Fair American by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale

[KenW]

I’m model building with snow falling outside my window.  Very picturesque.  And I’m glad I’m in where it is warm.  Outside it is 20 degrees fahrenheit or -7 degrees celsius.

I completed the stern with all of its fancy art work.  I attach photos showing the progress of the effort.  When painting the curtains, I tried to build up the paint to simulate the folds in the ‘fabric’.  The name and scroll work are decals that I made from a scan of the plans.  The word “Fair” is a bit faded, so I may redo it.  It doesn’t look as perfect as I imaged it would, but then, whatever does?

 

Edited March 24, 2014 by KenW

[KennyH78]

Looking really good, do you use a certain program to make the decals or just print onto the decal paper?

[russ]

The stern looks good. Very clean. Nice work.

 

Russ

[KenW]

Thanks russ and KennyH78.  In answer to your questions, Kenny:

I scanned the stern view from the plans and created .jpg files for both the name and the scroll.  I inserted the files into Windows Word and printed the result onto decal paper.

However, the decal paper I used was obtained from "www.modeltransoftware.com/decalpaper.html".  It seems this paper is unique.  Printers don't have white ink and white areas are clear when printed on most decal papers.  This paper is different in that the white areas of the decals actually dry white.  You have to follow a special procedure (using canola oil) to get the white areas to show up clear. 

I was going to have the ship name and the fancy scrolling be white, but I noticed that on the photos of the Fair American model at Annapolis, those areas were gold.  So I made a last minute change.

One thing - with this paper do NOT use solvents if the edges of the decal curl.  Follow the instructions and use cigarette lighter fluid.

Good luck.

[wilnatp]

Great work Ken. The stern painting is very well done!

 

Thinking I might do some model work tonight myself. Here in MN it is -17 (wind chill to -43) with blowing snow. Makes me imagine the horror experienced by Franklin's Erebus and Terror and the lost expedition.

[Mirabell61]

Very nice model Ken,

 

also good idea of doing the inner bulwarks prior to planking the outside for many reasons....

 

Nils

[KenW]

The bow has been completed.  I think this was the hardest element of the build so far.  But it looks acceptable.  The head rails were cut from spare 1/8 inch thick material since I couldn’t get that steep bend from a plank.  I scored the edge with an x-acto knife and awl.  The middle rail was created from two 1/16 inch thick planks and laminated together.  They were cut from planks ¼ inch in width to prevent the need for an edge bend.

 

While following GaryKap’s blog, I read an entry from wq3296 which pointed out that the door to the cabin is only 3 feet tall according to the model’s scale.  I can’t see the Captain being forced to stoop that low to enter his quarters.  I’m considering modifying the entry to a companion way with a sliding top.  That way I don’t have to make extensive renovations.  I am wondering if that type of entry is accurate for the period.  I could also have a companion way top that opens upward on hinges.  I’m not sure which is better.  I welcome comments/opinions.

[KennyH78]

That is some pretty awesome work on the bow! I hope that I can make mine look that good when I get to that point.

[KenW]

The order of holly planking has arrived and I have started to plank the lower hull.  On my last model I was not concerned with planking technique since I just gave it many coats of paint.  This time I want to do it right by using the holly, which is about the correct color, and leaving the planking unpainted and clearly visible.

 

However, I can’t seem to get the hang of “lining out the hull.”  I have several tutorials; and am using David Antscherl’s as my base with reference to Keith Harris’.  The garboard strake has been fitted and clamped (but not glued at this point).  I divided bulkheads 2, 8 and 15 in half and ran thin artist tape along this mid line of the hull.  The problem is that the tape is shaped like a ‘V’.  I can’t see how this will work.  I estimate that even if I straighten the tape out, I will require at least 3 drop strakes and 2 stealers. 

 

I am hoping for a ‘eureka moment’.  But lacking that some advice or comments would be welcome.  (Actually the photo doesn’t look so bad, but it looks weird in real life.)

[russ]

Ken:

I have had good results by using tape at each frame to measure out the complete length of the surface to be covered with planks. I then take the tape off the frame and lay it out flat. Now I have a mark at the each end of the tape and I divide the space between those marks equally. Then I put the tape back on the frame with the end marks in the same place on the frame and transfer the rest of the marks onto the frame. Now I have, on the frame, the width of each plank that crosses that frame, I do the same for each frame and along the bow and stern post.

 

On your hull, I can see the possible need for stealers aft as you approach the sternpost, but I doubt you really need any drop strakes going into the bow. One key to running your planks into the bow is to makes sure the garboard and broad strakes do not climb up the bow too far. If they do, this will crowd the rest of the planks at the bow rabbet and then you will find you will not have enough room for all of them, leading to the drop strakes to fix that problem.  Properly spiled and tapered, the general shape of the planks at the bow should look like a downward sloping "S". The ends of the planks will appear to sweep upward slightly at the bow, but in reality, they will not.

 

Russ

[KenW]

Thanks to Russ for his helpful reply. 

 

My plan for the lower hull planking is as follows:  I will leave the garboard strake clamped into place and take measurements of each bulkhead from the garboard strake to the wale.  My measurements of the aft, a midships and forward bulkheads show that bulkhead 15 has the largest distance.  Using the plank width of 3/16 inches, there will be 18 planks.  At bulkhead 8 (a midships), the planks will have to be trimmed to 5/32 inches in order to fit 18 planks.  And at Bulkhead 2, the planks will be 1/8 inches.  I will use the artists tape to divide the hull into 4 sections of 4 to 5 planks each. Based on the ‘look’ of the tapes, I will make adjustments.   Each strake will consist of 3 or 4 planks about 5 or 6 inches long.  Hopefully, I will only have to spile the planks at the bow since I didn’t order any extra wide planks.

 

I hope I am on the right track with this plan of action.

[GaryKap]

Hi Ken -  I am watching your progress with keen interest.  I too am beginning the process of planking the lower hull.  I have pretty much decided to go with the 1/16" basswood to do this.  The walnut is far too hard and brittle, and splits easily.  I measured every bulkhead distance from the keel to the bottom of the wale.  As you said, this distance is largest at bulkhead 16 and steadily decreases forward.  The distance at bulkhead 2 is 1 3/16" less than at bulkhead 16.  i am getting plank withs that are similar to yours from bulkheads 15 to 2.  Could you please post a larger closeup photo of the garboard shape at the bow?  It would be a help to me.

 

Your headrails are beautiful!!  On my recent RATTLESNAKE build, I found the headrails to be one of the more difficult tasks as well.  You did a great job.

 

Keep the progress reports coming.

 

<<Gary>> 

[KenW]

Thanks Gary and I hope I can be of help. 

I am still not comfortable with the tactics for planking the lower hull.  As you see in a previous posting, measuring the distance at each bulkhead, for me, didn’t provide a real plan of action.  For now, I think the key is in the bands placed along the hull.  They must “look right”; although that is a very subjective criteria.  I only have one row of planks applied and the garboard strake is still not glued.  But a photo of the bow portion is attached. 

I will continue to watch your blog to see if you come up with a better plan of action.

[russ]

Ken:

Once you measure the distance along each frame, then divide that distance by the same number of planks to get the width of each plank at each frame.

 

Russ

[rafine]

Ken,If you do as Russ says, it's really less difficult to do than it is to explain. You will find that you will be able to taper the planks to fit, even if you don't spile.

 

Bob 

[KenW]

Thanks russ and rafine.

I had a problem when measuring the distance along each frame and dividing that distance by the same number of planks. When I stretched a thin tape along the middle plank line, the tape looked like a 'V'.  So now I have a tape placed on the frames starting at the middle of bulkhead 15 and ending at the middle of bulkhead 2.  That looks right to me.  Then as I add a row of planks (I have only added two so far), I look again to see how the new row looks.  I can only hope it turns out all right.  The problem I see coming soon, is that there are 8 rows to the middle of bulkheads 15 and 2, but at bulkhead 8 there will need to be 9 to arrive at the middle according to the tape.

I know this sounds confusing when trying to explain.  But, if I mess it up there is always paint.

[KenW]

Here are photos showing the status of my planking of the lower hull.  I think it is going well; but I am still not sure that I can ‘see’ the line of the planks.  The planking seems to rise a little at bulkhead #8.  So far I haven’t had to spile any planks.  I find I can soak the holly for a couple of hours and then clamp the plank in place to let it dry.  Once dried, I hardly need to use the clamps when gluing.  And some of the planks look spiled.  The disadvantage is there is a lot of wait time.

I hope I can get some feedback about that ’line of planks’.  Would a photo from a better angle be helpful?

[russ]

Ken:

So far the line of the planks looks okay. I am concerned about a couple of things right off the cuff.

 

First, where the planks meet the rabbet at the bow, you are sure the angle of the ends of the planks is correct? There appear to be some gaps there. It might be the camera angle though.

 

Second, there appears to be a dip in the planks aft at about the third bulkhead from the stern. Again, maybe it is a camera angle.

 

Russ

[KenW]

Thanks Russ.  I see the dip at bulkhead #14 and there does seem to be a problem at the bow. 

I also see that where the planks end at the stern there is a problem.  I might put a thin molding there. 

Another problem will be that the keel, stem and stern posts are basswood while the planking is holly.  The color isn't the same and I'm open to suggestions on that.

Anyway, back to the shipyard.  There is so much snow outside that I can't think of any reason to venture out.

[russ]

Ken:

A moulding will probably take care of the problem at the tuck of the stern where the bottom planks end.

 

The joint at the bow where the planks go into the rabbet is more important since that is more visible.

 

The color difference is something that cannot be fixed unless you create a new stem, keel, and sternpost out of holly.

 

Russ

[aliluke]

I wouldn't worry about that colour difference Ken. I have the same issue on Fly - boxwood hull and walnut stem, stern posts. I actually quite like the contrast.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[KenW]

Thanks Russ and Alistair.  I don't have the wood on hand to make a new keel, stem and stern.  I will just have to see what the contrast in colors looks like.  There is always paint or stain (used sparingly).

I think the problem at the bow won't be too bad once sanding has been done. 

Cheers.

[KenW]

I’ve added 8 strakes to the lower hull, which I thought was half way.  It turns out there will be 10 strakes needed to complete the job.  I did some sanding and I’m not totally pleased with the results.  I don’t like what the pencil lines do to the holly strips.  Sometimes they get a shade darker and the glue, if I apply a little too much, runs.  Sanding does not seem to completely restore that nice white color.  I am careful so that no water touches the planks once they have been shaped and dried. 

I re-measured each bulkhead and applied a new tape at the top of the un-planked section.  I think the ‘line of the planks’ looks good.   That is encouraging.  But, I will probably use at least one coat of paint to cover up my mistakes at the bow and stern; some plastic wood is going to be needed.  The kit supplied white paint is almost the exact color of the holly.  My craftsmanship is better than on my first model, but still needs to improve.

[aliluke]

Not sure what is going on with the holly there Ken. I used it on my deck with pencil caulking and had no issues at all. Perhaps the joints between the planks need to be tighter? Easier said than done and certainly easier on a deck than a hull...Any way it all looks pretty ship shape to me. The flow of the planking looks great - you maybe being to hard on yourself?

 

Cheers

Alistair

[KenW]

I definitely need to make my plank joints tighter. 

The problem with the pencil doesn't show up that well in the photos. 

Thanks for the encouragement, though.  I will keep sanding and hope for the best.  That paint can is always there.

Cheers.

[KennyH78]

Looking really good to me, Ken. I just hope that mine looks halfway descent once I am done with it. At least it's a learning experience that I can apply to the MS Rattlesnake kit that I got in the mail yesterday.

 

Keep up the great work!

 

Kenny

[KenW]

Thanks Kenny; and Alistair as well for the kind words.

Cheers.

[scott larkins]

Looking good.  Keep working at it.

[GaryKap]

Hi Ken -  Your build is looking great.  I wish I did as good as you did with the topsides.  But here is my question for you and all of the "followers". 

What color would have been appropriate and accurate for the quarter badges...those fancy windows on both sides at the stern.  The Rogers model has them gold, of course.   And rafine looks to have them tan or light brown.  My MS Ratlesnake has them in white, so that's an option, as is ochre.  Anyone have any other ideas? 

 

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

Gary - I don't know what color would be period correct.  I thought white looked better, but went with the color of the Rodger's model.  No other reason.

 

I’m still working on planking the lower hull.  But my method requires a lot of time for planks to soak and dry in place, and then for the glue to dry.  So I have to find something else to do while I’m waiting.  Recently, one of the entries to CaryKap’s blog, (wq3296, I think), pointed out that the door to the captain’s quarters was only 3 feet high according to the scale of the model.  I can’t imagine a captain stooping that low.

 

Since I’m still in the process of building the ship, I didn’t want to engage in an extensive renovation.  I thought the best/easiest solution was to use a sliding top over the cabin door.  While doing research I found a drawing of an 1818 American revenue cutter with a sliding entrance to the rear cabin.  That was enough for me to decide that my solution was “period correct”.   I still need to add the tree nails, but the sliding top looks good to me.