2nd Planking & Stealer Question/Recommendation

[GGibson]

Hi all - Pretty novice shipbuilder here, on my 3rd build (the Ballahoo), and always learning and trying to research as much as I can.  With that said, I am working on the 2nd planking on the Ballahoo and have a question on how to finish with the best look (the hull will be painted).  I have learned a lot in reading info here on MSW, as well as on tutorials from experts like Chuck Passaro.  I am getting much better, for example, in the edge-wise plank bending process.  I am sanding strips close to what is needed at certain points of the plank depending on where it hits each of the beams.  I am still, though, going to have to add some stealers on this exterior planking to finish.  Here's what it looks like so far...

 

 

So, if I am going to add stealers, should they be staggered in different locations on the hull?  When I started the 2nd planking, the width of the planks at the bow needed to be in the 2.00-2.69mm range.  Didn't quite get there on some, so as I recalculate, the widths are getting even narrower.  Suggestions on how to finish, where to put stealers, etc.  I appreciate any input, criticism, etc.  Thanks...

 

Gregg

[allanyed]

If they are needed, normally there are stealers at the stern area as the planks widen as they move aft and drop strakes towards the bow as the strakes narrow.  The below shows a drop strake on a contemporary model at Preble Hall.

Allan

[Gregory]

The planking information and tutorials can be difficult to navigate; there is a lot to digest.

Buried in there somewhere is information on how to calculate the width of the planks from stem to stern.

 

You should determine how many planks are needed  amidships then measure the available space at the stem and sternpost.

You would then divide those spaces by the number of planks amidships, and that would tell you how wide the planks need to be at bow and stern.

 

 Typically the planks at the bow would need to be tapered to half their width or less.  At the stern they would need to be wider, and that is where stealers would be used

 

To avoid the planks being to narrow at the bow, you would utilize drop planks.

 

 

 

This illustration from Mondfeld calls the drop planks stealers, but the principal  is clear.

I have not seen the " English " method used at the bow on any plans or models, so Mondfeld may have the terms switched.

Allan's example above is like that shown on the right side, labeled " Dutch"

 

Note that 12 strakes have been reduced to 8.

 

It looks like at this point you would need a lot of drop planks to fit your amidship planking into the bow area.

I may not even be doable without having planks that taper to a point.

 

You will have to decide how you want to proceed, which could involve removing some of your existing work.

 

 

 

Edited March 17, 2022 by Gregory

[Katsumoto]

Hi Gregg,

 

You ran yourself in a "nasty" situation, but solvable. What I can see on your photo is the 3 strakes closest to the keel are at the bow not tapered or not enough tapered. So the other strakes left to place need to become too narrow at the bow and you need to work with drop planks like Allan showed you.

An alternative is to remove the 3 strakes including the garboard strake and recalculate the width of each strake per bulkhead and perhaps and re-do the work. Perhaps no drop planks are needed if you do this. I can't tell from this position.
Please, read my post about tapering and planking during the build of my Santa Maria or Cazador. I think this will help you on your way. 
Both can be found here:

 

 

good luck and nice model btw. 

[GGibson]

Thanks to allanyed, Gregory, and Katsumoto for each of your pictures, links and suggestions on how to fix/proceed.  I am continuing to learn, even if there are a few failures along the way.  I appreciate your input.  I'll let you know how it turns out.  Thank you all.

[allanyed]

FWIW, I think Katsumoto has given the best advice, remove the planks and start over.  It is hard to tell from the photo but it appears the garboard runs too far up the stem.  It should end at about the forward end of the boxing joint otherwise the planking winds up looking like a Viking ship and there is not enough room to fit the planks unless you taper them too much and use a lot of drop strakes.  If done properly, there is no need for more than one or two drop strakes, if any at all.

Good luck.

Allan 

[tlevine]

I agree.  Remove the lower strakes of planking.  Then, draw the runs of the planks on the hull.  This is the easiest way to determine the amount of taper required and whether stealers are needed.  Remember that you never want a plank less than half the width.  That is when a dropped plank would be needed.