HMS Sophie by TBlack - kit-bashing Jack Aubrey's first command from the Vanguard Models HMS Speedy

[Keith Black]

 The new red looks good Tom.

[TBlack]

Next up is to make this bulkhead with companionway. My only references to companionways are Speedwell and Fair American. Speedwell seems a little too fancy for this craft.

If anyone has an idea, let me know.

I'm thinking that the companionway goes in the center which allows for two cabins on either side (Maturin, 1st Lieutenant) before the captain's cabin at the rear.

I want to thank so many of you who are following this modest attempt. As I look at what you are accomplishing, I'm in awe and hope I can keep up.

Tom

Edited February 8, 2023 by TBlack

[mtaylor]

23 minutes ago, TBlack said:

I want to thank so many of you who are following this modest attempt. As I look at what you are accomplishing, I'm in awe and hope I can keep up.

Tom

I think you're doing great.  It's not a race so don't sweat "keeping up".

[Oldsalt1950]

Center would be best based on the location of your gunports.

 

Jim

 

[TBlack]

17 hours ago, mtaylor said:

I think you're doing great.  It's not a race so don't sweat "keeping up".

Mark,

Not a race, right! But it is a question of quality and trying to measure up. Besides, according to NRG standards, this model shouldn't be built (being fictional), so I wonder if my membership will be revoked! With Jim's endorsement I'll go with a centered companionway. Notice Speedwell"s arrangement here:

Notice the ladders come down right at the cannon placement. I want to do the same thing.

[TBlack]

I can't use Speedwell as an example for ladder placement. Not enough room, so the center area will have to suffice for a ladder and a companionway.

 

So that means I only have to make one ladder, but I'll have to make two railings.

Tom

[mtaylor]

1 hour ago, TBlack said:

Mark,

Not a race, right! But it is a question of quality and trying to measure up. Besides, according to NRG standards, this model shouldn't be built (being fictional), so I wonder if my membership will be revoked!

 

 

If you get booted, there will bunches more for building kits that are fiction.  LOL.

 

3 minutes ago, TBlack said:

I can't use Speedwell as an example for ladder placement. Not enough room, so the center area will have to suffice for a ladder and a companionway.

 

So that means I only have to make one ladder, but I'll have to make two railings.

Tom

I'd opt for a double wide ladder in the center.   I like the idea of the putting the ladder there.  Will there be doorways on either side of the ladder?

[TBlack]

18 hours ago, mtaylor said:

I'd opt for a double wide ladder in the center.   I like the idea of the putting the ladder there.  Will there be doorways on either side of the ladder?

Mark,

I had envisioned that below the quarterdeck would look like this:

The center area of the bulkhead is where the ladder and companionway will go. Im going to put the companionway in the center (I've already cut the pieces for that), and the ladder will go to the side.

Tom

[mtaylor]

4 hours ago, TBlack said:

Mark,

I had envisioned that below the quarterdeck would look like this:

The center area of the bulkhead is where the ladder and companionway will go. Im going to put the companionway in the center (I've already cut the pieces for that), and the ladder will go to the side.

Tom

Sounds like a good plan, Tom.  

[TBlack]

OK, 5 foot door in. Ladder to Q-deck next

[TBlack]

I've made a ladder. Now my question is, should there be another one on the other side of the companionway to keep the symmetry?

[Keith Black]

Tom, the ladder and door look great.

 

 I think another ladder is required not only for symmetry but mainly to replicate the orderly flow of foot traffic especially during the heat of battle. To my way of thinking it seems only commonsense that any elevation requiring a ladder to gain access would have been built in pairs, one for up and one for down.  

Edited February 20, 2023 by Keith Black

[mtaylor]

I agree with Keith   Add another one.

[TBlack]

OK. Two ladders, now two balustrades to finish it off. These will be hand made with some stylist form, so may not exactly match. We'll see.

[Gus M]

Looks great!

[TBlack]

Thanks to you all for the support and the "likes". The box at the top right says there are 27 folks looking over my shoulder. I don't want to disappoint. I have always maintained that there are 2 kinds of logs: those that show what the builder did, and those that show what the builder did and how it was done, sorta like what Keith Aug does for us. I think this log has fallen into the former category, and in an attempt to up-grade let me describe my method for building ladders:

I use my mill (equipped with a DRO) and that the ladder will be the hypotenuse of a 30-60-90 triangle. I set the vice at 60 degrees to the X axis (such that the vice is pointed NE/SW) and, using a 1/32" end mill set to cut 1 mm deep inscribe (in this case) 4 channels in the stile held in the vice, moving the work along the X axis 4.33 mm each time. Flip the vice around so it's now pointing NW/SE and repeat the 4 cuts again at 4.33 mm separation. Turns out that the pear used to plank the hull is just the right size for the treads.

I'm onto balusters now. I have no dowels small enough to suit so I take what I have and make it smaller. Again using the mill and a rotary table:

center the rotary table under the spindle. The offset the table by the desired radius and turn the crank. That's the easy part straight round dowels are boring so to add a some feature  I put the dowel in the lathe and tried filing in some profile:

They are close in appearance. Maybe I'll make twice the required amount and pick the best. Any suggestions?

Tom

[Keith Black]

 Tom, a profile shaper?

[TBlack]

Keith,

I tried that approach with a razor blade attached to the tool post of my unimat lathe. The height is wrong and the blade flexes too much. Got any suggestions?

[mtaylor]

1 minute ago, TBlack said:

Keith,

I tried that approach with a razor blade attached to the tool post of my unimat lathe. The height is wrong and the blade flexes too much. Got any suggestions?

Do you have an old metal rule that's rusty/beat up and seldom if ever used and is sleeping in the botom of your toolbox?   

 

The razor could be sandwiched between two pieces of wood with just the cutting edge exposed.  How to mount it is the question.  I don't think holding it pliers in your hand will be steady enough.

[Keith Black]

1 hour ago, TBlack said:

Got any suggestions?

 Tom, due to the size and the required repetitive profile I would order the rail stanchions. I bought mine (brass) from Cornwall Model Boats in the UK but they have a $50.00 order min. I searched around to see what else was available on this side of the pond. I bet if you go through our approved vendor list and check for rail stanchions you'll find ample availability. 

 

 What is the length you need? 

 

https://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/Category/stanchions_c

 

https://www.historicships.com/product/walnut-stanchions-6mm/

[TBlack]

Keith,

You've got a good idea. I'll need around 10-12. They are 11 mm high. Model Expo has what I need, I think. Anyway, ordered a bunch of their stanchions. Thanks

TB

Edited February 22, 2023 by TBlack

[Keith Black]

You're more than welcome brother Tom, anytime. 

[TBlack]

I've gotten the balusters installed:

Before I put the rail on them I thought i would install the cap rail. I can't use the ones provided in the kit, because they are not the right shape. I need sheet stock 1/32" thick - not in my inventory. Which to buy pear or cherry. Pear is $12.50 per sheet and cherry is $5.00. I'll let you guess which one I've bought. While waiting for its arrival, I started working on deck furniture, specifically gratings. The metal etched gratings provided in the kit have openings that are 3"+ which I thought rather large, so I made my own:

My openings are 2" which is more to my liking.

Tom

[Keith Black]

 Tom, the balusters look good but if I may make a suggestion. The balusters closest to the companionway door pinch the ladder access just a tad. If you cut  /split a baluster in half and placed the smooth side on the companionway side it would do away with that pinched look. Just a thought from your well meaning little brother.  

 

 ps.. your grated hatch cover looks much much better than the PE cover provided.  

Edited March 3, 2023 by Keith Black

[TBlack]

Keith,

you mean the baluster at the top of the ladder? 

your bro

[Keith Black]

 Yes, the baluster at the top. I didn't see the baluster at the bottom, dah. Now that I DO see it, it pinches the door opening a bit. You could do away with the bottom baluster and run a rope handrail like they did in the Tennessee photo.

 

Edited March 3, 2023 by Keith Black

[TBlack]

Ooh! Much better solution, but I can’t  see how the rope is secured at the bottom. BTW, this is why mom always liked you best. She recognized your perspective and precision, not to mention your good looks!

[Keith Black]

 The rope attaches to an eye at the bottom of the ladder stringer. 

 

 Another photo of the same ladder.

Edited March 5, 2023 by Keith Black

[TBlack]

Keith,

I decided to use your idea on the rope lanyards for the ladders:

You'll also notice that I have installed the cap rail, the top rail on the transom and the gratings. The overall photo:

At this point I need to install the aft davits. Then the rest of the construct is pretty much the same as the kit with the exception of an elm tree pump in the bow (I have no idea why, but it's in the book.) The book also mentions royals which I am not going to include, having decided that O'Brian made a mistake.

[Keith Black]

 Tom, I think ladder 2.0 is much improved as access doesn't look pinched. The Sophie is gaining momentum and looking fantastic. Are the cabin walls either side of the ladders going to remain as they are now?