Cutty Sark by rfolsom - Billing Boats

[NenadM]

Thx Bob for advise

 

My poor thing has so strong bulwarks now, that there is no problem to turn her on head. During second planking time, and during painting She was on her head many times, and do not complain. Without any damage of course.

 

In picture above you can see "thickness" of bulwark "walls" I mentioned 

 

 

And I think that in the end this will be pretty good visually masked. I was very astonished when realised that I can mask it. Happy event in the circumstances I am surrounded by

 

 

My idea is to mount rail/dead-eye holders and stanchions under them, to finish second planking of main deck and then to turn Her on head for coopering. All of this details you mentioned are under and below line of strong main rail, so I think there is no danger. Mounting of dead-eyes will come later after coopering. Her dry dock is made of styrofoam with plane surface down, so when I turn her, I then put her on plane surface of dry dock, so She lays still on fore and aft deck parts

 

Of course, She do not like to lay your left hand on her during work

 

See you around and waiting for your progress

Nenad

Edited January 28, 2014 by Nenad M

[NenadM]

And one interesting thing about soldering issue

 

In Belgrade appear mini handy torch for welding with price about 8 € / 10-11$

 

 

It is worth to try and learn

 

I know what I shall ask for my birthday !!!

[rfolsom]

I like your idea, Nenad, and  I would like to find a torch like that..as an electrical engineer, I have no problem soldering wiring and components, etc... But structural soldering is a learning curve for me.....

[rfolsom]

Thank you; Daniel, for the nice words;   I'm working on getting things up and running again..

 

~Bob

[rfolsom]

It's great progress you're making, Nenad;  It seems like everyone stopped (in my other build, too) but you keep going on....

 

Don't worry, I'll join you soon; I have many rivet strips to affix.....

[NenadM]

Sometimes I think ... every single position you touch is in more than 1000 same pieces ( planks, dead-eyes, treenails, 12 waterports outside + 12 inside, 78 white panels, 52 stanchiones, later - 32 sails ( without studding-sails), masts, shackles on masts ....not to forget 12 buckets)  

 

Sometimes repeating can be boooooooring ...   

 

We are happy we do not make Victoria with Her over 100 guns ... with all gun equipment and fittings   

 

See you round, soon, I hope ...

Edited February 5, 2014 by Nenad M

[rfolsom]

I agree totally, Nenad.  I am surprised that I made it through the coppering process without giving up....  Many days of coming home and sitting at the bench, cutting 30-40 tiles, then putting rivets on them, peeling the backing, affixing, etc. etc. 

But it was relaxing, and my mind could wander, and I could put on some music or an old movie and just lose myself...

 

I would never be able to do this in a factory, for weekly wages;  I would probably jump off the roof....

[rfolsom]

I'll be fabricating the freeing port covers out of sheet aluminum, (aluminum cans) with ca affixed hinges made out of the same.  If this is the wrong way to go, please let me know!

Cheers,

 

~Bob

[NenadM]

I agree totally, Nenad.  I am surprised that I made it through the coppering process without giving up....  Many days of coming home and sitting at the bench, cutting 30-40 tiles, then putting rivets on them, peeling the backing, affixing, etc. etc. 

But it was relaxing, and my mind could wander, and I could put on some music or an old movie and just lose myself...

 

I would never be able to do this in a factory, for weekly wages;  I would probably jump off the roof....

 

Do you remember this ?

 

 

On the other side, you can find/make some creativity even in digging holes, or use that moment for wandering thoughts

Edited February 5, 2014 by Nenad M

[NenadM]

I'll be fabricating the freeing port covers out of sheet aluminum, (aluminum cans) with ca affixed hinges made out of the same.  If this is the wrong way to go, please let me know!

Cheers,

 

~Bob

 

 

Bob

 

This is only right way if you want accurate model, no doubt !!!

 

And if you are able to to this, nice, pedant and precisely, go on that way with no dilemma. I am not. Metal works are for me (for now I hope) close as some alien from deep space

 

You work on C-plans scale, and that might be a little problem. Ports are only 6x6 mm  and this little beasts - hinges, are so so so small in that scale (less than 1 mm, rather 0,5 mm) even to make, and ( for me, I hope not for you ) impossible to solder them in anyway. In my scale they are little bigger ( 9x9 mm) , but even then, I had to do them with magnifier 2x, putting 1x2 mm imitation of higens in a right place with a top of needle 

 

I was also thinking about something like that you intend for waterports, and remember that thoughts when I discovered that bulwarks are made of metal sheets, and told myself, this is just right thing to do

 

But then I get my soldering iron (to big for precise work), and find myself as a very little clumsily baby in world of soldering, so I gave up. Blubs/droplets stay blubs/droplets and go where them want, little parts run away as them want, iron pick up everything it touches, aluminium has his own will, and I didnt know ( still do not) nothing about soldering technology ( not to forget, I am stupid attorney). Then start thinking about can sheet and glue ...  and there arise question about - what type of glue, how to apply precisely, and how to do clean work on space less than 1x2 mm . So, having in mind that I had no other solution, and time for water-ports come, I decide to make them of wood, which is more familiar to me. And all must be painted, so there is no big difference except you watch model with magnifier. Maybe in another life, and in another model.

 

Right thing is to make bulwarks of Iron/Alu sheets, and also waterports. That will sure resolve problem of strenght of bulwarks. But, how to connect this to wood structure ? Have you tools for that job ? Have you enough skill ? How to paint this thing on way to have black and white colour same on this and on near wooden parts? How to assume to be seen that it is made of metal ?

 

People do this, but they are real champs. See this link (if you dare) 

 

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.760361680665244&type=1

 

Works of Croatian champion Roland Vlahović. Incredible wooden and soldering works

 

But, as you are familiar with soldering, please try and go with this solution

 

I am still bangin myself about tehnology how to make stanchions.

 

So, try, play a little, and if it fits  your expects, go on, cause you are definitely on a right way

 

Nenad

Edited February 5, 2014 by Nenad M

[keelhauled]

Bob, you might want to use epoxy to affix the hinges instead of CA.  I haven't been too impressed gluing metal to metal with CA.  But maybe I just have bad luck or I'm too rough.  Don't forget to score the surfaces!  Makes a huge difference.

 

Take care,

Marc

[rfolsom]

Nenad;  I am not familiar with soldering!  I can solder through-hole electrical devices on a PCB, but not structural components...  Working with metal is an entirely new learning curve for me in this hobby.

 

Marc;  I had success in my initial tries with CA on aluminum.  However, I believe the Al (from cans) is coated with some sort of polymer that might help the bonding of the CA.  I'm sure epoxy is a better way to go, especially with pristine metal surfaces.  I have never used epoxy (yet) but my father used it all the time before the days of CA. His hobby was O-gauge steam locomotives, so more metal work..

[DSiemens]

Rfolsom,

 

  I've just started using epoxy and I've found to be really nice once you figure out how to keep it from getting all over the place. 

[rfolsom]

Nenad; I just re-read your post (#229) and actually my scale is 1:76.8, so I have to scale up Campbell's plans by 166.67% which makes my freeing ports 10mm.

 

Daniel;  I'm just going to have to buy some epoxy and start the experimentation process..

[NenadM]

Bob

 

Something is wrong, somebody`s measuring is not correct, or I do not know my actually scale

 

In my C-plans, re-scaled to my CS, whole model seems to be bigger than your scale

 

Here are results of measuring in Adobe acrobat (re-scaled plans)

 

First - freeing port - result is 0,7 x 0,7 mm

 

 

Second -  to compare scale - some reference points

 

 

On other side, I did not notice visual difference in My CS of freeing ports comparing to pictures of Her - look from outside - their position and size

 

????

Edited February 10, 2014 by Nenad M

[rfolsom]

Nenad;  From centerline of mizzen mast to centerline of main mast on my actual build, it is 21.3 cm.  On campbells plans it is 12.7 cm.  Campells scale is 3/32" = 1 foot.  Mine is 5/32" = 1 foot.  I multiply all distances (on plans) by 1.66667 to get my actual build plans.  I did not have a scale on my kit, and spent several days measuring pre-cut parts and comparing them to my campell's plans to find my actual scale, before I commenced building. At 1:96 scale, your build would be 0.8 times my build, and the mizzen to main centerline distance should be right at 17 cm.

 

Hope this helps..

 

Bob

 

PS, What is your actual centerline distance between mizzen and main masts?

Edited February 10, 2014 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

Nenad;  going over Lou's construction details for the CS, His references say the ports are actually 32.5" x 26.5", which is 10.75mm x 8.75mm at my scale, and at your scale (1:96) it would be 8.6 mm x 7 mm, which seems pretty close....

[NenadM]

 

 

PS, What is your actual centerline distance between mizzen and main masts?

 

Bob, looking at the mess I made on main deck, I noticed that holes for masts I drilled long ago by TEHNODIDACTA plans are questionable by their position. So, when re-plankin time for main deck comes, I have to carefully check it out, and to eventually put holes on right place. So, I can not answer to your question.

[rfolsom]

I've finally made some (small) progress on the build.  Progress meaning actually affixing parts to the ship, and not just playing around with aluminum cans.

 

After several days of cutting thin (0.5 - 3.0 mm) strips of aluminum, and embossing these with a ponce wheel, I finally decided to actually start fitting some of the better looking ones to the ship, starting with the inboard sheer strake to bulkhead riveting, and then the vertical reinforcements around the freeing ports.  One inboard port is done.

[popeye the sailor]

that's some pretty cool detail..........with a plastic build,  this bit of detail would be molded in.   these ports have never been done on a plastic kit........or any kit that I've seen.........so this is a very big plus!   very nice work! 

[NenadM]

Well done, Bob. I really like it. Much better than me

 

Happy to see you again working

[rfolsom]

Thanks for the positive input, gentlemen;

 

Thanks again to Nenad for helping my laziness in adding details. 

 

I'm not putting as much time as I'd like into the build right now, but I am making slow (SLOOOW....) progress.  (Slow progress is still progress, right?)

 

What I found surprisingly cool is that adding these aluminum rivet strips around the freeing ports is making my thin 1/32" basswood bulwarks noticeably stronger, as when I added the stanchions.

 

Starboard side rivet strake is laid, and verticals along the outside of the first three freeing ports are done, as well as some of the rivet panels behind the stanchions.

[dgbot]

Looking good.  That little addition changes evrything.

David B

[NenadM]

Yes, this is it !!!

 

Veeeeery weeeeeel done !

 

Go on please. Laziness is contagious, so I am afraid to catch it   

Edited February 18, 2014 by Nenad M

[popeye the sailor]

NICE!!!   and you left more than enough room for the pin rails............looking good! 

[rfolsom]

Thanks for the positive input, my friends;  I am hoping things look ok when painted...

 

~Bob

[NenadM]

What kind of paint do you use, Bob ?

 

I use two type of acrylic white, and it is semi transparent ( ? ), so must do 2-3 layers.

[rfolsom]

Nenad;  I have been using Model Expo's acrylics, but I have been less than satisfied.... I may need to water them down and apply many thin coats...  This is something I'll have to face very soon.  As I told my friends at my other build:  ("It looks like dried mud on a tree trunk")

[NenadM]

That seems to be general problem with white acrylic

[dgbot]

White acrylic is a hard colr to use I have never found one that ia perfect

Davis B