HMS Fly by TimC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - First Time Builder

[glbarlow]

It's supposed to be relaxing, not creating anxiety.  I'd encourage you to check my two logs after you watch Chuck's videos and tutorials to see how I practically implemented them.  As I said, I've built 9 models, but converting to Chuck's methods made a huge difference for me.  I could have never single planked Cheerful as well as I did without having used it.  It's not that hard once you get the hang of it, and it doesn't take that long to get the hang of it....

[starlight]

Fast progress, Tim! I look forward to using your build log as another excellent reference when I get to the hull planking myself. For us first time builders, I think the goal should be to learn as much as possible while still producing an acceptable-looking result. With that in mind, the first planking is a perfect opportunity to make mistakes and learn from them. Just some food for thought.

 

-starlight

[TimC]

Made a bit of progress the last few days!!  @Chucks videos were exactly what I needed to see.  Somehow it made a lot click for me and I dove right in.  It’s not perfect and I definitely have a few lumps and bumps to fill and sand but it’s better than I expected for a first go 

 

thank you all for the help thus far 

 

tim

[Richard44]

Nothing wrong with that Tim.

 

Cheers

[Ronald-V]

Looks good! Bulkhead 12 could be a bit more faired, it needs a lot fairing to get a smooth transition to bulkhead 13. But you can sand the planks also afterwards, so no problem. 

[TimC]

Hi all 

 

I just finished up the first layer of planking 😊!  It is far from perfect but I’m actually pretty happy with how it came out. I feel like it has decent symmetry between sides and I’m definitely more confident to go into the final layer of planking. 
 

there are some minor gaps that I plan to hit with wood filler. I still need to obsess over it a few times to make sure I have sanded enough away to allow for the second layer at the bow and stern.  Then I’ll likely do a thin primer of grey which I believe a lot of people mention on here to see imperfections?? If this isn’t wise please let me know.

 

thank you to all who have helped this far.  I truely appreciate it and would not have made it this far without all of you.  The willingness to help in this community is incredible 

 

Tim

[glbarlow]

There’s no need for primer. The first layer is just the base for the second layer. Use all the wood filler you want and sand away as long as you don’t sand through it you’re fine.  Take into account the second layer to the stern post but remember you’ll want to sand that layer smooth too 

 

 First and foremost don’t over think it. Have fun. 

[TimC]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

There’s no need for primer. The first layer is just the base for the second layer. Use all the wood filler you want and sand away as long as you don’t sand through it you’re fine.  Take into account the second layer to the stern post but remember you’ll want to sand that layer smooth too 

 

 First and foremost don’t over think it. Have fun. 

Thanks for the primer tip.  That will definitely save a little time!  You were right before as well. Getting the hang of it only took a few planks, then I was able to relax and enjoy the sawdust 

[starlight]

Looks great, Tim!

[Richard44]

On 11/13/2020 at 2:44 PM, TimC said:

...... then I was able to relax and enjoy the sawdust 

If it took you as long as it did me to sand the hull, then you had plenty of time to enjoy the plenty of sawdust 😄😄.

 

It's looking good Tim.

[TimC]

Had the day off, so I got a good bit done over the weekend and today. Second planking is definitely easier with the entire surface underneath being solid and smooth.   

 

happy Monday!

 

[Ronald-V]

That is going fast! Nice job!👍

[AlanDavison]

Looking good.

But how do you keep your workstation so tidy? I try, but end up with all sorts of files, knives and brushes scattered all over the place!

[TimC]

15 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

Coming  along!

You havent got your stern post fitted I see - cannot see from the pics but do check that you are not going to end up over wide with the planking.

I believe you’re right that I may end up being a little wide in the end.  This is my own fault for not shaving enough off before the initial planking.  I was able to shave off a good amount after the first planking so I’m hoping that a light sanding after the 2nd planking will either make it flush or “close enough”. I’m already in making notes for my next build in areas to improve upon. I definitely understand the process a lot better now so I’ll be able to plan everything out more accurately 

[TimC]

11 hours ago, AlanDavison said:

Looking good.

But how do you keep your workstation so tidy? I try, but end up with all sorts of files, knives and brushes scattered all over the place!

It’s definitely a process and it’s a mess 99% of the time.  I just clean it up here and there to keep my girlfriend from using one of the very sharp scalpels against me  

[Sooty]

Hey, nice work! We are both at similar stages, I just finished my second planking on the Fly last week and I have moved on to decorations and the deck details.

Pay a bit of attention to getting the whale and the various strakes symmetric between port and starboard, and you'll be fine with that hull!

For when you are putting the strakes on (the small 1mm and 2mm walnut strips running along the hull, dividing the decorations), I noticed that the decorations are exactly one 1st planking strip wide, so you can use one of those as a spacer for the strakes to get them real neat.

[TimC]

22 hours ago, Sooty said:

Hey, nice work! We are both at similar stages, I just finished my second planking on the Fly last week and I have moved on to decorations and the deck details.

Pay a bit of attention to getting the whale and the various strakes symmetric between port and starboard, and you'll be fine with that hull!

For when you are putting the strakes on (the small 1mm and 2mm walnut strips running along the hull, dividing the decorations), I noticed that the decorations are exactly one 1st planking strip wide, so you can use one of those as a spacer for the strakes to get them real neat.

Thanks!  Im hopeful to be moving further this weekend. I took a look at yours and it is coming along nicely as well

 

the tip on the decorations is great! I will definitely reference that lime plank for spacing 

[TimC]

Bottom portion of the walnut planking completed last night.  Very surprised this went as well as it did for my first attempt. I’m very happy with at least some symmetry!

 

a question that I have now is that I really want to bring the wood to life, but don’t want to impact my ability to glue the other structures that are needed to the hull. I am also not completely sure at this point if I want to paint the bottom or go natural (leaning toward unpainted since my planking came out decent).

 

is there a way to accomplish a natural finish using tung oil, stain, varnish, etc that will leave me open to choices later? Is one better than the other?  I should note that I would prefer to only compliment the woods natural tones if I stay natural, I don’t want to overdo any stain or vanish

 

any and all advice would be very helpful.  I’ve used stain before but never tung oil so I’d be an amateur there. 
 

Have a great day, thanks for looking !

[Sooty]

I love your 2nd planking, and you did a very cool tapering job, with the planks following the natural curves of the hull. Well done!

I coated my hull with cellulose dope. It ended up looking pretty good and it really brought out the wood tones, so maybe you can make up a small piece of plywood planked with the 2nd planking strips and try it, to see if you are happy.

Note that I painted my hull and only used the dope to seal it, but I personally would have left it on the dope had I decided not to paint it. Here are a couple of pics to show you what it looked like when doped (I used a lot of filler, as I was going to paint it and didn't care much about making the 2nd planking super-neat).

I guess a glossy varnish would have the same effect; the other guys here will be a lot more experienced with varnishes and should be able to suggest the best stuff!

 

[glbarlow]

Your first 2nd planking looks great, nice job!

 

The common approach used by many modelers on this forum and the one I use is Satin (not Gloss) Wipe On Poly. It seals, looks great, and can be painted over or applied over paint. Your posts don’t indicate where your from, WOP is commonly available in the US, any hardware store has it. There is a UK version, but I don’t recall what it’s called. 

Edited November 21, 2020 by glbarlow

[TimC]

Thank you for the likes and suggestions! 
 

8 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Your first 2nd planking looks great, nice job!

 

The common approach used by many modelers on this forum and the one I use is Satin (not Gloss) Wipe On Poly. It seals, looks great, and can be painted over or applied over paint. Your posts don’t indicate where your from, WOP is commonly available in the US, any hardware store has it. There is a UK version, but I don’t recall what it’s called. 

glbarlow, I’m from Delaware. Is there a specific brand you like to work with?  I’ve seen a lot of people using Ronseal but it looks like that’s hard to find here in the US.  I feel like I see a lot of miniwax poly and varathane polys at my local Home Depot though

 

7 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

I have always used Ronseal satin diluted to taste  with white spirit  . Add enough white spirit and it becomes " wipe on" though I always use abrush with less dilution

Take care though they have been "fiddling" with the formula and brought out a water based version - I suggest you dont use that -it has a tendency to "cloud"

Go for the old fashioned solvent based stuff. Though its "clear" it adds a warm tone to the wood. Ronseal Ultra Tough Satincoat Varnish is the tin I have in the drawer at the moment

thank you for the input. I’d love to get to seal but I may have to try mini wax or varathane

[glbarlow]

Minwax Satin Wipe on Poly. Ronseal is a UK thing, not used in the US. I think Home Depot may have a different brand, doesn’t matter, the Wipe On Poly Satin is the key thing. 
 

Wipe On is different than other varathanes. It will specifically say Wipe On Poly on the can. It by far is the modelers choice. 

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

expensive

Not at all expensive in the US. I also use water based in some applications. I have no problem with it, but the WOP is better.

[TimC]

I really appreciate all the feedback!  I picked up a tin of miniwax satin clear for about 13$.  Once i get the upper portion of the gunport strips planked up, ill throw some scrap pieces together and start experimenting

 

 

[glbarlow]

My Cheerful coat has lots of coats. Apply it thin, hence the wipe on, it can take as long as 36-48 hours to fully dry.  At any time sand it with 400 grit and apply a second coat. Generally 2 coats, but more doesn’t hurt. Just don’t let it gunk up when you apply it.  Wipe on, wipe off. 
 

It’s great stuff.  Doing some practice runs to get a feel for it  off ship is an excellent plan.

[TimC]

20 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

My Cheerful coat has lots of coats. Apply it thin, hence the wipe on, it can take as long as 36-48 hours to fully dry.  At any time sand it with 400 grit and apply a second coat. Generally 2 coats, but more doesn’t hurt. Just don’t let it gunk up when you apply it.  Wipe on, wipe off. 
 

It’s great stuff.  Doing some practice runs to get a feel for it  off ship is an excellent plan.

Can’t thank you enough for the advice. I have about 4 planks left on the upper gun ports then going to sand everything down to even things out and remove any visible CA.  Then onto the clear coat hopefully.  Very excited to get into more of this ship.

[TimC]

So I have made a bit of progress since last time.  I got the bulwarks completed, finished the outer hull, and got some stain down.  
 

i finished the bulwarks with left over lime wood since I felt like it fit better and had a nicer color to apply red over without it coming out too darkened by the walnut.  I’m going to put another strip at the bottom but I’m not sure if I want to go red or have a slightly different shade to add some mild depth.  
 

After fiddling with some scrap pieces, I decided to put a layer of Puritan Pine stain over the walnut as I feel that the pine sank into the creases of the walnut and highlighted them while also bringing out the natural colors of the surface. I did a single wipe on layer so far that I plan to finish with poly satin once it cures.  Not sure if I’ll add a second layer of pine before that, since right now I love the look. 
 

 

[TimC]

On 11/21/2020 at 11:55 AM, glbarlow said:

Your first 2nd planking looks great, nice job!

 

The common approach used by many modelers on this forum and the one I use is Satin (not Gloss) Wipe On Poly. It seals, looks great, and can be painted over or applied over paint. Your posts don’t indicate where your from, WOP is commonly available in the US, any hardware store has it. There is a UK version, but I don’t recall what it’s called. 

Just a thought I had after applying the stain. Once the poly is applied you do feel the need to sand a little on your models to get a good bite from the glue?  I figure wood glue may need a little roughness to adhere to, but CA should theoretically bond to anything not actively oily, yes? 
 

best 

tim 

[glbarlow]

I’ve never put stain on a model, not sure how it will react to glue, I’d recommend you do some off model testing.
 

In regards to poly, it doesn’t hurt to do light sanding, but in a tight area or limited access it isn’t essential as long as it’s had ample time to dry. Again, I’d test it by making up samples off the model to be sure. Not all glues are created equal and some hold less if the bottle gets too old. 

[TimC]

16 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I’ve never put stain on a model, not sure how it will react to glue, I’d recommend you do some off model testing.
 

In regards to poly, it doesn’t hurt to do light sanding, but in a tight area or limited access it isn’t essential as long as it’s had ample time to dry. Again, I’d test it by making up samples off the model to be sure. Not all glues are created equal and some hold less if the bottle gets too old. 

I have a whole set of test strips sitting as we speak with various combinations of glue/CA with just stain, just varnish, and both combined.  Just figured I’d ask since you gave great advice last time. I plan to put poly over all of the stain anyway so I’m sure it’ll work out just fine 

 

Thanks !