HMS Victory by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC

[Ian_Grant]

Hi Bill,  I'm glad you mentioned the bunt lines again as looking at your photos I realized there is a mistake.

 

Each main course bunt line runs from abaft the foremast, through a block below the main top (near its front) from forward to aft  then to the buntline block on the yard. They only go through this one block; they don't run aft to another as in your pics. It is only the leech lines which require blocks at front and back of the top.  You have too many blocks; see "The Main Top" at top of pg 253.

[Bill97]

Ok great Ian. I was misunderstanding the text, and your earlier instructions. When Longridge used the plural “blocks” in “pass from forward to aft through the blocks” he was not meaning both of the blocks. Your way of saying it above in #901 is much clearer. I did the same with the leach lines sing two blocks. Is that also not correct? 

[Ian_Grant]

The leech lines each use two blocks because they belay aft of the mast and have to go to the yard forward of the mast without fouling anything. Yours are ok.

[Bill97]

Thanks Ian. That does in fact make so much more since now. Just need to cut off 3 unneeded blocks on each side. For my curiosity why on page 253 in the paragraph The Main Top does Longridge refer to the fore cross tree?  That is really confusing since the cross trees are further up the masts and I don’t think have anything to do with these lines. 

Edited February 16, 2022 by Bill97

[Ian_Grant]

He's referring to the two cross members, also called cross trees, supporting the platform of the top. The "fore" one is the forward one. These cross members are in turn supported by the trestle trees, which are  attached to the mast above the cheeks. See Figs 95-97.

 

You are right, there are other cross trees at the topmast head too.

[Bill97]

Oh OK that explains it. I did not know the support for the mast top was also referred to as a cross tree.  Still learning every day. 

[Bill97]

Starting to stack up served lower shrouds on the foremast. Loving my Serv-O-Matic. Can’t imagine how long it would take to do these manually. Will touch up the black paint on the mast when all are installed. 

Edited February 17, 2022 by Bill97

[Bill97]

I am about to get to the last lower shroud on the foremast. It will be a single on each side. In Longridge’s book it calls for this being done with a cut or eye splice. Will need to research how to do this with my .85 thread. 

Edited February 24, 2022 by Bill97

[Ian_Grant]

Bill,

 

You've been pretty quiet lately! Still busy I see.

 

Here is an easy way to fake the swifter shrouds using a single thread for both.

The gaps represent the thread passing underneath itself.

A little judicious wiggling and tugging and you can get the two to be diametrically opposed, or any any relative position you like.

 

I got this originally from Blue Ensign, on the OPCVMW ("Old Pete Coleman Victory Modelling Website").

 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

29 minutes ago, Ian_Grant said:

Old Pete Coleman Victory Modelling Website

As you've previously said, Ian.....all together now .... 🙂. Maurice's stuff is/was pretty amazing, I think he's on here too isn't he? I made note of Pegasus on my list of ships I'd like to build when I'm all grown up.

 

[Bill97]

Guys I did in fact see that in R.C. Anderson’s book and thought about doing it that way, but thought you would call me out for taking a short cut. 😀
 

Ian the weather here in Kentucky took a unusual turn to the good for a few days so the wife and I took a trip to one of our beautiful lakes for 4 days. 
 

Back pulling a shift in the ship yard now!

Edited February 24, 2022 by Bill97

[Ian_Grant]

Wow, nice looking weather!  We had freezing rain two nights ago, to the extent that yesterday kids were skating laps around our Crescent on the smooth ice! 😄😄 Great to see, first time ever, I nearly pulled on my skates and joined them. Not great for driving however.

 

Sadly though 🙄, this morning the city truck finally came by spraying salt/sand on the road.

 

Bill, rest assured I would never chastise you for not forming a true splice in 0.85mm thread! I decided on my Preussen to omit even the serving at the shroud centres, albeit it's less visible at 1/150 scale.

[Ian_Grant]

5 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

As you've previously said, Ian.....all together now .... 🙂. Maurice's stuff is/was pretty amazing, I think he's on here too isn't he? I made note of Pegasus on my list of ships I'd like to build when I'm all grown up.

 

Kevin, yes Maurice is here (Blue Ensign). Check out his Queen Anne Royal Barge build, and now his Sphinx.

Edited February 25, 2022 by Ian_Grant

[Bill97]

I am serving the center of the shroud pair even though no one except me will know or see it. I have all of the shrouds except the last singles attached and numbered for later. 

[Bill97]

Foremast lower shrouds served and seized around the mast, including the swifters using the knot you drew Ian. Not sure yet if I am satisfied with how the top shroud looks stacked on the others. Will keep looking at it. Now starting to stack lower shrouds on mainmast. 

Edited February 25, 2022 by Bill97

[Bill97]

I continue to look at the swifters on the foremast. When you examine the way the thread looks stacked on top all the other shrouds it does not look as clean with the threads crossing over each other as a result of the method it is tied. I did not serve the center of this shroud line thinking it needed to be more flexible to accomplish the knot. You guys think I should remove it, serve it, and put it back on the mast, or would you live with it as is?

[harlequin]

i could live with this all day long....it is simply superb IMHO...

[Ian_Grant]

Hi Bill;

 

I see what you mean in close-up, but realistically no one will ever notice naked eye especially when deadeyes and topmast shrouds, and jeer strops, and the sling are installed in front of them on the completed model.

 

Looks great my friend!

 

My only comment is that the clinches of the shroud pairs should be staggered back as they rise, ie not all be on top of each other. See Plan 8.

[Bill97]

Good morning Ian. I wondered about that and even glanced at Plan 8 for guidance. Now that I look much more closely I see the bottom pair clinches are in line with the front edge of the mast and the top pair in line with the back edge. A little adjustment and will b ready to go with stays over the top. I may try serving the center of the swifter line when making it for he mainmast. If it is flexible enough to make that knot you free up I will see how it compares. 

Edited February 26, 2022 by Bill97

[Bill97]

Ok. Lower shrouds on foremast adjusted to stager the clinches. 

[Bill97]

I think I asked this question before so forgive me if I am repeating. I probably should just scroll back through by build here to see if you guys have advised me what to do already. Now that I am into my standing rigging when would you guys recommend I attach the yards?  I know I will want to attach the foot ropes, blocks, and other rigging essentials to the yards before attaching them to the mast with pendants or parrals, and that I need to attach them before I begin the running rigging. But how far into the standing rigging should I progress before stopping to add the yards?  How do you guys do it?

[tomganc]

Looking fab, well done with the shrouds. All the time to get them nicely served and prepared is definitely paying off now

 

Can't wait to see more...

 

Regards

Tom

[Bill97]

Thanks Tom. Your DeAgostini build looks incredible. I really love the cannon balls! Going to take some time to read through your blog. 

[Bill97]

Lower shrouds served and installed on all 3 masts!  Now where to go next?  Ian you make a very good point of working from inside out so not attaching the shrouds to the channels yet. Others make the argument of attaching the lower shrouds before doing the stays, just not the ratlines yet. And regardless which way I go with the shrouds I am still doing analysis paralysis on when to install the yards. So far now until I decide how I want to proceed with the shrouds I am working on the yards off the ship. Where possible I am strengthening them with wood or copper rods and painting them. As I prepare them I am searching for instructions/guidance/advice on the blocks and rigging to attach to each yard. 

[Bill97]

Started rigging my shrouds to the channels. I use the thin piece of balsa wood and push pin method to space the deadeyes. I got the starboard side of the fore mast done and two pair on the port side of the fore mast. I am leaving the lanyards loose for now and will adjust and tighten as I complete the standing rigging. Also going to postpone adding the ratlines till after the standing and running complete. Should allow easier access to the interior of the deck. 

[Bill97]

Ok. Lower shrouds, minus the ratlines, are installed on the fore and mizzen masts. After completing the work and examining it with my critical eye, I am thinking the upper and lower deadeyes are maybe a bit to far apart. Since the work is done, I am going to live with it. Still have the main mast to complete. 

[Ian_Grant]

BIll, I don't think you're too far off the real thing although from books I have the real thing has them a little far apart too.😏

 

[Bill97]

Thanks Ian. I am actually closer than I thought. 

[Bill97]

Continuing attaching lower shrouds to the channels. About half way done with the main mast’s lower shrouds. 

[Veszett Roka]

Very impressive Bill. Your Vic made me to want another one for myself, but my Pamir is stalled due other projects and i will finish her before start any other.