US Brig Syren by rtropp - Model Shipways - 1:64

[Charley54]

Hey Richard- I checked through my kit and I see what you mean.I dont see any specifically supplied wood. I looked at Dirk's build log and see that he cut his out of some after-market pear wood. I wish I could shed some light on this. I havent made it nearly this far yet but I will be very interested in the pending solution.

 

Charley

[rtropp]

I had a sheet of it from a purchase early in the build. One of the other Syren's mentioned early on that there were a few parts not included and was kind enough to list them.

So I bought it and had it sitting in my wood box.

 

You gotta love this site

Richard

[NWdiverTodd]

Hi Richard, I can't find the post that has a list of missing parts, or things that you should buy extra.

Do you remember whose log had the info?  I tried a search but failed :-)

I think I am missing the top most piece of the long boat. The book shows 5 plus bottom with the upper lift quite a different shape. The plans show four. 

Thanks,

 

-Todd

[rtropp]

It was from the first entry in Mark F's Syren build.

 

Basically he found that...

"Wood not included with kit

15. 5/32 x 1/32 wood strips (at least 2 for upper whales)

16/ 12 x 6 x 1/16 Basswood sheet for bulwark rails.

17. Balsa for bulkhead filler blocks."

 

By this he meant that it was not supplied at all. For instance, #16 is the sheet from which Chuck indicates the bulwark rails should be cut.

 

As for other missing parts, a few of us have experienced this with various components. A really nice thing about Model Expo is that they will replace any parts from their own line of Kits. They replaced not only missing parts but parts that I have messed up. No Charge... very nice. Just find the part numbers in your inventory/parts list and send that to them. It take a while to receive but a friendly reminder now and then does wonders.

 

As for the items 15, 16, and 17 above, they will need to be purchased. Not really too expensive so for me not a big deal. In fact, not sure if I ordered them or picked them up at my local Hobby Lobby.

 

 

 

Richard

 

Richard

Edited December 23, 2013 by rtropp

[NWdiverTodd]

Perfect!  I don't really care about the cost, it is more the frustration of finding that I don't have something I need to move forward :-)

This whole thing is new enough to me that I can't plan ahead as well as I would like.

Thanks to this forum and folks like you, I'm gonna give it a try and see how it goes.

I guess I'll have to start a log today.

Thanks,

 

-Todd

[rtropp]

Hi all,

Happy holidays and a wishing you all a great new year.

 

Time for my next update. I have completed the inner planking. I decided to try this a little differently after my frustrating experience trying to keep the ports squared on the outer planking. I thought I would try to pre-fabricate the planking sections and see if that went any better... it did.

 

I first installed the 3/16" bulwark plank along the bottom. I now realize the importance of the first planking on the outer side and the level of the sills. I must have had it a little off because I did have to cut the bulwark a little to leave the proper space between that first inner plank and the gun port. I am not yet sure how that will impact the decking... but I guess I will find out pretty soon. It was only a little off so hopefully the camber will be ok without too much fiddling.

 

 

Then I cut planks to fit between the portholes and held together with tape. you can see that the edges are still uneven at this point.

 

I used my bench disk sander to reduce the edges to the proper fit. Doing the fitting this way allowed me to easily keep all the edges of all planks in the section even to fit squarely to the ports.

 

 

The result was fairly even planking on the inward side of the bulkwarks.

 

 

Finally I added the topmost plank to complete the inward planking.

 

At his point I forgot to take pictures, so I am adding a picture of the work after it was painted and with the cap rail installed.

 

 

I am now finishing working on the cap rail. I read Chuck's note about advanced modelers trying to create the beading on the 1/16" stip. I warn you all now that his adding that was a heinous act of sadism.

I asked my wife to go through the practicum and blank out all paragraphs that began with "... advanced modelers might want to..."

Don't tell Chuck, but I ordered two dozen pizzas and gave them his address for delivery. Hah!!

 

Seriously, I will show how I finally worked it out in my next post. It wasn't really all that difficult and did not require any special jigs. It just required a very.. very soft touch. I don't think you can even see the beading in the photos I will post, but you can see it in the model itself... and its kinda nice.

 

Richard

Edited December 27, 2013 by rtropp

[NWdiverTodd]

Very nice!  Building the inner planking that way looks much easier to control.

It is really nice to have you a bit in front of me, that way I might make fewer mistakes :-)

What red paint are you using?  It looks like you sprayed it?

 

-Todd

[rtropp]

Todd,

 

I do use an airbrush.

The paints are Modelflex Marine Airbrush Paints by Badger.

 

I like the airbrush because I find it easier to do light coats and save the details in the item painted. I tried reducing the acrylic paints sold by Model Expo as well as others but it was difficult... a real pain getting just the right mix and I ended up with a lot of airbrush clogging. The Badger paints are already cut for the airbrush and I found them very easy to use. I selected them because they have a line of paint, the Modelflex Marine colors that are specific to marine models such as the ships we do. Being new, they can be hard to find as they do not seem to be widely used yet.

Also, using acrylic, I do not worry a lot about ventilation and they are easy to clean without strong chemicals. Easy cleaning is important because my painting sessions are very short.

Richard

Edited December 28, 2013 by rtropp

[NWdiverTodd]

Thanks Richard! I think using an airbrush will add a neat dimension to modeling. I'll order up some of the modelflex paints and see how it goes.

[rtropp]

The line of paints I use is the modelflex Marine. There are some equivalents in their railroad line but not many.

The only place I found the paints for sale online from http://shop.webairbrushes.com. The colors I ordered were:

 

Qty | Item # | Description | Price Each | Total Price

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

1 | 16-431 | 16-431 Deck Red | $3.40 | $3.40

 

1 | 16-457 | 16-457 Dull Coat | $3.40 | $3.40

 

1 | 16-410 | 16-410 Navy White | $3.40 | $3.40

 

1 | 16-412 | 16-412 Hull Black | $3.40 | $3.40

 

1 | 16-414 | 16-414 Bulwarks Red | $3.40 | $3.40

 

1 | 16-413 | 16-413 Wrought Iron Black | $3.40 | $3.40

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

hope this helps.

 

Richard Tropp

[NWdiverTodd]

Thanks again Richard!  It is really nice to have the whole list.

I ordered from http://www.megahobby.com/modelflexpaintmarinecolors1ozbottlesbadger.aspx They have a really nice webpage for the paint. 

The price is $3.02 per bottle.

I looked at badger's site, and they want $16 per bottle!!

I read about using india ink for the black so I picked up a bottle, it looks really nice on my test pieces, works like stain but it seems like I can touch it up and it doesn't show the rework.  I might try this.  I'm a little worried that it will follow the grain so touch up near another color might be an issue.

 

-Todd

[rtropp]

This update will cover the cap rail.

 

I obtained a 1/16" sheet of basswood and copied one side from the plans. using a digital caliper to check the width I drafted the second line using a compass.

 

 

I rough cut the shape using my scroll saw.

 

 

final shaping used a table sander for the outer edge and the dremal sander for the inner curve. You can see my rigged vacuum. I try to be diligent about running a vacuum when sanding. First of all, I work in the sunroom and need to control that sort of thing since it is part of the house. Second, who wants to breath that stuff?

 

 

finally ended up with:

 

 

Now came the interesting part. I decided to attempt the 1/16 x 1/16 edge to the cap rail with a beaded finish per Chuck's note about advanced builders. ( I am not an advanced builder by any means but figured I should at least try.) After a couple of false starts I decided on a very simple approach that turned out to be surprising effective.

I used a divider, opened at half the width of the piece to score the center of the wood going ... very... VERY gently. The I alternated between a dental pick and sanding stick. I went over the edges lightly to give them the outside curves and then use folded sandpaper that I kept slightly opened with my finger in the center of it, to model the inner curves from the scored line. I have to emphasize that I have never worked with so light a touch. I am amazed that my ham handed grip was able to accomplish it.

 

 

This shot is before dusting and painting. Whenever possible I paint before adding to the ship. I use an airbrush which I think leaves the really fine details showing without paint build up obscuring it. Its just easier to do a little touch up later as required. anyway, I could not get the beading to show well once painted. It is noticeable when viewing the actual ship and I think it adds a really nice touch of realism.

 

 

finally mounted on the ship with glue. One of the nice things about using wood laundry clips is that you can cut the tips to shape in order to clamp in some difficult spots. (and they are cheap.)

 

 

Touching up black parts has become a lot easier once I have found this stain in a felt tip pen. It is almost unnoticeable once it dries.

 

 

I am glad I tried the beading and believe that I will attempt most of Chuck's hints for advanced builders. Heck, how else will I learn?

 

We'll see if I still feel that way after trying to joggle the deck planks

 

A happy new year to all.

Richard

[Charley54]

Thanks for sharing your process, Richard. In reading ahead in the instructions- I have gone over this several times but still was not sure. Your pictures help. Syren sure looks fine when she gets her cap on. Looks great.

 

Charley

[NWdiverTodd]

Nice job on the cap rail!  The bead looks perfect.  

How wide a piece of wood do I need to do the cap rail?  I want to order it in advance.

The stain pen is cool!  Did you fill it with black paint or does it come with a close enough color?

 

-Todd

[rtropp]

Todd,

I believe that is the 1/16" sheet that I mentioned in an earlier email about additional materials. The one I used is four inches wide but I was able to make two rails from the one piece.

 

The beading is done on a second piece of 1/16x1/16" and is supplied with the kit.

 

The pen comes pre-filled with stain that was good for touchups on the airbrushed black I used. Perhaps just lucky to get the match but pleased about it anyway. This company also makes a paint pen but it seemed more noticeable when touching up.

Richard

Edited January 6, 2014 by rtropp

[NWdiverTodd]

Thanks Richard :-)

I wondered what the minimum width needed to make the cap rail, they didn't have boxwood in 4" widths.  I measured it when I got home and it looks like ~2.5"

Thanks as always for showing your process, it is VERY helpful to me.

 

-Todd

[rtropp]

Todd,

I used Basswood. I decided that, since this is my first kit, I would not buy expensive woods but use the ones that came with it. My next build will probably use boxwood, pear and a few others.

 

The width is a hair over two inches. You should be able to find 3" boxwood at hobbymill and probably at dlumberyard.

 

Richard

[NWdiverTodd]

Thanks Richard. I am totally with you on not spending another $100 on pretty woods for a first build.  Well, I say that but...  I was planning on just ordering boxwood for the planking above the wales, then I was thinking, it's not THAT much more to grab some holly for the deck, and I might grab some for the cap rail, and perhaps a bit of beech for the stern, and, and , and...

So, now I'm ordering some wood to play with.

Thanks to your pictures, I have to run down and buy the dremel "router" table.  I've been using a spindle sander, but the dremel will fit in my ship work area and i'll have better control with smaller pieces. At least that's what I'm telling myself.

What do you think of your proxon jigsaw?  I like the small footprint.

 

-Todd

[rtropp]

Todd,

The dremel router table is one of the few accessories from Dremel that I continue to use, but it is such a pain in the neck to change anything that I pretty much keep the dremel attached to it and use my older dremel (forty years older) for other work. But, the table's small size and speed control make sanding smaller parts pretty easy, especially once you remove the guide and guard. I do have a mini mill and I will be getting a larger sanding drum to use on it to sand larger curves. I am still learning how to use all these new tools, which is turning out to be half the fun.

 

I am pleased with the proxxon jigsaw. I use it a lot and it does the job. I have only had to re-attach blades twice and now that I have that process down it is pretty quick and easy. With most of my power tools I tend to work at slower speeds and slower feed rates to increase my control... at least while I am learning, so I like the proxxon's variable speed. I attached it to piece of MDF with a vibration pad between the saw and the MDF base. Then I just clamp it to the work table when I need it. My work shop is getting cramped so I need to look at how I organize it. The mill and table saw will need to be permanent so everything else has to be moveable to make sure I have enough clear space around the tools to work without distraction.

 

On the issue of wood replacement, just this past week I firmed up my decision to continue with what is supplied with the kit, especially with Model Expo replacing the parts I screw up. It makes the learning experience less daunting and less expensive. I am more prone to keep trying to get things right knowing I have that safety net for replacement parts. For instance, I am in my second attempt at deck planking. I am pre fabricating it off the ship so it is easier to work, and correct. I had to send to Model Expo more for more wood and it arrived five days after I emailed the order. Boy did they get their act together. I am now glad I bought my first kit from them. I don't think anyone else has this guarantee.

 

Hopefully in a couple of days I will be posting pictures of my build with the deck planked.

 

Richard

[rtropp]

Hi all,

I am still working on the deck. The jogging is not coming out as I had hoped and I am reworking it... again.

 

Meanwhile, I found this video on a different site and thought it might be of interest. It is time lapse of a full size tall ship being built. One of the things I liked is it helped me better understand the scale of models to a full size ship.

 

 

Hope you enjoy it.

 

Richard

Edited January 21, 2014 by rtropp

[egkb]

Thank You for posting that Richard, really brings home the scale of those beasts ! the timbers are immense, I watched two Irish 'Tall' Ships being built from the ground up, but their scantlings would not come near that one, those Knees are impressive. 

The head room aboard surprised me, was she adapted and built to a modern persons height, or are the plans 'all new' do you know?

 

Eamonn

[NWdiverTodd]

Wow!! Cool video.  I can't even imagine how much more difficult it would have been without some modern tools and cranes.

It really made me think about how much of an investment every ship was to a country.

[Tigerdvr]

Thanks for posting, inspirational-

[kscadman]

Hi Richard, I found your log and its coming along great. I agree with Augie, prestain works miracles on the basswood. I was afraid to use a 50/50 mix if I needed to rework anything. So I made sure to sand with a 320 grit then let the prestain soak for at least an hour. On my deck I used the same process except I used the natural stain.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Richard

[rtropp]

Hi all,

Just a quick note. I did not like my second attempt at the deck so I started the third. Then I received a call to see if I would consider taking on a project with a client in houston. ( I live in atlanta). I ended up agreeing so I am taking a break from my retirement. I am commuting each week so have not been able to devote much time to my build.

I did have some success using a draw plate while working on the second iteration of the deck and will post some pictures as I get time during the week.

 

Richard

[rtropp]

Richard,

Thanks for the tip. I had not let the prestain soak that long. I used a cloth to apply it then followed its directions to wipe off excess after 10-15 minutes. Then I let it dry. What do you mean when you say you let it soak?

 

Richard

[dgbot]

Nothing wrong with making a few dollars.

David B

[rtropp]

David,you're right. Heck I'm not done buying toys... Er I mean... Tools.

Richard

[ronald305]

Hi Richard 

  Like what you doing with your Syren    I would like to know where did you get the pins with the red heads on them 

                           Ronald 

[rtropp]

Ronald

rcbuyerswarehouse.com

Product Name Part No. Quantity Item Price Total Price

Modeling Pins, 50 HL-MO0002 2 $6.99 $13.98

richard