US Brig Niagara by Abelson - Model Shipways - 3/16" scale

[abelson]

In my earlier post, I talked about the eyebolts in the top of the Main and Fore Tops. In reviewing the plan sheets, I discovered that I missed an eyebolt in the Fore Top for the Main Topgallant Stay Lead (Detail 5-D). So, the Fore Top has 5 eyebolts. On the port side there are 3 eyebolts: the Main Topgallant Stay Lead Tackle, and the Topgallant Halliard tackle and the Topsail Reef Tackle (Detail 6-F). On the starboard side there are 2 eyebolts: the Reef Tackle and the Main Royal Stay Lead Lanyard (Detail 5-F). Note: The Topgallant Stay Tackle is made up with a fiddle block. Fiddle blocks are not included in the kit. The Main Top has 3 eyebolts, 2 on the port side for the Topsail Reef Tackle and the Topgallant Halliard tackle, and 1 on the starboard side for the Topsail Reef Tackle. I found the plan sheets to be a little confusing relative to the number and location of eyebolts on the Tops - I hope I've clarified that. 

 

I think I’ve completed all of the blocks that get attached to the Fore and Main Tops and Mast caps (see photos). Most noteworthy are the 3/16” single Topping Left Blocks. A note on Sheet 5 says the blocks are stropped over the aft crosstrees and seized around the mast. The only way that this could be done is if there is opening in the Top, which there is not, to allow the block strop to pass over the crosstree as shown on the rigging profile. These blocks on the actual Niagara ship pass over the top (see photo). That’s the way that I set mine up.  At this point in the build, I’m going to try to set up the blocks and the bullseyes that are attached to eyebolts in the deck.

Edited June 2, 2023 by abelson
Add photo

[Sergey Karelia]

good job! but the blocks on the exelhoft must be moved forward. and so the rigging yards will cross the shrouds. I drew a picture

I will make yards blocks like yours. that's cool😎

 

[Ferrus Manus]

@Isaiah build logs like this one here will help you immensely in your Perseverance build. I would recommend asking more questions than comments. Everyone here would be more than willing to provide help, and most would be better at synthesizing information than i am. 

[Sergey Karelia]

I just wanted to help because I made the same mistake myself.

then I redid it

[abelson]

On 5/29/2023 at 12:44 PM, Sergey Karelia said:

good job! but the blocks on the exelhoft must be moved forward. and so the rigging yards will cross the shrouds. I drew a picture

I will make yards blocks like yours. that's cool😎

 

Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I can see that the blocks need to be aligned with the yard arms.  I hadn't permanently affixed the blocks, so this was easy fix (see photos).

Edited May 31, 2023 by abelson

[abelson]

On 5/30/2023 at 12:26 AM, Ferrus Manus said:

@Isaiah build logs like this one here will help you immensely in your Perseverance build. I would recommend asking more questions than comments. Everyone here would be more than willing to provide help, and most would be better at synthesizing information than i am. 

Not sure where you're coming from, as I'm not building the Perseverance. I'll take your recommendation as a subtle putdown.

[ccoyle]

18 minutes ago, abelson said:

Not sure where you're coming from, as I'm not building the Perseverance.

 

He's recommending your build log as a resource for a rookie builder working on a different kit. It's actually a bit of a compliment.

[Ferrus Manus]

I am using your work as an example of what to do, to someone who is building a ship from a similar time period. I am attempting to find similar build logs made by experts (yourself) to illustrate rigging concepts for my friend, who has never rigged a model ship. Personally, i think your work is top-notch, and i can only aspire to reach similar heights. 

[abelson]

11 hours ago, ccoyle said:

 

He's recommending your build log as a resource for a rookie builder working on a different kit. It's actually a bit of a compliment.

I guess I misinterpreted the comment. Yes, it would be a complement.

[abelson]

11 hours ago, Ferrus Manus said:

I am using your work as an example of what to do, to someone who is building a ship from a similar time period. I am attempting to find similar build logs made by experts (yourself) to illustrate rigging concepts for my friend, who has never rigged a model ship. Personally, i think your work is top-notch, and i can only aspire to reach similar heights. 

Well, thank you. I don't consider myself to be an expert model ship builder, though I have done several. Each model has it's own level of difficulty that requires performing tasks that you may not have done before - it's a perpetual learning experience.

[milosmail]

Top notch work. I enjoy the read, as I am about 3 months behind you. I should be into the eybolt/block business shortly.

 

[abelson]

Stropped the lower 3/16” closed heart for the Main Preventer Stay and attached it to the eyebolt in the Bow Sprit Bitts. I used 30 gauge wire for the “iron strop” and a Syren closed heart. Added the iron stropped 3/32" bullseyes (not furnished with the kit) for the Main Mast Stay and Spring Stay Lead. I used 28 gauge wire to strop the bullseyes. Added the 1/8” hooked blocks for the Main & Fore Course Yard Lifts. The 3mm hooks are from Crafty Sailor. Next on the To Do List, the Fore & Main Top Mast Crosstrees.

Fashioned the Top Mast Crosstrees. The thickness of the straight and curved members of the laser cut Crosstrees are slightly thinner than the plan. Consequently, there’s a gap between the straight and curved crosstree members and trestle tree notch. I filled the gap at the curved crosstree member with wood filler. I will make the bolsters slightly longer to cover the gap at the straight crosstree member. Holes have to be drilled in the laser cut crosstree and the aft crosstree for the futtocks shrouds. The plans call for the shrouds to be .016” line. The kit is not furnished with .016” line. I’m planning on using .018” line purchased from Syren. The crosstrees are very thin so, before drilling the holes, I applied CA to the ends of the crosstrees to prevent them from splitting. I primed the crosstrees and spray painted them black. Next, I stropped the four 1/8” single blocks for the bunt lines and leech lines and two 5/32” single blocks for the top sail halliards and seized them to the straight bar of each forward crosstree. I used the kit supplied blocks. They’re not as pretty as the Syren blocks, but they serve the purpose. Note:  Be sure to check the orientation of the blocks before seizing them. The bolsters were added and the crosstrees were permanently attached to the top mast. Just as a matter of observation, the scale of the crosstrees appears to be out of proportion with the rest of the ship. Also, as a reminder, if you fashion the crosstrees off mast and install the collar with thimble on the fore mast, as I did, you will need to hold off installing the chock in the trestle tree until after you slide the crosstree over the top mast. The alternative would be to install the collar after the across tree is installed. Next up, the Topgallant Royal Masts.

 

Edited June 10, 2023 by abelson

[abelson]

23 hours ago, milosmail said:

Top notch work. I enjoy the read, as I am about 3 months behind you. I should be into the eybolt/block business shortly.

 

Thanks for the compliment. Glad you're enjoying the log.

[abelson]

Fashioned the Main and Fore Topgallant Royal Masts. A lot of sanding/filing required to shape these as per the plans. I left the tip of the mast a little thicker for fear of breaking it off if too thin. I used the top mast cap as a guide in shaping the mast. Made the faux sheaves for the .010” Topgallant Royal Tye Halliard and the .016” Topgallant Tye Halliard. Note: The kit is not furnished with .010” line. I plan to use .012” for the Royal Tye. I also made the faux sheave for “Top Rope.” I have not found the Top Rope that passes through this sheave anywhere on the plans. If anyone knows what this is, please feel free to let me know. For the fid, I used a 1/64” x 1/16” brass strip. The masts were finished as per the plans. For the “bright” finish I used Minwax Golden Oak. I applied a coat of Minwax Polyurethane. Next up, the Fore & Main Course Yards.

Edited June 8, 2023 by abelson

[Sergey Karelia]

2 hours ago, abelson said:

I also made the faux sheave for “Top Rope.” I have not found the Top Rope that passes through this sheave anywhere on the plans. If anyone knows what this is, please feel free to let me know

This is yard rope (if I understood the question correctly)

I didn't put all the blocks from the drawing, because I don't plan to set sail and some blocks will remain empty

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Yours is a fine build, with much to share with fellow builders !

[abelson]

17 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Yours is a fine build, with much to share with fellow builders !

Thanks.

[abelson]

Made some significant progress on the build but, first, getting back to the Top Rope sheave, I found an explanation in Laxet’s build log by BillLib, as follows: “The top rope was used to hoist and lower the topmasts.  It was hooked under the underside of the cap, reeved through the sheave at the foot of the topmast, up through a block, which was hooked to the cap, and down to the deck.  On a model the top rope can be omitted, as it was only used when sending up or striking the topmast and was only rigged at those times.  The only traces to be seen are two or four ringbolts on the underside of the cap.” BillLib cites Historic Ship Models, Wolfram Zu Mondfeld.  Thus, I will omit the top rope in my Niagara build, but the faux sheave does make it authentic – no lost effort there.

 

And, digressing here, after studying the plans, there seems to be a discrepancy between the plans and the replica ship. Detail 6-A notes that the blocks for the topgallant braces are seized to the straight section of the Main Crosstree. However, on the replica ship the blocks are seized to the curved section of the crosstree (see photo). Also, in the photo there’s another block adjacent to the bunt line and leech line blocks and only one block in the shroud. The lone block in the shroud I believe is for the reef tackle. I believe the additional block in line with the leech line and bunt line blocks is for the topgallant lift line.

Began fashioning the Fore & Main Course Yards. To shape them, I used a poor man’s lathe (see photo), i.e., two drills with one end of the dowel secured in the drill chuck and the other end free to turn in the drill chuck.

 I left a ½” on each end of the dowel for insertion in the drill chuck. I started by marking the ends of the yard with a pencil. Then, I cut around the pencil mark with an x-acto knife and remove a portion of the dowel as a starting point for shaping the dowel. I used a combination of files and sanding blocks. It’s time consuming, but it works for me. The parts list calls for ¼” dowel.  I like to use a little larger diameter dowel so that when the octagonal section is shaped it’s truer to scale. I used a 5/16” dowel. When shaping the dowel, I don’t use a micrometer to check the thickness, I just eyeball it and compare it to the plan. The photos make the yards appear thicker then they are, albeit, I admit that the taper is a little thicker and the plan. After shaping the course yard, I created the octagonal section. The small chocks, chafing battens, and Jackstay eyebolts were next. The stop chocks we’re cut from 3/64”x3/32” strip, glued on the yard, and shaped in-place. The chafing battens were cut from the same stock.

I marked the locations of the jackstays with a pencil and straight edge and then drilled the holes for the eyebolts (6mm). Note: The eyebolts are located “toward the fwd side of the yard.” I cut the eyebolts down to size, test fit them, and blackened them. I primed and painted the course yards black. 

Moved on to the Fore & Main Topsail Yards next. These were fashioned basically the same as the course yards, except that I added the battens. I couldn’t find any photos of the replica ship that show the battens, but I decided to add them anyway. I figure the yards will be easier to mount with the battens – time will tell. The battens are pinned to the yards.

Lastly, the Fore & Main Topgallant Yards and the Fore & Main Royal Yards. These were fairly easy to shape. I added the battens to the Topgallant Yards a la the Topsail Yards.

All of the yards were pinned temporarily to the masts (see photos).

The plans call for all yards to be painted black. On the replica ship, except for the course yards, all the yards have a natural (bright) finish. I’ve already painted the course yards black. I’m undecided whether to make the rest of the yards black or bright finish.

 

Fashioned the spritsail yard as per the plans. The chocks and the cleats aren’t quite to scale but when rigged won’t be noticeable. The spritsail yard was primed, painted black, and temporarily pinned to the bowsprit.

There's still some work remaining to complete the yards, i.e., Jackstay eyebolts, eye splices and a lanyards, stirrups, footropes, rigging blocks, et al, but I think I'll fashion the Spanker Boom and Spanker Gaff first. Stay tuned for updates.

Edited July 1, 2023 by abelson
update spritsail yard

[abelson]

Fashioned the Spanker Boom from 3/16” dowel. I used my poor man lathe to taper the boom. Leaving about a ½” of dowel for insertion in the drill chuck, I cut and filed the aft end of the boom down to the approximate thickness (9/64”) before tapering the boom. Made the faux sheave and added the chocks (P&S), cheek block (S only), boom cleat (S only), jaws, and jaw cleats (5.5mm from Crafty Sailor). I made the jaws from 3/32”x 3/16” stock. I cut out a photocopy of the jaws and glued it lightly to the wood strip and used it as a guide for cutting and shaping the strip. Primed and painted the boom black. I left the Crafty sailor cleats in their natural color for contrast. I added brass pins to the jaws to simulate bolts.

The Spanker Gaff was fashioned from 1/8” dowel. The gaff is only tapered on the aft end. Added the halliard stop chocks (P&S) and the jaws. The gaff jaws are a little thicker than the boom jaws, so I used a 1/8” x 1/8” wood strip. I cut and shaped the strip a la the Spanker Boom jaws. I drilled the holes for hitching the 5/32” double block for the throat halliard (Detail 5-J) after gluing the jaws to the gaff. The plan calls for the gaff to be painted black. On the replica ship the gaff is natural. I decided to make the gaff natural, so I stained it with Minwax Golden Oak. Also, the replica ship does not have the “shoulder” shown on Spanker Gaff detail, so I eliminated this and added chocks for the spanker tack. A la the Spanker Boom, I added brass pins to the jaws.

Continuing with the Spanker Gaff, I added the three 3/32” single (P&S) and one 3/32” double (P&S) blocks for the Brails, as shown on the plans.  I also seized the two 5/32” single blocks for the Peak Halliard, and the 5/32” double block for the Throat Halliard and added lacing. Note: The kit is not furnished with 3/32” double blocks, so I trimmed down a 5/32” double block. Also, the plan calls for a 1/16” single block, which is not furnished with the kit, for the flag halliard.  I used a 3/32” block. The Brails run down to the deck and are belayed on the aft fife rail. I haven't seen these on any other build log.

Another item that I’ve only seen on one build log is the clew outhaul shoe block. As noted on Sheet 5, this block is made up of a 5/32” single block and a 1/8” double block seized together. Note: The replica ship does not have this block. The outhaul tackle is seized to the Spanker Boom fore of the cheek block and is reeved through the double block and the cheek block, back through the double block and is then belayed to the boom cleat.

 I’ve studied the plan and can’t wrap my head around how the clew outhaul works with the shoe block in the position that it is shown on Sheet 5.  The way I think it works, when you pull on the tackle, the sail is furled and the leech and foot lines move in two directions with the aid of the brails. The clew line travels with the leech and foot lines and ends up below the throat of the gaff as can be seen in the attached photo or midway at the Spanker Mast (sail luff) as pictured on Sheet 5.

Getting back to the clew outhaul shoe block, I think the position shown on the plan would be the position of the blocks with the sail furled because when the sail is unfurled the outhaul shoe block would have to travel fore. I might be wrong here, but if anyone can better explain the workings of the Spanker Sail I’m all ears. At this point, I’m unsure how or if I will present the brail, leech, foot, and clew lines on the ship. In the meantime, I've fashioned the clew line as per the plans. Note: Landlubber Mike's technique for furled sails on Model Shipways has a good description of spanker sail component and how to make sails.

 

For the Spanker Boom foot ropes, I stretched a length of .012” line between two brads set in a board over laid with paper. I made tick marks about 1/4” about on the paper to mark the location of the knots. I tied a knot at each location, applied a little CA to each knot, and trimmed the loose ends. Next, I seized each foot rope to the Spanker Boom. The difficult part is trying to get the ropes to lineup. I also added the two 3/32” single blocks (P&S) that pass through the cringle at the end of clew line. Each has a block and tackle midway on the Spanker Mast. I added the 3/32” single blocks at the Spanker Mast for the Brails. The blocks were seized to the mast hoops as they appear to be on Sheet 5. The out hauls (P&S) are belayed to the aft fife rail as shown on the Belaying Plan on Sheet 6.

Lastly, I added the fair lead for the boom sheet and the 3/32” double block with ring attached to Horse in transom. Seize the 3/32” double block to the Spanker Boom.  Now, it's time to move on to completing the yards.

 

Moving on to some of the miscellaneous items, I added 1/8” single blocks to the main topmast cross tree for the topgallant braces (as per the replica ship) and the lift lines, and the sling (.018” tan) to the Main Mast for the gaff lift line.

 

 

 

Edited July 20, 2023 by abelson
Update

[milosmail]

Realy nice work!

 

I'm about ready to start with rigging, but I have spent the past month to interrupt workflow by building ships boats. Have you built yours yet? I am not sure how to build a caprail for them. Any ideas would be appreciated. 

The rest has been pretty straight forward; used styrene strip for most of the detail, and birch for seats and the two sheets at bow and stern. Debating how to make elbows....or just leave off.

[abelson]

On 7/21/2023 at 6:27 PM, milosmail said:

Realy nice work!

 

I'm about ready to start with rigging, but I have spent the past month to interrupt workflow by building ships boats. Have you built yours yet? I am not sure how to build a caprail for them. Any ideas would be appreciated. 

The rest has been pretty straight forward; used styrene strip for most of the detail, and birch for seats and the two sheets at bow and stern. Debating how to make elbows....or just leave off.

Thanks. I've only created the hulls, so I can't help you out there.  Did that early on in the build. I'm thinking that will be one of the last things I'll do. 

[abelson]

Made significant progress on the Fore and Main Course Yards and the Top Sail Yards. Added the jackstay eyebolts, rope (.018” line for the Course Yards and .012" for the Top Sail Yards), eye splices, and lanyard (.012” tan rope).  I made the eye splices first, reeved the rope through the eyes, and seized the rope to the mast. The hard part is getting the space between the eye splices to get the proper lanyard length.

Fashioned the Course Yard Slings. I used Syren .035” rope. It’s difficult to get the right lengths. After a couple of failed attempts I think I got it right. I made the yard slings about 1 1/4” long and the mast slings about 1 7/8” long.

Next, the stirrups and foot ropes. A la my Syren and Fair American builds, I used 20 gauge annealed wire for the stirrups and the foot ropes. They were eye spliced to the jackstay eyebolts and seized with black sewing thread.

 

To the Fore and Main Course Yards, I added the 5/32” clump blocks for the Topsail Clew line and the Course Yard Lifts and Sheets, the 5/32” single blocks for the Reef Tackle, the 1/8” single blocks for the Clew Garnet, and the 5/32” single blocks for Top Sail Sheets. The 5/32” single blocks and pendants for the braces will be added later. One dilemma I had was where to place the 1/8” single blocks for the Clew Garnet lines and the 5/32” single block for the Fore Topsail Sheets, because the plan sheet shows them in the same location as the chafing battens on the aft side of the yards, meaning that the blocks would be wrapped around the chafing block. So, I decided to move them so that the don’t interfere with chafing blocks.

 

Added the fairleads with short pendent for the bunt lines and leech lines.

Finished the Fore and Main Top Sail Yards. Added the 3/32” single blocks for the Topgallant Sheets, 5/32” single blocks for the Top Sail Clew lines and the 1/8” single blocks for the Braces, the thimble fair leads, the stirrups, foot ropes, and Flemish Horses. Note: The Flemish Horses are shown on the plan but are not called out. Clarification: The 3/32" single blocks for the Topgallant Sheets are supposed to be seized into the Top Sail Lift as detailed at the Royal Yard on Sheet 6. I missed this detail and made a lash in the block for seizing the Top Sail Lift as can be seen in the left and right photos below- my bad. Next on the To-Do-List, the Top Gallant Yards and the Royal Yards.

Edited September 12, 2023 by abelson
Edification

[cardensb]

I just scrolled through your log, I have the MS kit sitting in my pile of kits bought when they had a great sale about 10 years ago.  I think this will be my next build based on your log. Echoing many others, love the amount of photos that are quality and clear.  Also love the drawing on the plans for clarity.

I really appreciate you identifying all the small eyelets and chock points needing mounted to the hull before starting to rig and find it difficult to get a pin vise in later.

 

Any major lessons learned to pass along that did not get documented but as you reflect back to the early steps of the build?

 

Some specific questions:

1.  Frames and filler blocks: Any regrets for not using filler blocks entirely between all of the framing? (I had a keel take a bend during a break in planking years ago)

 

2. Additional purchases: Have you compiled a list of "must buy" additional parts or do I need to scroll back through?  I would rather shop all at once if possible. I see you id'ed shortages of many smaller items that add up in shipping charges.

 

3a. Gun tackle: Do you like how the brass hooks turned out in the armament tackle assemblies for the time it was worth or should I stick with bending wire?

3b. Or should I skip the hooks completely and just attach the lines to the rings with a little glue like many of MS kit's have us do? (I like the hooks ideally but once done, not sure if it looks to busy or out of scale?) Or should I skip the gun tackle completely to reduce "deck clutter"

 

4. Copper plating: your photos of the real ship appears to have copper plating below the waterline, any recommendations to do it or not do it?  I have done it on some and not others so it's not the repetition that makes me think otherwise.

 

5. What's next for you? You are into the rigging now, have you thought what is your next build?  I like the Niagara for the different cannonades than I have done before but I really enjoy building frames so my follow-on will like be a one where each frame is cut from about four pieces of cherry locally harvested.  I recently purchases the Washington Galley plans. I find myself thinking ahead as I finish up a Hannah build based on plans and a wood only kit from The Lumberyard that has been a work in progress for about 7 years. I wonder if I need to try a completely different style of ship to expand my skills like a viking longboat or an Egyptian ship from a two-thousand years ago.

[abelson]

Moving on to the Top Gallant Yards, Sheet 6 calls for 3/32” double blocks for the Top Gallant Sheets and Clew Lines. The kit is not furnished with that size block, so I used the next size up 1/8” double. It also calls for 5/64” single blocks for the Top Gallant Braces, which also are not furnished with the kit. I used 3/32” blocks instead. Furthermore, 1/16” single clump blocks are called out for the Royal Sheets, also not furnished. I will use 3/32” blocks instead. Note: The clump block is seized into the Top Gallant Lift, so when you add this block to the Top Gallant Yard you’ll have to use a long enough rope to belay the lifts to the pin rail on deck. These will be added later.

 

Added the jackstay eyebolts, rope (.012”), eye splices, and lanyard (.012” tan rope).  I made the eye splices first, reeved the rope through the eyes, and seized the rope to the mast. I completed the Top Gallant Yards by adding the blocks for the Royal Sheets, Top Gallant Sheets and Clew Lines, and Braces, and the stirrups and foot ropes (20 gauge annealed wire). The topgallant yards have a thimble fairlead seized to the jackstay as detailed on plan Sheet 6 Main Mast, Looking Aft (see photo).

The Royal Yards are next. I added 3/32” single blocks for the clew lines (plans call for 5/64” blocks, which are not furnished), and foot ropes (20 gauge annealed wire), 

Except for the Course Yard braces and the yard tackle for lifting cargo, The yards are complete. I debated whether to add the yard tackle, as many build logs eliminated this. I decided to add them - I presumed there is one on each course yard. I made them basically as shown on sheet 6. I Seized a pendent to the Jack stay to hook the tackle to. It’s not clear to me how this tackle works. The location of the rope suggests that the cargo was hauled up from the course yard. I coiled a length of Syren .012 tan rope and belayed it to the Jack stay rather than hang on slings. I realized later that if the tackle was lowered to lift cargo from a boat, the rope would have be about 140 feet long. Be that as it may, I definitely didn’t coil enough line.  I completed the course yards by adding the braces. At this stage, all of the yards are now complete. Next up, add the blocks for sprit sail yard. Stay tuned,

 

[abelson]

On 9/7/2023 at 12:40 PM, cardensb said:

I just scrolled through your log, I have the MS kit sitting in my pile of kits bought when they had a great sale about 10 years ago.  I think this will be my next build based on your log. Echoing many others, love the amount of photos that are quality and clear.  Also love the drawing on the plans for clarity.

I really appreciate you identifying all the small eyelets and chock points needing mounted to the hull before starting to rig and find it difficult to get a pin vise in later.

 

Any major lessons learned to pass along that did not get documented but as you reflect back to the early steps of the build? Comment: As my build log has evolved, I have tried to point out lessons learned or things to be aware of. So far, I there hasn't been anything major that I can recall. 

 

Some specific questions:

1.  Frames and filler blocks: Any regrets for not using filler blocks entirely between all of the framing? (I had a keel take a bend during a break in planking years ago) Comment: No regrets not having used filler blocks between all framing members. I think it's matter of preference.

 

2. Additional purchases: Have you compiled a list of "must buy" additional parts or do I need to scroll back through?  I would rather shop all at once if possible. I see you id'ed shortages of many smaller items that add up in shipping charges. Comment: I've purchased parts as I have needed them. I do try to wait until I have a number of items before ordering so as to keep the shipping costs to a minimum. It seems there's always something additional that you need.

 

3a. Gun tackle: Do you like how the brass hooks turned out in the armament tackle assemblies for the time it was worth or should I stick with bending wire? Comment: I like the Crafty Sailor hooks - a good purchase that saved time.

3b. Or should I skip the hooks completely and just attach the lines to the rings with a little glue like many of MS kit's have us do? (I like the hooks ideally but once done, not sure if it looks to busy or out of scale?) Or should I skip the gun tackle completely to reduce "deck clutter" Comment: The hooks definitely do not look out scale. It's a matter of preference.

 

4. Copper plating: your photos of the real ship appears to have copper plating below the waterline, any recommendations to do it or not do it?  I have done it on some and not others so it's not the repetition that makes me think otherwise. Comment: I have read in some build logs where it is thought that the original ship had copper plating. I don't think the replica ship does. Again, this would be a matter of preference.

 

5. What's next for you? You are into the rigging now, have you thought what is your next build?  I like the Niagara for the different cannonades than I have done before but I really enjoy building frames so my follow-on will like be a one where each frame is cut from about four pieces of cherry locally harvested.  I recently purchases the Washington Galley plans. I find myself thinking ahead as I finish up a Hannah build based on plans and a wood only kit from The Lumberyard that has been a work in progress for about 7 years. I wonder if I need to try a completely different style of ship to expand my skills like a viking longboat or an Egyptian ship from a two-thousand years ago. Comment: I'm nearing the rigging stage, but first I need to add rope coils for the carronades. I've been putting this off as long as possible. As for my next build, I have the USS Constitution awaiting. I purchase it from MS when it was on sale.

 

[abelson]

Completed the sprit sail yard. Added the 3/32” single blocks for the lifts and the 1/8” single blocks for the braces.

Moved on to the monotonous task of making the 76 rope coils for the carronades. I revisited my Syren build log to refresh my memory of how I previously made the rope coils. Many build logs neatly coil the rope. I figure the sailors on a war ship probably didn’t neatly coil the rope and, if they did, the rope probably didn’t stay coiled for long. So, I decided to un-neatly coil the rope. I wrapped .012” tan Syren rope around a 3/16” dowel (see photo) 4 times, applied a little CA to the loose ends, and then brushed on a 50/50 solution of white glue and water.  When dry, I gently slid the rope off the dowel and unto some masking tape, flattened it out somewhat, and applied a little more 50/50 solution of glue and water. For me, this technique is easier than neatly coiling the rope. Added some coils to the deck for effect – looks good (see photo). More to come.

 

Edited September 27, 2023 by abelson
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[abelson]

Completed the rope coils-phew. I must say that I prefer the look of the deck sans rope coils.  The deck looks cluttered now. Next up, deck furniture.

x

[ccoyle]

1 hour ago, abelson said:

The deck looks cluttered now.

 

Imagine the chaos when the ropes were uncoiled and being worked by gun crews in action.

[abelson]

Completed placing the structures and setting the Main and Fore Masts.

Decided to work on the Bowsprit next. Added the following blocks to the Bowsprit cap: 1/8” double with hook on front port side for Jib Stay tackle, 3/32” single with hook and thimble on lower eyebolt P&S for Sprit Sail yard lifts, and 1/8” single on upper eyebolt port side for Jib Boom out haul tackle. Note: Unable to find on the plans where the outhaul tackle is belayed. Looking at other build logs, I found that the outhaul apparently passes through the chock rail and is belayed to the Bow Pin Rail.

Added a Syren 1/8” closed heart (not furnished with kit) to the metal strop on the Bowsprit for the Bob Stay. Will use .012 tan rope for the lanyard and Syren .025 black rope for the Bob Stay.

Made the Bowsprit Collar (.021 black) with 1/8” bullseyes and mounted it on the Bowsprit for the Bowsprit Shrouds. Will use .012 tan rope for the lanyards and Syren .025 black rope for the shrouds. Bullseyes were purchased from Model Expo – not furnished with kit. Fashioned the Inner Bobstay Collar (.021 black) with 1/8" closed heart as detailed on Sheet 5.

Lashed the Jib Boom to the Bow Sprit and the Flying Jib Boom to the Jib Boom. I used the kit furnished .008” rope.

Next, I turned my attention to the two laser cut Hearts for the Bowsprit Forestay and Fore Preventer as shown in Detail 5A.  The Hearts are rather thin and fragile. I snapped one while sanding of the char. So, use caution when sanding and creating the groove in them. The hearts are black on the replica ship but, like many other build logs, I decided to stain them (Golden Oak).

Added the double collars for the Forestay & Fore Preventer Stay as per Detail 5-A. The detail calls for .023” rope for the collars, which is not furnished with the kit. I used the kit supplied .021” rope. I made the collars 2” long from eye spice to eye splice. The collars were lashed under the Bowsprit with .008” tan rope. Note: The Instruction Manual, page 28 calls for using .031” line for “Lines of plan” .022” to .031” - .031” line is not furnished with the kit.

Moved on to the Spritsail Yard sling. The detail on Sheet 5 calls for .016” rope which is not furnished with the kit, so I used .021” rope. One end of the sling has to be attached to the Spritsail Yard and the opposite end has to be wrapped around the Bow Sprit and then around the Spritsail. I’m going to remove the Bowsprit while I work on the Hammock stanchions and rails next, for fair of snagging it.

[abelson]

Decided to forgo the hammock stanchions. I thought the effort wasn’t worth the effect. I like the clean look without them. So, on to rigging the Main and Fore Mast lower shrouds. But, first, I discovered that I had forgotten to attach the boarding ladders which I had previously fashioned. The ladders interfere with the carronade tackles. It must have been problematic on the actual ship.

And I decided to finish the laser cut quarter davits. I painted them yellow (MS4829 Hull Yellow Occre) and black (Model Color acrylic by Vallejo). The davits have sheaves at the top. I created the faux sheaves in the davits using a saw. Drilled a .55mm hole for the bitter end knot. Added a 7/32” cleat to each davit per the detail on sheet 4. I purchased the cleats from Crafty Sailor. To secure the cleats to the davits I inserted a brass pin in each cleat. Note: be careful when making the davits because they are not uniform in shape from end to end.  Lay them on the detail on sheet 4 to be sure you have the correct orientation. I made the davit brackets from 1/64"x1/32" brass strip - they will be blackened later. The davits will be left off ship and out of harm sway for now. 

While fabricating the davits, I realized that I did not drill a hole in the stern davits for the bitter end knot. This was carefully done with a .55mm drill.

Before making the shrouds, I reviewed the plans and the instruction manual, particularly the details on Sheet 5. I began with the Fore Mast lower shrouds. The burton pendants with single shroud P&S are first, followed by the first pair of shrouds P&S and, lastly, the second pair of shrouds P&S. The fore stay, preventer stay, and course yard sling in that order. As the instruction manual states “remember, stays go over the shrouds.” The plan calls for the shrouds to be .035” line (not furnished with the kit). I used .035” brown rope purchased from Syren. I spray painted the deadeyes flat black (Testors 1249T enamel) to simulate the actual ship. 

 

I made the burton pendent shrouds first following the detail on Sheet 5. I measured the length of the shrouds from the plan and allowed enough wrap around the 1/8” deadeyes. The 1^st and 2^nd pair the shrouds are slightly longer from fore and aft. I found a rope length of 19" to be adequate.  I added a little CA to the ends of the rope to prevent them from fraying. To space the deadeyes, I fashioned a jig from 28-gauge wire as pictured in Figure 8-2 in the Instruction Manual. With the jig in-place, I wrapped the first shroud around the deadeye, tensioned it, attached an allegator clamp, and seized it with .012” black rope at the throat, middle, and end of the rope.  The length of the end of rope is a matter of preference. I made it 1/2" above the top of the deadeye. I used Syren 012” rope for the lanyards. I found that I had to adjust the height of the jig for the second pair of shrouds in order for the deadeyes to line up. There isn’t much detail on the plans to illustrate rigging the deadeyes, so I copied a nice detail from Petersson’s Rigging Period Ship Models and added it to the build log (see photo). I didn’t quite follow the detail in every respect, though - I improvised.

Completed the Fore Mast lower shrouds. Next up, the Main Mast shrouds. This will be the last post for 2023. Wishing everyone happy holidays and a healthy 2024. Stay tuned.