HM Brig Supply by Jobbie - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64

[bruce d]

Jobbie,

Looking good. Mind if I watch over your shoulder?

[Jobbie]

I’ve realised I hadn’t built up the height of the quarterdeck planking far enough to meet the front facia or the rear transom’s frames (painted red). So I’m building up a measured half-width plank on either side. Beechwood centre with cyanoacrylate at the lower edge, then walnut inner and outer linings.

[Jobbie]

After raising the level of the poop’s bulwarks two planks, I was able to fit eight planks down before I felt the need to begin to taper them. After I’ve cut three further planks at the bow down to half their width, I found the next plank would need to be cut down more than it’s full width allows. The solution? Drop-planks.

[Jobbie]

Drop-planks are a method of careful trimming plank edges into arrow-heads no less than half their full width, so they can be interlocked with adjacent, similarly trimmed planks in order to decrease their total width at the bow. By this method, I’ve been able to trim five planks down together to terminate at one plank-width. 
 

It’s the first time I’ve tried it on a kit. It takes a while to do, but I’m pleased with the results so far.

[Jobbie]

I’ve not felt the need to add extra planks (stealers) at the stern yet. My shoddy workmanship below the waterline will be sanded, puttied and eventually painted white, hiding a myriad of sins. 
 

or should I try copper plating? I don’t believe the original ship would have been coppered. Thoughts?

Edited January 5, 2021 by Jobbie
Correction.

[Jobbie]

Second planking is now complete. I know the method I’ve used is completely incorrect, but I’m happy with how she’s coming along. And I’m enjoying myself. 
 

I’ll trim the rubber post and finish the rear counter next. 

[Jobbie]

Sanded. Filled. Cabin facia fitted. Stem fitted. Stern facia fitted. Rudder post fitted. Canon ports cut (Not shown.) She’s starting to have a little colour applied. 
 

I’ve spent some time thinking about whether or not to make some stern windows. I’ve decided not to- I quite like the way the kit looks without them.   

[Jobbie]

Uncharacteristicly, I’ve made a fair bit of progress this weekend. 
Main wale pre-painted, placement measured from the plans and glued with CA. I’ve also fitted most of the bulwark capping rails.

 

 

[Jobbie]

[robdurant]

That's a nice neat painting line you've got there between the black and the wood... I always have my heart in my mouth hoping I won't end up with my head in my hands doing those jobs! Supply's come on in leaps and bounds since I last checked in. Keep up the good work

 

Rob

[Jobbie]

I’ve literally been avoiding hanging the rudder on it’s hinges for months, because they were not cast too well. I’ve been working on plastic aircraft kits for a while instead…and really enjoying that. 
We’re in COVID-lockdown in Newcastle, Australia, so I’m waiting for stuff to arrive in the mail. (Adhesive silk/PE seat-belts for a 1:48 Bf109E & bare metal foil for a ‘58 Edsel.) So, broke out the ship again while they ground to a halt. 
 

The rudder was hung in less than an hour, and I loved doing it. The mojo’s high at the moment. We may see more progress tomorrow. 

Edited September 5, 2021 by Jobbie

[Jobbie]

Well, I knocked the rudder off already. Oh well, I’ll put it back later. 
 

I’ve been drilling hundreds of holes on the decks, and filling them again to simulate wooden plugs over nail-heads. Maybe next time, I’ll actually take five minutes to look up reference photos first…I drilled about double the amount I should have. 
 

I wanted to complete the deck properly before I attach the hatch covers and grating.

[Jobbie]

Hatches made following the plans, but I’ve reduced the width of the main hatch from 42mm to 37mm. This is in order to make more room for the train-tackle behind the canon along-side. 

 

I imagine the forward hatch on the main deck covers a ladder, so I left it’s dimensions as is. 
 

Copper eyelets on the hatch-planks are painted black to represent iron. I didn’t attach a brass ring to them, because in my mind, they’re removed by two blokes, one each side, holding iron rods with a T-handle at one end and a hook at the other. Second ring would get on the way and not be useful. That’s my excuse, anyway. 
 

Grating is glued to the quarter-deck, making sure the fully visible strips run fore and aft. 

[Jobbie]

The brass lettering ‘SUPPLY’ and four window frames are primed with a Tamiya rattle-can and airbrushed white Vallejo Air. They’ll require a little touch-up after cutting from the sprue. They’re attached with a two-part epoxy, Araldite. 
 

The prow’s painted Admiralty paints’ dull black, helping to cover up the unsightly Cabot’s ‘antique walnut’ putty. (Bad colour choice by me.)
 

It’s amazing how little additions make a lot of difference.

[Jobbie]

The windlass. Twelve octagons, on a brass shaft. I decided to not leave it walnut, because it wouldn’t have been made like that. It would probably be a log or fabricated from eight flat sides. But I didn’t want the drum painted red either. So I settled for grey: Black would be too black, I guess. 
 

 I painted it RLM65 black-grey. It was too light for my taste. For the second coat, I made the drum a 50:50 mix of RLM65 and black and the iron cogs black. It turned out ok. I’ll fit the anchor rope and pawls later. I’ll possibly fit a bell later, once COVID lockdown is lifted and I can hold stuff in my actual hands instead of looking at a computer screen. 

Edited September 23, 2021 by Jobbie

[Jobbie]

The aft bitts, quarter-deck pin-rails and cast aft cleats were simple additions. 
 

the CNC-cut of this kit is amazing. Every day now, I’m delighted with the quality of this Caldercraft kit. The cast parts have flash, but they clean up easier than plastic kits. I’m really enjoying this build. 

[Jobbie]

Bow rails and cheeks fitted. I extended the scroll-work to meet the bow with 3mm x 2mm walnut, sliced in half to 1.5mm x 2mm strips. Then I dry fitted the horizontal cheeks under the lower rail-strip to mark the bow contour, and filed to shape. The positioning matches the plan- The box-lid has the cheeks mounted on the main-wale. I couldn’t drop them that low if I wanted to.  

[Jobbie]

Poop-deck bollards fitted. A slight bit of fettling is all that was needed to fit them into the pre-cut recesses, edges chamfered and the bollards then PVA’d into place. I’ll paint them black to match the box-art. 

[Jobbie]

I’ve deviated from the plans and added anti-slip foot-rails under the tiller. It may not be accurate, but for the life of me, I can’t see how the helmsman could hold course in a slight rain with a slippery deck in hob-nail boots without them. 
 

All cut the same length, then placed one plank-width apart at the rear. The forward end simply aligns with the tiller angle when the rudder is swung left or right. I would have preferred a timber of half the height, but COVID lockdown and all…

It’ll do, pig. It’ll do. 
 

the tiller itself is two pre-cut pieces, laminated together with PVA. I’ve added beige cotton as a handle. Fixed in place with a 0.6mm nickel-silver rod through the top of the rudder. 

Edited September 29, 2021 by Jobbie

[Jobbie]

So, time for a rant. 
 
The Caldercraft website hasn’t been updated for literally years- Maybe fifteen, in fact. Their Australian agent, Miniature Steam Models (MSM) haven’t been agents of theirs for years either. I emailed JoTiKa (Caldercraft) enquiring where I could purchase additional fittings and more kits in Australia….They never bothered responding. 

 

I stumbled by happy accident upon a local (Australian) company I’d never even heard of before - Float-a-boat, in Ringwood, Victoria. Turns out, they’re the local Caldercraft agents and have been for years.

 

Caldercraft- I want to buy your products, but your website needs to be correct and current. And I’ve been waiting for the release of your HMS Surprise kit for fifteen-odd years, now…. Your business model and customer service are pathetic. Vanguard Models HMS Sphinx is looking like a better alternative to your HMS Surprise. You’re loosing a customer. I want you to be successful in business, but you’re not doing yourselves any favours. 
 

Rant over. Back to my bench.

[Jobbie]

I’ve ordered additional walnut 3mm single and double blocks in order to rig the cannon more correctly. While I wait for them to arrive, I’ve removed all the hatch-covers had decided to add the brass hatch-rings to their copper loops while I can still access them. Poor photo, but you get the idea.

[Jobbie]

Puddening the anchor-rings. The pre-formed stocks are wonderful to work with. A couple of hoops of black cartridge-paper around them and they’ll be done. Easy-peasy.

[Jobbie]

[Jobbie]

I had a response from my email to Caldercraft yesterday. Quote; “Thank you for your enquiry. I can assure you we are still in business and producing Caldercraft kits. At present shipping of static kits are 5-7 days from placement of order. We are still trying to recover from the past 18 months. Our kit stock was all sold in the first month of lockdown and we have been running to catch up ever since. Severe disruption in the supply chain has not helped.

                Regarding Surprise we had hoped to release the kit just before COVID but were unable to do so. It will not be released before next year.

Miniature Steam (the Australian supplier) decided to withdraw from the market last year. I will remind our web editor to remove them. 
Kind regards, John ______, Director.”

 

Saints preserve us! Delighted the dear Surprise is on the horizon, for all love! Time to save my doubloons. 
 

Float-a-boat in Ringwood, Victoria are the current Australian suppliers. Odd that Caldercraft didn’t mention that and I came across them by lucky accident. I’m a happy guy once again!

More blocks in the mail for the cats… 

[Jobbie]

Puddening the anchor-rings and black cartridge paper for the stock woldings. 
anchor-bend knots using left-over 1.5mm cord from the previous build - Royal Yacht Caroline. 
 

To my eye, the anchor cable supplied by Caldercraft is too thick and too bright. This’ll do fine. 

[Jobbie]

The pre-cut chain-plates were a simple addition. No fettling required at all. I used 0.4mm nickel-silver pins fixed with CA and PVA on the wood to secure them. They’re not going anywhere. 

[Jobbie]

I’ve again deviated from the plans, as the kit isn’t furnished with train-tackle or breaching-ropes for the cannons. I used 1mm brass rod as a former and twisted the nickel-silver rod around it to form a loop. Then cut, drilled into the bulwarks, fixed with CA and painted iron black. 

The cleats are placed alongside them as per the plans. I’m still waiting for the additional blocks to arrive in the post. 

[Jobbie]

The model’s had its first pieces of rope permanently attached- Cannon breech-tackle. The trucks piece together very well indeed. My only concern is how I’m going to get the axles to fit through the wheel-hubs. They’re very small and I think they’ll break before I sand them down adequately. 

[Jobbie]

I’ve completed the six cannon carriages with no problems. The walnut ply supplied with this kit is of a good quality so they filed down very easily without splintering. I was concerned the axles would break off before they fitted into the (wheel) truck-hubs but, yeah..easy job. 1mm brass rod joins the left and right sides of the carriages and seems a bit oversized. But I’ve left them. 
 

The extra blocks I ordered for the cannon rigging arrived, and I’ve fitted 3mm double-blocks as in-haul tackle, but I’ve realised I’m out of extra 0.5mm natural rope. It can wait until Monday when the local hobby store re-opens after eight weeks of COVID lockdown. 
 

I haven’t decided if I’m going to paint the quoins…Red, black or left as walnut? Any advice? (I settled on black.)

Edited November 3, 2021 by Jobbie

[Jobbie]

I’ve added the cat-heads by fitting a 0.5mm nickel-silver pin to the under-side and drilled a hole into the fore-deck. They’re even in angle and height, but the starboard bulwark is slightly higher than the port side. So one cat rests on the side-wall…one cat doesn’t. I’ll fit a wedge on the cap-rail under the cat-heads shortly to make them look more even. 
 

bow-chaser swivel-cannons fitted. Again, I was trying to decide whether the paint their pedestals red ochre, yellow ochre, black or to just leave them. 
I think I’ll leave them. I don’t want them to stand out too much. 

Edited October 16, 2021 by Jobbie