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  1. Your work is wonderful! I just started an old Hellenic Navy munition ship (Evros, A415) a few days ago, initially just a waterline model but now adding the bottom of the hull too. I will be following your build keenly!
  2. Today I decided to try the hull below the waterline, and see how it turns out. It actually turned out great. I didn't bother with actual sections off the lines plan; instead, I just used a couple of profiles, sandpaper, files and my imagination (I am a Naval Architect by trade, so I can kind of visualise a hull off its lines plan). All balsa, but I split the lower half in two sides and I inserted a 'keel' cut off the profile, to help with the shaping. The model will be on a 'sea' diorama, so I won't bother much more with the bottom of the hull. Anyway! Enjoy the pics!
  3. I always used a plane to taper the masts. I taper the dowels down to the required dimensions, first square, then octagons, then I sand them down to a circle. With a little practice, it is very hard to get this method wrong. You do need a well set-up plane with a very sharp blade though, and it can get messy if there are irregularities in the wood.
  4. Unbelievable detail for the scale! Very well done!
  5. Just started this one, after managing to get my hands on the original yard drawing with the help of an incredibly helpful Frenchman. This is a the build log of HS Evros (pennant number A415) of the Hellenoc (i.e. Greek) Navy. Hull and the major parts made of balsa, with some styrene sheets, copper tubing, stretched sprue, and leftover PE bits from previous builds of Liberty ships and destroyers. The ship started life in the mid 50s as 'Amalthée' (sister ships Enée and Borée), before being purchased by the West German Navy and used as an ammunition ship from the mid 60s till the mid 70s. She was then transfered to the Greeks, where she served till 2009. She spent the 2009-2020 period laid up in Souda Bay, with plenty of photos of her. My dad was her skipper for a couple of years in the mid 80s. Believe it or not, I went on a 3 day trip on her as an 8yo... different days, and I guess nobody would question the skipper 😂 I had a look to see if I could find any good photos of the boat. I was saddened to see that she was used as a missile & torpedo target in the summer of 2020. At least she now rests at sea, where she belongs. I decided to build the model with minimal references. While searching, I got in touch with a Frenchman who happened to know where I could find the original yard drawings. I will post the links later, as there are many mamy more drawings of other ships. Anyway, enjoy! The general arrangement plans, printed to 1:350, with a minesweeper for reference. LoA 80m.
  6. It is likely to be July before my Fly can get outside to play again! I can of course keep building all the little pieces and finish the hull and the masts, then just wait till I am settled in before I install them and rig them up. Meantime, I will be watching your build!
  7. I've been very quiet 😂 I have not lost my modelling mojo, nor have I pressed on with the build and not posted about it. Just a major geographical move now being firmly on the cards, so I think it is best to leave the masts off the boat till she is her new (forever) home! All going well, there will be a mantlepiece over a fireplace!
  8. Hey, great to see you starting it! Regarding showing a waterline but not losing the wood texture, how about a subtly darker shade of stain for the underwater parts? I have no idea how it will look though!
  9. Your first planking is absolutely gorgeous. Keen to see how your build will progress!
  10. It sounds like I was completely off with my assumptions 😂 Thank you for the velocities, with over 2x what I had assumed, it now makes sense that the breeching line would take a serious beating on every shot!
  11. Ok, this is a pretty good video to watch, and it explains how they weighed anchor on HMS Victory. It talks about the messenger line and everything else involved! Apparently, it was a 5-6h job!
  12. The anchor cable had to be very thick to be able to take all the mooring forces, so you probably couldn't put too many turns over a capstan with it. Also, you probably wouldn't want to do that anyway, as it would mean running the cable all the way to the capstan, then to the hold. And -probably the main reason- you would never be able to handle the cable over the stoppers if it was under tension. Instead, they used to run a 'loop' of smaller diameter rope called a 'messenger', looped 3-4 turns over the capstan (for friction) and over to the bow (over a couple of rollers just in front of the manger boards). That piece of rope would run right next to the anchor cable, and it could be tied onto it along several spots to 'connect' the two ropes. You would turn the capstan, keep adding ties along the two ropes as they met, and remove them as the anchor cable was approaching the hole down to the holds. That way, the anchor cable was under no tension once past those ties, so you could handle it easily, turn it over the stoppers etc. I'll try and find a sketch for you, as it would probably explain it much better!
  13. Gorgeous! Any idea what wood the real ones were made of?
  14. I just drilled and filed off 1 square off the mid-ship hatch's grating, at the two fore corners. I will fill and stain the adjacent parts of the gratinf, to make it look like it's not part of the grating but a fixed part of the hatch coaming, and have the rope pass through the hole. It LOOKS like this is the way to go, but still not 100% sure. It appears that this is what it would be for weighing anyway, but I want to show it like it is about to be lowered, which could be different. I realised I should have installed the messenger rope a long time ago. This could be interesting 😂
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