Cutty Sark by Kevin-the-lubber - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC

[Bill97]

Kevin that is a great idea the way you designed the deck sections to interlock like fingers to hide the seam. Reminds me a lot of a great deal ceramic tile I have laid over the years. 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Yes Bill, it works well. I've fiddled around with it over the last week or two, to see what works best i.e. line width, built in curve or flat and curve it with beams underneath afterwards, and settled on the latter the other day.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Having got the deck sorted out I've started working my way through the furniture. Originally I only intended to remake those parts which weren't so good in the kit but so far I've only used the hull! This is in part because Revell use a lot of half rounds for location pins, to stop us putting things on back to front, whereas printed parts usually need holes reamed out to size and it's as easy to remake the part as mess around filing. I'm sure I'll still use some of the fiddly bits though.

 

In the end I went for printing the deck flat on the FDM printer in the background as this gave the most satisfactory plank lines. All the pink stuff is resin printed, anything brown is filament. Horses for courses, and I've regained an appreciation of FDM. It certainly has it's place. I think there are probably enough shaped objects on the deck to pull it to the slight curved shape (it goes quite easily) but if not, I'll put some FDM printed curved beams underneath. The final photo is my first practice at weathering on a test print. I like this colouring, I know it's not at all true to life but it floats my boat. I silently thanked Marc many times for the inking tip, such a good medium for giving light and shade and so forgiving. Neither am I being too religious about accuracy or fidelity regarding the parts. I've made the aft cabin portholes a little larger, likewise the skylight panes, just 'cos it's my model and I'll jolly well do whatever I like 🙂. Once all the deck work is done I may think about some furnishings for the cabins, since I've opened the doors, and a false lower deck with something interesting down there, for depth and interest, leaving the hatch covers off.

 

 

[Hubac's Historian]

That walnut ink is magic, as far as I’m concerned.  Your deck sample has a subtly weathered appearance that I find very pleasing.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Couldn't agree more. I couldn't find walnut at the art shop so got some windsor & newton peat brown and nut brown, think peat is the darker of the two, which is what I've used so far. I especially like the way it 'spots' and settles into the slightest surface blemish, creating an illusion of texture. I'll try the lighter colour when I paint the roofs white, see if that picks out the plank lines without making the rest muddy.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

A use for those 0.5mm wires that come with the Victory. I sense that getting this 'just so' will be fun.

 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Well, painting the deck and tops didn't go at all as planned. I'm not really sure what I did differently, suspect when I did the test piece none of the colours had time to dry, it being relatively small, so when I added the ink it kind of softened and blended everything a bit. However, one sure thing is that it doesn't look in the least bit like plastic and I kind of like it. I've experimented a bit with different ink colours today. This has a top coat of windsor and newton sunshine yellow. I also tried brick red, which didn't go well at all.

 

[Hubac's Historian]

I also really like it, but I would go over it with a matte spray, once it is completely dry.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Indeed, that should knock it back a little. The good thing about acrylics, and inks for that matter, is that they’re easy to take off if the result is unpalatable.

[rwiederrich]

Lubbering Kevin....Good day my friend.  Wonderful 3D work indeed.  Hey...what *Ink* process are you using to highlight your woodwork?

 

I know when I built my last Revell Kit of CS,(12 years ago),  I used black india ink diluted in isopropyl alcohol.  Sprayed on it dried very quickly(the alcohol evaporates) and leaves a weathered look...where the ink capilates (Capillary action) into all the cracks.  Looks pretty cool....  Nice weathering technique.

 

Just wondering what you use ink for?

 

Wonderful job.

 

Rob

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Hi Rob. I'm just brushing the on ink liberally, which may not be the best way of doing things. On the test piece I know I inked on top of the basecoat, washed it into the plank lines with a wetted brush, then painted the plank lines, then lightly inked and washed again, then matt varnish. I must have had a large dose of beginners luck because I couldn't have wished for a better end result. I didn't do the washes yesterday, which was definitely a mistake. I expected the ink to blend the paints so didn't worry about being too precise, but as it didn't, it looks pretty poor up close. Having slept on it, while I'm sure I'll use yesterdays method elsewhere (the sides of the cabins, for the varnished hardwood effect), it won't do for the deck and cabin tops, it would be too overwhelming. So I'm re-printing the parts even as we speak. That's the benefit of 3D, all the hard work goes into the design stage and re-printing just takes a bit of time. A question - what makes the ink capilate into the cracks? Is spraying a more reliable method? I'm familiar with capillary action as I use this entirely for growing on seedlings but I can't think why the ink particles would get drawn into the cracks.

 

Side note - I must spend some more time on your Glory log, find the hull plans.

[rwiederrich]

5 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Hi Rob. I'm just brushing the on ink liberally, which may not be the best way of doing things. On the test piece I know I inked on top of the basecoat, washed it into the plank lines with a wetted brush, then painted the plank lines, then lightly inked and washed again, then matt varnish. I must have had a large dose of beginners luck because I couldn't have wished for a better end result. I didn't do the washes yesterday, which was definitely a mistake. I expected the ink to blend the paints so didn't worry about being too precise, but as it didn't, it looks pretty poor up close. Having slept on it, while I'm sure I'll use yesterdays method elsewhere (the sides of the cabins, for the varnished hardwood effect), it won't do for the deck and cabin tops, it would be too overwhelming. So I'm re-printing the parts even as we speak. That's the benefit of 3D, all the hard work goes into the design stage and re-printing just takes a bit of time. A question - what makes the ink capilate into the cracks? Is spraying a more reliable method? I'm familiar with capillary action as I use this entirely for growing on seedlings but I can't think why the ink particles would get drawn into the cracks.

 

Side note - I must spend some more time on your Glory log, find the hull plans.

Any crack attracts the alcohol ink.  It will flow easily when sprayed with a spray bottle.  You can also control the volume you wish to apply as well.  It dries matt and is a very good weathering technique as well.  I used this technique on all my plastic models.  On my wood models I use powders for weathering instead.  Do NOT use denatured alcohol or rubbing....it has additives that inhibit flow.  Use clear Isopropyl.

The great thing about using alcohol as the transport mechanism.....is, it evaporates and leaves the thinned out ink behind.  Leaving an almost dusty/dirty natural look.  You can speed up the drying time by way of a blow dryer or fan.

 

I'm enjoying your approach to building this classic....

 

Rob

[Kevin-the-lubber]

I’ll give spraying a go, I have plenty of isopropyl as I use it for cleaning resin prints. I think I’ll use a narrower range of shades/colours on the next go, drop the creams and burned umber, just vary the lighter browns.

[rwiederrich]

2 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

I’ll give spraying a go, I have plenty of isopropyl as I use it for cleaning resin prints. I think I’ll use a narrower range of shades/colours on the next go, drop the creams and burned umber, just vary the lighter browns.

Be patient with the process.    Remember, less is more.  
 

Good luck and I’ll be watching

 

Rob

[Bill97]

Kevin I have not been over here to your build for a few days. Amazing what you are doing here!  Absolutely beautiful deck work. This ink idea/process simply proves there is no limit or end to the ideas modelers can come up with in their builds. I have no idea what you guys are talking about but must investigate for future builds. After looking at your CS build I look at my CS, which at the time I did it I was pretty proud of, and now think “you are a sad sad looking model”.  Great work my friend. 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

On 2/15/2022 at 3:43 PM, rwiederrich said:

Any crack attracts the alcohol ink.  It will flow easily when sprayed with a spray bottle.  You can also control the volume you wish to apply as well.  It dries matt and is a very good weathering technique as well.  I used this technique on all my plastic models.  On my wood models I use powders for weathering instead.  Do NOT use denatured alcohol or rubbing....it has additives that inhibit flow.  Use clear Isopropyl.

The great thing about using alcohol as the transport mechanism.....is, it evaporates and leaves the thinned out ink behind.  Leaving an almost dusty/dirty natural look.  You can speed up the drying time by way of a blow dryer or fan.

 

I'm enjoying your approach to building this classic....

 

Rob

  Rob,  the most concentrated isopropanol commonly available is 90%.  I presume the 10% water content has no significant effect on the process, or is 100% possible to get?

[Hubac's Historian]

I would think common rubbing alcohol would work just fine.

[rwiederrich]

3 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Rob,  the most concentrated isopropanol commonly available is 90%.  I presume the 10% water content has no significant effect on the process, or is 100% possible to get?

Fortunately for me I use dental isopropyl alcohol and I believe it is higher grade and burns much cleaner.  I'm sure 90% will work fine.  Test it to see.

 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

3 hours ago, Hubac's Historian said:

I would think common rubbing alcohol would work just fine.

Problem with common rubbing alcohol is the additives.  In my experience it reacts poorly with the India ink and never gives the good results I found with 98%+   It surely doesn't burn well...not clean at all. Thusly...evaporation is not as clean and the ink suspension is poor as well.

 

Experiment and see for yourself.

 

Rob

[Kevin-the-lubber]

The stuff I buy is 99.9% pure, or so it says. The inks themselves are suspended in shellac, hence the glossy finish. Googling tells me it’ll dilute fine using IPA, but the water content in rubbing alcohol will cause it to go white. On my test piece the paint was probably still moist when I inked on top, and I guess that’s why (the water content) I got a degree of uniformity and didn’t have that shellac shine I got on the deck itself. So, serendipity and one I’m sure I’d struggle to reliably replicate. But I do now at least know that ink is the perfect medium for the glossy cabins, if I can control the clumping, though I imagine I could get the same effect with paint + ink + lacquer. I’ll be starting another deck today but will exercise more patience this time.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

15 hours ago, Bill97 said:

Kevin I have not been over here to your build for a few days

Bill, I’ve only been dipping in myself for the last week or so, I’ve been using up some annual leave allowance to work on the garden, my other hobby. I took a day out to visit the Cutty Sark itself on Wednesday. I need to figure out how to upload photos onto the web for all to find as I mostly took detail shots. Boy but there’s some rigging on that ship, I guess (hope) that the revell guide is a simplified version. Still, that’s a ways down the line yet.

 

Re’ the painting, I just did the same as you, used the Vallejo kit but got a strange result and not at all what I wanted! Nice as it is, I’m going to do it again and hopefully get something a bit less garish.

[Bill97]

Kevin that is so cool that you are able to visit the CS. When I built mine I read up so much on the restored old ship in its museum form. Did you walk under the bottom?  I think that would be very interesting. The only actual ship i have visited is the USS Constitution in Boston. Which by the way I understand had its first female commander assigned recently. All my builds so far are of ships I could visit if I traveled to them (which I would love to do), even the Wasa. The Soleli Royal unfortunately no longer exist. So when I start it there are no actual online photos. 

The Revell CS rigging instructions are far better than the Heller Victory. I don’t know if it is simplified compared to the actual ship or not. It still looks pretty good. 

Love your paint job. The discussion you were having about ink is what I was curious about. 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

It was worth seeing the detail up close and to also get a feel for it’s size. The muntz metal plating on the bottom is beautiful, it accentuates the curves of the hull. All the nicer that you’re sat immediately underneath as that’s the cafe area! The overlaps are very over-stated on the kit, if you were ultra detailing you’d have to draw or lightly etch these, and I’d be slightly tempted to sand back a bit except I’d lose the rivet heads. Even these were interesting; I’ve done more than my share of riveting, having worked on the airbus fuselages, and the style on the Cutty is very similar, flat head and only slightly proud. There are also a few things on the deck that make more sense now. All in all it’s a good ship to visit.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Quick question for you very experienced hands; I’m looking at using double-sided tape to glue the printed deck sections to a backing sheet of styrene. Are there any major pitfalls? Test piece suggests it’ll be just fine and is a better method than CA. I’ll explain the downsides of the CA method later.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Nothing to do with my build but just thought I'd share that Greenwich is allowing people to book to climb up to the cross trees on the Cutty Sark this year, for about £50. I saw riggers working on it a couple of weeks ago, imagine this is what they were setting up. I'll probably do it if only to get a close-up look at the rigging up there!

[Ian_Grant]

Wow I'd love to do that.......when I was aboard I wondered what would happen if I just did it......arrested I guess....

 

During Royal Clipper cruise they provide opportunity to ascend mainmast shrouds but only to the top. As this mast projects from the highest deck on the ship (thus lowest height above deck), and that side of the top is rigged through a lubber's hole as opposed to futtocks, it's not very exciting.

 

Hope the "Cutty Climb" becomes a perennial thing.

[Hubac's Historian]

On my working vacation to Batavia Werf, a good number of years ago, I had the opportunity to go aloft to Batavia’s main topmast top.  One of the volunteers was a professional climber -  Peter (?, if I remember correctly) Meijer and his son Jurrien.  They took me up there, one day, and it was simultaneously the most exhilarating and terrifying experience of my life!

Edited March 1, 2022 by Hubac's Historian

[Bill97]

Kevin I am very much afraid of heights but would surly have to suck it up for that opportunity. Will be anxious to hear your thoughts and see your photos when you do it. 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Now here’s a funny thing. I used to be a very keen climber and would cheerfully walk along a knife edge mountain ridge without the slightest worry. But these days it would scare the life out of me. But I will probably give this a go as and when I go back. Probably not very soon - unlike the Vic, there isn’t a tremendous amount of detail on the CS that I could carry across to and enhance a 1/96 model, other than the rigging, and for that I’ll probably tailor my ambitions to my abilities.

 

Update-wise, I’m experimenting with a few different approaches to painting the bigger pieces on the deck, but work and home projects have been taking priority lately. Hopefully I’ll get some time this weekend and have something worth posting.

[Ian_Grant]

9 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Now here’s a funny thing. I used to be a very keen climber and would cheerfully walk along a knife edge mountain ridge without the slightest worry. But these days it would scare the life out of me.

 

With age comes wisdom.............😏