HMS Bounty by AdamA - 1:48

[rtwpsom2]

6 hours ago, AdamA said:

It was funny because I had to remake the Gripe ha.

No sense griping about it. 😆

[AdamA]

She's taking shape.

[AdamA]

I sanded the outer sections before I attach the inner pieces so I can add the rabbet along the curve and keel more easily.

[AdamA]

I added the false keel pieces and the simulated tar as well, then sanded and polished everything.

[AdamA]

Cutting in the Rabbet

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

The stern post and transom deadwood are attached to the keel and the angled rabbit has been cut into the stern.

 

The next step is the copper fish mending plate that is bolted into the sternpost and keel.

[AdamA]

I added the copper mending plate McKay noted in his keel drawings. ⅘

[AdamA]

Moving on to the seven transoms, I notice the plans from Hahn have a larger and more pronounced shape than McKay's. I've decided to use McKay's number and shape of transoms but slightly enlarged to fit Hahn's overall size because it is sexier.

[AdamA]

I attempted some bolts through the fish plate. I may redo it t.omorrow 

[AdamA]

Redo!

[AdamA]

I bought copper in every form to try to simulate the copper plate. I think I'm on attempt 5.

[AdamA]

Ive got the McKay drawings sized correctly. I'm doing the transoms today.

[AdamA]

I enlarged the McKay drawing that will rest below the model for the rest of the build.

[AdamA]

Next I'm carving out the bearding lines. I used the Dremel first, then a 1 inch chisel, then a small file, then several tiny chisels and then scrapers to level everything out.

[AdamA]

The boarding line is very close to the plank rabbett. That makes me nervous when I'm cutting.

[AdamA]

The rabbet gets close to the bearding line but a sliver of pear survived.

[Niklas]

Very nice. Following your build with great interest! 
Niklas 

[AdamA]

After I cut out the seven transom pieces I sanded them all to the correct thickness with Byrne's thickness sander. Then, overnight and while wet, I put them all in this jig to give them a slight downward curve. I decided to bend them instead of sanding them to save pear wood.

[AdamA]

Here they are after a few copper bolts but before sanding.

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

The old girl needed some reinforcements between the transoms after the first round of sanding. These will be sanded down level with the seven pieces.

[allanyed]

Adam,  This is one of the nicest Bounty models I have seen here.   

 

One option for the next time you have to bend a transom or anything else that is thicker than a plank or even if edge bending a plank, you might want to  consider heating the wet piece once it is fixed in a jig.   Chuck Passaro gives a good amount of detail on setting up a jig, and it is a relatively easy thing to do.  It leaves room to heat the wet bent wood with a small travel iron.  In some cases where the parts are really small, I use a clean flat head tip on my solder gun to heat the wood.  Just need to be a bit careful not to scorch the wood.  The heat will fix the curve in place and save a lot of wait time compared to air drying which may not hold as well as the heat is a key element in the bending.

  

Edited April 2, 2021 by allanyed

[AdamA]

This will be all three fashion pieces. I tried making them individually but I dont have the geometry talent for all those angles and planes.

[AdamA]

Thanks for the tip @allanyed. This is my first scratch build (which would be impossible without this helpful crew).

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

I'm posting all my steps (even the ugly ones).