Florida Sharpie Fishing Schooner of 1899 by Thistle17 - RESTORATION

[Thistle17]

After nearly 4 years of searching, I have finally received information on the identity of the model shown below. It was found in an antique shop in upstate NY by a member of the Modelshipwrights of Western New York much as it appears today. Sadly the member has died and I purchased it from his estate as it is a superbly built scratch model of faithful reproduction. I just could not let it fall by the wayside in the estate liquidation.

 

With the help of members of the Hampton Roads and New Jersey modelers group it was found in the National Watercraft Collection publication by Howard Chapelle. Plans (lines and deck layout) reside in the Smithsonian archives and I have requested a copy to support my restoration.

 

The pictures attached are from my cell phone and as I cannot call myself an amateur photographer they will have to do until I invest in better equipment. The pictures do not do justice to the quality of this model so I add further description.

 

The model is about 27 inches at the waterline with a breath of approximately 6 inches. Given the information in the National Watercraft Collection second edition it would be 1:24 scale as that seems to be the size of the full scale vessel or 55 feet (WL). She is constructed of boxwood.It appears to be fully ribbed internally. I might add that the model has some years of age as the wood has mellowed to a rich creamy  tan color. Everything about this model shouts it is the work of a master modeler. All planking, joinery, fittings, rigging and detail are flawlessly done. All deck fittings are scratch built from ferrous metal. All blocks and rigging treatment are of fine execution. The decking and planking is treated with simulated tree nails. The builder must have familiarized him or her self with construction details that can be found in Chapelle's e book, The Migrations of an American Boat Type, as they are so well reproduced in the model.

 

It needs some work, as in its travels some items are missing or in need of repair. These include some cabin and engine room hatches, the repair of the main well amid ship that has stared to come apart, rigging that needs repair or replacement and it sorely needs a new mounting and case.

 

I would like to document its restoration work for the sake of tje former modeler in hopes that someone out there may recognize her and possibly identify the person who built this fine model.

 

Work will begin when the Smithsonian plan shows up.

 

Joe

[jlefever]

Nice model indeed!

 

You might like to check out the on-line publications at Gutenberg Project, they have a free download of Chapelle's monograph "Migrations of an American Boat Type" (published by the Smithsonian and now out of print) which include plans and photos for a North Carolina sharpie schooner with is similar but has a less developed bow.

 

Looks like a fun project.

 

Jim

[Thistle17]

Thanks Jim I did discover this recently but have yet to download. I might mention I was also alerted by the secretary of the NRG that one can establish an ALERT on Google for any subject of interest that will do just that as related information is posted. I plan to use this as well.

Joe

[Roger Pellett]

Joe,

 

She would seem to be close to “all there.” And the few things missing like the wheel can be added without much research.

 

It would appear that it will take you longer to build a display case than to restore the model.

 

It is fortunate that she has found a home with someone capable of doing a first class restoration job.

 

Roger

[Thistle17]

Roger thanks for the encouragement. yes she does not need a lot of work. However I am a bit tenuous regarding the restoration. I further note who ever did this was a master at controlling glue! It is just another sign of the competent nature of the creator. And you are right the case will be most of the work. Right now I am debating with myself of how to present her. I have some beautiful mahogany and cherry stock that I could use for a fully framed case. But I waver. It may be too elegant for a workboat? Should it just be a frameless cover and work a more fitting base into the design. I have to sleep on it a bit more.

 

Joe

Edited November 23, 2021 by Thistle17

[Roger Pellett]

I personally like wooden framed cases if the wooden members can be made small enough not to detract from the model.  The cross section of the uprights for the cases that I make are 1/2in by 1/2in.  The top framing is about 1/2in x 3/8in.

 

Maybe use some wood more typical to Florida?  Cypress and even pine come to mind.

 

If you are thinking of a less formal look, even a particle board base imitating sand with a frameless acrylic cover.  

 

Roger

[jlefever]

One thought does occur as I read through this post, that of the unknown builder.

 

I've never been a fan of putting my name front and center on my projects but It feels as if it should be there somewhere.

 

I'm thinking on my various modeling efforts as well as other art and craft efforts that the minimum may be a label on the bottom or back of the case including my name, date of construction and source of the model or plans.

 

Something to give a future owner a bit of a story to tell.

 

I hope you are able to learn something of this apparently quite skilled modeler.

 

Jim

[Thistle17]

Jim I am of the same mind. I can't imagine putting my name on this as "my" creation. It should be the original modeler. just yesterday i spent some time removing elements that are not attached to see if there was any trace of a name. None could be found. So it will remain a mystery for some time to come and hopefully not forever.

 

I still await the Smithsonian drawing for more detail information but as I inspect the model, ever more closely,  I have begun to think that the builder may have known more of the vessel that the drawing may reveal. Some of the detail elements of the build are so subtle that a drawing may not have been enough of a reference.

 

The president of the Niagara Ship Modelers (Canada) relates that he adds a pull out on the bottom of his display cases indicating any information he wants to convey. All that I may do is have a plaque made for direct display indicating the vessel type, scale and builder as unknown and use the other technique for additional information.

 

Joe

Edited May 9, 2021 by Thistle17

[Roger Pellett]

My mother spent the last year of her life in a nursing home.  When she had trouble sleeping the staff would wheel her down to the nursing station to chat.  When my sister paid a visit, a staff member took her aside and said that my mother might have dementia as she was telling them stories about sailing on Lake Erie.  My sister had to convince them that these stories were true.

 

My point is that as we end our lives the world will quite quickly forget what we what we once accomplished.  This includes our grandchildren, great grandchildren and so on.  The ship models that we build can be a tangible link to these future generations.  Several years ago, I restored a model that my father built.  I made sure that his name was displayed on the nameplate in the hope that someone in the future will want to know who he was.

 

It’s a shame that the identity of the maker of this handsome model has been lost.

 

Roger

[Thistle17]

Things are starting to come together albeit slowly. Two orders from Syren finally landed the right size ship wheel. The 1 inch diameter wheel is most correct. Chuck tells me all is not lost having the larger wheel as it is going on the Winchelsea.

 

Secondly I had an email exchange with the Smithsonian and I should be in the queue for a drawing mailing some time next week.

 

The age of this model and any top coat of poly or whatever that was applied has given the exisiting model a rich tan patina. Just fashioning basswood replacement pieces is not going to be acceptable. Some experimenting will be in order before I go too far.

 

Joe

[Thistle17]

I still await the drawing from the Smithsonian and assume "I am in the queue for a drawing next week" was abit optomiostic on their part. In the meantime I built the correct scale ships wheel from the minikit from Syren. I would offer that it was a humbling and frustrating build experience. I have to give myself a C- of a grade on quality.

 

I followed the directions quite closely and I don't feel my small motor control capability has dimished to the point where I am not able to achieve a decent job on most any component. The challenge with this assembly is two fold in my estimation. The parts are incredibly small and when Syren expresses a caution about sanding it should be taken seriously. The parts unsanded fit snugly into the build jig, however any over sanding of the char yields too loose a fit. Secondly the outer bands are made from .025 thick boxwood. Invariably they are prone to breakage especially the larger arc as it's lower sections run with the grain. Turning the spokes even with careful turning with a fine cut watchmakers file to round over the elements was challenging as well. I would recommend a purchase of two kits using one for practice. This is likely a practice piece.

 

I am possessed! I just can't live with this failure. I have to find a better solution or get much,better at this mini kit.

Joe

 

Edited May 29, 2021 by Thistle17

[Thistle17]

After licking my wounds on the terrible results of the ships wheel I have decided to make my own or at least try my hand at it. Using the one I made I took dimensions off the wheel and created a drawing suitable for replication. I did increase the diameter of the wheel a bit after sizing the one I made on the model. It was a tad smaller than what i would imagine. It will be checked out when the drawing finally arrives.

 

While I had the model out I managed to remove the hub of the missing wheel. I speculate the original modeler may have purchased one as the hub seemed at first glance to be a molded element. In addition it is an 8 spoked wheel rather than the 10 of the one I fabricated.

 

My appraoch to the fabrication attempt is as follows:

- Fabricate and glue 4 pieces of boxwood segments such that end grain will be minimized

- Laminate 3 overlapping layers with the outer 2 layers of thinner stock such that the glue joints are not aligned

- Mount this on my end mill and turn the outer diameter.

- Mount the turned element on my revolving table vertically to drill the 8 spoke holes

- Return the piece to its normal postion and mill the inner diameter but with tabs.

- The hub is somewhat problematical because of its dimuitive diameter and the need to drill 8 more aligned holes. That is going to take some thinking.

 

Now the spokes solution. I think I have found suitable 13mm belaying pins of the correct scale and length (Crafty Sailor) to use for the wheel spokes. We will see. I hope to have some fabrication photos along the way but will await the drawing to check my dimensions.

 

Do I have backup plan? Yes I do! Harbor Models has a wheel that appears to do the job if this fails.

 

Joe

[druxey]

Have you TFFM Volume II? There is a method for making wheels in it if you do.

[Thistle17]

David thank you for the excerpt. I will revise my methodology for the ships wheel and proceed.

Joe

[Thistle17]

The drawing from the Smithsonian came today so there is no excuse for me to proceed with the restoration. If you send off to them count on about a 2 week delivery.

 

I will say that the drawing is quite good in quality reprint and is faithful in its scale to the model i.e. 1:24. The recorded length is 53' 2" with a beam of 11' 11". I remain mystified or perplexed at how the original modeler acquired the subtle information that the drawing either does not show or depict in sufficient detail. I have scanned the web for Florida commercial fishing history articles and pictures to no avail. I have looked up Florida museums that might have some documentation again without results. The one thing i do have now is a very good idea of the ship's wheel size. It is fortunate that missing elements can be replicated with confidence from surrounding works.

Joe

[Roger Pellett]

Joe,  is it possible that this boat had an iron steering wheel instead of a wooden one?  I’m thinking of one of the Edson type wheels used by small commercial craft.

 

If so, I remember a shop note published in the NRG about making one of these.  From your previous posts I believe that you have a metal lathe.  If so using the method from the shop note, a metal one might be easier than a wooden one.

 

Roger

[Thistle17]

Roger I can't tell from the drawing as it only shows a side profile with not much detail. I just posted a new reference from the NC Maritime Museum via its curator so I will give him a shout to see if he knows. Thanks for the heads up. The aforementioned reference is under the topic "Discussions for ship plans etc." on this site.

Joe

Edited October 3, 2021 by Thistle17

[Thistle17]

I took the model down to measure it for a case as it was starting to accumulate dust and I could not resist starting to work on it. I repaired the main hatch covers as eye rings had come off and one hatch cover had come apart. In doing so I did observe that some glue joints on the hatch coaming also had loosened. That was repaired. In doing so the centerboard lift internal "iron works" came apart. It is incredibly tiny so I am struggling with its repair. While doing so I began wondering about the chain lift that hauls the center board up. I now observe that the chain appears to be "terminated at an "iron work" mounted to the main cabin roof. This is just visible in my entry posting above on the 3rd photo. On the drawing it is the dotted line shown heading for the cabin roof. The termination appears just in front and to the side of the main cabin smoke stack. The Smithsonian drawing does show a dotted line indicating this odd termination point. What is even more puzzling is how the center baord is lifted when required. It imust weigh over 500 lbs!

Joe

Edited October 3, 2021 by Thistle17

[Roger Pellett]

Joe,

 

I have seen pictures of the centerboard leads on Chesapeake Bay craft led to the cabin top then attached to a multipart block and tackle with the fall belayed to a cleat on the cabin’s aft end.  This would allow the helmsman to raise and lower the board with the rest of the crew forward handling the dredge gear.  Although this is not a Bay Craft, Florida has plenty of shallow waters too.

 

It would seem that you are faced with the dilemma that occurs in restoring a model.  Do you correct the original builders mistakes. 

 

Roger

 

[Thistle17]

Roger just in the last two days I have gotten my head and "nose" into this model. Two thoughts have come to mind. For example I pulled up one of the pump shafts that are P & S and aft of the main hatch. The original builder had machined registration slots in the bottom that once seated into the hull would lock them into position. Who does that kind of work where no ones sees the care and precision. Or the centerboard hoist below the hatches that has modeled "iron works" fashioned out of blackened brass of minute scale that no one sees and that took me about 1 hour to re install in the repair! So the first thought is he was an incredible and extremely adept modeler.

 

The second thought is as I take a menatal inventory I am finding more fittings and details that are missing and not obvious to the casual approach. And I might add that to recreate them is going to be very challenging for me.

 

Your description of how the centerboard could be controlled is making sense to me as I had assumed it was controled by someone forward of the main cabin. I am going to start a search on the internet to try to tie this down.

 

Joe

[Roger Pellett]

Joe,

 

I am usually not a fan of the all natural wood approach to models of ships and boats from a relatively modern period.  Unlike the 17th & 18th Century Dockyard Models, for these workboats, I think that a little paint looks better.

 

This model is an exception!  The beautiful Boxwood (?) hull and workmanship is just gorgeous.  It’s a shame that we don’t know who built it.  If you know a friendly ENT doctor it might be worthwhile checking it out with an Endoscope.

 

Roger

[Thistle17]

Roger I searched the web and only came up with one grainy photo that hints at the existence of the rigging you describe. David Bennett of the NC Maritime Museum has spoken with me about sharpies so I sent him an email in hopes he may be able to provide further info.

 

In regard to using the scope of an ENT, there is only one open cavity at the stern and if I read this modeler correctly he placed the bulkheads exactly where they lie on the drawings. That would likely yield a dead end for me.

 

Joe

[Thistle17]

Incredible, this world technology we so often take for granted and that is so abused by many I might add! Within minutes this morning David Bennett of the North Carolina Maritime Museum responded to my email. He is the curator there and is extremely knowledgable on the sharpie's. He sent me several photos that answer the question clearly,

 

I might add that he has developed a You Tube video on the sharpie subject that is a historical journey of this work boat and its many lives as an oysterman, a commercial transport and fisherman. You have to witness the bounty these craft brought in. It was just astounding. Sadly it is gone. I lament the our lack of sealife care then. If only!!!!!!

 

 

Edited October 4, 2021 by Thistle17

[Thistle17]

I know I have intimated this before but each time I approach this model to evaluate any restoration element I find myself in awe of the original builder. Everything on the model is of the highest precision and execution. Planking, deck furniture, metal work  replication is just astounding. Each tree nail, each pinning is precisely located. In evaluating building a missing hatch in the stern I now realize the entire hull has been ribbed and I will bet all bulkheads called out on the drawing are there as well.  I can not imagine that this could have been done without machinery. In examing the hatches and the deckhouses I recently discovered the modeler had used quarter sawn material to minimize expansion problems. I am still a bit puzzeled as to the wood species. The model has never been sealed so there are years of a deep patinia to the wood. At times I suspect it is boxwood due to its density (using the finger nail depression test) or bass wood that has just dried out over time. When I look at the end grain of the items I mention I can see a distinct grain so  it makes me think I still do not know. As an aside I was trimming a flowering ornamental apple tree today and in examining the grain and color it made me think it just might be hand milled lumber of this sort.

 

Now the other aspects of this model are its origin and its travels. It has had some disrespect in that some boom and other metal work is missing, there are missing doors to the main cabin, some rigging is missing on both the fore and main sails, and oddly some key deck terminations for fore and main sail control from the stern were never added. There is more but these are the main elements. So one question, that I probably never will answer was why wasn't she completed? Perhaps it was a life interrupted and then perhaps it was something less tragic. On another note the modeler had such an intimate knowledge of how it was built and rigged even in areas where elements are not shown in detail or below deck. One source could have been the North Carolina Sharpies as they were so close to this Florida Sharpie. But they were virtually wiped out in a hurricane somewhere in the mid 1930s. Could the model be even older than I think????

 

An update: I forgot to mention that all sheaves are boxwood, fully operational with what appears to be aluminnum or iron innards. They too are incredible.

 

At this point I have to live with the unkowns and drive forward hoping that I am worthy of restoring this incredible work. Stay tuned if you wish. Hopefully next time there will be more show than tell.

 

Joe

Edited October 14, 2021 by Thistle17

[Thistle17]

If it seems I am obsessing over the restorartion of this model it is most likely true. I have such respect for the creator's craftmanship that I feel if I do not try to replicate his work I am doing the person a misservice.

 

There are some wooden parts missing. Namely the port engine hatch and the main cabin doors. given the patina of the aged wood I have been experimenting with different species to see if I can approach existing wood aging. I happen to have a sheet of Alaskan Yellow Cedar that is actually on the orange side.  I had to mill it to .039 in so I lost some of the color but my first coat of WOP seems to be bringing in the correct hue. A few more coats should do it.

 

To the upper right is the hatch. I have built the lid and it is yet to be finished. I show it as further testament to the creator's talent. Observe the "tree nailed" framework of the assembly. This person even treated the inner sleeve that sets down in the hull (of course nobody can see it) with the same detail and  the same precision.

 

To the left are the main hatches for color comparison.

 

Joe

[Thistle17]

With Roger's added reference of the book, The Sharpie Book, by Reuel Parker, I now have a much better understanding of the rigging of this vessel. I repeat the quote from an email I received from Reuel Parker here about the bow sprit rigging which was most puzzling to me until his revelations:

 

[The forestay rove through a sheave in the bowsprit is a typical Chesapeake Bay arrangement, but there is usually an outer forestay with conventional bobstay beyond the inner forestay, whose function is to support the mast and carry a “spectacle iron” from which lazy jacks are suspended to contain the club foot boom and furled jib. This is absent here, so there is only the single forestay. The “car” on top of the bowsprit allows tensioning and releasing the club foot jib boom, which is absent in the photo. The car arrangement was commonly used on schooners. The inhaul lanyard is missing, but the outhaul lanyard is in place. There is a gooseneck on top of the car for the missing boom. The traveler on deck is for the jib sheet, which would be attached to the aft end of the club foot jib boom; the block at the front of the mast is for a fairlead for the jib sheet.

 

The cheek blocks on each side of the bowsprit are anchor rollers.

 

You might refer to Chapelle’s “American Small Sailing Craft” and his booklet on Skipjacks for further information. Or my article in Professional Boatbuilder Magazine last summer on Bowsprits.]

 

In his book he also describes on pages 143 and 144 the "car" or traveler arrangement for a San Juan 36 foot Sharpie. the only difference here is that the club or boom is 'fairlead back to the cockpit coaming for control by the helm. This would be difficult on the Florida Sharpie as the deck would have been laden with catch making the fairlead difficult to control I suspect.

 

So the picture has indeed opened up. As I suspected the cheek blocks have nothing to do with the "car" or traveler. So that is no longer a point of confusion. Further I have to consider his advice on the fore stay comments and the missing irons. I have contacted Wooden Boat to get a reprint of the article he suggests and should be getting that soon.

 

 

Edited November 29, 2021 by Thistle17

[Thistle17]

The kind and supportive editor at Professional Boat Builer sent me a reprint of the Parker article in the June/July issue of 2021 that fully describes the bowsprit rigging and rationale for club foot booms and "cars" or travelers. It even gives more detail on page 54 of just how this area of the boom should be rigged. I have already made the "business end" of the club foot boom but am now considering a 3rd redo to more accurately reflect this new data.

 

The editor of Professional Boat Builder has graciously granted permission to include Reuel Parker's comprehensive article. There is a wealth of information within. As I reflect on my pursuit of the sharpie history and its characteristics my respect for this vessel continuses to grow. I also have to acknowledge the people who build, restore, preserve and document the real craft.. Without them this information may forever be lost.

Joe

Bowsprits191-FINAL.pdf

Edited December 1, 2021 by Thistle17
addition of material

[Thistle17]

Preparations to repair the rigging have gone a bit slower than anticipated. I finally gave up trying to repair the broken brass chain plates that were on the model. Curiously the builder had decided to make them in 3 parts;  a lower section connected to the hull, a mid section that was bent and soldered to sit vertical and the schackle like shroud tether. Between alignment problems and poor solder joints (even after cleaning and tinning they would not hold) I gave up and started anew. The remade versions were one piece straps of 3/32 X 1/32 brass strip bent to the correct angle. The chain plates were fashioned with a narrow tang at the top similar to Cheerful's chain plates.  I must be losing it here is an [EDIT]I am working on 2 models at once, Cheerful and the Sharpie. The Sharpie chain plates were made differently on the original model. A brass strip was made of the dimensions stated and tapered a bit at the top. Atop the narrow end a small brass tubing of 1mm was soldered. To this new pre-formed shackles were attached. They were made this way to faithfully reproduce the original modelers intent. They are much harder to make however.These only need blackening to complete the process.

 

Now the club foot boom termination on the "car" or traveler for the jib was a different story. The model as received was missing the metal work and until I received help from Reuel Parker's article in Professional Boat Builder I was at a loss to come up with a design. In the PDF above, on page 54, figure 3, is what I needed to recreate the element. I tried twice to make the forward metal work but each time the results were either only partial fufilment or were unacceptable product. On the third try I decided to try a different approach. Starting with some 2mm square brass tubing cut to length to include the forward yoke to attach to the car and long enough to simulate the boom strapping.  The yoke holes were then drilled. From earlier experience I knew any files I had were too thick to fashion the yoke ears by removing the top and bottom walls of the tubing so I turned to my Byrnes saw knowing the 0.030 slitting blade could cut through the brass. Holding the piece safely was the problem.

 

Shown in the photo below I cut a narrow slit in a piece of hardwood, trial fitting as I went and flipping the face against the fence for an exact centerline cut. I stopped when I had a strong press fit of the 2mm brass tubing within the slit. It then became a simple matter of moving the fence gradually and subsequently flipping the craddle face against the fence to cut the desired openings. A small section of the piece was left solid on all faces to maintain structural continuity.

 

In turn the boom was shaved slightly to accomadate the newly formed simulated straps. The product is shown below the holding block. What remains is the "in haul" metal work to complete the final missing rigging elements. I don't want to admit to the number of hours it took to get to this point.

 

Joe

Edited December 23, 2021 by Thistle17

[Thistle17]

One could have a healthy discussion about the precepts of restoration. When is a replacement part, made anew, but differently, yet retaining the functionaly to  be considered an unfaithful reproduction. Well call it what you wish.  I had to scrap the replacement chainplates. During install they were so delicate that the tip which was a piece of soldered tubing attached to the plate body separated in both accounts. The stress was just too great on this diminuitive part (just about 1mm). I had to remake them much as I and others made Cheerful chainplates. You can find this in Chapter 9 of the Cheerful build log. Basically the chain plate has a tang at its top that is bent into a loop that allows connection of the lower deadeye to the chain plate. In this model there are no deadeyes. There is a looped line that passes through a shackle attached to the formed eye of the bent over tang on the chain plate and the shroud eye to adjust tension.

 

Attached photo is the reconstructed chain plate with shroud lashing installed but not tied off. Tie off is identical to deadeyes.

 

It is no wonder why they were missing on the model when I got it. I will move on from here and not look back.

Joe

Edited December 24, 2021 by Thistle17

[Thistle17]

It has been a month since my last post on this restoration. A number of life events have kept me away from the model. Who ever said retirement was a life of bliss!!!!

 

I have to comment on restoration in general. It bears repeating I am no where near an expert at this process but do have basic skills after completeing 5 restorations of lesser models. This model is quite different in that the original modeler was incredibly skilled and made most, if not all, components from scratch. As I have noted I have moved onto the rigging of late and am now working the running rigging. As I proceed I find that his or her ability to fabricate parts humbles me when I try to replace those missing. Schackles for example, of which several are missing, are of such a diminuitive nature are beyond my capability. For example in the preceeding photo one can see an eye bolt on the deck. This is a termination point for a single block that is reeved to a companion block on the fore mast boom iron, starboard side (a similar arrangement is found on the port side). A schackle no bigger than 1/16 of an inch was fabricated out of wire (approximately #32 gauge or smaller) with a clevis simulated from a cut off nail that has a shaft diameter of approximately 0.0125 inches!!!!! My smallest nails are 0.02 inches!

 

In addition, because of age, I continue to find the model quite fragile. Last evening while rigging the fore mast boom port tackle to the helm i leaned a bit too heavily on one of the hatch covers and it collapsed. Luckily repair was easily handled. Just another frustration.

 

What is that saying, "Seemed like a good idea at the time"?

Joe