Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum

[Martin W]

Hi Jon -- I followed the basic design of one hole on each side, and found that that was about right -- there weren't any lines missing a place to go.  As for the flattened bit along the top -- that makes some sense in that it would make the bees more stable.  Still, you have to decide how much of the English Swan design should be transferred to the American Rattlesnake.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

Martin, the reason you only needed two bee holes for the lines was that the other two were spares.

 

I still haven't decided whether to angle the bees or not. Lee states they should be; and Antscherl left them flat as shown by Hahn and the two kit plans. That's what so great about model building: consistent inconsistencies! 

[JSGerson]

Studying the bowsprit bees in David Anscherl’s book a little closer, he stated:

 

“In earlier days the bees were fitted at an angle to form a shallow ‘V’ as seen from dead ahead. However by the time period of the Swan class, the bees were set horizontally.”

 

So since all the plans show horizontal bees which is confirmed by the fact the Swan class boats were built between 1767 - 1780 (per the title of Davis’s book) and the Rattlesnake was built 1781, I can assume the bees on her were horizontal as well; who am I to argue, James Lee notwithstanding.

 

A new bowsprit was constructed as well as its jib boom filing and sanding by hand wooden dowels. My small wood lathe is still too big for this delicate work. The cap, saddle, bees, and the bee blocks were also made and then all the parts were assembled and glued.

[JSGerson]

The bowsprit was then dry fitted into position on the bow to determine where and how the gammoning cleats were to be positioned. This was done by wrapping a single line from the fore end of the gammoning slot straight up and around the bowsprit and through the gammoning slot again. A pencil line was draw tracing the rigging line on the bowsprit. Based on Hahn’s plans, I determined there were 7 cleats that needed to be made. Using a piece of 1/32” x 3/32” boxwood, a corner was first filed off the stock piece and then an “S” curve was fashioned into that angle cut with a fine round needle file. The piece was then cut off and repeated for the next one.

[JSGerson]

The cleats were glued into place.

[JSGerson]

Following my plan to attach everything I can to the mast and yards before I install them onto the model, I decided to try my hand at the parts of the bobstay that are attached to the bowsprit. The first thing I needed was a 6” closed heart. Unfortunately none came with the kit and I couldn’t find any on the internet in scale (1:64). I had to make it. Choosing a piece of 1/32” x 3/32” boxwood stock, I sketched out 10 hearts because I really don’t know how many I’ll need in the course of the build. A hole was drilled and then filed into a triangular hole with triangular needle files.

[JSGerson]

Once the holes were completed, the individual hearts were cut off from the stock and held with needle nose pliers in order to file the sides to the proper shape. Then, with one of the edges of the triangular needle file, a groove for the rope line was cut around the sides of the heart just like you find on blocks. I only lost one heart when it crumpled in my hands. I filed one of the edges too close to the internal hole. One down, nine hearts left.

[JSGerson]

Next I had to make the stropping that goes around the heart and the bowsprit, which required that I seize the full length of line. The actual line is 1 5/8” f scale or 0.6 mm. The kit provided beige (no black) 0.25 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.8 mm, and 1.2 mm line sizes. I decided to use the 0.8 mm line with black 0.1 mm sewing thread for the seizing. The black thread would completely cover the beige color. Standing rigging was waterproofed with a tar covering and thus black.

 

Using my never before used seizing machine, I proceeded to seize about 3” of line so I would have plenty to work with. First the beige 0.8 mm line was pierced through with the black thread to mechanically secure the thread. The seizing proceeded by cranking the handle of the machine and feeding the black thread through my fingers to keep the line taught. It worked flawlessly.

[JSGerson]

In case anyone was wondering, my seizing machine came from shipahoymodels.com. The clamp I using to hold it in place is a desk lamp clamp and where the lamp would pivot, I stuck a piece of dowel to hold the spool of thread. It worked quite well.

 

Once the line was seized, it was removed and one end was folded over to create a loop and it was seized again. It was then repeated for the other side. As you can see, two components were made, one smaller than the other. I wasn't sure of the exact length needed.

[JSGerson]

The component was then folded over in the middle and a heart was glued and then seized at the fold. The idea was that this would wrap around the bowsprit with the heart hanging down as shown in the bowsprit diagram. The two loops would be lashed together at the top as shown to the diagram below. As it turned out both components were too long – the loops over lapped. So I made a third one and guess what? It’s still too long! The good news is I’m getter better at making these things and have noticed that I had too much seizing at the loops and heart. Four hearts down, 6 left. Well back at again.

 

Note: the two diagrams came from: Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson

[scott larkins]

Your skills so rock man.  Very nice.  I don't think I'll ever get that skill.

[Martin W]

Hi Jon -- I like that trick of setting the spool of thread on the dowel.  Getting those lengths right, just so that there's enough room for the lashing proved to be a royal pain for me.  Like you, I tended to keep making the served lengths too long, and even when I made them shorter they seemed to be too long.  At this scale, there just isn't much margin, and as the line gets thicker from being served, you tend to use up whatever margin you might have had.

 

Good luck,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

Well third time, no wait forth time, no that’s not right, it’s four and a half times is the charm. I made the seized component a third time but this time I reduced the diameter of the rope from 0.8mm to 0.4mm. Remember I initially stated I needed 0.6mm. With the added seizing and the very tight quarters it was to me placed in, I figured I could get away with it, plus the seizing itself added to the diameter of the line. I also tried to shorten the seizing required for the loops and heart.

 

Once more I went to place it on the bowsprit and amazingly it was still too long. This time I undid the seizing on one loop and shorten where the loop started. The loop was re-seized and low and behold it fit!

[Martin W]

Bravo!  I applaud your success, and your determination.

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

At this point a choice had to be made. Both the Mamoli and ModelShip plans were in agreement with each other but not with Harold Hahn’s plan. Mr. Hahn showed crow’s feet rigging and since I had decided early on to follow the Hahn plans when possible, the crow’s feet were in which affect some of the rigging scheme. Some other details like whether to use deadeyes or hearts on the bowsprit also came into play. From my readings and looking at the various models, it was apparent that there really wasn’t a rigid standard rigging scheme. A lot of the details were at the discretion of the captain and those could change during the course of one cruise. Since I’m the captain of this particular ship I can’t be wrong…mostly…well maybe.

 

I made two more hearts similar to the bobstay to wrap around the bowsprit for the two bowsprit shrouds

 

The forestay has an open heart. Following the guidance of David Antscherl’s The Fully Framed Model, Rigging a Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767 – 1780, Volume IV [FFM], the open heart or the forestay collar as Antscherl calls it. “This is a 13” open heart with a 5” four-strand cabled collar that is doubled,” requires two grooves along the side which will be apparent below. This does not follow Hahn’s plans or at least I think it doesn’t because the only view is from the side and shows one groove. But as I stated before, I’m the captain. The idea of the heart is to allow the jib boom to slide between the forestay lines. Based on that, the 3/16” long heart was made from a piece of ¼” x 1/8” boxwood. The grooves were initially cut with the Byrnes saw and the filed to a semi-circular cross-section.

[JSGerson]

A second collar had to be constructed similar to the first for the fore preventer stay. This is the line the crow’s feet attach to and therefore not shown on the Mamoli or Model Shipways plans. Unfortunately this collar is different than what is shown in Antscherl’s book – it is much longer and appears narrower in Hahn’s plans. I took my best shot and winged it.

 

Again the collar had to be the same width as before but almost twice as long. In this case I followed Hahn’s plan and made it with one side groove. It was constructed about ½” long from ¼” x 5/64” 

[JSGerson]

You can see from Hahn’s plan how the collars fit into place.

[JSGerson]

Per FFM, the forestay collar strapping was made from 0.63mm served line 128mm leaving unserved line at the ends. The ends were cut diagonally (as best I could) and glued together. I found I had to be generous with CA glue as the ends would come apart just by looking at them. The joint was then seized manually without the use of the seizing machine which can’t work on loops.

[JSGerson]

The loop was then squeezed together and formed around the collar with the lines in the collar grooves. The line was then lashed to collar at the inner indentations made for that purpose.

[JSGerson]

The fore preventer wasn’t measured as it was fitted to the collar. A sufficient length of 0.63mm served line was created. A loop was made at one end and then wrapped around the collar to determine where the second end loop would be constructed and therefore determine the required line length. Once the second end loop was made, the line was again wrapped around the collar and lashed at four points. The double lashing was based on Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson.

[Martin W]

Nicely crafted work, Jon.  Those collars and hearts sure beat my versions cut out with the Dremel.  Very nice indeed. 

 

I'm also glad to hear you're going to rig the crowsfeet -- they really do make a nice appearance.  I have an account of having made the euphroes on my Ratt log.  Now that I have a mill (which I've successfully used twice), however, I might make them differently.  Really, though, the actual rigging of the crowsfeet is not that diffiuclt.

 

Keep at it.

 

Martin

[KenW]

I like your work and the hearts look great.  What model of Byrnes saw do you use?

I will also be interested to see how the crow's feet turn out. 

Cheers.

[JSGerson]

Ken, as far as I know, there is only one model of the Byrnes Table Saw. There are however two different voltages, I have the 120V for use in the USA as opposed to the 230V. Over the years I have purchased all of the bells and whistles for the saw (different blades, both micrometer stops, fence extensions, and even the tilt table, etc.). I haven't used the tilt table yet for a real project. 

 

I have also purchased the draw plate which is invaluable for making tree nails and the dimension sander. I would have purchased the disc sander but I already had one. The Byrnes rope walk is another matter. Until I play with my Model Expo ropewalk to make quality rope and determine it is worth the effort as opposed to buying it from Syren Ship Model Co. which makes top notch rope, that fantastic machine of his is on hold. I would have to have a need from a tremenous amount of miniature rope to justify the cost.

 

As you may surmise, I am a tremendous fan of Jim Brynes and his company.

 

As far as the other subject, the crow's feet, I look forward to rigging that. I am told that it really is not that difficult to make. That's still down the road a bit. I have yet to install any mast, and that rigging is on the third level.

 

Jon

[GuntherMT]

Hi Jon. Great looking build, but I have a question regarding the kit selection itself.

 

The Mamoli kit is significantly more expensive than the MS kit, but I have not found a comparison between them. As they are the same scale I am curious as to what the reason is for the much higher cost of the Mamoli kit and wondered if you could shed some light on this.

 

Thanks, and again, great build and log.

[JSGerson]

They are the same scale, 1:64. The reason I chose the Mamoli kit was that I planned to (am still am) following Robert Hunt's Practicum (some what now) which he based on the Mamoli kit. He claimed you could also use the MS kit with some minor modifications. I started this project in late 2009, so its been 5 years and as you can see, I still have as ways to go. Back then, I knew nothing and I mean NOTHING about building this type of model which was the reason I was following the Practicum. At that time, I didn't even know Model Expo existed! So I went to ebay and found the kit, bid, and won the auction for about $250 (if I remember right). I didn't even comparison shop.

 

I don't know how the two compare quality wise since I have never seen the Model Shipways version. Due to comments on my log and others, I found that a lot of builders purchased just the Model Shipways plans which give you a second way of looking at things. Some details are explained different or better than the other. So I ended up with three set of plans, the two kits plus Harold Hahn's plans which the Practicum uses to supplement the Mamoli kit plans. 

 

A lot of the hardware the Mamoli kit provided, I didn't use: I got a replacement wood supply, I scratch built many of the items (cannon carriages, the bittle, lower deck partitions, stern carvings, etc. I don't know what the MS kit provided or didn't.

 

The biggest thing I didn't like about the Mamoli kit was that all of the instructions were printed on the 11 sheets of plans in fine hard to read print. Since I didn't follow those instructions for the most part, it made no difference. If I had to, I would have transcribed them on a word processor and printed them out. Both kits provide certain how-to details and ignore others. The MS kit provides four sheets of plans and booklet of instructions (which you can download). I couldn't of done it without the Practicum. 

 

Confused yet?

 

Jon

[KenW]

Thanks for your quick reply.  I was wondering if you use a scroll saw, or if you manage with just the Byrnes table saw.

My interest is due to my looking forward to my next build, which I think will be the Rattlesnake.

Cheers.

[JSGerson]

Ken - Funny you should ask about the scroll saw. I have a Dremel Deluxe Moto-Shop 15" scroll saw, with attachments for a flex shaft, and disk sander. I purchased it in the late 70s. It still works as good as the day I got it but that is not saying too much. The problem is that it vibrates like crazy. The disk sander doesn't hold the sanding disks very flat (uses a wide center machine screw), and the flex shaft is not all that smooth in its operation. It's a neat design and should have been perfect for a hobbyist, but it is not a true precision machine. It is what I have so I make do. One of these days I would like to replace it and oh yeah get a mini lathe/milling machine as well when I'm feeling flush...very flush.

[KenW]

Thanks.  I do know that Dremel makes a scroll saw, but am not sure if there are any other options.

Cheers.

[JSGerson]

There are a number of well made, sturdy 16" scroll saws out there. That's what I'd get, will get in time. It's an invaluable must have tool.

[Martin W]

Jon -- In looking back over the photos of the collars, I just have to reiterate my admiration.  I know how tiny these pieces are, and when blown up in the pictures any little flaw looks enormous.  You've done some fine work there.  Bravo.

 

My kit was also a Mamoli kit, and I also got it well below their price -- with the added wood called for in the practicum, I still paid less than half (I recall it being somewhere around $250). So it's possible to get a kit for much less than you'd pay directly from Mamoli.  But you'll still have to shell out for upgrading all the crummy fittings -- and that seems to be true for virtually any kit.  Rigging, gun barrels, lots of the wood is simply rubbish.

 

Anyone thinking of building the Rattlesnake, however, will do well to take it on, using either kit.  It's a beautiful ship, and an enjoyable build. It is also just challenging enough to be a great skill builder without overwhelming a modeller (like me) coming to it with just a little experience.  Jon's log, Bob Hunt's practicum, and MSW are all great guides.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

 

Martin