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Secret Vessel "Morel" by John Gummersall - FINISHED - Master Korabel - Scale 1:36


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Robert952

 

I just used Minwax Wipe-on Poly - Clear Satin..   I mainly use it because it is applied with a rag instead of a brush as normal poly.   As such the finish is really smooth with no runs.   Also, even though it is listed as satin, as you can see there is still a slight shine to it.   To me just enough.  

To me wipe-on poly is a great way to get a good smooth finish.   But you have to use a number of coats as each coat is very thin.   I think I have 5 coats on this model.

 

I am not sure what wood is comes with the morel kit, but it's not basswood.   It is some other type of slightly colored wood.    As such for me no stain was required just applied the poly over the raw wood.   The 5 coats of poly also darken it up slightly despite the fact that it is "clear satin".

 

If you have not used a Wipe-on Poly you really need to try it.   It works great.   

 

One more point,,,, I have not tried this but wipe-on poly is really just normally polyurethane thinned to about 1/2 strength.    So if you already have some polyurethane and have some paint thinner or turpentine, you could make up yourself a small batch of "home grown" wipe-on poly and try it on a test sheet of wood.    Just make sure that you only use paint thinner or turpentine if you have oil based polyurethane.   If you have water base polyurethane you will need to thin that with a water based thinner.

 

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Whoa, that looks awesome John.  I am intrigued by your suggestion to open one side of the vessel up a little so you could see the interior.  Do you think the interior actually could be made to look interesting enough to deserve the effort, and do you have any ideas or recommendations for how to upgrade the interior?  We are spending more time in two locations these days, so it seems like I might be breaking my "one build at the time" rule and starting the Secret Vessel at the inland "dry dock", while finishing the Granado on the "island".

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HardeeHarHar

 

You bring up an interesting point as to whether there is enough room to add "stuff" to make it look interesting.    Below is a shot I took early in the build showing what is inside.    Inside you see two benches and a ladder.    As is, not a lot of room to add stuff... 

 

However, if you decided to open it up, you would have to be creative and modify the benches to allow access to the bow and stern sections.   In addition you would have to expand the floor sections to reach the box and stern.    There is where the model is not very realistic as you see,,,, no access to bow and stern sections.   Not shown here, but  the final pictures show ballast weights that from inside are dropped when the ship wants to rise to the surface.     Without access to the bow and stern sections, there is no way to release the ballast.   So, if you open up the full ship allowing free access from bow to sterns, there is plenty of room to get creative with some flooring, small figures, buckets, stools etc..

 

Whether you open it up or not, this is a fun quirky model to build, looks good, and is a good break from some of the longer "marathon" builds.     As I call it,.,,,,,   a quick win.

 

 

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Edited by John Gummersall
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  • 1 month later...

Very nicely done!

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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  • 5 months later...

@John Gummersall  Hey John, I am making some progress on the Secret Vessel I am building, and am wondering if you used the rivets from model motorworks.  Here is a link:  https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/products/rivet-1-0-mm-head-diameter-brass-z050b?_pos=15&_sid=459b9b624&_ss=r.  Also, I assume you just cut the head off and glue it on?  Thanks for any help you can provide, in addition to the wonderful information included in your build log.  I should have re-read it a few more times it turns out 😃  

Best regards,

Brian

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Brian,

 

Yes I used the 1.6mm and the 1.2mm rivets from Model Motercars.  Below is the exact description

          Item                                                           SKU     
          Rivet - 1.2 mm Head Diameter - Brass -    RT12
          Rivet - 1.6 mm Head Diameter - Brass -    RT16

 

1.6mm rivets are great for the larger ones, but I might suggest the 1.0mm or maybe even smaller for the smaller rivets.   As you can see on my model, the 1.2mm rivets kind of overwhelms the parts they attach to.   I think smaller would be better for those.    

 

As for the heads of the rivets, I cut off most of the shaft but left a little stub to insert into a drilled hole.   In order to do that you need a .5mm drill bit.   If you have one, then drill a small hole and with a touch of CA glue the rivet easily sticks into the hole.   If you do not have a .5mm bit then  you would have to cut off the head and attach with CA.

 

John

 

 

Edited by John Gummersall
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