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Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum


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Martin - Thanks for the warning on loose straps, I'll keep that in mind.

 

Ah yes, the souvenir. There was/is no chance of radioactivity because when I obtained the bar of stainless steel, the power plant was under construction - no nuclear fuel was on site. For those of you who didn't click on the provided Shoreham link, the plant was finally completed and even got up to 5% power for testing but was never commissioned. This was around the time of the 3 Mile Island incident so a lot of people (politicians, anti-nukes, pro-nukes, etc.) took a second and third look at the emergency plans if the plant went operational. They didn't like the evacuation plan. Trying to evacuate the population from Long Island NY is messy at best on a good day, never mind during an emergency. So the fully functional, brand new nuclear power plant never went on line.

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
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These deadeyes are now complete. I had to increase the teeth depth on my “knife” which I now understand is technically called a broach and was held by a hand pin vise. I also had to introduce the use of an abrasive cord. The cord was immeasurable useful in its ability to help increase the width of the slots.

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
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The deadeyes were blackened the same way as before and put in place. I have been advised that they should be glued in place but I’ll decide if that is necessary when the rigging is attached.

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
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Scott - I'm blind as a bat. I wear trifocals all the time (wearing glasses since I was 7) and when I work on the model I add a clip-on eye loupe. I've heard all kinds of stories about doing those ratlines and none of them favorable. I still have some work to perform on the bowsprit but after that I will have to take the plunge and work those ratlines. Wish me luck!

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
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Fore Stay

Back to the remaining stays. The Fore Stay was under construction, i.e., making the mouse, eye splices, and heart when I realized I screwed up on the Mizzen stay, Main stay, and the Main Preventer stays…bigtime. In trying to assemble as much as I could off the model, my lack of experience reared its ugly head only I didn’t recognize it at the time.  I had looped the stays to engage the mouse first and then attached them to the mast. The only way that was possible was to thread them through the opening destined for the upper masts. It was just a mind block that this was the opening for the upper mast. There was no way for the upper masts could now fit.

 

Examples of the Mizzen mouse and Main stay:

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
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Fortunately this meant I only had to cut open a few eye splices and lashings, remove the stay from the mast and re-install them properly once the damage was repaired. I didn’t have to reconstruct the complete stays from scratch.

 

The Fore Stay was completed without and problems (as far as I know) and installed. The Fore Preventer stay will be installed once the bowsprit jib boom is installed.

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
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Jon -- I had to laugh at your account of the forestay, since I went through that very same "mind block."  Maybe that's a kind of initiation rite, or just a joke played on us by the Rigging gods.  :o

 

Still, you worked it out nicely.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Edited by Martin W

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

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Scott - Thanks for the praise.

 

Martin - Oh I'm sure there many more little traps like that still to come. I just hope I ketch them early enough so that the "fix" won't be catastrophic. 

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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Bowsprit jib boom (previously made earlier) and the Fore Preventer Stay installed

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ratlines – Futtock Staves

 

Following David Antscherl, the next activity is the ratlines. In order to do them the Futtock Staves need to be installed first. According to Antscherl the stave was served rope. According to James Lees’ The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 an iron bar was used on some ships. David opted to use served bamboo (made with a draw plate the same as tree nails) in lieu of served rope for stiffness because you cannot see the difference. I went a step further, since you cannot see what material was served, why take the trouble to make bamboo staves? I used music wire which is very stiff and it satisfies Lees and follows Antscherl. The model calls for 0.8mm rope so I used 0.02” (0.51mm) music wire which when served should approximate 0.8mm.

 

My serving machine was able to accommodate the wire and served it easily. The alligator clip in the image is applying tension to the line while some CA glue dries.

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
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Once the proper length was served, it was cut off from the rest of the wire and the two ends were dipped into some brown paint to represent the leather caps (not that you could actually see them) and lashed to the shrouds. There are still some fuzzys that still have to be snipped off.

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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  • 3 weeks later...

That's a nice idea, Jon.  I think I might have use wire as well, and then had trouble keeping it straight as I the futtocks in place.  Of course, I didn't use music wires. 

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

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Ratlines

All the staves were installed under the tops and above the deadeyes. The ones above the deadeyes gave me pause. Due to lack of my skill and/or experience the deadeyes did not line up was well as I had hoped. I was consoled somewhat because I had read somewhere that they did not always lined up due to the need to be adjusted due to wind conditions, moisture, etc. which affect their tautness. Therefore I attempted to minimize the obviousness of their irregularity by installing the lower staves a little higher above the deadeyes. After taking two weeks off from model building to visit Mom in Florida (she turns 97 next week) I returned home and realized that after looking at the model afresh, I could have lowered them a bit more but they were glued into place. Be that as it may, I plodded on. Per Mr. Antscherl’s instructions I started to install the ratlines using my thinnest cotton thread. Using an index card with the proper spacing of the ratlines laid out, I installed a line every third row without any glue so as to maintain the shrouds vertical straightness. A simple knot was used on the outside shrouds and Clove Hitch knots were used on the interior shrouds. Because they were not glued at this point, final line adjustments could be made.

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
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I repeated the process only this time I filled in all of the ratlines, still without glue.

post-1370-0-64634100-1433013346_thumb.jpg

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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Once I was satisfied all was right with the world, a drop of CA glue was applied to each knot and the excess lines cut off, not with a scissors, but with a sharp X-acto knife to get as close to the knot as possible. It may not be the best ratline ever done, but hopefully it’s not too bad for my first.

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Jon -- I just got caught up on your log -- those ratlines look pretty good there.  That can be pretty tedious going, so you'll be happy when it's done!

 

One trick I learned for getting the deadeyes more or less even is to make a gauge with some stiff wire (I used a paper clip) that you can put into the top sheave hole of the bottom deadeye and the bottom hole of the top deadeye.  Then, starting with a very long piece of line for the shroud so that you can double it, pass the shroud around the top deadey; you can then pull the shroud taut around the deadeye and clamp it with an alligator clamp (I used 2 spaced about an inch or two apart to ensure against any slipping).  Then you can seize the shroud around the deadeye, and make any adjustments after you pass the lanyard through.  I found that it's pretty important to get some diluted white glue on the seizings and lanyards right away, because they all want to slip (since I dyed the line I used for all standing rigging, it tended to have a kind of oily texture that I had to battle against).  And it's also important to do the corresponding shroud for the opposite side to keep the tautness without bending the mast.  The "good" thing about rigging is that with 3 masts you have plenty of practice on each step. ;)

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

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Martin - I did actual use paper clip gauges although you wouldn't know it from my results. I did everything you described...almost. The problem was that I liked seizing the deadeyes on my sizing machine. I could make them nice and tight. I would seize the first deadeye on the machine. Then holding it in place with the gauge on the model, loop the shroud over the mast to the other deadeye also attached to a gauge. A clip was placed on the looped 2nd deadeye to hold the shroud in position. Here is were it got squirrely. I removed the shroud from the model and seized the second end on the machine. I imagine due to the variances in tension, how it looped over the mast the second time in comparison to the first time, placing it on the seizing machine, etc. when finally installing the shroud, things didn't line up as intended. The deadeyes were all seized and glued at this point so I ended up with what I had. I did the best I could with the lashings.

 

My original concern was I could not seize the shrouds insitu on the model and make it clean and tight. Well I got got clean and tight, but uneven deadeyes. I'll try your method on the next mast step.

 

Jon

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
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Finally, the initial parts of the lower level ratlines are complete.

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
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Looking good, Jon.  Now you'll get to start tying everything off on the ship itself, and see just how tight things get. ;)

 

Joking aside, you'll probably want to get used to using some fine, long tweezers -- it's just about the only way to get into the spots under  the tops, etc.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

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Futtock Shrouds

The futtock shrouds is connected to the futtock plates above via a hook and lashed to the shrouds below. Normally the metal hook connects to a metal thimble seized on the end of the futtock shroud. Due to the difficulty of constructing a thimble at this scale and the ability to even see it even if it were there, I have elected not to create these thimbles. The diagram below is from Rigging Period Ship Models, by Lennarth Petersson.

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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Chuck Passaro’s Syren Ship Model Company makes very nice laser-cut plastic hooks of various sizes. Unfortunately the physical hook of his smallest version will not pass through the hole I created when I made my futtock plates. That meant I had to make my own.

 

First I tried some aluminum wire I had for the color – too thick. Then I tried some very fine brass wire and got a beautiful hook. Too bad the wire was so pliable, a simple tug and the hook would straighten out and fall off. I didn’t dare attempt to heat temper it for fear of burning it up – too weak.

post-1370-0-75893600-1434730153_thumb.jpg

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Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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Then I tried using the smallest eyebolts I had - 1/16”. This appeared to work – the goldilocks zone. Here is a comparison:

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Edited by JSGerson

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Frigate Constitution
 
Past Builds:    Bob Hunt's kitbash of the Mamoli Rattlesnake

                         Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat for the Rattlesnake

                         Mini-Mamoli solid hull British Schooner Evergreen
                         Model Airways Albatros D.Va - 1917, The Red Baron's Forgotten Fighter

 
​Member: Nautical Research Guild

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