocks are a bit big, though the next size down where way too small. Next bit air brushing the barrels. As always thank for still dropping by ---

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

[marktiedens]

Hi Michael - excellent work as always. I like the brass barrels!

 

Mark

[BLACK VIKING]

Stunning work on the cannons Michael glad to see you back m8 

Martyn

[Baker]

Welcome back Michael.
The quality of the brass cannons looks better for me.

Great work!

 

[fmodajr]

Hi Michael,

 

Glad you didn't give up and pull that Viking ship out from under the table!

You're doing a great job on this!

 

Welcome back!

 

Frank

 

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for the welcome back and you visits. 

 So, carriages/guns put on hold - It occurred to me that I prob. should copper the hull before adding more bits and  decks. This will be my first effort. I’ve seen and followed some great builds that added plates. Of course this small, easy cross section will be a “walk in the park, compared to coppering full hulls.

 

That said, I read a very interesting letter in the Spring 2018 Vol. 63 issue of the Nautical Research Journal. Member, Ian Poole, was commenting about how copper plates added to models are sometimes rather inaccurate looking because of the “nails issue”. He stated that available copper plates have overly large simulated copper nail indentations. He went on to state that, of course, copper plates were attached using counter sunk copper nail heads; indeed barely visible.

In any case copper nails should not stand out above the plates. All for obvious reasons –

 

So It got me thinking about how to “improve” the look of the after-market plates that I intend to add to this build.

 

My solution.

 

1) Use the Model Shipways plates that I had pre-purchased.

 

2) Using piers flatten all the nail dimples on each plate

 

3) Flip the plate over and attach those to the hull with the backside facing up. This look more accurately simulates the look of counter-sunk copper nails.

 

Here are a few preliminary photos;

 

The new plate faces certainly looks more “realistic”.

 

PS: Yes – lots and lots of extra time will be needed having to re-work each of the 100s of needed plates. Could be overkill??

 

Regards,

 

 

[BLACK VIKING]

I wish I had followed this with mine as they do look better. I will try and smooth mine off on the under side so if it doesn't work it will not notice. Have fun sticking them on . 

Martyn

[fmodajr]

Hi Michael,

 

I think you have a great idea for your copper plating method!

 

If you have trouble, you might try a method I have use in the past.

 

Buy commercially available copper strip rolls to the width you need

 

 

Then I use this pizza roller gadget I have that will put indents the way you want them.

I roll the gadget along each side of the copper strip, using a steel ruler as a guide for the roller.

Then I cut the strip to the lengths I need, using the cutting block shown in the 1st photo.

 

Also, to ensure the plates stay on the hull, I spread slow drying glue on a section of hull and then add the strips.

 

Anyway, just another idea!

 

Frank

[popeye the sailor]

if you want to flatten the copper,  you could try using a rolling pin.......do 'em in mass quantities    just so happens,  I found one of those ponce wheels in the cellar of our apartment building..........took me a while to get it back into working shape.   glad to see your back at the table  

[md1400cs]

HI Mates,

 

Frank: thanks for the idea. I knew about this technique, but not quite comfortable enough trying to make the strips look realistic.

 Denis: tried your idea. The admiral has a wooden rolling pin, I don’t think that I could push hard enough to flatten the dimples. Also the wood absorbed some of the pressure points. I got poor results.

 

So Plan B; No longer using the pliers, one at a time instead using double sided tape and our knife sharpening stone just taping on the dimples with a hobby hammer. Much better, and faster "factory production" --

 

Also, since I will reverse side -- attach of the plates –dimples really need to be very flat to properly lay upon hull planks once glue is added. Hammer taps on that stone block does the trick.

 

Not sure what glue to use will try CA Gel on a practice piece.

 

Cheers,

 

 

[BLACK VIKING]

Looks much better. I used contact adhesive to glue the tiles on 

Martyn 

[md1400cs]

Martyn: Thanks - ordered the Gorilla brand. Now straightening out and or slightly curving the copper plates. Glue comes Monday so looking forward to this section of the build. 

 

Patrick: Agreed the brass, non decorated barrels will look more appropriate for this build. After the coppering, will get back to getting those painted, mounted, and secured to the lower deck. Then I need to figure out the proper locations for the gun door framing, and how they connect to outer hull planking. My Vasa was all wrong (at the outer hull) -- I'm determined to get it right this time 

 

As always mates thanks for your advice, help, and just dropping by

 

Cheers,

[md1400cs]

A couple of Very minor updates from today --

Added rope stays to the barrels

Added shot framing to the lower gun deck (not as it should be) but done,

 

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Started copper plates installation. Decided to start at keel, because if I messed up -during first attempt at this - I could easily hide errors, and learn as I went up to the water lines. Yes some early alignment, and spacing issues -- hiding haha -- but once I got the hang of it all fell into a nice pattern, so far so good. Here are a few early start pics.

 

Regards as always,

 

Edited September 17, 2018 by md1400cs

[fmodajr]

Michael,

 

Nice Job!

 

Tell me more about those curved pliers. What brand? Model? Any other uses?

 

Thanks for the help,

Frank

[popeye the sailor]

coppering looks really good   

[md1400cs]

Hi mates

 

Denis: Thanks for the comments. Before I even think about “patting myself on the back” I need to bow  to all builders who actually copper entire hulls. My simple little cross section doesn’t hold a candle to those other builder's work and the complexities involved in properly setting 1000s of plates to the curves also involved. I am happy, however with how this first attempt is coming out. 

 

 

Frank:  these pliers were part of a set I bought years ago when I was detailing model cars and engines.

 

 

I think that I got them at Micromark.  

https://www.micromark.com/Metal-Forming-Pliers-Set-of-4

 

Regards,

[popeye the sailor]

looks like a neat set of pliers.........something to look into     so true about the coppering......with a cross section,  your spared the pains of having to taper.   I've not coppered a hull either........it will be interesting when I have the chance to   

[md1400cs]

Finished up the coppering. Will use the kit provided gun port frames only as a guide to locate proper framings throughout. I also plan to build the hull gun port doors from scratch.

 

Note – kit instructions suggest using black and then red paint for certain timbers, including carriages. I have shied away from this with my two previous builds, and will do the same with this one, just a very personal preference nothing more. So I will leave those triple oak wales as they are.

 

Cheers,

 

[Baker]

As always, beautiful work Michael

[md1400cs]

Patrick: as always thanks...

 

Starting on the lower gun deck outer hull planks along with, this time, proper looking gun port framing as well as second row of wales.

My last build cannon wood framing was was so not ok -- last pic

(I was still learning [still am])

 

As always mates thanks for dropping by......

 

Cheers,

 

 

Edited September 26, 2018 by md1400cs

[riverboat]

NICE!  Michael.... looking good!!

 

Frank