Cutty Sark by NenadM

[Sailor1234567890]

I've been wondering how you'd make those freeing ports. Look forward to seeing them.

[NenadM]

More shapeing and correcting. Never good enough

Edited December 23, 2013 by Nenad M

[NenadM]

Happy hollidays and best wishes for all the folowers. Rest a little, be with your dears, spend some good time, and back to life

 

In Belgrade, everywhere you can feel New Year and Christmas slowdown in business, dappled with sport success (women handbal  second in world) and political turbulences (will be elections or not)

 

In shipyard, finished with moldings, and then - slow-motion

 

Starting with freeing posts, step by step. There are 12 of them. Why are tricky parts always multiplied ? 

 

It took me near and hour just to recalculate them and rescale from Campbell to my model, and another two hours to draw on model, start drilling and to finish first four squared holes

 

Holly, and almighty paper tape. I did not use jig I made ( it swings to much and not precise I hoped ). For measuring, as divider from moldings I use 2mm strip.

 

Then little holes, in second cross not so little holes, and then carefully sawing with fine locksmith file. Finish with sanding jig granulated 250

 

When I finish all 12 of them, then start real party. I have some ideas ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

In some details of pictures, you can see wrong thickness of bulwark wall I was writing about. That has a good and a bad point

 

Good - so much stronger than 1 mm it should be, and it will be much easier to mount stanchions 

 

Bad - it is not in scale. Also, it force me to try to mask it making cap panels of freeing posts in non standard way

 

There is also one more relatively large mistake, but with no possibility to correct in any way. Earlier lost lines of deck catch me again, this time inside of bulwarks: some of freeing posts are not on equal to the distance and parallel to main deck. Adequate correction of main deck is impossible, because it will reflect to rise of aft deck ( and there is no price to do it again. Third time I think).

 

Maybe it could be masked visually by nail and dead-eye holder and by stanchions, and by some extra rope, and by white masks, we will see. As usualy, I also have some idea for that. Pictures of this bump will follow later

Edited March 26, 2014 by Nenad M

[keelhauled]

No, our ships are never good enough for us!  But that is the fun of the journey. We find out that we did it better than we thought could. But were not satisfied, we have to make it better.

 

The feeing ports look great. 

Marc

Edited December 22, 2013 by keelhauled

[Sailor1234567890]

Like I said, still looking forward to seeing how the freeing ports are done. I see how you've started them. Looking great. Keep us up to date on her. Can' t get enough.

[NenadM]

Daniel

 

Idea is to simulate tin strips around square holes of freeing posts with narrow and thinned veneer (red arrows on picture)

 

Earlier test had good results and that encourage me in that direction

 

Also in photos you can notice that there is white tin strip molding a whole way by waterways between bulwark and deck. Over-detailing is only way to visualy mask bump I write above.

 

Wish me luck wit this

 

Edited March 26, 2014 by Nenad M

[NenadM]

And wish me luck with the dentist

 

Tooth problem again ... nerve of tooth must be ripped out ... this tooth was "healed" a week ago !!!!! Five days I live on Rapidol drug ( pain killer) ... Martian invasion in all professions here !!!! 

 

PS

 

Every time I am sitting/laying in dentist chair I wistfully watch their collection of tools ... and toys ... 

Edited December 23, 2013 by Nenad M

[NenadM]

When blades dulled out, it can be used as little squeegee for puttying. Very usefull for precise work with putty

 

 

 

Edited March 26, 2014 by Nenad M

[klimi]

The blades looks famous, anyway i wish you Merry Christmas and nice moments with yours family and friends.

 

Pavel

[NenadM]

Blades seem so sweet and useful, but nothing other than Chinese junk. Single blade shape lasts only 5-15 cuts of veneer. Holders of blades are self-destructive : separated in pieces almost immediately. Blades in holders "stay" still as them are on some drugs. Nothing serious can be done with

 

I got exactly what I paid, and learned something ...

 

Edited December 23, 2013 by Nenad M

[popeye the sailor]

I do wish you luck with the freeing ports........your adding in detail that is very easily dismissed in most kits.   a friend of mine in Canada sent me a bunch of dental drill bits.   I haven't found an opportunity to use them yet,  so I really can't tell you how they work.   have a great holiday,  and hope to see more of your fine work in the coming year! 

[NenadM]

Moments that made us laugh although it is better to cry

 

Yesterday I was in one representative government building in the ceremony conference hall, and look at what I see

 

Entrance door

 

No comment is needed 

 

Edited March 26, 2014 by Nenad M

[popeye the sailor]

what is that.........a patch in the floor!   tax payers  good money to have their buildings built........and look what they get :D :D

[NenadM]

And I am proud to myself.

 

First freeing port is finished.

 

Eleven more to go

View from outside



View from inside

Edited March 26, 2014 by Nenad M

[rfolsom]

Looks great, Nenad...  I'm going to have to have a go with the riveted outlines..

 

Merry Christmas and Happy Holiday Season!

 

Bob

[mtaylor]

Nice work, Nenad.  I think you just modeled something that hasn't been done before.  Or is very rarely modeled.

[NenadM]

Thanks Marc and Bob

 

Kind words of experienced modellers as you are very significant for me to go forward. 

 

BTW Marc, your fabulous plank-on-frame technique on Lincorne is elusive dream for me, at least in this life

[NenadM]

Admiral finished 1000 pieces Puzzle

 

 

and forward to 3000 pieces Puzzle ...

 

 

devil, devil ...

 

With famous operas on phone I have downloaded this days, go to workshop. I am familiar with famous arias and overtures, but decided to listen whole length of them. In my cave it is ideal place and time  to study music I can not listen in home ( kids and Admiral dont like that). It is also impossible in office ( phone calls, concentrate on writing and reading or listening clients, and music just pass by me)

 

Marvelous

 

Mozart Requiem

Verdi Requiem

Rossini

 

And after two hours, two more outside freeing ports finished before painting. Nails are made of putty and applied with top of the narrow needle

 

 

 

I needed little rasp (2 mm) to correct traces of glue, to thin hinges, and to round corners of hinges. It was impossible on table before glueing ( less than 1x2 mm). I am blind for that, and hardly find that little pieces on desk, so I take my hidden toy, make some jig-rasp with sandpaper 280, and it works well

 

 

Tomorrow is last working day before two week vacation ( New Year, on January 7th Orthodox Christmas, on January 13th so called "Serbian New Year" ... so many non-working days, and nobody really work. I can go to office, but there is nobody around to work with. Courts dont work until January 20th also). Travelling nowhere (maybe in circle of 100 km to visit some friends in their cottages), have to paint bathroom walls and to replace ground cloth in bathroom to make my Admiral happy. There will be a time for Her Majesty also, to sleep and to read some books, and to rest from madness in public life. I promised to myself not to watch TV these days

 

Happy New Year and Christmas to everybody !!!!

Edited March 26, 2014 by Nenad M

[keelhauled]

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! 

 

The freeing ports look great!!

 

You are making the rest of us look bad!

 

Marc

[NenadM]

 

You are making the rest of us look bad!

 

So, Marc, let`s do something for you not to fell bad

 

Here is something for you to feel good, what make me to feel bad. I wrote above something about lost lines of deck, and here is exactly what happened

 

 

You can see that bulwark line of panels IS NOT parallel to deck, and mistake is really huge. I do not see any way to correct this in this stage of building. If I eventually rise main deck to adequate line, then I must rise front and rear deck too, and then definitely whole side look of model goes to hell. I must leave it as it is, ( and live with it, Bob !) and try to mask this some way, when climb to deck-works again. I can see, I ll have a great problem with inside freeing ports on some positions - some of 12 are on right position, some are rised too high to panel line, some are just near the deck. That really make me bad, and sure make you laught. Where was my brain in early stage of building ?

 

Happiness is that freeing ports from outside look are on their right position and they all are in scale

 

Other mistakes I can see are not realy visible in my model ( because I do not intend to make museum model) or were corrected earlier, and that is main reason I decide to over-detail Her everywhere I can do, and know how to do

 

In addition to still existing deck furniture and other known elements, in some pictures of CS I have seen some chains on deck, spare mast strapped to bulwark, bunch of ropes laid down to deck etc etc, and other details I have just to investigate, and think that will be solution. Also, above this mess is forest of ropes and sails and other rigging elements, which in this condition I must do perfectly with ALL details I have seen on MSW adequate to Cutty. Also I think about to spread all auxiliaray sails on every place them can be spread ( I must find exactly word for them so edit will follow)

 

Edit: Studdy sails ( stunt sails)

 

 

 

It is not accidentally what I wrote in my signature

 

Happy me

 

Only left to hope not to make another so huge mistake. But I enjoy cleaning this mess very much, and every work hour in shipyard is happy hour

Edited March 26, 2014 by Nenad M

[popeye the sailor]

something like that Nenad,  will most likely get lost when you get the deck fitted out........trust me.   small mistake,  in contrast to what you've been trying to put into this build..........keep going and try not to look back!     it reminds me of what I did one time:

 

I owned a duplex.........the apartment next door was empty,  so I took the time to make some improvements.   one of them was the stairs outside.......I planned,  I measured the hell out of this thing,  and it came out looking like crap!   a week or so later,  someone wanted to rent it.......I had to work like a fiend to correct the stairs.   I just threw it together......it came out perfect!

 

your doing a wonderful job on this build.......your learning some really valuable lessons here.   your next scratch build will be so much better for it.!

[NenadM]

There is a way to make this little things. Needle, putty on same top on needle and my secret toy to see anything



One side is finished. About one hour of work for each freeing port (only outside)

Edited December 29, 2013 by Nenad M

[keelhauled]

Nenad,

 

I agree with Popeye, when you get the pin rails, deck houses, and rope coils in place the difference in heights of the bulwarks won't be noticeable. Small mistake.

 

The details that you are putting into the freeing ports on the outside will definitely be noticeable and appreciated.

 

take care,

Marc

[NenadM]

And another side is done

 

I discover that our cat Adrian adore Verdi¨s Requiem. Two hours he did not move from shipyard ....

Edited December 29, 2013 by Nenad M

[Sailor1234567890]

Looking great Nenad.

Popeye, stairs are an art. Once upon a time, the house carpenter had the stair builder come in to build and install stairs. They are tricky. Weird angles, they need to have a rise of just the right size of the feel of them will be off. If they curve or are angled, they need even more attention. My dad has built a number of staircases and he's just starting to get good at building them straight. A curved or angled staircase…… I wouldn't even attempt it. Modern ones are prefab and cut to fit the space after the prefab unit arrives. No more art to it. Not like our modelling craft here. There's art to what we do here. 

Back to Cutty Sark, sorry.

[NenadM]

Decembar 29th, 13:00h and 10⁰ C outside, calm with a lot of sun. Some final garden work before snow, waiting mother in law to come to lunch with us (we install this happening as Sunday family habit, since her husband, my father in law was gone in May, and she is alone now). In mean time made some tests with veneer preparing for second Hull war (planking of second layer)

 

Extension (22:20)

 

Second Hull war begin

 

Adrian don¨t like Verdi Traviata opera 

 

I like

 

Here am I in planking business again ... 

 

Starting second layer. Tests I made before lunch lead me to the next

 

Veneer must be thinned to half, and light pre-covered with acrylic paint to get some elasticity. All this then sanded with very fine sandpaper. It glue well

 

Comparing planks look at different pictures, and analyzing plans, I decide to plank with strips 5cm long and 3 mm wide, to fit planks in scale as on CS. Longer veneer planks I do not know how to put. I think that it will be OK, particularly after painting them with black acrylic paint 

 

 

 

Edited March 26, 2014 by Nenad M

[NenadM]

Little observation

 

Planks are 3mm wide

 

When you are measuring, and cutting strips of veneer  3mm wide, you face with fact that 3mm can be THICK 3mm, and can be THIN 3mm, and can be something between THICK and THIN 3mm.

 

All of this is still 3mm

 

During planking time, there can be significant difference between them, and sometimes THICK 3mm must be reduced to "something between" or to THIN 3mm

 

Now, I am sorry I did not noticed this difference during planking fore and aft decks

Edited December 29, 2013 by Nenad M

[popeye the sailor]

sanding will take care of that........you'll be painting it anyway.   your best bet would be to go through your wood and pick out the thicker stuff,  and save it for the bottom.    or better yet........reverse it.  save the thinner stuff for the bottom..........the copper plates will make up for the difference 

[Sailor1234567890]

Still intrigued with the short planks. Should turn out fine though.

[rfolsom]

Nenad:

 

I must apologize to you;  I was going over my build log and found a question you asked that I did not see.  I'm sure you found the answer but I'm embarrassed that I did not see the post.  Sometimes I just skim over my own log and go to my friends' logs that are making more progress.

 

Anyway, scaling in photoshop is easy, and known reference points are the way to go.  (Distance between masts is probably the best indicator.)  Scale up, or down, to Campell's plans, and stick with it.  I was lucky that my kit was incredibly accurate with the bulwarks and keel, but the details were very vague...

 

Very nice progress;  almost time to copper!

 

Happy New Year to You and your Family;

 

~Bob