Reale De France by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60

[fmodajr]

Oops,

I'm having a bad week!

Just noticed the view on the port side, I put the wood figurine upside down!

Yikes!

I think I need a break from ship modeling this week!

Frank

 

P.S. I was able to get the wood carving off the port side without breaking it. I will reattach right side up tomorrow!

Edited November 22, 2020 by fmodajr

[Gimo]

Wow, the way you recovered the "canopy" is beyon any expectation.
Must have taken everything apart! 
The final result is amazing especially with these two decorative wood arts 

 

Cheers

Gimo

[Hubac's Historian]

Those carvings are spectacular - they fit the space perfectly!

[Clark]

On 11/22/2020 at 4:15 AM, fmodajr said:

Oops,

I'm having a bad week!

Just noticed the view on the port side, I put the wood figurine upside down!

Yikes!

I think I need a break from ship modeling this week!

Frank

 

P.S. I was able to get the wood carving off the port side without breaking it. I will reattach right side up tomorrow!

Figurine looks excellent. Glad you managed the reattachment. Are you really sure you are able not to look at the ship for one week?

Clark

 

[fmodajr]

Hello,

Glad that visitors like the carvings! Thanks for the input and for visiting.

 

Small update:

As can be seen on this photo below, I thankfully, and with relief, was able to pry the carving off and re-position it right side up! Crisis averted.

Both the Corel plans and the Fleur di Lis plan show 3 small hatches under the decorative side panels.

The Fleur di Lis plan shows the hatches to be more oval in shape (as I made them) than the rectangle shape of the Corel plan. Another difference is that the Fleur di Lis plan show 2 of the hatches roughly where I put them (see green arrows). The one I marked with the red arrow is located more forward(Past the stern yoke). I could not do this however, since I have 5 knees supporting the upper deck in this area, while the Fleur di Lis plan shows only 1 knee. So I kept the 3 hatches in the locations shown on the Corel plan.

 

Added some thin wire to simulate hinges.

 

 

Starboard side

 

I did a test run on the Mica material, suggested to me by Michael.

I glued on a few of the window cutouts from the plans to the Mica, using Elmers Rubber cement.

 

Interestingly, when I tried sanding down the Mica to the shape of the window openings, the Mica thickness started peeling (flaking) off in sheets, like an onion.

So, I will experiment later, using some microscope glass pieces I have instead.

 

Painted and sanded the rudder decorative sheet metal.

 

Pre-Painted the rudder

 

Attached the decorative pieces to both sides of the rudder

 

 

Now I will take a week or so off to spend time with family!

Thanks,

Frank

[Clark]

I was also wondering about the hatches and followed the Corel plan. I will probly copy your hinge idea. Have a  nice time with your family!

Clark

[Clark]

Hi Frank, just a short question. Hope you can help me. I am proceeding and started to place the oarlocks. But I was wondering about the Corel plan. It is shown that the oarlocks are on the stern side of the respective oar. I am quite convinced that they should be positioned on the bow side. Otherwise it would be impossible to transfer the force of the oarstroke onto the boat. I took a foto of the corel plan and simulated the correct (?) position of the oar in relation to the oarlock with a wood strip. I hope I could explain the problem. If yes, do you agree with me?

Clark

[fmodajr]

Hi Clark,

 

I am not home now, so I can't check my Fleur di Lis plans.

Check out this link, I I think you will see that the oarlocks are correct facing the stern.

 

 

 

 

The oarsmen are facing the stern.

 

I hope this helps.

Frank

 

[Gimo]

Hi Clark,

 

Corel plan is correct. This is how the oars were fitted

 

 

In this kind of rowing (scaloccio) the oar is a second order lever 
whose fulcrum is at one end in the water and the oralock only does the point of resistence.
The force applied by the oar against the water causes the oarlock/boat to move.

 

Gimo

 

[fmodajr]

Thank you Gimo!

Hopefully this will help Clark on his build.

After I am done with the rudder, I have to start working in this area also.

 

Frank

 

[Hubac's Historian]

Awesome video - thanks for posting!

[Clark]

17 hours ago, Gimo said:

Hi Clark,

 

Corel plan is correct. This is how the oars were fitted

 

 

In this kind of rowing (scaloccio) the oar is a second order lever 
whose fulcrum is at one end in the water and the oralock only does the point of resistence.
The force applied by the oar against the water causes the oarlock/boat to move.

 

Gimo

 

Thanks a lot Gimo, it really helps me. Thus, most of the force is transferred via the oarloops. If will probably simulate an additional leather protection between pin and loop. However, this will surely be some times later. At present I was wondering where to place the oar supports.

Again thanks a lot

Clark

[fmodajr]

Back working on the model after some time off!

 

Continued working on the rudder assembly.

The Corel kit supplies the modeler with 2 sets of upper and lower hinges for the hull and rudder.

Thank goodness they did. The hinges are very brittle and if bent or shaped too aggressively, they break off.

I had to learn the hard way!

 

Hinges attached to the hull of the model.

 

Hinges attached to the Rudder

 

Ornamental Cast Tiller painted and ready to install.

Both the Corel plans and The Fleur De Lis plan show a short tiller going into the Royal area of the ship.

I don't quite understand this. There must have been a tiller crew member manning the tiller in the royal sitting area.

Also, as stated in Clark's log, the tiller seems very short. I'm thinking a lot of the steering must have been done by the oarsmen.

 

The upper hinges are supposed to attach to each other with only a 1mm brass rod. The only thing keeping the rod from sliding thru would be glue. I wasn't happy with this, so I made up a brass pin with a top head on it for safety.

 

The next photo shows many things:

Before attaching the rudder, I added the many cast metal decorations. As told to me by a post on Clark's Reale log, the decorations were actually painted on the real ship.

I filed off as much of the flashing as I could, then painted them the antique gold I have been using and attached to the model.

Also add a lower trim strip piece just above the upper hinge.

The lower pintle is interesting in that it extends from the lower hinge to above the water line. The Fleur De Lis plan seems to show the upper end tied to the hull. Since it was real tight in there, I attached a very small eyelet to the hull, and slid the curved rod into it. Not sure what the purpose of this long pintle is, but since it ends above the waterline, could this have allowed a crew member to disengage it from the lower hinge, if needed, without having to go underwater?

Finally, an eyelet was added to each side of the rudder for the rudder chain. The Fleur De Lis plan shows 1 chain attached between the hull and rudder with a horseshoe type clamp. Since it was very tight in there, I modified it and added a chain to each side.

 

 

Decorations added to the bow area.

 

Port Side Decorations near stern

 

Rudder chain added to both sides of Rudder

 

The next step in the build, for me, is to start work on the topsides, drilling and installing 59 oar wear pads and 59 oar thore-pins.

The thore-pins do not follow the curve of the deck, but are perpendicular to the water line. This will require me to bring the model to my friends shop and borrow his large Bridgeport drill / milling machine to drill the 59 holes perpendicular to the waterline.

So in preparation for this I had some temporary supports made to sturdy up the ship and level the model.

 

 

Thanks again for stopping by and visiting.

Appreciated.

Happy New Year!

Frank

 

 

 

[Clark]

Hi Frank,

glad you are back. It is a good idea to add rudder pendents. However I thought they were not in use such early. Below a photo from

http://militaryhistory.x10.mx/shippictures/art_galleys_and_galleasses_03.htm showing the rudder area.

How many of the ornaments are left? There a still some needed for decoration at the stern.

Clark

 

[fmodajr]

2 hours ago, Clark said:

Hi Frank,

glad you are back. It is a good idea to add rudder pendents. However I thought they were not in use such early. Below a photo from

http://militaryhistory.x10.mx/shippictures/art_galleys_and_galleasses_03.htm showing the rudder area.

 

How many of the ornaments are left? There a still some needed for decoration at the stern.

Clark

 

Hi Clark,

Thanks for stopping by. Happy New Year.

The only reason I added the Rudder chain is because I saw it on The excellent Fleur De Lis plans by G Delacroix.

I am assuming his plans are more accurate than the Corel plans!!!

As far as the figurines, I do have enough to add to the remaining areas. Some of them, as you know, are in bad shape and not fully cast. But I believe I have enough good ones for the remaining areas!

Thanks,

Frank

 

[md1400cs]

Frank,

 

This current build of yours is really something ! 

[fmodajr]

1 hour ago, md1400cs said:

Frank,

 

This current build of yours is really something ! 

Hello Michael!

Happy New Year!

And thanks for stopping by for a look (and kind words) at my progress. 

Appreciated!

 

Best,

Frank

[fmodajr]

Hello,

Small update:

 

My next step is to make the oar pads and drill for the 1 mm pin that makes, what the Corel plan calls, the thore-pin. There are 59 of these.

The plan calls for the thore-pin to sit right behind the oar pad, but I modified this a little. I made the oar pad a little longer and will incorporate the pin into the pad. The reason I did this is so a starter hole could be drilled onto the pad. Then when the pad is attached to the beam, the final drilling into the beam can be guided by the starter hole in the pad. (Yikes, I hope this makes some sense!) The reason for all this is that the pins need to sit perpendicular to the waterline and NOT perpendicular to the curve of the beam. (At least this is what the Corel plan calls for).

 

Probably over-kill, but I took the time to have a small fixture made (helped by my friend with his equipment).

This fixture will hold the oar pad for the drilling of the 1 mm hole

 

Oar pad located on fixture.

 

Thore-pin hole (1 mm) drilled thru on center of oar pad

 

All oar pads drilled and ready to attach to the beam.

 

In order to get the positioning correct on the side beams, a couple of simple fixtures were made.

The first metal fixture sets the correct distance of the oar pad from the edge of the outer beam.

The second wood made fixture sets the position of the oar pad along the length of the beam relative to the rower benches.

I made it so the point where they intersect is the correct position as shown in the photo.

 

Oar pads installed on the starboard beam. 

 

After I finish installing the pads on the port side beam, I will bring the model to my friends house, where I will set it on his large Bridgeport mill / drill machine.

Using the existing holes on the pads as a guide, the 1 mm hole will be drilled perpendicular to the waterline into the beam and the thore-pins installed.

Then the pads will be painted the ship's red color.

 

Probably over-thinking things, but having fun!

 

Thanks to all who have stopped by for a look!

Frank

 

[Clark]

Excellent idea to construct a spacer. I used a triangle placed on the midline which led to a lot of repeated measurements.

Clark

[OGUN KUNT]

Frank,

Excellent Job.

I need your help. I bought this model's plans. But i could not find Instruction Manual and Part List. If you have Instruction Manual and Part List can you share me? I do not want Model Plans. I need only Instruction Manual and Part List.

Thanks

Ogun

[fmodajr]

On 1/27/2021 at 2:36 PM, OGUN KUNT said:

Frank,

Excellent Job.

I need your help. I bought this model's plans. But i could not find Instruction Manual and Part List. If you have Instruction Manual and Part List can you share me? I do not want Model Plans. I need only Instruction Manual and Part List.

Thanks

Ogun

Hello Ogun,

I hope all is well.

Yes, I have the instructions and parts list. 

Give me a day or so to clean it up. (I penciled thru all the parts that I have installed in the parts list and crossed out all the directions I have completed). I will erase my pencil markings and get the instructions to you.

The instructions come in English, French, and what I believe is German. You want the English instructions correct?

 

Thanks,

Frank

 

[Clark]

2 hours ago, fmodajr said:

Hello Ogun,

I hope all is well.

Yes, I have the instructions and parts list. 

Give me a day or so to clean it up. (I penciled thru all the parts that I have installed in the parts list and crossed out all the directions I have completed). I will erase my pencil markings and get the instructions to you.

The instructions come in English, French, and what I believe is German. You want the English instructions correct?

 

Thanks,

Frank

 

Hi Frank,

I have sent the manual to Ogun already.

Clark

[fmodajr]

7 hours ago, Clark said:

Hi Frank,

I have sent the manual to Ogun already.

Clark

Great!

Thanks for assisting Clark.

Appreciated!!

 

Frank

 

[fmodajr]

Hello,

 

I was finally able to make it to my friend's house to borrow his large Bridgeport milling /drilling machine.

With his guidance, I finished drilling the holes for the Thore-pins perpendicular to the waterline or table. The drill depth went about halfway into the main beam.

 

Thore-Pins installed.

30 on the starboard side and 29 on the port side.

 

 

Thore-Pins at 90 degrees from the waterline

 

Next step was to start work on the railing stanchions.

Since the stanchions are square (4-sided) I purchased a 4 jaw chuck for the Proton lathe.

It worked nicely for drilling pin holes to support the stanchions on the deck.

 

Upper and Lower Stanchions

 

Attached with pins

 

Each Stanchion will have a flag pole attached to the aft side. I added 2 small eyelets to support the flag staffs (which I will add later)

 

Railing Stanchions fastened to the deck.

Similar to the Thore-pins, the stanchions are perpendicular to the waterline, not the curve of the beam of deck.

One of the hazards of working off of two different plans (Corel and Fleur di Lis) is positioning of details might have to be altered. Because I used the Fleur di Lis plan and raised the deck pieces, where the chain for the shrouds come thru the deck, I had to slightly shift where the Corel plan says the stanchions should be. 

 

Lower railing trial fitted (will be installed later).

Final touchup on on red paint will be done after I finish the swivel gun mounts.

Also just realized that the eyelets will have to be removed on 3 of the stanchions on the starboard side. There are no flag poles where the long boat davits will be located.

 

Next steps will be making the swivel gun mounts and working boat davits.

 

Thanks for stopping b for a look!

Frank

 

[fmodajr]

I meant to say Proxxon Lathe in the post above.

Damn auto-correct!

Frank

[fmodajr]

Hello,

Small update.

Slow, but steady progress!

 

There are 11 swivel guns to be installed. Six on the starboard side and five on the port side.

The mounts (posts) for the swivel guns are made.

 

One of the swivel gun posts installed.

 

5 of the posts shown here. On the port side, where the cooking station will be, a swivel gun is omitted, thus 5 on the port side.

 

In between all the railing posts and gun posts, there are 1mm x 2mm filler trim pieces installed.

 

 

 

Work has begun on the davits for the launch boat.

I will be modifying the davits to look a little bit more like those shown on the wonderful "La Fleur de Lis" plan by Gerard Delacroix.

Photos to follow soon.

 

Thanks for checking in!

Frank

 

 

[Clark]

8 hours ago, fmodajr said:

Hello,

Small update.

Slow, but steady progress!

 

There are 11 swivel guns to be installed. Six on the starboard side and five on the port side.

The mounts (posts) for the swivel guns are made.

 

One of the swivel gun posts installed.

 

5 of the posts shown here. On the port side, where the cooking station will be, a swivel gun is omitted, thus 5 on the port side.

 

In between all the railing posts and gun posts, there are 1mm x 2mm filler trim pieces installed.

 

 

 

Work has begun on the davits for the launch boat.

I will be modifying the davits to look a little bit more like those shown on the wonderful "La Fleur de Lis" plan by Gerard Delacroix.

Photos to follow soon.

 

Thanks for checking in!

Frank

 

 

Frank,

glad you are prooceeding. I am not sure if you are running into the same problem as I did. Are you aware that there should be enough space between the swivel guns and the lower railing?

Clark

[fmodajr]

2 hours ago, Clark said:

Frank,

glad you are prooceeding. I am not sure if you are running into the same problem as I did. Are you aware that there should be enough space between the swivel guns and the lower railing?

Clark

Hi Clark,

thanks for your post.

Yes, I checked each gun post to make sure the guns fit between the 2 railings.

The posts are actually a lot smaller height wise than they seem on the Corel plan.

 

Thanks for the warning!

Frank

 

[72Nova]

42 minutes ago, fmodajr said:

Hi Clark,

thanks for your post.

Yes, I checked each gun post to make sure the guns fit between the 2 railings.

The posts are actually a lot smaller height wise than they seem on the Corel plan.

 

Thanks for the warning!

Frank

 

 

11 hours ago, fmodajr said:

Hello,

Small update.

Slow, but steady progress!

 

There are 11 swivel guns to be installed. Six on the starboard side and five on the port side.

The mounts (posts) for the swivel guns are made.

 

One of the swivel gun posts installed.

 

5 of the posts shown here. On the port side, where the cooking station will be, a swivel gun is omitted, thus 5 on the port side.

 

In between all the railing posts and gun posts, there are 1mm x 2mm filler trim pieces installed.

 

 

 

Work has begun on the davits for the launch boat.

I will be modifying the davits to look a little bit more like those shown on the wonderful "La Fleur de Lis" plan by Gerard Delacroix.

Photos to follow soon.

 

Thanks for checking in!

Frank

 

 

Absolutely beautiful work Frank, you've given me a few ideas to apply to mine.

 

Michael D.

[fmodajr]

10 hours ago, safemaster said:

 

Absolutely beautiful work Frank, you've given me a few ideas to apply to mine.

 

Michael D.

Thank you for your thoughts and for stopping by!

Frank