USS Constitution by histprof1066 - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1:100

[histprof1066]

6 hours ago, JSGerson said:

Welcome to the world of model ship building. It's invariable that kit parts are not accurate, not provided, poorly made, etc. As a result, you end up making your own details and gaining skills along the way. Things like blocks, miniature rope, eyebolts, rings, and other rigging items I sometimes purchase from third party suppliers, or if that fails, attempt to make them myself. Knowing what something is suppose to look like is a tremendous help so I have a vast library of images I've accumulated of the years, of nautical details, as well as books, and "how-to" articles I've gleamed from other build logs from which I can follow. There is a lot of stuff on YouTube too.

 

If I were to make the chain plates, I might use thin copper or brass plate, cut into strips. At those thicknesses, a pair of sturdy scissors or a stout knife and rule could do the job. Then punch the necessary holes with an awl, nail, or heavy needle; smooth out the hole edges, and bend to shape. Finally, use some blackening agent on the metal. Paint is too thick and doesn't look right.

 

As for the color of the carriages, they are red not orange. I don't know the official color name but I would call it "redwood furniture" red. The bright sun affects the color in the images.

 

BTW, I'm still learning too.

I have seen your model, and you have a good deal bigger skill set than I do at present. I had been thinking about ways to make pieces and how I can get the needed parts for the gun carriages and doing the math, I will need about 150 more eye bolts and about 200 blocks. I’ll mull over what I can get with supply issues being what they are with COVID. Thanks for your vote of confidence and support! 

[histprof1066]

Good early morning,

 

I have not had a ton of progress in the shipyard but I have had progress nevertheless. According to the BB instructions, I am to fit the faux cannons and ports onto the ship, along with the cannonade and such. So far, I have completed the port side faux cannons and starboard has but one cannon remaining. I am painting the cannonade, and seriously considering not hand painting the 22 cannon sleds, but using a spray paint. I can see where an airbrush comes in handy for sure lol. Anyway, maybe for Christmas eh?

 

Here are a couple of photos showing the faux cannons on port and starboard. Mind you that maybe 4 total cannon on port are not aligned properly - I am still learning…by the time I got to the starboard side though, you can see everything is aligned properly. Please let me know what you think. 
 

As well, I am wondering the best way to change the colour of the rigging thread. I have read other places on this forum to use minwax for the colour. Has anybody used this route and can share some tips? I am also looking for a colour for the running rigging thread that won’t look golden - since golden oak is the most suggested colour mixed with something else. 
 

Again, I appreciate your help. 
 

[histprof1066]

Good evening,

 

I have made some progress onboard the ship in the past week. I have only had a few days to work on the vessel, and will have limited time going forward after this next week - school starting back up. Anyway, I have completed the faux cannon, installed them with the shutters, made and installed the deck cannonade with the help of some of our forum members providing photos. I have also completed the ballistic netting that goes on the rail above the cannon. 
 

I must say that in the kit, the diagram only gives a general understood how to put something together, and I really like specifics. I have been told other models are the same way - but meh, I made do with attaching the netting by finding photos of the in house model and the historic ship. 
 

The hull is almost complete, the only things I have left to work on besides the masts and rigging (as if that is so quick and easy eh?) would be the crafting of the life boats (which use sail cloth for tarpaulin so I am putting this step off until I make the sails). Besides this, I have the anchors, which will need to be constructed and fitted after the rigging to make life much simpler, and the installation of the vessel’s ladder, affixed midship on the exterior of the hull. Once the ladders are done, I literally can start working on the masts. 
 

Couple of questions though, should I begin rigging the bowsprit before the foremast is constructed or should I wait until I step the masts? Also, when I am dyeing the thread (which I figure using minwax would be okay - I have espresso gel stain already…water based so I don’t have to use solvent!!! Woo hoo!), should I keep the thread from moving whilst drying or dye a bit, let part dry, and then come back to it and move it? As well, when should I apply beeswax or some other conservator wax after the staining? Again, thank you for your help. 
 

I am including some photos of my build progress, I hope it is good - enjoy!

[JSGerson]

You used the term “ballistic netting” That netting is used to hold the crews’ hammocks for airing when not in battle and as a shrapnel barrier during battle. So, I suppose the term “ballistic netting is somewhat correct.

Take a look at Post 224  Robnbill’s  Mamolli Build 1:93 scale (close to Billings Boat 1:100) to see how it looks when filled.

 

As for order of rigging, that is a matter of personal preference and skill. I’ve only done one other square-rigged ship, the Rattlesnake (which you can use the link in my signature) and I followed the theory of rigging the ship as it would have been done for real. In that case, I partially rigged the bowsprit at its base first, then moved next to the mast steps from the fore mast, back to the mizzen, rigging those portions of the masts. Then to the next mast step up, interconnecting the mast as required etc. I was trying to work from closest to the mast outward towards the bulwarks to have the least amount of rigging interference.

 

Other builders build their mast completely off ship to have the maximum access to all the nooks and crannies. They assemble all three steps and place as much stuff onto the mast they possible can before installing the mast as a unit onto the model. This creates a lot of loose rigging hanging from the masts which must be meticulously tracked and not get them tangled.

 

 In both cases the yard arms were built off ship. I left mine loose held in place as would they be on an actual ship. Others pin the yards to the mast. Some people work stern to stem, some stem to stern. There is no “right” or “wrong” way. How am I going to rig my Conny? Probably some combination of all methods.

[histprof1066]

On 7/28/2022 at 9:50 AM, JSGerson said:

You used the term “ballistic netting” That netting is used to hold the crews’ hammocks for airing when not in battle and as a shrapnel barrier during battle. So, I suppose the term “ballistic netting is somewhat correct.

Take a look at Post 224  Robnbill’s  Mamolli Build 1:93 scale (close to Billings Boat 1:100) to see how it looks when filled.

 

As for order of rigging, that is a matter of personal preference and skill. I’ve only done one other square-rigged ship, the Rattlesnake (which you can use the link in my signature) and I followed the theory of rigging the ship as it would have been done for real. In that case, I partially rigged the bowsprit at its base first, then moved next to the mast steps from the fore mast, back to the mizzen, rigging those portions of the masts. Then to the next mast step up, interconnecting the mast as required etc. I was trying to work from closest to the mast outward towards the bulwarks to have the least amount of rigging interference.

 

Other builders build their mast completely off ship to have the maximum access to all the nooks and crannies. They assemble all three steps and place as much stuff onto the mast they possible can before installing the mast as a unit onto the model. This creates a lot of loose rigging hanging from the masts which must be meticulously tracked and not get them tangled.

 

 In both cases the yard arms were built off ship. I left mine loose held in place as would they be on an actual ship. Others pin the yards to the mast. Some people work stern to stem, some stem to stern. There is no “right” or “wrong” way. How am I going to rig my Conny? Probably some combination of all methods.

 

 

In completing the netting, I am satisfied with the look, though I may or may not include hammocks. Nowhere in the actual parts does it tell me what the netting was for, so I had to conclude. Anyway, I agree that I will probably need to work on the bowsprit rigging a little but only after I complete the assembly of the masts (need to taper the dowels, paint, and then construct). I was thinking that it would be a lot easier to attach the sails while the masts are flat on a table, but am wondering how that may get in the way of rigging. especially when working on the shrouds and such. I have gotten a book and been reading about how to go about some of the rigging, but it seems with the sails added into the mix its a balancing act about which area to progress and when lol. Should I just wait until the masts have been stepped before attaching the sails on the yards? 

[JSGerson]

I have never installed sails as I have only completed one square rigged ship. My logic, with no experience to back this up, tells me to add the sails after all of the standing rigging is done. It's called standing rigging, because that is what is left when the sails are down. If there are any required blocks and other do-hickys (that's a technical term) needed for the sails that could be installed prior to the sails, those should be pre-installed.

Here's something to think about, you could install furled sails instead of the full blown sails (that's a play on words🙂). It would allow the viewer to see more of the ship's details but still have all of the running rigging. Think hard about what material you are going to use for the sails. Any cloth will be out of scale. The cloth will be too thick and maybe too stiff, the cloth weave too big, and any actual stitching on the sails, too large. I've seen model makers use fine cloth, silk, tissue paper (kind used on flying balsawood framed planes), and even thin formed plastic. It's all a matter of effect and the skill to pull if off.

[histprof1066]

On 7/29/2022 at 1:16 PM, JSGerson said:

I have never installed sails as I have only completed one square rigged ship. My logic, with no experience to back this up, tells me to add the sails after all of the standing rigging is done. It's called standing rigging, because that is what is left when the sails are down. If there are any required blocks and other do-hickys (that's a technical term) needed for the sails that could be installed prior to the sails, those should be pre-installed.

Here's something to think about, you could install furled sails instead of the full blown sails (that's a play on words🙂). It would allow the viewer to see more of the ship's details but still have all of the running rigging. Think hard about what material you are going to use for the sails. Any cloth will be out of scale. The cloth will be too thick and maybe too stiff, the cloth weave too big, and any actual stitching on the sails, too large. I've seen model makers use fine cloth, silk, tissue paper (kind used on flying balsawood framed planes), and even thin formed plastic. It's all a matter of effect and the skill to pull if off.

Thanks for the suggestion, I wanted to do full sail instead of furled sails, the material they sent is a type of rough cotton weave or something though it doesn’t look like a broadcloth weave. The material is the same as what I have on my last model so it looks fine but the scale is 1:75 I think…would the change in scale from 1:75 to 1:100 cause much of a difference you think?

 

p.S.: I like the technical term lol. 

[JSGerson]

As I mentioned, I have no experience with square rigged sails. That being a given, going from 1:75 to 1:100 is a big difference (to me at least). Take a micrometer, and measure the thickness of the sail cloth and figure out what the scale thickness is. If it sounds reasonable, then use it. But, if scales to something like 2" thick sails, for example) I'd think about using something else. A thought just came to me. If you look at real sails, they are semi-transparent; you can see the shadows of the masts through them. What if you use grocery store plastic bag material. I mean the kind groceries are put it as you go through checkout. They are semi-transparent,  very thin & flexible for the scale, strong, and some come in a light beigse canvas color, and you can glue parts together. Just a thought.

[histprof1066]

Thanks for the idea, I will see if I can note a difference between the thickness of the sail material. Most of the sail material  have seen in the kits I have experience with are always not thin enough to see the mast shadow. 

[histprof1066]

So it has been a while since my last update to my ship construction, I have since been able to construct the foremast, mainmast, and half way through the mizzenmast. It does not seem like a lot but considering the sheer amount of detail work, sanding, and painting, it is a bit rough being dad to a new baby and working full time. I have also installed the ship’s ladders for boarding at mid-ships. Once I have completed the mizzenmast, I still have the yardarms on the main and mizzenmast to sand down and paint. All be told, that ought to take me about 3-4 hours with paint drying (I hope to be honest). I have hand painted the masts and the trim where it is possible. 
 

Here are some pictures of my latest work. 

Edited August 31, 2022 by histprof1066

[histprof1066]

It has been a while since I last went and updated this page. I wanted to catch you up where I am in the construction process. It has taken a long time to get the standing rigging completed - I am still working on it. I have one more mast to go (after I complete ratlines on the main mast). Then the real fun begins with the yard arms and the like. I have had to paint/stain the cordage sent by the model company, and I almost wish that they had sent other cordage or I had gone out and bought my own. Living here in the states, it is a bit difficult to find metric sized cording in colors I need unless I go online and shop overseas. I am attaching the work I have done and I am currently working on the ratlines on the main mast. Once that is done, I will be moving onto the mizzenmast. 

 

You can see from the photos the details I have needed to paint around, how I have installed the deadeyes, how I worked out doing the ratlines, a couple of glamour shots, and the last photo (as I see it uploading) will see the ship as it is. I do not have a white wall in this room that will be clear. as to what the lines look like, I do apologize. I shall have that when I complete my model. 

[histprof1066]

I have made some progress toward the completion of the model. While I have not done what seems like a lot, I have run quite a few mines, and manually painted them all. I promised better photos, and I have one against a light wall. After the work you see in the photo, I have the upper shrouds to install, paint, rattle down, and then I can stain the white threads a light brown to simulate hemp. Though I like the white color. 

 

What is your opinion of the brown versus the white? I mean how far off will the color be at that point?

 

 

[histprof1066]

I am finally ready to ‘rattle down’ on the mizzenmast. I have gotten some helpful suggestions on what to do next and I appreciate the assistance! 
 

[histprof1066]

I have finally finished rattling down as it were. On the mizzenmast, there are somewhere in the neighborhood of 40 lines total on port, another 40 on starboard. I am so tired of ratlines.

 

Now that I have everything installed, the next step I am told is to make sure the ratlines are darkened to a hemp color. The only way I have to do that is to stain it with a water based oak color. It will come out about the color of the deck. I’m not sure if it will be too dark though. I have included a picture of the deck so that you can compare and let me know what you think.

 

 

[histprof1066]

I have taken a couple of days to stain the thread. It is a bit darker than I was hoping for it to be, though when I see pictures of hemp rope, it has been anything from darker brown to almost white - from bleaching I can assume. I used a small brush with water based stain. I’m not the best with a brush, so to make sure I got the stain off of the shrouds, I dabbed the excess off with a sponge brush. It also gave segments a more uneven/natural look to the ratlines in my opinion.
 

Next, I’m finally on to the yardarms/running rigging. I can’t wait! If I see another deadeye or ratline, I think my eyes will stay permanently crossed. No, the question is: Do I start at the bottom and work up or the reverse?

 

Does anybody have any suggestion on that end?

I am including photos of the yard arms I tapered in the drill, and a few shots of the completed work so far, and an up close shot to show detail of the ratlines. 

 

[Nearshore]

Very nice work. She is looking good. 

[histprof1066]

It has been a few days since my last update. I have made four anchors, installed the starboard side, and begun working on the lifeboats. I’m not sure entirely if I want to paint the chain I added for the anchor. It adds a bit of colour to the bow. 
 

 

[JSGerson]

I noticed the fine detail work on the trailboard and was wondering how you got such nice results. I had a devil of a time making mine at 1:76.8 scale and your model is even smaller at 1:100 scale. The paint work is fabulous. That must of taken a very fine brush and a very steady hand. Well done!

[histprof1066]

14 hours ago, JSGerson said:

I noticed the fine detail work on the trailboard and was wondering how you got such nice results. I had a devil of a time making mine at 1:76.8 scale and your model is even smaller at 1:100 scale. The paint work is fabulous. That must of taken a very fine brush and a very steady hand. Well done!

Thank you

 

The trailboard was part decal from the manufacturer and my work. I added a few embellishments though I cannot take credit for a chunk of it. Every other item has been hand painted.

 

Now, I am having a devil of a time planking the lifeboats...just got the balsa installed on them to fill the gaps between bulkheads, and shaved down with a multi tool. 

Edited March 15, 2023 by histprof1066
grammar

[histprof1066]

I’m finally finishing off the lifeboats. I finished off the anchors and the like in my last posting, and I have but only one lifeboat planked, painted, and rigged on the hull. What do you think of the the work?
 

The building schematic was mum on how the lifeboats are supposed to be attached. The in house model pictures have a completely different fitting - not shipped with the kit. I improvised and this is what I came up with. All be told, I am happy with the results. 
 

 

[histprof1066]

Finished the lifeboats/launches for the model today, already on to stropping the blocks for the foremast. I have 3 of the 4 completed, just need to complete the assembly for all masts, and then I can attach blocks to the masts before making the sails, and affixing them to the yard arms.

 

 

does anybody have any tips on making the sails? I have laid the sail cloth flat, and am planning on leaving a 5mm edge around the sail area to hem. I specifically would love to know anything about the work on corners, and reef point simulation. Thank you in advance for your assistance. 

[histprof1066]

Good evening,

 

I have done some work, though I haven’t finished the sails. It has been slow going with the wife having surgery and all. I have gotten all of the blocks attached to the yard arms and the masts. All I really need to do in order to continue is work on the sails.

 

I’m thinking of using pencil to lightly make the marks on the fabric (as pencil can be erased) and tracing on top of the paper template. 
 

Once they have been traced, cut and use a watered down white glue solution to keep the edges from fraying until I can get the sails sewn. 
 

I would like to try my hand at billowing sails, what do you all use to get them to billow? I have researched white glue mixed with water…but… what do I lay them over to create a good form?

 

 

[histprof1066]

Started working in earnest on the sails. I figured that my sewing skills are not the best. Straight lines I can do for the main portion of the sails. However, that being said, I definitely cannot hem a straight line at the edge of a sail.

 

 

So…enter the fabric adhesive.

 

 

I was only able to cut out two jib sails, hot iron the hem folds so they’ll be easier to work with, and complete the gems on one sail. Granted, I only was working on it for an hour and a half, it is still a good amount of progress. I’m sure it will speed up once I have all of the sails cut out and ironed, but it’s a good start. 

 

 

I’m using a fabric adhesive that is flexible, dries clear, but smells like rubber cement while in its liquid form. The results speak for themselves. What do you think? 

[JSGerson]

Your jib sails are very neat and clean. Well done.

 

You have constructed your model a whole lot faster me. I started in 2017 and five years later, I have still not completed the hull. Of course, my Model Shipway kit is a larger scale at 1:76.8 (more detail) and I decided to add the gun deck to my model. So, I have not reached the point where I have to make the decision whether or not to rig the model with sails. The only boat I've ever added sails to was the Evergreen (my 1st wooden model) which you can see in the little image I use as my identifier to the left of my comments, so I don't have a lot experience making them  That being said, the reason I haven't made that decision is scale. When you scale down the thickness of the sail material which isn't thick to begin with, it's almost gossamer thin and semi transparent and I've had difficulty finding modeling material to emulate that. Just about every model with sails has dealt with that by ignoring the scale and gone for the appearance. You are doing a fine job in that department. I look forward to your next post.

[histprof1066]

25 minutes ago, JSGerson said:

Your jib sails are very neat and clean. Well done.

 

You have constructed your model a whole lot faster me. I started in 2017 and five years later, I have still not completed the hull. Of course, my Model Shipway kit is a larger scale at 1:76.8 (more detail) and I decided to add the gun deck to my model. So, I have not reached the point where I have to make the decision whether or not to rig the model with sails. The only boat I've ever added sails to was the Evergreen (my 1st wooden model) which you can see in the little image I use as my identifier to the left of my comments, so I don't have a lot experience making them  That being said, the reason I haven't made that decision is scale. When you scale down the thickness of the sail material which isn't thick to begin with, it's almost gossamer thin and semi transparent and I've had difficulty finding modeling material to emulate that. Just about every model with sails has dealt with that by ignoring the scale and gone for the appearance. You are doing a fine job in that department. I look forward to your next post.

Good morning,

 

Thank you very much for your praise. I only added a few details to the kit that wasn’t already there. Their house model doesn’t have a good amount of sail detail, so I plan on improving that for practice ahead of my next model. What better way than to go ahead and try on something that doesn’t exist?

 

I appreciate your encouragement, it is hard to keep going when it feels like such a large task, and I have a couple of hours every few days to do work. I’ll keep you guys posted on my progress, and appreciate your comments. 
 

I have been following your work also, and I have to say your work is much more intricate than mine. I can understand and empathize with the pace of progress. Have a good day sir. 

[histprof1066]

Good evening,

 

It’s been a few days, haven’t been able to work as I had been doing. Though with that being said, I have completed hemming on 6 of the 14 sails for the model. Once the hemming is done, I plan to see the vertical bands on the sails, and then begin on the reef points, still debating on doing the beckets, sewing them around the outside. 
 

What have you all done at the 1:100 scale? Has anybody done sails that way using the heavier cloth as I am using? 
 

I have attached some photos of my current work. 

[histprof1066]

Finally started sewing. I was able to finish the hemming on all 14 sails, and now…the sewing of straight lines. I am quite out of practice, and you do not want to know how many times I had to pull out stitches in order to get my first jib sail looking like this. One down, a baker’s dozen more to go. I chose a natural colour thread or off white/cream to be less noticeable against the sails in display. I’m not sure if this was quite spec, but I like the look. The underside isn’t perfect, but a little white glue here and tucking of thread there, and nobody will notice. I think it’s the machine tension or my hands being out of practice. What do you think?

 

 

[histprof1066]

I finally completed hemming and sewing the strips on all 14 sails. I also had to work on the rear stitching of the sails. Finally, I have begun working on affixing the sails to the yard arms. Once that is completed, I can begin rigging the sails to the ship one mast at a time. Included are the sails, had to take the photo at a distance to get them all in one go, and today’s work. 

[histprof1066]

Took me quite a bit of time to put the sails on tin the last couple of days. I know now that I should not put yard arms on until after I have attached the sails. Also, I realized I hadn’t put a line on the rear pin rail, and it took me looking at the mast schematic, the above view, and stern view to figure out how to attach the line. 

 

Side note: it seems the BB house model has all of the lines I have placed as black standing rigging thread. I sure hope this was an oversight as every other model brand and photo also of the historic ship shows my current lines as untarred lines (not to mention also that it makes sense not to tar the lines going to the pin rail). 

 

 

Once I place the top most sail on, I shall set the bottoms of the sails and they’ll look fabulous…I mean they look good now…but once I place them at a rakish angle, and place the jib sails on…it’ll look smashing! 

What are your thoughts? 

[histprof1066]

Finally got all four sails on the foremast, now to tack the sail bottoms to the yard arms, whilst also positioning the yard arms to move the sails to port/starboard/neutral. I have already tacked the fore mainsail and topsail. Hopefully, I shall be able to tackle the remaining two tomorrow (using a manual sewing needle to go through the canvas material is slow work). 
 

 

What I decided on at least for the foremast is for a neutral positioning of the yard arms instead of port or starboard in an effort to show off more of the rigging/ ratlines. Also…I figure that should I have to move the ship from a display in one direction, it will be easy to turn it the other direction without looking funky. This is true should direct sunlight reach the paint.

 

 

Took me a while to figure out what I’m doing (first mast is always the hardest). Now that I have a better idea of what to do and how to do it, I figure it will go a bit quicker and more smoothly. 

 

I am attaching a couple of photos, please bear in mind that this is my first square rigged model ship, and not everything is as detailed/professionally done as it ought to be.