Rigging an anchor - mid 1700's to late 1700's

[LyleK1]

If there is a thread on this subject, please direct me to it as I have not been able to find anything real helpful!

 

I am rigging my anchors for the Bounty... tying the anchor rode is not a problem and the associated hardware is not a problem.

My problem arises from how to properly rig the anchor for stowage using the cathead sheaves and the pulley block on the anchor.

Can someone provide a diagram or walk me through it?

 

Thanks in advance for the help!

[allanyed]

Which anchors Lyle?  I believe there should be four at the bow, two port, two starboard.   There are a number of detailed drawings, photos and text in David Lees' book for one.  I am not near my books  or would give you some better explanation.  Hopefully some member can help with some details for you without violating Mr. Lees copyrights.    

 

Allan

[LyleK1]

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Which anchors Lyle?  I believe there should be four at the bow, two port, two starboard.   There are a number of detailed drawings, photos and text in David Lees' book for one.  I am not near my books  or would give you some better explanation.  Hopefully some member can help with some details for you without violating Mr. Lees copyrights.    

 

Allan

Unless I've looked in the wrong spot, Lee's book has a vague drawing and not much more.

I have the book... I also have Peterson's book.

I can figure it out if I play with it a bit but figured someone might be able to show me the correct method.

According to the Anatomy book, the Bounty had 5 anchors... the kit came with two and since my version is after she arrived in Tahiti but before she was burned, it will have two anchors!

One was lost and one was cut free by Fletcher, if I remember correctly. The last one was a "sheet" anchor.

[allanyed]

Not sure, but perhaps Lavery or Goodwin have some details.    The photos of the contemporary models  in Lees' book are pretty detailed.  Again I am stuck without my books while away on vacation so not much help.    Below are some photos of contemporary models at Preble Hall that I took some years back that may help you.  

Allan

 

[LyleK1]

Thanks Allan.

I’ll take closer look in the morning 

[Dr PR]

Darcy Lever's "Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor" (section 69) describes catting and fishing the anchor. This is a general description but probably represents the common method for handling the anchor on British and American vessels in the 19th century.

 

The cat tackle (cathead sheaves, cat block and hook) are used to raise the anchor up under the cathead (this is "catting the anchor"). Then a stopper (rope) is used to secure the arms (top) end. One end of this stopper is either secured around the cathead ot reeved through a hole in the cathead with knots to prevent the rope from pulling through. The loose end of the stopper is run through the anchor hoop and then secured to a timberhead on the rail or a stout cleat attached to the cathead.

 

After the stopper is secured the cat tackle can be removed from the anchor. The stopper supports the and of the anchor. However, it seems to be more common in ship models to leave the cat tackle attached to the anchor hoop. Even so, the tackle is not supporting the anchor and is slack.

 

A separate fish tackle is used to raise the fluke end of the anchor. The fish tackle and boom are temporary rigs and are stowed after the anchor is raised, so they are not usually modeled. But the "fish hook" on the end of the fish tackle is hooked under the inner arm of the anchor and the tackle hauls the fluke end up to the rail (this is "fishing the anchor").

 

Then the shank painter (another stopper of rope or chain) is looped around the anchor shaft and the crown (where the fluke arms meet the anchor shaft). One end of the shank painter is secured to a timber head on the rail (or a stout cleat on smaller ships). The running end is hauled up and secured to another timber head or cleat. Then the fish tackle is removed. The inner fluke arm was often brought up and over the rail, while the stock (wooden arms at the top) are pulled flat against the hull.

 

When the anchor is stowed this way the head is supported by the stopper on the cathead and the fluke end is supported by the shank painter. On some ships the anchor cable was removed from the anchor hoop and stowed below but most models show the cable still attached.

 

Dropping the anchor was more or less the opposite procedure. The anchor was suspended below the cathead by the stopper, and the anchor was dropped by releasing the end of the stopper that was attached to the cleat or timberhead.

Edited April 1, 2022 by Dr PR

[LyleK1]

Good info!
Thanks Allan and Phil.

[Roger Pellett]

It depends on the story that you are trying to tell with your model.  The anchor was (obviously) a massive object that if loose could cause huge damage to a ship in a seaway.  Furthermore, during most of a deep sea voyage the vessel did not carry cable sufficient to drop the anchor.  Therefore, once the ship left soundings the anchor would be securely lashed fore and aft  to a solid member.  The cable would also be disconnected and stored below. 

 

At the end of the voyage the process would be reversed, but the anchor would not be allowed to dangle from the Cathead until shortly before dropping.

 

A model with all sails set and an anchor rigged to the Cathead is, therefore, an oxymoron.  So is one with no sails set or otherwise rigged and the anchor rigged, as in this case the anchor would be on the bottom of the Harbor.

 

It would, therefore, seem that the anchors on models shown above by Alan represent modelers conventions instead of demonstrations of actual seamanship.

 

Roger

[LyleK1]

12 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

It depends on the story that you are trying to tell with your model.  The anchor was (obviously) a massive object that if loose could cause huge damage to a ship in a seaway.  Furthermore, during most of a deep sea voyage the vessel did not carry cable sufficient to drop the anchor.  Therefore, once the ship left soundings the anchor would be securely lashed fore and aft  to a solid member.  The cable would also be disconnected and stored below. 

 

At the end of the voyage the process would be reversed, but the anchor would not be allowed to dangle from the Cathead until shortly before dropping.

 

A model with all sails set and an anchor rigged to the Cathead is, therefore, an oxymoron.  So is one with no sails set or otherwise rigged and the anchor rigged, as in this case the anchor would be on the bottom of the Harbor.

 

It would, therefore, seem that the anchors on models shown above by Alan represent modelers conventions instead of demonstrations of actual seamanship.

 

Roger

Good points…

I plan to display the model as at anchor but ready to depart.

Sails will be furled… at least mostly.

Since the Bounty has 4-5 anchors, showing  two either hanging from the cat heads or stowed to the timbers  and attached to the cat heads seems like a feasible look.

Thanks for the comments.

[Gregory]

9 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

It depends on the story that you are trying to tell with your model.

That's the take away for me..

 

I'm sure the average non model builder, in the absence of visible anchors, would be saying " where are those anchor thingies? "

[Dr PR]

Of course if the ship is tied up to a dock the sails would be furled (unless they were drying) and the anchor would be stowed (not hanging from the cathead).

 

But when anchoring a sailing ship some of the sails were flying in order to maneuver the ship and the anchor would be hanging from the cathead prior to dropping. DArcy Lever's "The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor" describes the procedure for dropping and raising anchor.

 

One of my complaints about the movie "Master and Commander," which I enjoy very much, is that in one scene they show the ship running mid ocean with the anchor dragging in the water! That would reduce the ship's speed, acting as a "sea anchor" although that is something entirely different.

[allanyed]

Phil,

I had never noticed that scene, so now I have an excuse to watch the movie for perhaps the 50th time.  Thanks for the tip!!

Allan