Fair American by Oldsalt1950 - Model Shipways - 1:48

[Oldsalt1950]

About to start the "Fair American". Those familiar with the ship know the model is based upon a model. There are a few known issues with the kit build, among them the height of the quarterdeck bulkhead and door, and also its placement in relation to the last cannons on the main deck. There have been a number of different work arounds that have been implemented to solve these issues if you have read the numerous build logs. The rigging of the ship is also different on the kit then the model, the rigging plan for the kit is based on "Rattlesnake's" rigging plan. I would advise anyone contemplating building FA to read the build logs, and then read the construction manual, paying close attention to the notes therein. Get some post-it notes. and write down the areas that need to be addressed before you start any of the construction process. 

 

The kit comes with 4 full size plan sheets, and 2 smaller sheets which spars and masts, and belaying pin and cleat tie offs. In the documentation you will see various general warnings with references to other material to explain them. I highly recommend you take them to heart for a successful build. I would also say that this kit is not for the first time/first builder. 

 

You will also find that to complete the build you will have to order parts not included in the kit. This is also noted in the building manual. Tomorrow we start making saw dust!  

Jim

 

 

[Oldsalt1950]

First thing to do is create a bearding line on the hull frame. In the case of the FA, a series of small laser marks established the bearding line on both sides of the frame, so it was only a matter of connecting the marks.

 

The next step is to cut a rabbet for the hull planks. The manual calls for a rabbet 1/16 deep. The hull frame is 3/16 thick so using a scribe and a piece of 1/16 lumber I scribed a line on one side of the edge of the frame , flipped it over and repeated the process. I sand my rabbets; some may use a dremel or carve theirs. The depth of the rabbet was checked using (2) 1/16 pieces of lumber stacked on each other. When the required depth was reached, the frame was flipped over and the process repeated for the other side.

 

Be careful about the very tip of the frame near the bow as it is easy to snap off.

[Oldsalt1950]

Keel. Stem and Stern Post are next on the list. This is followed by the Bulkheads and beveling of them, then the filler blocks. The Keel is a known issue and I cut a new one to the proper length. They will not be attached to the frame until all the bulkhead and filler block work is completed. It will be much easier establishing the shape of the bow filler block without the stem and keel attacked to the frame. Time to make some more saw dust. 

 

Jim

 

[Oldsalt1950]

I was just going over the plans and instruction manual for FA. as I jot down notes for changes that need to be made, when i discovered there is something missing. It isn't the ships boat, but it is an important little feature that is not on the plans or in the manual. I haven't seen it in any pictures of completed builds either. Every ship has one, but this model doesn't. I'll let everyone think on this for a while.

[Oldsalt1950]

Bulkhead to frame fitting today. Lots of sanding and filing to get things to fit. !2 of the 16 bulkheads will need some shimming as they do not reach the bearding line. Once that is established then the initial beveling of the bulkheads. Due to the nature of how I am building the FA, bulkhead 16 is in need of some serious modifications.

 

For those of you who were wondering what it is I found missing from the plans, there is no "Charlie Noble" on this ship. 

 

Jim

 

[Oldsalt1950]

All the bulkheads with the exception of 1 and 16 have been attached to the frame. I have been going over notes and other build logs before i start my modifications to the kit. one must remember that the kit is based on a model and not actual ships blueprints. There are a number of issues to overcome with the model itself, and there are some interesting notes that will be reflected in my build. To compound the issue, the rigging on the model and the rigging for the kit are different. My interpretation of Fair American will be a little different from those you have seen so far. I can't let the cat out of the bag yet, but if all goes according to plan it will be an interesting model. Pete Jaquith's build gave me some interesting little changes. Stay tuned for future updates.

 

Jim

 

Edited November 17, 2022 by Oldsalt1950

[Oldsalt1950]

Due to the controversy surrounding ME selling pirated ship kits, I will not be updating this build log. The FA is not such a kit, but I cannot in good conscience continue to post any progress made on a kit manufactured by a company that is selling pirated kits.

 

Jim

 

[Oldsalt1950]

Since ME has not been put on the banned list. I will continue with the build log. There are a number of issues that need to be dealt with concerning the kit and also a number of solutions. 

1. Bulkhead/wall at quarterdeck is too low in scale, and position interferes with cannon. This can be dealt with in a number of ways.

    A. Move bulkhead further aft which will clear the cannon

    B. Change spacing between gun ports to make room.

2. For bulkhead height there are two solutions, but keeping it at its current height makes the aft two gunports useless as there is not enough over head to use the cannons.

    A. Raise the quarterdeck height, this will entail redesigning the bulwarks and railing

    B. Lower the deck height past the bulkhead, also rendering the cannons useless.

    C. Add a companionway hatch and lower a portion of the deck, allowing the cannons to be used.

 

I'll have to carefully weigh the options and modify the plans as needed.

 

Jim

 

 

 

[Oldsalt1950]

After weighing the options the following has been decided upon. The removable bulkhead and door will be moved aft and the quarter deck will be raised to make the aft cannon useable. This will also entail some changes to the transom and the quarterdeck railing. Doing this will make the aft area of the Fair American look a bit more like Rattlesnake from each side. Other things that must now be taken into account are the main boom.

 

Jim

 

[Gregory]

Another one of my projects on the shelf that I hope to tackle some day.  I will be watching your progress with interest.

You may have already discovered this, but I find Pete Jaquith's log to be an excellent resource.  He moved that bulkhead also.

[Oldsalt1950]

After much studying of the plans and even more deliberation, I have decided to take a much different tack in my FA build. There are going to be some major modifications to make the cabin, quarterdeck and cannons work. I'm not raising the quarterdeck and associated bulkhead. That would have destroyed the fine lines of the ship as almost an inch would have been added atop the current bulwarks aft of frame 13. 

Here is the new plan:

1. Move the bulkhead for the great cabin aft to frame 15. This eliminates any interference with the cannon. The great cabin is no longer so great. It will also move the ships wheel aft. No major surgery is needed. the cabin bulkhead can remain at its present height the cabin floor will just need to be dropped to compensate. 

2. The exposed main deck now is longer by a few frames but the ships over all lines do not change.

3. Some rigging points will now be on the new extended bulwarks along the port/starboard side as opposed to their current locations.

Those of you who have the FA kit can see looking at the plans what this does. Other changes will be the elimination of the badged windows on the aft port/starboard quarter, the railing will also need a little re-design but will get to that when it needs to be installed.

 

Jim

[Oldsalt1950]

I'm glad I took the time to really go over the plans before getting too far into the build. In addition to the issue with the quarterdeck bulkhead location, and its height vis a vis being able to man the aft cannon, I found a few more nagging problems. The aft pin rails need to be modified and re-located. Who in their right mind is going to put them over a cannon? The ladders going from the main deck to the quarterdeck have too many steps. While the model of "Fair American" may look pretty, it is not a model of any ship that sailed. There are just too many issues between an actual vessel and the model. That being said, I will build a vessel that could have sailed based on the FA hull. The re-engineering and redesign continue. Eventually I will be able to get beyond the framing stage and construct a ship.

 

Jim

 

[Dave_E]

Glad you made the decision to hang with your build logs! 👍 I’ll watch this one as well while you wait for parts on the Rattlesnake. 👍😀

[Oldsalt1950]

Fairing and final beveling process is about to begin. I have some shimming that needs to be done to ensure a smooth transition as can be seen from the photos below. These are all the starboard side,

[Oldsalt1950]

While waiting for the shims I just glued in to set and cure. I am reevaluating whether to make the FA into a 14 gun ship or 16. At 14 guns similar to what Pete Jaquith did, there can be a great cabin, at 16 guns not so much so as the cabin would start at the next to last aft bulkhead frame. I leaning more towards 14 guns for aesthetic reasons as it would compliment the hull lines as is much more pleasing to the eye. I also have a few more changes I am mulling over one of which is a ship's name change to the "Wendy Kay" in memory of my deceased wife. Stay tuned to see what else i may change as I progress in the build.

 

Jim

 

[Oldsalt1950]

Have been working on the waterways, well to be more precise experimenting. The kit supplied stock is (2) pieces of 5/32 x 1/8 timber which is in no way east to try and bend to fit the curve of the edge of the deck without kinking or breaking. The obvious solution would be to make a laminate or make the waterway in pieces to make the curve. So off I went seeing what could be done. To make a laminated waterway took about 4 hours total and I haven't established the edge profile yet. I did however also manage to actually bend that 5/32 x 1/8 timber without kinking or cracking it, time invested 14 hours. Lots of hot water and clamps involved. it too needs an edge profile. Thick timbers can be bent to fairly tight curves if you take your time and are very careful and lucky. 

 

Jim

 

[Oldsalt1950]

No pictures, progress is slow but steady. Stern filler blocks are slowly being shaped, and so is the taper and cut out of the stem for the figurehead ( should have done this before mounting the stem) Will need to order some bits and pieces from Chuck at Syren, specifically cannon and their carriages', and a few fiddle blocks. Once that is done and the parts arrive, hull planking can begin. I'm still working on changes to the ship that would make it more reasonably workable as a model of a real privateer, rather than a model of a model with no pedigree.

 

Jim

 

[Oldsalt1950]

Stern filler blocks have been shaped and installed, stem tapering completed, and Timberhead and knightheads installed and tapered. Next will be building and installing the transom frame and transom, transom lights and wings along with the cap railing which curves all the way over the transom. I'll take pictures of that. Have to decide how many transom lights to install, some have installed 7, some five. Have determined that all the stern decorations will be omitted on The Wendy Kay. This is after all a merchant ship converted to privateer. Not to mention most American ships of war were purpose built and didn't have all the fancy decorations. Paint scheme will also be fairly plain. 

 

Jim

[Oldsalt1950]

Here are some progress pictures, in the stern pictures you will notice the cross piece is canted to starboard, I'm still working on the placement of the stern lights. The crosspiece is there to establish the spacing of the uprights and will be corrected before the stern lights are installed. The plans for the ship call for transom wings to be installed, but I am eliminating them, as they look like elephant ears. Ship will look much nicer without them, much sleeker lines.

 

Jim

[chuckthedragon]

Jim!  Enjoying your progress.  I too thought to solve the problem of the cramped space for the aftermost guns.  When I built the FA the first time in the late 90's I ended up leaving the aftermost guns off the ship.   I tried to take advantage of the logs of more expert modelers and move the cabin bulkhead back a bit and respace the guns.  I wish I had moved the bulkhead farther aft.  I never did think of the headroom problem for the cabin guns - great catch!  Looking forward to pictures of your revision to the stern of the Wendy Kay!