Bill97 Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share #301 Posted August 3, 2021 Exactly Hubac! One more to the big 7 0! Repair painting completed! Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubac's Historian Posted August 3, 2021 Share #302 Posted August 3, 2021 Nicely done, Bill! One observation - you may want to glue and putty in your hawser entry holes pieces sooner than later, so that you can paint the continuation of the bee-lines in this area. Quote We are all works in progress, all of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share #303 Posted August 3, 2021 (edited) Hubac I was looking at that. Is it OK to glue them onto the hull in advance of attaching parts 356 and 357? I was not planning on adding 356 and 357 until after I assemble the hull and decks together. The instructions say to glue to the hull and to 356 or 357 at same time. Will it make a difference if I glue the hawser entry hole pieces on in advance of the half cutwater? Edited August 3, 2021 by Bill97 Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubac's Historian Posted August 3, 2021 Share #304 Posted August 3, 2021 I think it will not pose any problem to do so, Bill. Quote We are all works in progress, all of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubac's Historian Posted August 4, 2021 Share #305 Posted August 4, 2021 (edited) Actually, looking at it a little closer, now, I do think that before you glue-in the hawser pieces, you will want to do a good dry-fit between the bottom of the hawse pieces and the head knee extensions that wrap around the bow, and below the hawsers; if the hawse-piece obstructs the knee extension, in any way, that will be much harder to trim after the hawse piece is glued in-place. Edited August 4, 2021 by Hubac's Historian Quote We are all works in progress, all of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veszett Roka Posted August 4, 2021 Share #306 Posted August 4, 2021 11 hours ago, Bill97 said: Exactly Hubac! One more to the big 7 0! Never mind Bill, call yourself Cool-Man-of-69 and you'll be very popular Congrats for you and Hubac too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veszett Roka Posted August 4, 2021 Share #307 Posted August 4, 2021 (edited) 9 hours ago, Bill97 said: Hubac I was looking at that. Is it OK to glue them onto the hull in advance of attaching parts 356 and 357? I was not planning on adding 356 and 357 until after I assemble the hull and decks together. The instructions say to glue to the hull and to 356 or 357 at same time. Will it make a difference if I glue the hawser entry hole pieces on in advance of the half cutwater? Bill, i'd paint the hawse holes and the bow section 356-357 first, then glue them to final position. Minor putty might need there (especially between the hull and bow) but it might filled by unthinned black paint too. As those are not part of the bee lines, i don't see reason to glue before the paint. Edited August 4, 2021 by Veszett Roka Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 4, 2021 Author Share #308 Posted August 4, 2021 Thanks Veszett. The picture is perfect for guidance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 5, 2021 Author Share #309 Posted August 5, 2021 Ok guys I am just looking for your opinion and what you like. The instructions show the option of putting glazing (windows) on 7 of the hatches on each side at the stern end of the ship. In that case you position the gun back from the hatch. I guess the option is I can glaze some openings if I want and have guns extended out others, or do all either one way or the other. How did you do your’s? Not seen example of hatches glazed. Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Grant Posted August 5, 2021 Share #310 Posted August 5, 2021 On my model, I have all guns run out on the port side and no glazing for the captain and admiral. On the stbd side I closed all gunports on the two lower decks (to see the chequer effect), and glazed where applicable for captain and admiral. What you do is your choice. Mexspur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share #311 Posted August 6, 2021 Ian is your model displayed where both sides can be seen? The display case I will build for mine “years from now!” 😀 and where I will place it will make only one side visible. Will be able to take it out and turn it around from time to time if I want. So which ever side I plan to display I will have to decide which guns to display and which hatches to close. Either way a bunch of these 102 cannons I spent so much time on building will fall in the “because I know they are there” category. By the way, do you know what the group of thin wires about 6” long that came with the kit are far? I searched the instructions but can’t find a reference to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Grant Posted August 6, 2021 Share #312 Posted August 6, 2021 Well, ahem, no, only the port side is seen at present. Suppose I could turn it when occasionally removing the case for cleaning. I kept the extra cannons in my parts box, for who knows what future use? Those wires are for making the gunport lanyards; see pg 15 near the right margin. They expect you to cut them to perfect length and glue the ends🤪. I didn't use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin-the-lubber Posted August 6, 2021 Share #313 Posted August 6, 2021 They’re perfect for cleaning out model glue nozzles though, just the right size. Ian_Grant 1 Quote Current builds: 1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller) https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/ 2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/ 3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196 Stash: Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later) Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!) Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this) Revell Constitution 1/96 If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share #314 Posted August 6, 2021 I thought that is what it might be. Did not think it would look as good as thread. May try making some eyebolts with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share #315 Posted August 6, 2021 Ian have you visited The Doran Bay Model Ship Museum? I think it is in Kingston. John Reid, a name you may recognize as an accomplished model ship builder, has a Facebook page devoted to building the Victory. I read on his page that he is donating his model to this museum. That would be cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Grant Posted August 6, 2021 Share #316 Posted August 6, 2021 Hi Bill; thanks for reminding me of this model ship collection. I did go there once a few years ago when we were passing through (used to take the kids to the nearby "Prehistoric World"), but it was closed. I since forgot about it. I see it is closed for the entirety of 2021 too 😞. I have also been meaning to visit the Thompson model ship gallery at the Art Gallery of Ontario in Toronto, but haven't been yet. Toronto is not a place I go to for pleasure, having grown up there 40 years ago and seen traffic explode since. http://www.ago.net/thomson-collection-ship-models In other news, I see I missed the visits of the "Theodore Too" tugboat along the St Lawrence and lake Ontario on his way to a new berth in Hamilton. Many years ago we took our son on a road trip to ride in "Thomas the Train's" passenger cars in the railway museum in Strasbourg Penn, and then we saw "Theodore Too" in Philadelphia. Fun times 😀. Plus dad got to see "Moshulu". https://montrealgazette.com/news/local-news/theodore-tugboat-might-pass-montreal-on-semi-secret-voyage-to-ontario http://www.moshulu.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share #317 Posted August 6, 2021 (edited) Ian I will have to put those places on my list as well. Spent a little time up your way a little over a year ago. Crossed over from Detroit and then headed east to Niagara Falls on the Canada side. Had to keep reminding myself the speed limit signs were not MPH! Could get in trouble that way. In other news I went rogue today! Hope I am not voted out of the MSW club! ☹️ I kept wondering what it would look like if I had left Daniel’s rigols brass instead of painting over them. Finally I got a glass of good Kentucky bourbon, built up my nerve, and stripped the paint of of them. I then repainted my black and yellow ochre for the third time. Admiral Nelson is probably turning over in his grave but I like my Victory a little pimped out! I actually I am going to leave in my parts from Daniel brass! Might be crazy. Edited August 6, 2021 by Bill97 Snug Harbor Johnny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin-the-lubber Posted August 7, 2021 Share #318 Posted August 7, 2021 It does seem a shame that, when painted, the rigol detail gets somewhat lost in the bee lines (which is why I probably won't bother with improving them) and, at the end of the day it's your model Bill, to do with as you wish! Quote Current builds: 1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller) https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/ 2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/ 3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196 Stash: Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later) Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!) Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this) Revell Constitution 1/96 If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share #319 Posted August 7, 2021 Kevin that is exactly what finally brought me to the decision I made. I was showing my progress to a good friend who is very interested and I had to point out the bashed rigols as a step I had taken. They did not notice on their own. And finally when I saw the photos of John Reid’s ship that is going to the museum I spoke about earlier, I saw he has the chains and fittings for the shrouds still brass. I thought I like that and may leave all Daniel’s parts brass. On a side note: Daniel I think this is a huge compliment to you! The quality of your brass etched pieces makes me want to show them off not have them hidden among all the rigging and paint! Hubac's Historian and dafi 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 9, 2021 Author Share #320 Posted August 9, 2021 So over the weekend I jumped ahead to a task I have been looking forward to. Painting the very recognizable stern. I think it is beautiful and I have been anxious to paint it, especially with Daniel’s balusters. Ian_Grant, Jeff T, Kevin-the-lubber and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafi Posted August 10, 2021 Share #321 Posted August 10, 2021 Great Job!!! XXXDAn Quote To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/ See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/ Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits. http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share #322 Posted August 10, 2021 Thanks Daniel. I was just thinking about your etched plates this morning. I need to go through my instructions and cross reference it to my plates. For every etched part I need to find it in the instructions and make a note. Maybe Dafi in red ink or something. That way when I get to that step I will be reminded to look to your plates for that part instead. With there being so many different parts included on plates 3 and 4 I could see myself easily forgetting I have a brass replacement for certain pieces. dafi and Hubac's Historian 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share #323 Posted August 10, 2021 OK my friends I am seriously considering putting the glazing in the 7 hatches on each side of aft as shown as an option in the instructions. I think it will add some additional visual interest. In this case the guns are positioned in behind the glazing. I researched the few reference books I have to see if this was ever really done this way but can’t find reference to it. If you are familiar with this option how is it done? Are the glazing windows used instead of the hatch covers? Are both the glazing and the hatch cover (open) put in place at each hatch? If just the glazing I am assuming there is no reason for the hatch cover ropes? GrandpaPhil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Grant Posted August 10, 2021 Share #324 Posted August 10, 2021 Bill, the gunports and lanyards are always present. Think of the glazing as "storm windows" except that they're added on the inside not the outside and removed when required. Hubac's Historian, Old Collingwood and GrandpaPhil 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share #325 Posted August 10, 2021 (edited) Great Ian thanks. I just found this similar picture as well. I am going to experiment with putting a small battery operated LED light in both the captain’s and Admiral’s quarters. The glazing will be a nice compliment to that if it works. Edited August 10, 2021 by Bill97 Hubac's Historian and GrandpaPhil 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 11, 2021 Author Share #326 Posted August 11, 2021 By the way Marc I have been meaning to tell you I went to the index an read through your Soleli Royal build. Beautiful job. Would not mind having that model show up under my Christmas tree in a year or so after I complete my Victory. If it does I know where to go for advice. 😊 Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 11, 2021 Author Share #327 Posted August 11, 2021 Happy Birthday Marc! Hope you have a great modeling day. Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 11, 2021 Author Share #328 Posted August 11, 2021 Using some Evergreen to make foot boards in the bottom of the boats that will be on my Victory. Hubac's Historian, Ian_Grant and GrandpaPhil 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 14, 2021 Author Share #329 Posted August 14, 2021 I know everyone says “it is your model, do it as you want”, but I am curious what you guys think would look best. I plan to have some guns extended out hatches and some pulled in with hatches closed. Since I will soon be putting the lower decks in which will get the first set of guns, I have to decide soon. Would you have a combination of open and closed hatches on the same deck, or either all open or all closed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 14, 2021 Author Share #330 Posted August 14, 2021 My Victory construction under the watchful eye of three other peers! Someday she will join them on this nautical wall. Old Collingwood, Jeff T, GrandpaPhil and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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