Keith Black Posted February 7, 2023 Share #151 Posted February 7, 2023 The new red looks good Tom. mtaylor, Knocklouder and TBlack 2 1 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted February 8, 2023 Author Share #152 Posted February 8, 2023 (edited) Next up is to make this bulkhead with companionway. My only references to companionways are Speedwell and Fair American. Speedwell seems a little too fancy for this craft. If anyone has an idea, let me know. I'm thinking that the companionway goes in the center which allows for two cabins on either side (Maturin, 1st Lieutenant) before the captain's cabin at the rear. I want to thank so many of you who are following this modest attempt. As I look at what you are accomplishing, I'm in awe and hope I can keep up. Tom Edited February 8, 2023 by TBlack Cathead, Keith Black, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 8, 2023 Share #153 Posted February 8, 2023 23 minutes ago, TBlack said: I want to thank so many of you who are following this modest attempt. As I look at what you are accomplishing, I'm in awe and hope I can keep up. Tom I think you're doing great. It's not a race so don't sweat "keeping up". Keith Black and Cathead 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldsalt1950 Posted February 8, 2023 Share #154 Posted February 8, 2023 Center would be best based on the location of your gunports. Jim Keith Black 1 Quote Current Build: Fair American - Model Shipways Awaiting Parts - Rattlesnake On the Shelf - English Pinnace 18Th Century Longboat I stand firmly against piracy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted February 8, 2023 Author Share #155 Posted February 8, 2023 17 hours ago, mtaylor said: I think you're doing great. It's not a race so don't sweat "keeping up". Mark, Not a race, right! But it is a question of quality and trying to measure up. Besides, according to NRG standards, this model shouldn't be built (being fictional), so I wonder if my membership will be revoked! With Jim's endorsement I'll go with a centered companionway. Notice Speedwell"s arrangement here: Notice the ladders come down right at the cannon placement. I want to do the same thing. Bill Morrison and Oldsalt1950 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted February 8, 2023 Author Share #156 Posted February 8, 2023 I can't use Speedwell as an example for ladder placement. Not enough room, so the center area will have to suffice for a ladder and a companionway. So that means I only have to make one ladder, but I'll have to make two railings. Tom ct mike, mtaylor, Cathead and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 8, 2023 Share #157 Posted February 8, 2023 1 hour ago, TBlack said: Mark, Not a race, right! But it is a question of quality and trying to measure up. Besides, according to NRG standards, this model shouldn't be built (being fictional), so I wonder if my membership will be revoked! If you get booted, there will bunches more for building kits that are fiction. LOL. 3 minutes ago, TBlack said: I can't use Speedwell as an example for ladder placement. Not enough room, so the center area will have to suffice for a ladder and a companionway. So that means I only have to make one ladder, but I'll have to make two railings. Tom I'd opt for a double wide ladder in the center. I like the idea of the putting the ladder there. Will there be doorways on either side of the ladder? Keith Black, CiscoH and Cathead 3 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted February 9, 2023 Author Share #158 Posted February 9, 2023 18 hours ago, mtaylor said: I'd opt for a double wide ladder in the center. I like the idea of the putting the ladder there. Will there be doorways on either side of the ladder? Mark, I had envisioned that below the quarterdeck would look like this: The center area of the bulkhead is where the ladder and companionway will go. Im going to put the companionway in the center (I've already cut the pieces for that), and the ladder will go to the side. Tom Oldsalt1950, Bill Morrison, Keith Black and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 9, 2023 Share #159 Posted February 9, 2023 4 hours ago, TBlack said: Mark, I had envisioned that below the quarterdeck would look like this: The center area of the bulkhead is where the ladder and companionway will go. Im going to put the companionway in the center (I've already cut the pieces for that), and the ladder will go to the side. Tom Sounds like a good plan, Tom. CiscoH, Keith Black, Bill Morrison and 1 other 4 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted February 16, 2023 Author Share #160 Posted February 16, 2023 OK, 5 foot door in. Ladder to Q-deck next mtaylor, BenD, Bill Morrison and 7 others 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted February 19, 2023 Author Share #161 Posted February 19, 2023 I've made a ladder. Now my question is, should there be another one on the other side of the companionway to keep the symmetry? Thukydides, Keith Black, ct mike and 6 others 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted February 19, 2023 Share #162 Posted February 19, 2023 (edited) Tom, the ladder and door look great. I think another ladder is required not only for symmetry but mainly to replicate the orderly flow of foot traffic especially during the heat of battle. To my way of thinking it seems only commonsense that any elevation requiring a ladder to gain access would have been built in pairs, one for up and one for down. Edited February 20, 2023 by Keith Black AJohnson, Cathead, Bill Morrison and 3 others 5 1 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 19, 2023 Share #163 Posted February 19, 2023 I agree with Keith Add another one. TBlack, AJohnson, Knocklouder and 2 others 4 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted February 21, 2023 Author Share #164 Posted February 21, 2023 OK. Two ladders, now two balustrades to finish it off. These will be hand made with some stylist form, so may not exactly match. We'll see. Gus M, KARAVOKIRIS, Cathead and 9 others 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus M Posted February 21, 2023 Share #165 Posted February 21, 2023 Looks great! mtaylor, Cathead, TBlack and 1 other 3 1 Quote Greetings Gus ------------------------------------------------------------------- Current build log: San Francisco Cross Section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted February 21, 2023 Author Share #166 Posted February 21, 2023 Thanks to you all for the support and the "likes". The box at the top right says there are 27 folks looking over my shoulder. I don't want to disappoint. I have always maintained that there are 2 kinds of logs: those that show what the builder did, and those that show what the builder did and how it was done, sorta like what Keith Aug does for us. I think this log has fallen into the former category, and in an attempt to up-grade let me describe my method for building ladders: I use my mill (equipped with a DRO) and that the ladder will be the hypotenuse of a 30-60-90 triangle. I set the vice at 60 degrees to the X axis (such that the vice is pointed NE/SW) and, using a 1/32" end mill set to cut 1 mm deep inscribe (in this case) 4 channels in the stile held in the vice, moving the work along the X axis 4.33 mm each time. Flip the vice around so it's now pointing NW/SE and repeat the 4 cuts again at 4.33 mm separation. Turns out that the pear used to plank the hull is just the right size for the treads. I'm onto balusters now. I have no dowels small enough to suit so I take what I have and make it smaller. Again using the mill and a rotary table: center the rotary table under the spindle. The offset the table by the desired radius and turn the crank. That's the easy part straight round dowels are boring so to add a some feature I put the dowel in the lathe and tried filing in some profile: They are close in appearance. Maybe I'll make twice the required amount and pick the best. Any suggestions? Tom Cathead, KARAVOKIRIS, yvesvidal and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted February 21, 2023 Share #167 Posted February 21, 2023 Tom, a profile shaper? mtaylor 1 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted February 21, 2023 Author Share #168 Posted February 21, 2023 Keith, I tried that approach with a razor blade attached to the tool post of my unimat lathe. The height is wrong and the blade flexes too much. Got any suggestions? Keith Black and mtaylor 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 21, 2023 Share #169 Posted February 21, 2023 1 minute ago, TBlack said: Keith, I tried that approach with a razor blade attached to the tool post of my unimat lathe. The height is wrong and the blade flexes too much. Got any suggestions? Do you have an old metal rule that's rusty/beat up and seldom if ever used and is sleeping in the botom of your toolbox? The razor could be sandwiched between two pieces of wood with just the cutting edge exposed. How to mount it is the question. I don't think holding it pliers in your hand will be steady enough. Cathead and Keith Black 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted February 22, 2023 Share #170 Posted February 22, 2023 1 hour ago, TBlack said: Got any suggestions? Tom, due to the size and the required repetitive profile I would order the rail stanchions. I bought mine (brass) from Cornwall Model Boats in the UK but they have a $50.00 order min. I searched around to see what else was available on this side of the pond. I bet if you go through our approved vendor list and check for rail stanchions you'll find ample availability. What is the length you need? https://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/Category/stanchions_c https://www.historicships.com/product/walnut-stanchions-6mm/ Cathead and mtaylor 2 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted February 22, 2023 Author Share #171 Posted February 22, 2023 (edited) Keith, You've got a good idea. I'll need around 10-12. They are 11 mm high. Model Expo has what I need, I think. Anyway, ordered a bunch of their stanchions. Thanks TB Edited February 22, 2023 by TBlack Keith Black, Bill Morrison, Cathead and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted February 22, 2023 Share #172 Posted February 22, 2023 You're more than welcome brother Tom, anytime. mtaylor 1 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share #173 Posted March 3, 2023 I've gotten the balusters installed: Before I put the rail on them I thought i would install the cap rail. I can't use the ones provided in the kit, because they are not the right shape. I need sheet stock 1/32" thick - not in my inventory. Which to buy pear or cherry. Pear is $12.50 per sheet and cherry is $5.00. I'll let you guess which one I've bought. While waiting for its arrival, I started working on deck furniture, specifically gratings. The metal etched gratings provided in the kit have openings that are 3"+ which I thought rather large, so I made my own: My openings are 2" which is more to my liking. Tom Gus M, ccoyle, yvesvidal and 4 others 6 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted March 3, 2023 Share #174 Posted March 3, 2023 (edited) Tom, the balusters look good but if I may make a suggestion. The balusters closest to the companionway door pinch the ladder access just a tad. If you cut /split a baluster in half and placed the smooth side on the companionway side it would do away with that pinched look. Just a thought from your well meaning little brother. ps.. your grated hatch cover looks much much better than the PE cover provided. Edited March 3, 2023 by Keith Black Knocklouder and mtaylor 2 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share #175 Posted March 3, 2023 Keith, you mean the baluster at the top of the ladder? your bro mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted March 3, 2023 Share #176 Posted March 3, 2023 (edited) Yes, the baluster at the top. I didn't see the baluster at the bottom, dah. Now that I DO see it, it pinches the door opening a bit. You could do away with the bottom baluster and run a rope handrail like they did in the Tennessee photo. Edited March 3, 2023 by Keith Black Knocklouder, CiscoH and mtaylor 3 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted March 4, 2023 Author Share #177 Posted March 4, 2023 Ooh! Much better solution, but I can’t see how the rope is secured at the bottom. BTW, this is why mom always liked you best. She recognized your perspective and precision, not to mention your good looks! Keith Black and Oldsalt1950 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted March 4, 2023 Share #178 Posted March 4, 2023 (edited) The rope attaches to an eye at the bottom of the ladder stringer. Another photo of the same ladder. Edited March 5, 2023 by Keith Black TBlack, mtaylor, CiscoH and 2 others 4 1 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted April 9, 2023 Author Share #179 Posted April 9, 2023 Keith, I decided to use your idea on the rope lanyards for the ladders: You'll also notice that I have installed the cap rail, the top rail on the transom and the gratings. The overall photo: At this point I need to install the aft davits. Then the rest of the construct is pretty much the same as the kit with the exception of an elm tree pump in the bow (I have no idea why, but it's in the book.) The book also mentions royals which I am not going to include, having decided that O'Brian made a mistake. Keith Black, BenD, yvesvidal and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted April 9, 2023 Share #180 Posted April 9, 2023 Tom, I think ladder 2.0 is much improved as access doesn't look pinched. The Sophie is gaining momentum and looking fantastic. Are the cabin walls either side of the ladders going to remain as they are now? mtaylor and Bill Morrison 2 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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