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Vasa By 72Nova - FINISHED - Airfix - PLASTIC


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With the main course buntlines completed I started working on the Mizen top sail tie and halliard, the fiddle block is made up using 1.5mm and 2mm blocks and a 1.5mm block in the top with the halliard end going to the pin rail. Up next will be the Mizen top sail yard then complete the remaining rigging on the Lateen yard, bowlines, tack and sheet. Thanks for looking.

 

Michael D.

 

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Thank you Frank, A bit of milestone as all the yards and sails are now in position, regarding the lifts I used 32ga wire for the eye bolts at the cap and are tied off in the top, speaking of which is pretty crowded considering it measures out to 0.55" in diameter, smaller than a dime, all in all it looks okay.

 

Michael D.

 

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A small update, I've completed the Mizzen top sail yard and crojack lift minus bowlines and braces and completed the portside lower main ratlines, once I complete the starboard side I'll rig the Mizzen top mast stays, top sail yard bowlines, Mizzen yard bowlines, tack and sheet.

 

Michael D.

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  This is, I think, as good as it is possible to build this kit.  Great job, mate!  I like the way you use brown lines in the rigging throughout. When I get back to mine, such that it is, the plan is to use shades of brown and no black at all.

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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Good day Michael,

FANTASTIC rigging in this scale !!! Love it very much !!! Brilliant work !!!

All the best!

Kirill

ps

Did You abandon idea to furl upper sails in shape with vertical central part and upwarded clews?

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Thank you Kirill and I will be adding the furled vertical section of the top sails. I've completed the starboard Mizzen top mast stay/crowfeet, these are assembled on the bench using a template before rigging them on the ship. The tack and bowlines are completed also, I see I need to straighten out a few ratlines. I realized it's been just about a year since I started this build, thanks for looking everyone.

Michael D.

 

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I was able to finally secure some nagging loose lines, that being the  Mizzen sheet and lift, I used 1.5mm single and a 1.5mm double for the sheet blocks. I rigged the crojack braces starting at an eye bolt in side, through the pendant block and secured to cleats on the rail. Up next will be the Ensign at the stern and the top mast flag and their appropriate  rigging along with finishing the furling of the top sail and bow lines and that should complete the rigging of the Mizzen mast, also I need to start thinking about the design and fabrication of the stern lantern.

Michael D.

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Brilliant!

And just spent abt one year?!  I would like to  admit, Fantastic speed You made in this building!:)))

Great!

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Much thanks Kirill, I never really keep track at how fast nor how much time I put into each build, I just work at comfortable pace. I completed the furling of the Mizzen top sail and working on the main top sail braces now, the lead is hitched or simulated to look like one at this scale to the Mizzen stay collar, through the pendant block to a block on the Mizzen shroud and to the block on the aft main shroud and to the belaying point shown in the Vasa Museum plans I have, this run looks odd to me, Anderson does state that normally they went straight down to the deck and with the belay point where it is I think I should fore go the run to the main shroud and run the lead down the Mizzen shroud as Anderson states for Dutch Vesels.

 

Michael D.

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Good day,

I think, if simplified version will be choozen, than we could make it final runs trough lead blocks on mizzen fwrd shroud and strait down to belying points near mizzen shroud... same as on Sophia Amalia model, Kalmar Nykel replica or how it shown in rigging plan of Vitsen pinnas made by Ab Hoving( that which is in pdf ,big in size and very detailed!)...I think You have all these sources? Or if we would like to make it more odd,elaborated ,fancy rigging, than we could make it as You said in the beginning...run it to the mizzen than to the main aft shroud back to mizzen and secured somewhere in this location... both versions would be interesting...

All the best!

Kirill

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Hi Kirill,

I do not have that PDF by Ad Hoving, I'd be interested in checking it out. Anderson does point out the line going aft again to a block added to the lower fore Mizzen shroud before taken to the deck, stating the English and Danes using this method but evidence on a Dutch vessel, instead just taking it down the Mizzen shroud to the deck, Whilst I like elaborate I think the safe bet would be to follow Anderson's lead on this one.

 

Michael D.

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Good day Michael,

There is link, Ab Hoving drawings ( free downloaded from texas university site,if I m not mistaken)and some other info about Dutch shipbuilding traditions

https://cloud.mail.ru/public/Gt4G/kt1TuyVop

 

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Thank you, Kirill I'll check out the other site.  I settled on the run for the main top gallant and top sail braces, they're lead down the Mizzen shrouds, and I completed the port Mizzen top sail bowlines. Starboard side is next then I'll do some final tweaks on the bowlines. Thanks for looking.

 

Michael D.

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You have done some excellent work on this build, I just sailed through your build, Very ,very nice.   :cheers:.

Bob M.

Start so you can Finish !!

Finished:            The  Santa Maria -Amati 1:65, La Pinta- Amati 1:65, La Nina -Amati 1:65 ,                                                Hannah Ship in a Bottle -1:300  The Sea of Galilee Boat-Scott Miller-1:20 ,The Mayflower Amati 1:60

non Ship Build:   1972 Ford Sport Custom Truck

 Current Build:    Viking Ship Drakkar -Amati-1:50

On Hold:            HMS Pegasus: Amati 

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With the starboard braces and bowlines completed I needed to fabricate the taffrail carving, using sculpey modeling clay this is what I came up with. Also, I added some detail to the Ensign staff cap.

For the lantern I used a tapered CA applicator for the body and misc styrene for the rest, I used gold foil tape for the grids, gave all gold a wash of black, then gloss coated the glass area to complete.

The brackets are 28g brass wire and flattened 24g wire for the base, although far from perfect, I think it looks satisfactory.  

 

Michael D.

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Good day Michael,

Lantern in this version , as shown on the photo, is it final shape? ... it looks a litgle bit rough and falling apart from the entire model detailed style,especially your fantastic rigging... may be there is sence to add more  details - to make it looks  smthng as it shown in the book abt Prince William model... ?

Don't You like Biorn Landstrem Vasa's lantern reconstruction in Dutch style, as it represented on p.106-107 in his book...? Glasses looks like to be assembled  in diamond shapes piedes, and looks flat in shape... there should be imitstion of  vent openings on the upper parts, more decor relement could be added( imitation) ...?

All that could be made from that sculpey modeling clay?... some waist packing net( i saw it used for garlic packing in supermarket or antimoscito net, etc.) could be using for diamond shape glass imitation ?

  And braces rigging...doubt that brace block and pendant connected directly as You shown in this time, there should be block strope and pendant knob connection... if Im not mistaken...?

There is also good sraff for making small reliefs on surface - that countur marker, could be found in artistic shops, very handy for imitation purpose of small carvings or smthng else , they could be found in different metallic and other volors as well...

Edited by kirill4
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Hi Kirill,

I could very well continue work on the lantern and make it more ornate but still on the fence on whether I want to display it, maybe just the mount. Regarding the brace pendants you are correct about the blocks stropped with a loop but really tough to do with 1.5mm blocks, I needed to simulate them instead and I believe it looks convincing enough at this scale. 

 

Michael D.

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Hi Michael,

This connection,on this photo,  it is exactly what I meant ,it looks very natural!!!

Great!

All the Best!

Kirill

Edited by kirill4
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The CA applicator tip for the body of the lantern is a really creative way of handling something that can be difficult to convincingly represent on a model.  👍

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Sometimes different parts of the transparent plastic pensil could be used as well... they have cone parts and parts with flat sides... :)

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That design looks to be taken out of Landstom's book, very nice indeed. Since no lantern was ever recovered and the probability exists that it may never have been installed, we can only speculate what it actually looked like, so I figured I could use some artistic license, still some touch up left to do but I'm a lot more pleased with this rendition, I added some styrene to the vertical grids then created the sculptures from Sculpey clay , for the vents I used paper. Thanks for looking.

 

Michael D.

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Good day,

Michael,  

This version looks much better , but in my opinion, what do You think...

due to this part the only one of  such "bright metall" element in entire model , would it wokr like an excessive" concentrator" of attention? I mean , it could disturb visual balance of the model if I could say that... is there a plan to add some "gilding " to some another decorative elements fitted on the hull?

All the Best!

Kirill

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