HMS Greyhound by Srenner - Corel - 1:100

[allanyed]

When you print the barrels from the 3D drawing you posted they will look MUCH better than the barrel in the second photo.  Congrats on going the extra mile, even at this small scale.

 

Allan

[Srenner]

After 2 print fails I have managed to get about ten nice barrels out and start the  task of making twenty guns.

 

The scale is very small so the details are tiny but happy enough with it so far.

[allanyed]

The barrels look super Srenner.

Allan

[Srenner]

Is it sacrilege to continue to make things on the 3d printer verses make out of wood for this kit? To me the laser cut plywood for the main top looks dumb and I was going to paint it black anyway so why not plastic 3d? Can print the rail and the main top together with all the details

[Srenner]

Suddenly the greyhound is the most popular model being built right now

*laughs* 

 

Anyways- instead of bending 40 tiny pieces of brass sheet I did the Cannon bolt plates in the 3d printer. Printed all 40 off in one time. Sweet!

[Srenner]

Replacing virtually all the molding's on the kit, I've done a ships wheel based on the picture below. When I print it it will be three pieces and I will glue it together.

[Srenner]

It's always harrowing when you move house and you have to move the current project. Hoping nothing gets broken off or bent. Happy to say the flotilla is back together and all the boats happy.

 

The plastic models.. a little bit bent.. and need dusting

[Srenner]

I am moving onto the masts now. The fore mast is nearing completion. I did a brass rail for the fore top but steel iron wasn't used much in 1720 was it. Should it be wooden  and say turned ballistrade with rail or can I keep the one I made here?

[Srenner]

I've completed the fore mast, just have to taper last section. The kit supplied parts take a bit of alteration so that the mast is straight. Have to make the hole in the fore top slightly longer on a bow to stern axis to get the two pieces of dowel straight.

 

I wanted a aged look to the mast so I used a dark timber stain to bring out the dowel grain. Then light sand. Then used linseed oil to dark the light wood colour.

 

I'm going to gloss them up with a coat of shellac at the end.

 

Picture of the completed wheel , 3d printed and painted

[Srenner]

Starting to make progress on the main and the fore mast. The woodlings have gone on thr fore cast and made the main top.

 

Have put bees on the bowspit and figure of eight lashings on the jib boom. No spirit top on this model.

 

Next is the woodlings for the bowspit and start the heart blocks for the shrouds.

[Srenner]

Working on the bowspit collars as per 1719 collar arrangement with the heart blocks on the bottom for the Bobstays amd the deadeyes for the fore preventer stay and the forestay.

 

Tried my first gammoning and ok with the result.. at 1/100 scale hard to get a perfect knot but happy enough.

 

Pretty much I'm ignoring the kit rigging plan and just using the lee's book. 

Edited April 19 by Srenner

[Srenner]

Taking a break from the model ship building and visited a beautiful happy place, Greenwich UK and the maritime museum.

 

Loved the displays and lots of beautiful ship models here. Absolutely gorgeous 😍 

 

Plus the Cutty Sark , what more could you ask for?

 

[Srenner]

After being back from Europe for 4 weeks, I am starting to get back into the model ship building. 

 

I have been working on the mast sections and starting to near completion.

 

The way I did the mast tapers was through squaring the dowel at the taper end then using a drill and a file to round it off and decrease the taper down from that to the base.

 

No one is going to get the vernier out to see if the taper is correct as the amount of ropes etc make looking at the mast detail difficult. 

 

After seeing so many other model ships in Greenwich and else where I am going to remodel some parts of the ship to make them simpler. Ships are not made to have lots of fine detail. HMS Victory was very utilitarian on the inside and outside.

 

And finally a pack of Vallejo game colour paints arrived after being out of stock for six months. Going to get down to painting up the figure head and clarifying the bow area of HMS Greyhound

[Srenner]

After seeing the bow of such vessels as HMS Victory I didn't like the 3d printed one I had on Greyhound so I pulled it off. Also to do the gammoning rope around the bowspit.

 

Anyway I'm going to have another go at 3d printing some decorative rails that meet up better with the figure head. Rather than guess about the complicated curves in this area I tried to mock up with some wire the run of the rails, take some photos and then use a nurbs curve in blender to create a print file.

 

Plus, minus the rails will go along roughly with these lines. But of course will print them and if I don't like them then print them again.

[Steelwheel]

Nice to see that it continues here, hope you have recovered well on vacation. Now you can get back to work with new energy....

[Srenner]

I've finished the 3d printed rails so it was time to paint the good print of Mrs greyhound... a little apprehensive as painting figures is not my fortay and it's bloody small but the vallejo game colour kit seems to give the skirt some good highlights... and for a 4k printer the level of detail is good.

 

So for a figurine you have never seen before posed by merehuman and printed on a anycubic 4k here she is....

[Bill Morrison]

On 12/10/2022 at 6:28 AM, allanyed said:

Your comment brought up an interesting point.   What was the smallest ship in the RN considered a ship of the line.  I thought a ship of the line was a fourth rate or larger but could be dead wrong on this.   Not the most important piece of info in the world, just curious.

Thanks

Allan  

Yes, the smallest ships that could be considered as ships-of-the-line were Fourth Rates. They had between 60-68 guns.  Next up included Third Rates, ships of 70 to 84 guns. Second Rates were up to 98 guns, while First Rates were any ship above 100.  Please note that these ratings were very dependent on periodicity.  For example, the ratings were vastly different during the first Anglo-Dutch War and the Third Anglo-Dutch War, even though the wars began in the 1650s-1670s. They continued upwards until the mid-1760s.  However. please note that these ratings differed for the Dutch, whose ship sizes were regulated by the shallow waters in their harbors and the North Sea.

 

The Greyhound was never considered to be a ship-of-the-line. As a Sixth Rate, she was considered a small Frigate.

 

Bill

[Srenner]

After hours and hours of mucking around in blender in a 3d curve environment, I'm alot happier with the head rails etc under the bowspit. They are copied quite closely to sister ship hms blandford.

 

And very different from the original kit rails. Look it isn't perfect but to wrangle the curves in blender and print them out was cool and given me so much learning for bigger models in the future. I am pretty confident this will be the blueprint for this area in future. And I can scupt some nice decoration nexr time to fit in there. 

 

And Mrs greyhound has something to stand on and hopefully not fall off into the water!

[Steelwheel]

Hi Stuart,

Mrs Greyhound look great, she fits the bow perfectly!

[Srenner]

Laughing right now... just went back and read the first entry in the log... 6-9 months to finish... yeah right! It's been over 2 years so far

[Srenner]

Finally finished the gun deck. Getting the hooks and loops into the side of the ship very difficult and tested my eye sight and skills with twizzers and pliers.

 

[Srenner]

I bought some beginner books from Amazon about square rigging and ship modelling from the recommended list on this very site.

 

So while they coming i did refer to the frank martini book ship modelling simplified and started to rig up the fore stays in pairs and taping them down first. 

 

But have also realized using the rigging for English boats book that this model does not have enough shroud deadeyes in the channels to be accurate. In the Lee's book it says seven deadeyes in the fore mast shrouds which makes sense being six plus one preventer shroud. 

 

So decision time do I rip the channels off and try and bodge a new channels or go with the kit? Also suspecting the kit provided blocks, deadeyes and rope all not to scale so makes it difficult to progress with more accuracy.

 

I'm comfortable progressing knowing that the kit will be a good beginners guide and not get hung up on the technical accuracy. There are many skills still to gain so everything a learning.

[Gregory]

33 minutes ago, Srenner said:

I'm comfortable progressing knowing that the kit will be a good beginners guide and not get hung up on the technical accuracy.

I think that sounds like a good plan.

[Steelwheel]

Hi Stuart,

I think in the end you have to be satisfied with the result. You then take a lot with you that you will do differently or better in the next project.

I Like the result!