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Posted

Appears I may be stuck with lead fittings with Mamoli CSS Aabama. Can they be properly treated other than primer or watered down white glue to slow down the degradation of the lead over the long run. Does this problem also plague Brittania metal fittings.

Would wood or brass copies when feasible be better. Could not find Metal for dummies #2 at Amazon.

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

Posted

John,

 

I would think that a clear coat of the organic solvent sort would buy you time, but if the "white glue" is PVA, that has the potential to be a disaster.  The final product in lead disease is lead acetate -I believe.

I am not sure how much if any acetate is in bookbinders PVA,  but all other woodworkers PVA has as much acetic acid as 5% vinegar.  My guess is that a PVA coat would accelerate the disintegration of a lead casting.  

The clear coat using lacquer et al. has the disadvantage of not being glass and thus allowing gases to migrate across it.  A quick smell of vinegar tells you that acetic acid is partially a gas at RT.  

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

  Lead (or more likely tin/lead) fittings will be soft and bendable.  If primed on all surfaces (not sure which primer works best for tin/lead - but what is sold for cast military figures and 'flats' is obviously suitable), then painted with enamel (not acrylic) - they can last a long time without oxidation, since oxygen won't go through the coatings.  I found a painted CW tin/lead soldier I cast as a boy over 50 years ago, and it is in perfect condition.  Antique figures can be so found, as long as the coatings don't get scratched or chipped.

 

  Any lead in these figures has been banned for some time, so tin based 'pewters' have been used.  95/5 tin/antimony is "out" these days because of the antimony.  Something like 2% copper is alloyed with tin ( to make Britannia metal), since pure tin degrades under freezing temperatures.  (Napoleon's soldiers buttons fell apart on the road back from Moscow.)  One can see 'Britannia metal' (tin-copper) plate wear over 200 years old on display in museums in excellent condition, whereas the cheaper stuff with lead go dark grey and can oxidize in high humidity.  Conclusion ... Britannia metal is fine without painting for centuries - now I'm not talking about buried in soil, which will ruin anything other than gold (or platinum).

 

  Some kits have zinc metal castings, since anything with lead these days is a no-no.  Zinc can likely take the same primer, although zinc chromate is the best.  Some early zinc cast toy locomotives had zinc with contaminants and suffered from an internal degradation that caused them to crumble from the inside in spite of coatings.  I'm talking about stuff from the 1920s and 30s.  Since then, there are no reports of 'bad' zinc.   Johnny

 

  

 

 

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

Posted

jaager-Johnny

 

thanks

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If you are able, cast your parts in Type R pewter (no lead). It flows well but it melts at 575 degrees F which will shorten your mold life. I believe  archivists classify as some pewters as archive grade.

Current Builds:

1/200 Arizona (Trumpeter) using Eduard  PE with extras  FINISHED!!!

1/48 USS Oneida 1809 DLumberyard "kit"

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hello dear new friends

I'm new on this forum (from France)

I received a Mamoli Britannia model, just splendid

My issue is that I don't have the Instruction notice

Any chance to find a Pdf or a scan somewhere ?
Thank you for your support

Posted (edited)
40 minutes ago, MOURADATOR said:

I'm new on this forum (from France)

I received a Mamoli Britannia model, just splendid

My issue is that I don't have the Instruction notice

Any chance to find a Pdf or a scan somewhere ?

Bonjour Moura,

You should start a post in the plans section here at MSW as you are looking for plans for the Mamoli model Brittania, not the metal called britannia. More members will see your post there than here.    https://modelshipworld.com/forum/13-discussions-for-ships-plans-and-project-research-general-research-on-specific-vessels-and-ship-types/   Did you contact the owner at Mamoli to get a set of plans?  With the fire seven years ago, most everything was lost but Daniel Dusek is a member here and you can PM him to see if there are still any plans.      https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13542-mamoli-model-kits-are-back/

Allan

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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