AdamA Posted January 9, 2022 Author Share #121 Posted January 9, 2022 A bit more sanding is needed but these hawse frames are much better than the original set I built. yvesvidal, Gregory, chris watton and 8 others 10 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share #122 Posted January 12, 2022 The starboard hawse frames are mostly finished. The port side is just starting to come together. I used a Microlux table saw with the blade at the proper angle to cut four parallel slots into the block that will eventually be sanded down to the first cant frames. Its not pretty at the beginning but it guarantees a proper fit in those joints. popash42, Keith Black, allanyed and 6 others 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 13, 2022 Author Share #123 Posted January 13, 2022 This will be frame 8 port side. Keith Black, popash42, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted January 13, 2022 Share #124 Posted January 13, 2022 Just a thought when assembling the futtocks and floor and such.... When I print out the individual frames, I print one on label paper which will be cut into pieces and stuck on the pre-thicknessed pieces of wood and a second print out on plain paper. When assembling and gluing, it is done on top of the plain paper copy so I know that they are perfectly aligned. Allan GrandpaPhil, yvesvidal, mtaylor and 5 others 8 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 14, 2022 Author Share #125 Posted January 14, 2022 Here's another progress pic of the aft of the hawse frames. I see a lot of people prefer to build them on the stem but I found it easier to get the angles to meet on all the joints if I can place them on my tools. Keith Black, GrandpaPhil, popash42 and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 14, 2022 Author Share #126 Posted January 14, 2022 (edited) 21 hours ago, allanyed said: Just a thought when assembling the futtocks and floor and such.... When I print out the individual frames, I print one on label paper which will be cut into pieces and stuck on the pre-thicknessed pieces of wood and a second print out on plain paper. When assembling and gluing, it is done on top of the plain paper copy so I know that they are perfectly aligned. Allan Funny you should mention it because the frame I made in the picture above came out all wrong lol. It had too much curve somehow. I straightened it overnight in a vice. I'm going to use your method on the next one. Edited January 14, 2022 by AdamA mtaylor and Keith Black 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted January 14, 2022 Share #127 Posted January 14, 2022 (edited) Please post your results and let us know how it goes. I am adding another photo we show in the Euryalus book and is a step I still often use. The blocks are scrap steel cutoffs that I got from a local machine shop for free many years ago and are still quite useful. There are pieces of scrap wood that you can see in the photo so the steel blocks stay flat on the futtocks. Allan Edited January 15, 2022 by allanyed GrandpaPhil, dvm27, AdamA and 3 others 6 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 14, 2022 Author Share #128 Posted January 14, 2022 (edited) I'm using the faired sacrificial first set of frames to give me the correct shape for the new frames. Since I'm doing this all with pencil and paper, instead of with computer aided design, most of my original frames had the chocks and scarfs either off centered or faired away altogether. This time they should all end up pretty close to perfectly centered. Also, all the joint lines will flow down the hull correctly from frame to frame this time. I might have to start using a computer for my next ship. Edited January 14, 2022 by AdamA Keith Black, mtaylor, dvm27 and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 14, 2022 Author Share #129 Posted January 14, 2022 2 hours ago, allanyed said: Please post your results and let us know how it goes. I am adding another photo we show in the Euryalus book and is step I still often use. The blocks are scrap steel cutoffs that I got from a local machine shop for free many years ago and are still quite useful. There are pieces of scrap wood that you can see in the photo so the steel blocks stay flat on the futtocks. Allan You can see the port side frame that i had to clamp overnight glued onto the aft side of those unsanded hawse frames I posted. mtaylor and Keith Black 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share #130 Posted January 17, 2022 There are a few minor scratches I'm going to fix but otherwise these are much cleaner than the first set. popash42, Keith Black, VTHokiEE and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share #131 Posted January 17, 2022 I used this page of McKay as well as the overhead view of the frames for the angles. scrubbyj427, mtaylor and Keith Black 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share #132 Posted January 17, 2022 I absolutely this Japanese pull saw. It is extremely easy to make straight cuts down into frames for stanchions. Keith Black, scrubbyj427, WalrusGuy and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 21, 2022 Author Share #133 Posted January 21, 2022 I added the two tall stanchions to the hawse timbers. mtaylor, WalrusGuy, Keith Black and 3 others 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share #134 Posted January 22, 2022 I ripped all the rest of my first big board into quite a few thin boards for the frames. I have one big board of Swiss Pear drying. mtaylor, yvesvidal and Keith Black 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 23, 2022 Author Share #135 Posted January 23, 2022 popash42, scrubbyj427, Keith Black and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 23, 2022 Author Share #136 Posted January 23, 2022 The cant frame pieces are roughed out. mtaylor, popash42, scrubbyj427 and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 24, 2022 Author Share #137 Posted January 24, 2022 I rough cut the scarf joints and chock joints on the band saw, careful not to get too close to the paper. I take each one to the bench vice for making the final cuts with my chisels and sanding block and razor saw. Keith Black, scrubbyj427, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 26, 2022 Author Share #138 Posted January 26, 2022 Frame 9. mtaylor, Keith Black, popash42 and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 27, 2022 Author Share #139 Posted January 27, 2022 Keith Black, popash42, Dave_E and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted January 28, 2022 Share #140 Posted January 28, 2022 These look good. They are obviously overly heavy regarding the moulded dimension, as they should be, to allow fairing, but you might want to reduce the moulded dimension a little more before erecting the frames. The fairing can be done either way, but as the top timber moulded dimension is probably in the neighborhood of 4" at the top, maybe get it down to something a little closer before setting them in place. Whatever works best for you is the way to go, but I have done it both ways and find the less fairing needed the more I like it. Continuing to enjoy your log, thanks for sharing. Allan Keith Black, mtaylor, dvm27 and 1 other 4 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share #141 Posted January 30, 2022 They will all be much thinner by half. These were sanded with a course drum first. Here's a few more. Gregory, VTHokiEE, popash42 and 1 other 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share #142 Posted January 30, 2022 I decided to correct the length of the keel by 10 inches. I disassembled the keel and made a slightly longer third section. mtaylor, Keith Black, scrubbyj427 and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share #143 Posted January 31, 2022 The keel and false keel need to dry then I can link it back up with the fore half of the keel assembly. mtaylor, popash42, Keith Black and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted February 5, 2022 Author Share #144 Posted February 5, 2022 I cut these grooves in the last frames to accept the ends of the seven transoms. I marked them on the front. The blade needed a 6° tilt. popash42, Keith Black and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted February 5, 2022 Author Share #145 Posted February 5, 2022 The transoms will be the same style as the bow: Keith Black, scrubbyj427, popash42 and 1 other 1 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share #146 Posted February 7, 2022 More rebuilding.... I'm constantly confused about angles and shapes and tapers and lengths and widths when it comes to these cant frames. They are 95% curved and they connect to 9 other non-standard, curved shaped pieces. It's slow going. scrubbyj427, Dave_E, mtaylor and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share #147 Posted February 9, 2022 I'm rebuilding the transoms so they all fit into their groove on the aftmost stern cant frames. This will be transom number 1 (replacing the one next to it) and it is going to have its own grooves to accept the fashion and filling pieces that lay up against the inner stern post and deadwood. Keith Black and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share #148 Posted February 11, 2022 It took some patience but I think these pieces are all seated well enough to glue up. mtaylor, CiscoH, giampieroricci and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share #149 Posted February 12, 2022 Now that I have the first transom and can't frames in place, I can cut the rest of the fashion and filler pieces so they fit into their slots. popash42, oneslim, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamA Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share #150 Posted February 12, 2022 Aaaaand she's in. Starboard fashion piece glued. Keith Black and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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