Bluenose 1921 by GGibson - Model Shipways - 1:64

[GGibson]

1 hour ago, John Ruy said:

Greg, Nice Prep… 👍. What rope are you using? It looks good.
 

I didn’t like the kit supplied Manila rigging, although the Black was good for the standing rigging. I have been using Amati rope I had on my bench, for the running rigging. 

 

John
 

 

 

Thanks, John!  Ropes of Scale - Polyester Rope – Ropes of Scale 

[Ed Ku20]

Hi Gregg,

Checking in on your Bluenose build log after you referenced me in your last post.  Very nice work!  Your rigging is coming along nicely.  I agree, the brass fittings look really sharp on this schooner.  I'm blackening the brass on my current Rattlesnake model.  Brass didn't seem right for a late 1700's pirate ship.  Bluenose was my first ship and I learned a lot from it.  Glad my log has been helpful for you.

 

Keep up the good work!

Ed

[GGibson]

21 minutes ago, Ed Ku20 said:

Hi Gregg,

Checking in on your Bluenose build log after you referenced me in your last post....

 

Keep up the good work!

Ed

 

Thanks, Ed! Yes, your build log has been an excellent reference for me.  Appreciate the work you put in.  And, yes, I know critics will say (rightfully so) that all the metalwork should be blackened, but I really do like the way the shiny brass stands out, so... I go against the purists on that one. <shrug>  Wish I was able to duplicate the shackles, though.  I just haven't had much success in creating those at a small scale and I see where I would need to do many more in some upcoming rigging.

 

For now, I've just been going from spar to spar on the plans to see what rigging I can prepare in advance so that, once I get the masts up and start tying down the shrouds, hopefully most of the rigging will just need to be placed in its spot, connected to eyebolts, pins, etc.  Nervous about it all, but I just keep telling myself to slow down and be patient with it all.

 

Thanks again for peeking in.  Appreciate any advice as I trudge forward!  

[GGibson]

Well, after last week's start with the pre-rigging on stuff coming off the main mast, I continued around the ship and tried to catch every bit of rigging that I could do now, off the ship, for each of the five (5) booms and gaffs.  I've doubled my seven pre-riggings to fourteen (14) and have labeled them (hopefully accurately enough to know where they go!).  The ones on the top row are what I completed since last week.

 

 

Unless I am forgetting another important step in the pre-rigging process, it appears my next task is to get the masts placed so that I can begin on the lower shrouds.  But... before that, I think it is also time to get the Bluenose on its display base/pedestals, and also get the dories and kids firmly placed, as I've been holding off on their placement for fear of snagging them.

 

Might also get the silkspan out that I recently ordered for the sails to see how easily it will be to work with.

 

Appreciate all the advice, likes and comments.

[GGibson]

Another very small update since it's been over a month.  Had some travels to attend the oldest granddaughter's HS graduation and a few other distractions, as well as just taking some time on this area of the Bluenose build.

 

Time to work on the lower mast shrouds.  Cut out the kit-supplied oval deadeyes from the sheet, cleaned them up the best I could (these things are small!), strung them on some thread, dipped them in some stain, and hung them to dry.

 

 

Using some .5mm (0.019") black rope for the shrouds, I tied and seized the eight lengths at the tops of the lower shrouds and, as others have done, created a "spacer jig" with some wire in order to manage the consistent length of each shroud and deadeye.  Getting some small grooves around the oval deadeyes was helpful in securing the rope to the deadeyes before hitting them with some diluted PVA and seizing with smaller thread.

 

Have now just begun to run the lanyards between the oval deadeyes and their respective round deadeyes.  I am using .35mm (0.013") tan rope for the lanyards.  Two lanyards down, fourteen to go.  Can't wait until I get to the ratlines...!! 🤣🤣

 

And, in the "for what it's worth" category, I hate these extreme closeup photos that detail how bad some of this paint job is... Grrr.....

 

      

 

As always, appreciate the comments and criticisms.

[Der Alte Rentner]

13 hours ago, GGibson said:

in the "for what it's worth" category, I hate these extreme closeup photos that detail how bad some of this paint job is... Grrr.....

thus my reluctance to paint my Conny at all..

 

I'm about to embark on planking the spar deck but have been stalling while I consider finishing options.  Hunt applies  multiple coats of clear polyacrylic before he then covers that with multiple coats of paint, which he thins and applies with a brush.  I experimented with stains, gel stains, and dyes as well as paint.  After seeing how nicely black gel stain covered bare basswood, I had hoped I could use this over stained wood  - the idea being, I would try some variant of brown stain on the hull and if I didn't like the result, I would cover the mess with black stain.  Sadly, once the wood has taken a couple of coats of stain, the black gel doesn't cover well.  So, if I decide I don't like the look of the brown stain, I will likely resort to -  ugh!  paint..  

 

I have received advice to go with pinstripe tape masking and to use an air brush to get a better outcome with paint.  Having seen so many spectacular close ups of brushed-on paint jobs, if I do paint, I'll be investing in yet another tool and accessories.  Fun times ahead.  🤣

 

By the way, I still haven't tried gluing stuff to the experimental tiles I've prepared with poly and stain finishes.  There are many items that need to be tacked on to the hull.  How well does Super Glue stick to Hunt's 6 to 8 coat poly/paint finish on the hull? 

 

 

Upon further review:  I was also asked why I don't cover the basswood hull planking with a different second layer, as if the norm for European kits.  I do have the planking material from the Constructo kit, and I might achieve the natural wood finish I desire, but I'm not sure I'm up to the rigors of a second round of planking. 😒  Though, this would cover some of the flubs made on the first round.  🤔   Stalling, stalling, stalling...  😁

 

Nice work Gregg.  As for the close up photos, I suspect that most viewers of your completed Bluenose won't be looking at her with magnifiers.  It's amazing how little detail one's Mach 1 eyeballs pick up.   

 

[John Ruy]

Greg, Your Deadeyes and Lanyards look great. 👍 As for paint, I stick with thin Acrylics and seal with a semi-gloss Acrylic Polyurethane. Surface prep with fine sanding (nail emery boards) works. One thin coat of color and one coat of polyurethane. Be sure to vacuum al dust off prior to Painting.  For natural finishes I use Shellac, one coat. Keep it thin…

 

Steady as she goes, lookin good. 

John 

Edited 11 hours ago by John Ruy

[Der Alte Rentner]

8 minutes ago, John Ruy said:

As for paint, I stick with thinned Acrylics and seal with a semi-gloss Acrylic Polyurethane. Surface prep with fine sanding (nail emery boards) works. One thin coat of color and one coat of polyurethane. Be sure to vacuum al dust off prior to Painting.  For natural finishes I use Shellac, one coat. Keep it thin…

In my experimentation with Acrylic paint, even un-thinned paint does not cover well in a single coat.  When thinned to minimize brush marks when dry, no less than three coats were required to get a clean, smooth and uniform finish.   

 

When you mention surface prep, are you talking about readying the surface for gluing on additional pieces?  or for the initial coat of paint? I'm concerned with the former, given the numerous features that will be affixed to the hull after painting.  Thoughts?  Advice?

[John Ruy]

22 minutes ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

In my experimentation with Acrylic paint, even un-thinned paint does not cover well in a single coat.  When thinned to minimize brush marks when dry, no less than three coats were required to get a clean, smooth and uniform finish.   

 

When you mention surface prep, are you talking about readying the surface for gluing on additional pieces?  or for the initial coat of paint? I'm concerned with the former, given the numerous features that will be affixed to the hull after painting.  Thoughts?  Advice?

Thin Acrylic, not “Thinned”, all you need is a hint of color and seal. You should be able to achieve it in one coat. 

CA glue will work with the poly coatings. It is better to stick with wood to wood on things like the Chanels on the sides of the hull. You will need the sheer strength. 
 

Of course I’m talking small components here. The hull is a different story.  Airbrushing multiple coats is a must. 
 

That’s been my experience…

John

Edited 16 hours ago by John Ruy

[mtbediz]

4 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

In my experimentation with Acrylic paint, even un-thinned paint does not cover well in a single coat.  When thinned to minimize brush marks when dry, no less than three coats were required to get a clean, smooth and uniform finish.   

 

When you mention surface prep, are you talking about readying the surface for gluing on additional pieces?  or for the initial coat of paint? I'm concerned with the former, given the numerous features that will be affixed to the hull after painting.  Thoughts?  Advice?

I don't try to get a very smooth surface in wooden models because in real life, wooden ship surfaces are not as smooth as a metal surface. Especially the lines at the junction of the planks are evident, making the model more realistic.