Revenue Cutter by wtimlen - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:48

[BrianK]

Can't wait to see the copper plating!

[allanyed]

Hi Bill,

Thank you for sharing your build, it is a joy to follow.  Couple things about copper sheathing, I really hope you don't mind me butting in.

 

 If you feel you must show the fasteners, keep in mind they would be nailed with something like 1/4" nails that had heads about 1/2" diameter spaced about 2 inches apart.  This means there would be dents, not raised bumps  that are only 0.04" diameter at your scale.  Yours look to be about 2 inches in diameter and up against each other.   Also, the plates overlap on both vertical and horizontal edges 1.5 inches rather than sit next to each other so the nails on the edges went through both plates at the overlaps.    The plates on larger ships were 48X15 but for the cutters, I could not find anything so they may be a little different overall size.   Below is a sketch of plating superimposed on your picture.   Also note that the plating was about 0.13" thick at most which at your scale would be essentially foil that is 3/1000" thick so can be bent by hand with a simple straight edge.

For a really nice history paper on cutters go to https://media.defense.gov/2017/Jul/02/2001772348/-1/-1/0/USRCS1789-1849.PDF   Everything from letters from Alexander Hamilton, to crew lists,  to pay for each rate.  Captains on one list were making $50 a month!!

Allan

[wtimlen]

On 1/24/2022 at 2:51 PM, BrianK said:

Can't wait to see the copper plating!

Thank you Brian for taking the time to comment, I will post on the weekend. Supposed to get a storm this weekend which is good for an excuse to work.

 

Bill T.

[wtimlen]

On 1/25/2022 at 7:19 AM, allanyed said:

Hi Bill,

Thank you for sharing your build, it is a joy to follow.  Couple things about copper sheathing, I really hope you don't mind me butting in.

 

 If you feel you must show the fasteners, keep in mind they would be nailed with something like 1/4" nails that had heads about 1/2" diameter spaced about 2 inches apart.  This means there would be dents, not raised bumps  that are only 0.04" diameter at your scale.  Yours look to be about 2 inches in diameter and up against each other.   Also, the plates overlap on both vertical and horizontal edges 1.5 inches rather than sit next to each other so the nails on the edges went through both plates at the overlaps.    The plates on larger ships were 48X15 but for the cutters, I could not find anything so they may be a little different overall size.   Below is a sketch of plating superimposed on your picture.   Also note that the plating was about 0.13" thick at most which at your scale would be essentially foil that is 3/1000" thick so can be bent by hand with a simple straight edge.

For a really nice history paper on cutters go to https://media.defense.gov/2017/Jul/02/2001772348/-1/-1/0/USRCS1789-1849.PDF   Everything from letters from Alexander Hamilton, to crew lists,  to pay for each rate.  Captains on one list were making $50 a month!!

Allan

Hello Allan,

That was a super kind response, I started to read the link and I am hooked. It heightens my interest in the R. Cutter which at times is needed as we all know. The detail on the plating was awesome! I am a little nervous on plating so I will forego the overlapping for a future build though. Most importantly thank you for taking the time and interest in posting on my build. It certainly motivates me!

 

All the best,

Bill T.

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

Perfect: Blizzard = Revenue Cutter Post. So on my last post I was gearing up to start copper plating the Blue Jacket Revenue Cutter with apprehension and uncertainty. Did a ot homework and now I have a good vision on how to proceed thanks to posts from MrBlueJacket, SJanicki and EricWilliamMarshall build logs.

• Originally I was going to plate the false keel with plate directing vertical (untraditional on the right) because I do not have the steadiest of hands and vertical plates are easier for my to fit and work to bend. I actually took a page out of Eric's build for a jig from my photo-etch kit which I showed on the previous post which works perfect for the vertical plates.
• Then I decided to make another jig from my same photo-etch kit for tradition vertical plates for use along the false keel, bingo worked perfect. I will copper plate now with vertical plates on the false keel because I will now I have a consistent bend with vertical plates on the keel without any warping on the bend, crisp corners.
• Then I saw SJanicki use vertical plates in his RC log for his sternpost which originally I made a jig for which I will incorporate into my build (Now a hybrid jig, I guess I am going "green" in my old age).
• And as MrBlueJacket recommends, I will use silicone gel as a adhesive for a majority of the remaining plating.

So now I have a clear vision on the first step(s) of coppering after doing some dry fitting. I am confident it will not be perfect however I have learned a ton without even affixing a plate yet. Feel good about this now, finally.

 

Vertical plating v Horizontal plating: I will now be doing horizontal on the false keel on the left (Traditional) v Vertical on the right. 

 

 

Vertical plating on the kell (dry fitted).

 

 

And my hybrid jig below, Vertical Bends on the left, Horizontal on the right.  

 

  

 

Catch everyone soon!

Bill T.

[EricWilliamMarshall]

She is looking good! Great photos as well! I hope the storm merely gives you time in the studio!

[TBlack]

Bill,

The storm has hit here, too, which has given me time to work on my build. My build also requires copper plating which I have never done before, so I'll watch your progress for instruction/inspiration.

Tom

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

One last post prior to plating, decided to fabricate a channel strip to ensure a uniform look along the keel. Planned steps to form plates on the stem, false keel and sternpost.

• Form the plate in the jig in my previous post to ensure consistent overhang on each plate.
• Place the plate in the fabricated channel guide and further form the plate by pressing it with scrap wood the same thickness of the false keel, stem and stern post in the channel guide.
• The glue the plates on with wax paper between the channel guide and the plates to prevent glue adhesion between the guide and the plate. Dry fitted it a few times with decent results.

The channel guide was cut with an x-acto saw and the channel carved out with a file and razor, 1 hour of work.

 

 

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

A quick post for today, I finally got over my mental block and dove in on copper plating (feels good!). Copper plating the Blue Jacket RC will definitely be a challenge and I am hoping to learn a lot from the experience. My patient is now taped onto the gurney (shoe box) for the long process ahead. I have come to the realization that this will be a slow and rewarding process. Also my photo-etching skills have benefitted already from this experience as well.

• Just learning how to handle the plates can be an art form! (Especially with me not being the steadiest of hands (Thanks Dad!)).
• Using magnifying glasses I find to be important is key for me on this part (5X glasses). 
• Started at the stern post, not as clean as I wished. However, I will in all likelihood go back and clean this up as develop better plating techniques.
• Using the photo etch Jig and channel guide has been a blessing to achieve sharp corners along the false keel. Fairly happy with the progress on the false keel (so far).
• Tomorrow my plan is to work on the stem. 
• Using thick CA now and that seems to do the trick. Using Q-tips to wipe off excess CA when needed. I am normally light on the glue to start with anyway.

Some beginner pictures below (Ha-ha):

 

 

 

       

 

 

Be well all,

Bill T. 

 

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

Another short post to prevent being distant. Copper Plating is quite a challenge to me, even frustrating at times. However along with frustration comes a lot of education and rewards.

• The false keel, stem and sternpost are complete. A little choppy for my liking although. I am getting more comfortable on handling the "moody" plates.
• Plating of the stem was the hardest part of building any model I have experienced, I liked doing it though. When I do the other side I will do some things differently.
• I find Xuron photo etch cutters and the Proxxon Pensander to be my go to tools for shaping (worth every penny). Also found the dimples on the plates help as a guide to make sure the plates are the same size and square after being cut off the sprue.
• Magnifying goggles critical for me (5X Magnification).
• The gaps on the sternpost will be covered by the hull plating as I venture to that area. I can't wait to clean this portion up.
• Will start planking the bottom row this week (I hope), middle outward for my first time. Following Sjanicki's method on this side.
• Also, I have always shied away from planked a model kits (always been a solid hull person), plating has definitely given me a better understanding of hull lines and confidence in tackling planking now. My next build will definitely be a planking kit now! (Blue Jacket "Herreshoff" I think will be a descent progression)

Some Pics below:

 

 

 

Be well folks,

Bill T.

 

 

Edited February 14, 2022 by wtimlen

[EricWilliamMarshall]

5 hours ago, wtimlen said:

Copper Plating is quite a challenge to me, even frustrating at times

I feel your pain! But she is looking good! 

[MrBlueJacket]

looking good!

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

Presidents Day presented me with some time work on what is going to be a long journey plating the BJ RC. I am enjoying the journey, so far it has been challenging and interesting. However I notice with practice some portions are getting more manageable. Thank god the plates are excellent quality.

• All plates are affixed individual, I am glad I sprayed the hull with polyurethane prior to coppering. No adhesion issues, Slow and Fast CA depending on the piece of copper being affixed. Going through a lot of plates, however I have a nice stock of pieces and parts for those weird parts of the hull in the future. No plate is wasted, flattened out and ready for re-application when needed.
• I finished the stern portion of the boat, I decided not to curve the plates around the stern and make them square hoping for a sharper corner. I like it, although a little choppy for my liking. All pieces needed to be filed, cut or adjusted on the stern (4 hours of work for the newbie).
• Then a began building up from the back, bottom to top as I have read in some posts.
• Finally for this post, I started working the waterline, I love working the waterline on all boats for some reason.
• Obviously some touch work will be needed, I like doing touch up work. Lucky, because there will to be a lot!
• Why do pictures show every little mistake OMG!

Some pictures below, I won't keep posting because the process is repetitive. However if I find that anything that could help someone I will post!

 

Be well folks!

Bill T.

 

 

 

 

 

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

Still working and learning on copper plating. These pictures represent some progression to date from my last post. Posting this for two reasons (1) not to be distant and (2) I have a question (I rarely post questions however with the time placed on plating I need to) any help would be appreciated!

Question:

• Using slow CA which is working well. It is used sparingly and excess is wiped off immediately with a Q-Tip (lot's of Q-Tips!!!).
• Question: There are plates where the excess glue is wiped away, however leaves a dull white residue. Is there a solution that can be used to remove the residue that won't affect the adhesion of the copper plates to the hull?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated! (And thank you!)

 

Some progression pics below:

 

  

 

 

 

 

Again, thank you!

 

Bill T.

[MrBlueJacket]

The obvious solution is debonder, but you would have to use it without letting it wick onto the edge of the plates. Another solution is abrasive (sandpaper) but that will leave a matte finish on the plates.

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

I have been distant however busy on the BJ Revenue Cutter coppering the hull. After many moons of plating I have finished 1/2 of the hull. When started I have to admit I wasn't too sure how it would turn out or be able to complete it. Pretty happy with the results, although not perfect. Proceeded with a hybrid model of MrBlueJacket (Mary Taylor) and SJanicki methods. A few notes:

• Every plate was altered in some shape or form.
• Used slow CA because of my unsteady hands, gave me time to make adjustments.
• Used thin CA when I ran into stubborn plate end not adhering to the hull.
• Every plate ruined was refabricated and used on another portion of the hull (I guess one can call it a "Green" hull).
• I ran 2 strakes of plates along the keel and bottom because I had a feeling I would have issues at the bow if I ran just one straight through, glad I did. See photos.
• Started from the bottom and proceeded forward and upward.
• Covered the jagged edges by affixing water line plates. See photos please.
• I learned a ton by doing this, and glad I took on the challenge. A little choppy for me, however I will easily exchange it for the experience.
• Lastly, this was the hardest task I have ever encountered making a boat. Feels good though, I hope the second half turns out better. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Take care Folks, (On to the rudder to break things up a little)

Bill T.

Edited April 1, 2022 by wtimlen
Too Many Pictures

[MrBlueJacket]

Looks great, Bill!

 

Nic

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

I have been distant however busy on the BJ Revenue Cutter coppering the hull. After many moons of plating I have finished the entire hull. Pretty cool to be a part of the copper plating club, never thought I could do it. It is rough in some parts however learned a ton about modeling in general. Plating is repetitive so I will list some things that I learned from the process in hopes of helping someone in the future:

• Started 01.31.2022, completed 06.12.2022.
• Use a photo-etch jig to bend the parts if possible, (Keel).
• I used 10X goggles to ensure plates fit well and ensure plates were square where needed.
• I rolled every plate with end of my Exacto knife to ensure all 4 corners of all plates were down on the hull (A slight "U" curve).
• Less glue is more and saves a ton of clean-up time.
• Polyurethaned over the copper paint to ensure good adhesion to the hull. Plus the hull was sealed so humidity would not affect the and pop the plates off the hull.
• Used Slow CA to give me time to situate every plate, unsteady hands and a beginner I guess.
• After all complete, used Tarn-X to clean the plates so they now will age simultaneously.
• Blue Jacket Copper Plates great to work with.
• Beginners like myself, follow other builds with copper plating (thank you Sjanicki, Mr. Bluejacket and EricMichaelsWilliams (Spelling?) build threads).
• Last but not least, it was worth it and I am excited and happy to go from the "necessary evil of the hull" to embark on the boat fixtures and my favorite the rigging.

Pictures are listed below:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 12, 2022 by wtimlen
Misspellings

[MrBlueJacket]

Beautiful work. Nice and symmetric.

 

Nic

[sjanicki]

Wow! You really did wonderful work on this!

[wtimlen]

8 hours ago, sjanicki said:

Wow! You really did wonderful work on this!

Thank you Stan.

 

9 hours ago, MrBlueJacket said:

Beautiful work. Nice and symmetric.

 

Nic

Thank you Nick, rudder next.

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

A short post today for a change, I am working on coppering the rudder of the BJ Revenue Cutter. I am a little over halfway completed with the rudder, a lot more challenging that I anticipated which I will note below (lot of small delicate pieces (10 hours so far I logged, however I take into consideration my beginner status). My next post will be with the rudder complete with the pintles and gudgeons affixed to the rudder. Some notes:

• I coppered the fore and aft of the rudders with the same method used on the false keel.
• Then I used the line from the aft part of the rudder to align the plates from bottom to top, except for the top plate which I did with a full plate because I knew I was going to be filing it for shaping purposes.
• Used full plates on the rudder at the locations where pintles would be placed on the rudder because of the filing needed at those locations. Did not want to mess with filing half plates, not skilled enough to tackle that!
• Attempted to replicate the exact shape of the rudder with the copper plates, a little rough however satisfied for a newbie.

I also broke the rudder early, however unlike Life it broke at a place that made the rudder easier to handle. I guess there is always a first.

Happy 4th to all!

Bill T.

[sjanicki]

I continue to be impressed by your work! Awesome job! 

[wtimlen]

15 hours ago, sjanicki said:

I continue to be impressed by your work! Awesome job! 

Thank you Stan, still following your lead.

 

Bill T.

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

Finally completed copper plating the Blue Jacket Revenue Cutter, sort of proud of it as I was intimidated by the task for a first time beginner. I learned more about modeling by plating the RC than any one single task on a model. I little rough in places however overall happy with the results. Here are some take aways from the task in addition to my previous posts:

• Bottom to top, back to front progression.
• When it comes to adhesives 2 things to mind, I used slow CA and less glue is more.
• To apply glue I used a dowel with a pin on the end to apply the glue.
• Every plate was fabricated one way or another (filed and or sanded), that why it took me 7 months I guess (01.31.2022 - 08.06.2022)
• Using 10X magnifying very important to ensure tight fitting plates.
• Needed to make a Jig for the pintles and gudgeons because I needed make them wider due to the thickness of the copper plates (picture below). This was an unexpectedly hard part of the process. I also ended up using a pair needle nose pliers and squeezed at the locations of the pintles and gudgeons to thin locations of the hull they were located on the hull and rudder, this worked great at my wits end!

I plan on affixing the rudder last as I am sure I will break it during remaining build, hoping things go quicker now. Onto the toe rails!

 

 

Thanks, stay cool as it is hot in NY,

Bill T. 

 

 

[MrBlueJacket]

Very nice, Bill.

[Mike Collier]

Wow, the model is looking great! The copper plating looks very time consuming. I was thinking about building this model next after I finished the Muscongus Bay lobster smack by Model Expo. I think I’ll build the Yankee Hero and then the Revenue Cutter.

[wtimlen]

2 hours ago, Mike Collier said:

Wow, the model is looking great! The copper plating looks very time consuming. I was thinking about building this model next after I finished the Muscongus Bay lobster smack by Model Expo. I think I’ll build the Yankee Hero and then the Revenue Cutter.

Hello Mike,

Thank you for the kind words! That is the same order I went, the Yankee Hero by BJ is a great kit. Loved making it, I have a build thread for my Yankee Hero on MSW if you wish to check it out. Going from the Yankee Hero to the Revenue Cutter from a progression perspective is working out well.

 

All the best,

Bill T.

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

First post in quite some time, however been busy on the build. I will probably split this into 2 seperate posts. One being completion of the Hull and the second on the deck detail.

• I really liked the Toe Rails on the Blue Jacket Yankee Hero so I decided to paint them Flat White like the Yankee Hero (Model Master) as opposed the staining them. I was pleased with the outcome. I generally follow the suggested paint scheme, however never exactly as I have mentioned in prior posts.
• The Toe Rails were somewhat challenging due to the paint mixing with the CA. I repainted the portion where the Toe Rails meet the hull to rid the boat of the reflection of the CA. This took some time and extra steps, however well worth it.

• Again deviating from the normal I decided to cover the rear cabin with decking on the top with the thought this would be a working area for the deck hands to a certain extent. I broke out some scrap wood from my "wood shed" to accomplish this. I painted only one side of each plank with Vallejo "Mud Brown" to match the laser detail color on the deck. After gluing them together, sanded them and stained with Miniwax "Golden Pecan", same as I used for the deck.
• Finally I used Flat Black paint (Model Master) to trim the rear cabin moldings versus the brown as suggested in the manual. I will have better pictures in my next post of the cabin.

I will post again shortly, in an hour. Have a zoom meeting!

 

Thanks,

Bill T.

 

 

 

[wtimlen]

Hello Folks,

Zoom Meeting over! So getting back to my post relating to my deck fittings on the BJ RCutter:

• Outside of detailing the deck house differently I also completed some other fixtures differently and dry fitted them to the deck.
• In addition to the deck house molding being in black trim I followed the same with the sky light.
• Both hatches I painted the molding Brown however I made the grates recede into the molding to add depth to the pieces.
• In addition I also painted the grates flat black to ad detail.
• Finally some dry fitting.

Next up making the Blocks and Stanchions black with using pewter solutions purchased from Blue Jacket.

Thanks for following,

Bill T.