HMS Terror by DanielD - FINISHED - OcCre - Scale 1:75 - Second Build Started 10/4/2020

[DanielD]

Finally finished with the mid ship pumps and winch drums. Was a chore but finally succeeded in getting the pump drive shaft working. Now onto something else  

 

Edited January 20, 2021 by DanielD

[DanielD]

In the shipyard today I finally hooked up the tiller/rudder to the wheel. Took a bit to get the shives to work smoothly, but works great in the end. To make the thread pull easily through the shive, I waxed a heavy thread, put through the hole of the shive, then pulled the string back and forth several times lightly sanding the hole and getting some wax rubbed in. Once I did this step, the finished thread/rope now pulls easily, almost as if there was a real pulley installed. Thanks for looking everyone.

 

 

[DanielD]

A little more work happening in the shipyard, today with the smoke stack for the steam engine. I was not happy with the version of the stack that came in the kit with the seams nearly 1mm thick. At the same time, I don’t really have anything around the yard that will lend well to a new stack. So I took the kit version and sanded down the seams to just a hint of what they were and then chemically blackened it with a new trap door at its base.

 

[DanielD]

Another project today was the mid ship grate.

 

 

[J11]

Beautiful work there @DanielD, very clean and detailed.

[DanielD]

Today in the shipyard, I took a break from the Terror and tried my hand building a small boat. In this case, I built a Kolderstok small boat, which is nearly the exact size as the cast metal small boat included in the Terror kit. This will be the first of three life boats that I'll include on this model, well...maybe four, we shall see.  Also, I built a sled, similar to the one that is described on Dr. Betts building Terror website. I think it will be a nice addition to this kit.

 

 

Edited February 1, 2021 by DanielD

[clearway]

Coming along nicely Daniel- i am still thinking about whether the idea of the sled is right, but will most likely leave mine as is (also helps keep the ships boats bow above the forward accommodation hatch). I will have up to 5 boats for my Terror- 1 above the main ships launch, two on the skids and maybe one slung over the stern davits.

 

Keith

[DanielD]

While building this small boat, the instructions are a little shy on the length of the oars, actually, the instructions just say craft an oar. I went looking for 1800’s oar examples and I came across a formula on how to set the length of the oar. I had no idea that such a formula existed. 1/2 the boat beam, times 3 plus 6”. I converted the 6” to mm and in my scale (1/75)...6*25.4/75=2mm. The beam of my small boat is 32mm, so ((32 / 2) * 3) + 2 = 50mm. I made the length of my oars 50mm, and I think they match the scale of the small boat perfectly.

 

[Keith S]

Hey, nice job on the boat! Those little boats are like a ship-building project by themselves. The crazy thing is how many boats these vessels had. TWELVE. I bought a few more "master Korabel" boats which are roughly the right size, plus a "model shipways" one that is a bit larger, to make the bottom one on the "stack" of boats in the waist of the ship. I reckon I'll have three boats piled up midships, two of the double-ended metal ones upside-down on the rack in the stern, and two hanging from davits, and still be about six boats short of a full load! I can't work out where they kept them all!

 

[DanielD]

3 minutes ago, Keith S said:

Hey, nice job on the boat! Those little boats are like a ship-building project by themselves. The crazy thing is how many boats these vessels had. TWELVE. I bought a few more "master Korabel" boats which are roughly the right size, plus a "model shipways" one that is a bit larger, to make the bottom one on the "stack" of boats in the waist of the ship. I reckon I'll have three boats piled up midships, two of the double-ended metal ones upside-down on the rack in the stern, and two hanging from davits, and still be about six boats short of a full load! I can't work out where they kept them all!

 

Wow, 12 boats? I didn’t know that! I’ll have to get some more.

[DanielD]

I’ve spent a long time planning and thinking how I would turn a simple hand pump into the switch that turns on/off the the lights and the steam engine driven propeller. Today those hours of planning worked out! The following image and video shows the function of the now working switch. Oh happy day!

 

[Keith S]

Well, that's just brilliant.

 

[DanielD]

Well, didn’t get a lot of time in the shipyard this weekend, but did finish the second hand pump and a good start on the forward windlass. If you ask the admiral, I spent all day on that one little piece. 😉

 

[Keith S]

I had a hard time making the holes square. Yours looks pretty good. On a separate note, I notice you've lined all the apertures in the bulwarks with thin wood. That must have taken hours, but it looks really shipshape. I wish I'd done that.

 

[DanielD]

4 minutes ago, Keith S said:

I had a hard time making the holes square. Yours looks pretty good.

 

Keith, I took a newish square blade and ground it down to just 2mm wide. Then just cut square holes and popped out the plug. Worked well 99% of the time.

[clearway]

nice work so far on the windlass😁- for the brackets on the fore side i used the L shaped off cut of ply you are left with in the middle of the tops after removing the parts for the accommodation hatches.

 

other Keith

[DanielD]

Today’s shipyard tales include finishing the forward hatch, installing a smoke stack, and finishing the forward windlass. It’s not bolted to the deck yet, but will be as soon as I have the rest of the hardware in place. 
 

[Shickluna searcher]

On 11/1/2020 at 1:32 AM, DanielD said:

Today I installed the keel with some modifications. Added some metal plates including rivets to hide the seams of the keel. The rivets are 3D and should show up nicely when I paint the hull black.

 

 

This gave me an idea.  I want to install lighting, maybe not as much as you have done, but with LED or LED with fibre optic delivering the light to different places.   Rather than have a battery on board,  I want to have metal contacts in the keel with spring contacts in the cradle.  What you have modeled here would work but I would have to install the keel -- not stern post or stem-- before planking.  I did this on Lady Nelson and just taped up the keel to prevent damage from sanding.  Can you see any reason why that would be a problem?  Another option would be to use brass pedestal stands to deliver power.  I could solder wires inside to the internal nut, but again, it kind of demands the keel be there for proper fitting.

[DanielD]

17 minutes ago, Shickluna searcher said:

This gave me an idea.  I want to install lighting, maybe not as much as you have done, but with LED or LED with fibre optic delivering the light to different places.   Rather than have a battery on board,  I want to have metal contacts in the keel with spring contacts in the cradle.  What you have modeled here would work but I would have to install the keel -- not stern post or stem-- before planking.  I did this on Lady Nelson and just taped up the keel to prevent damage from sanding.  Can you see any reason why that would be a problem?  Another option would be to use brass pedestal stands to deliver power.  I could solder wires inside to the internal nut, but again, it kind of demands the keel be there for proper fitting.

 

I had this same idea, but I was already committed to my current design. You should be fine creating contacts like this to feed power into the ship. Go for it! I’ll follow along  

[Shickluna searcher]

11 hours ago, DanielD said:

 

I had this same idea, but I was already committed to my current design. You should be fine creating contacts like this to feed power into the ship. Go for it! I’ll follow along  

But do you think installing the keel before planking would be a problem?  And then taping it well before sanding planks.  Need that to have wiring done and tested before closing her up.

[DanielD]

13 minutes ago, Shickluna searcher said:

But do you think installing the keel before planking would be a problem?  And then taping it well before sanding planks.  Need that to have wiring done and tested before closing her up.

I would just have the two wires come down through the false keel, on the centerline of the ship, leave them dangle until the planking and sanding is finished. Then install the modified keel with the plates or easier yet, install a two brass display pillars to hook the wires to.  Rather way, I’d do the planking and sanding first to get a good smooth hull finish. Need to be careful working around the wires, don’t want to nick or accidentally cut one off, but would be easier than trying to sand down the hull with the keel in place.

[Shickluna searcher]

2 hours ago, DanielD said:

I would just have the two wires come down through the false keel, on the centerline of the ship, leave them dangle until the planking and sanding is finished. Then install the modified keel with the plates or easier yet, install a two brass display pillars to hook the wires to.  Rather way, I’d do the planking and sanding first to get a good smooth hull finish. Need to be careful working around the wires, don’t want to nick or accidentally cut one off, but would be easier than trying to sand down the hull with the keel in place.

I thought about the pedestals.  I have a pair left over from Lady Nelson.  I will have to look up how to do those properly.   Thanks for your thoughts on this.

14 hours ago, DanielD said:

 

I had this same idea, but I was already committed to my current design. You should be fine creating contacts like this to feed power into the ship. Go for it! I’ll follow along  

But do you think installing the keel before planking would be a problem?  And then taping it well before sanding planks.  Need that to have wiring done and tested before closing her up.

[Shickluna searcher]

2 hours ago, DanielD said:

I would just have the two wires come down through the false keel, on the centerline of the ship, leave them dangle until the planking and sanding is finished. Then install the modified keel with the plates or easier yet, install a two brass display pillars to hook the wires to.  Rather way, I’d do the planking and sanding first to get a good smooth hull finish. Need to be careful working around the wires, don’t want to nick or accidentally cut one off, but would be easier than trying to sand down the hull with the keel in place.

I thought about the pedestals.   I have a pair left over from Lady Nelson.  But I will have to look up how to do those properly without risk of loose parts inside. 

[DanielD]

For a rare snow day in the great northwest, I found a little time to finish the deck works around the foremast.

 

[Keith S]

Oo, I like the little sheaves in your kingposts. Mine are just simulated with a little circle of wire. I also like the bell- yours looks more like a real one than the one from the kit. Where'd you get that?

 

Also I see you got some rope onto the ends of those guards. Maybe I gave up too early. I'll have to borrow my wife's reading glasses and get a needle-threader from the sewing kit and try again. 🥵

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by Keith S

[DanielD]

1 hour ago, Keith S said:

Oo, I like the little sheaves in your kingposts. Mine are just simulated with a little circle of wire. I also like the bell- yours looks more like a real one than the one from the kit. Where'd you get that?

 

Also I see you got some rope onto the ends of those guards. Maybe I gave up too early. I'll have to borrow my wife's reading glasses and get a needle-threader from the sewing kit and try again. 🥵

 

Keith, thanks for the kudos! I ordered a new bell from ageofsail.com (SHIPS BELL IN POLISHED BRASS (6MM, AM4140/06)). As far as reading glasses, they are a must! 

[DanielD]

Keith and Keith, I started planning my bowsprit and jibboom, basing my information on Lee’s book. I am using the dimensions for the Frigate 10th Class. My first conundrum is the bowsprit per Lee’s book should be 29’ 0” (25.4mm*12”*29’/75scale=118mm); however, the kit plans lists 162mm as the length. This is a large discrepancy, 44mm!

 

The jibboom however is right on, according to Lee, should be 33’ 0” (25.4mm*12”*33’/75scale=134mm) and the kit lists 130mm, just 4mm difference.

 

So...build per Lee’s book?
 

Other things to add/change 1) the heel of the jibboom is squared not round, 2) add sheaves to both ends of the jibboom, the heel sheave was cut athwartships and the outer end cut up and down, 3) create a nice looking rigging stop at the outer end of the jibboom (see attached images).

 

Well, I’m thinking of following Lee’s book, I’m just a little worried about the 44mm discrepancy. How much will this affect other things on the boat....

 

Upon further evaluation, is seems that almost all classes of ships have a shorter bowsprit vs jibboom (jibboom around 5-12% longer), so the Terror kit must be wrong as it has a longer bowsprit by almost 25%.

 

Edited February 14, 2021 by DanielD

[clearway]

Hi Daniel, i made my bowsprit approx. 120mm long outside of the bulwarks (i think it does mention this in the book) where as occre are giving you the entire length. As regards jib boom depends how accurate you want to go really, my advise is check out the full size practice and alter to suit your needs (but not too much)! remember Terror was built around 1813 so any mast fittings (mast caps, tops etc) will be from that time period, though it looks like her rig was updated to the 1850 period as matthew Betts states she had her rig altered. Hope that all made sense😉

 

Keith

Edited February 14, 2021 by clearway
typo

[DanielD]

7 hours ago, clearway said:

Hi Daniel, i made my bowsprit approx. 120mm long outside of the bulwarks (i think it does mention this in the book) where as occre are giving you the entire length. As regards jib boom depends how accurate you want to go really, my advise is check out the full size practice and alter to suit your needs (but not too much)! remember Terror was built around 1813 so any mast fittings (mast caps, tops etc) will be from that time period, though it looks like her rig was updated to the 1850 period as matthew Betts states she had her rig altered. Hope that all made sense😉

 

Keith

Keith, thank you! I missed that detail. When I went back and looked, it was right there.

 

Next question, I’m having trouble figuring out what is the overlap between the bowsprit and the jibboom. Part of my problem is that I don’t know the terminology, but I’m learning. Thanks for all your help!

 

Update: I found the reference to the distance I’m looking for “one third the length of the jibboom from the cap.” My jibboom is 134mm, so I will install the saddle at 45mm from the cap. Problem solved!

Edited February 15, 2021 by DanielD

[Keith S]

Well, using dates is problematic to say the least. These ships must be regarded as sort of the NASA "super guppy". This aeroplane started life as a bog-standard Boeing Stratocruiser, and ended up being a weirdo unpressurized turboprop heavy carrier with only the pilot's control-stick being original Boeing standard kit. 

 

Here's the thing about Erebus and Terror. They recently raised the Erebus's bell. It says "1845" on it. We all know that Erebus was built well before 1845. We all also know that sailor-folk consider all that is "the ship" resides in her bell. 

 

My point therefore is that if they gave them new bells before their last voyage, it's likely that everything else was updated as well. 

 

That's my thinking on the subject, and I invite polite debate.