Frigate Diana by RossR - OcCre - 1:85

[RossR]

David
 

Thank you. Your HMS Diana build has been a great resource for me.  Fantastic job.   A different Diana than I am building but similar era.  I have a note to myself to look at your anchors when I get to that step on my build.  

[RossR]

Sometimes mistakes create opportunities.   I have been posting details of my build as items have been attached to the model.   Sometimes I have build certain items weeks or months before I post about them.   Even though I haven’t posted about it I have been busy fabricating the components of the fore mast assembly.   
 

This morning I put the final coat of paint on the cross tree for the transition from the fore top mast to the fore top gallant mast.   At some point in the day I accidentally knocked the cross tree on the floor without realizing it.   Later I must have rolled over it with my chair. 
 

 

Occre would gladly send me replacement parts, but I didn’t want to wait.   So I decided this was an opportunity to fabricate a new cross tree from scratch.   I used the plywood sheet that the laser cut pieces were cut from as the pattern and traced the pieces onto some 2mm x 5mm lime wood left over from the first layer of planking.  
 

 

I need to do a little more sanding and then paint and glue the pieces together, but I am pretty happy with the results.  
 

Edited October 8, 2023 by RossR

[RossR]

I haven’t made much progress on the ship.  Fall projects and my daughter’s soccer season have kept me busy.   When I have had time to get in the shipyard, I have been practicing some of the new skills I want to use in rigging the ship.   Spent time practicing serving with my Serv-O-Magic and working on seizing the shrouds around the masts, putting together the slings for the yards and figuring out how I wanted to fabricate a mouse.   
 

The following pictures are of some of my practice attempts.   I used the rope that came with the kit for practice.   The fixed rigging on my model will use rope purchased from Syren.    
 

This is my attempt at serving the top portion of the shrouds.   I will serve the entire length of the first should on each mast, the other shrouds will be served to just above the futtock stave.   
 

 

I need to work on cleaner knots where my serving ends, but am pretty happy with the results.  
 

next is a couple of attempts at a mouse.   The loop that would wrap around the mast is too small on these attempts, but pretty happy with my progress on creating the small loop with a false splice. 
 

 

the mouse is build from a bit of basswood.   The one on top turned out better.   Again the knots need to be a little neater.  
 

Next is my attempt at a sling.   The splice on the part that wraps around the yard is not very good, but I can hide it between the yard and the mast.  
 

 

The thimbles will be blackened on the model.  
 

overall pretty happy with my progress developing some better rigging skills. 
 

 

Edited October 24, 2023 by RossR

[RossR]

I have made some progress on the chain plate recently.  I used the directions for the US Brig Syren as a basis for making the chain plate for this model.  I experimented a little with the lengths for the various segments.  I used black annealed wire to make the chain plate.  I built the jig below to create the various segments.  

 

 

I dry fit the foremast assembly so I could match the angle for each of the shrouds and backstays for each of the chain plate assemblies.  I have waited to add the gun port frames and hatches because I don't trust myself not to break the open hatches off.  I will add those at the very end.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last but not least.  Happy Veterans Day (or Remembrance Day to members in the UK) to all those who serve.  Thank you.

Edited November 11, 2023 by RossR

[RossR]

 

I have competed building and installing the foremast and started the standing rigging.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Occre rigging plan included two diameters of line for the standing rigging.  I upgraded the ropes to some that I purchased from Syren and will modify the rigging plan to include about 5 different diameters.  The fore shrouds are 0.030 inch diameter and I served the entire length of the first shroud and served the portion of the other shrouds that wrap around the mast.  

 

My ship has an odd number of shrouds.  There was some recent discussion on another build log about whether the shroud that isn't part of a pair should be installed first or last.  I have chosen to install mine first.  I don't know what the historically correct way would be on a Spanish frigate, but this is the way I chose to go.  

 

The fore top mast shrouds and the fore top gallant shrouds will be 0.018 inch ropes along with the backstays.  The ratlines will be 0.008 rope.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next up will be adding the ratlines.  Then the futtock stave and shrouds.  

 

 

[RossR]

I have completed the ratlines on the lower shrouds.  I used .008 inch diameter rope from Syren.  The ratlines are place 4mm apart from each other.  At this scale that works out the a little over 13" spacing.

 

 

There are a total of 30 ratlines per side.  With 7 shrouds per side, that works out to 420 clove hitches.  I now need to add the futtock stave and the futtock shrouds.  This will be my first model with a futtock stave.  I am looking forward to adding this feature.  My HMS Beagle had the futtock shrouds pass through the lower shrouds and attached directly to the lower mast.  I am hoping to have this work done by the end of the weekend.  

 

[DaveBaxt]

On 10/8/2023 at 11:23 PM, RossR said:

Sometimes mistakes create opportunities.   I have been posting details of my build as items have been attached to the model.   Sometimes I have build certain items weeks or months before I post about them.   Even though I haven’t posted about it I have been busy fabricating the components of the fore mast assembly.   
 

This morning I put the final coat of paint on the cross tree for the transition from the fore top mast to the fore top gallant mast.   At some point in the day I accidentally knocked the cross tree on the floor without realizing it.   Later I must have rolled over it with my chair. 
 

 

Occre would gladly send me replacement parts, but I didn’t want to wait.   So I decided this was an opportunity to fabricate a new cross tree from scratch.   I used the plywood sheet that the laser cut pieces were cut from as the pattern and traced the pieces onto some 2mm x 5mm lime wood left over from the first layer of planking.  
 

 

I need to do a little more sanding and then paint and glue the pieces together, but I am pretty happy with the results.  
 

Nice work

[RossR]

Here is my latest update.  The first thing I did was create the hooks that attach the futtock shrouds to the deadeye strops.  I made these out of some small eyebolts.  They measure about 1/8th of an inch.

 

 

These were the first items that I blackened with Birchwood Casey Brass Black.  I soaked the parts overnight in alcohol to remove any oils from handling.  I am not sure how long the soak needed to be, but I left the parts over night just to be sure.  After a rinse in distilled water and allowing the items to dry I soaked them for about 30 minutes in white vinegar.  Another rinse in distilled water and then into the Birchwood Casey solution.  A minute or so in the solution and the items turned a nice uniform dark grey / black color.

 

 

I lashed the .018 inch diameter line to the hooks using a technique similiar to one that Glenn-UK discussed in his Indefatagable build log using alternating overhand knots.

 

 

 

 

The futtock stave is made from a piece of brass rod that was painted brown.  I lashed that to the shrouds using criss-crossing overhand knots after struggling to tie a clove hitch to secure the stave in the tight space.

 

 

I have the top mast shrouds added also.  These are the same .018 diameter line used on the futtock shrouds.  The rate lines have been added also.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This was the cross tree that I had to rebuild from scratch after rolling over the original one with my chair.

 

Next up are the top gallant shrouds.  After those are installed I will shift away from the rigging to build the main mast and the channels and chain plate associated with the main mast.  I enjoy the rigging, but when I built my first ship I have to admit that after building all the masts and yards and then doing all the rigging, both steps got a little tedious.  This time I am breaking up both steps a little bit.  My plan is to add each mast and the shrouds associated with that mast, when all the masts are up I will add the stays, backstays, and all the running rigging.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 6, 2023 by RossR

[RossR]

I have finished the top gallant shrouds on the foremast.  My plan is to build each mast and then add the shrouds for that mast.  After the three masts are installed with their shrouds I will add the bow sprite which I have already build and add the stays and back stays, then I will start building and adding the yards.  I am pretty happy with the rigging so far.  The futtock shrouds and stave just below the top gallant shrouds were tough to get tied properly.  Not a lot of space to work with.

 

 

 

Now on the the main mast.  I don't think I took very many pictures when I built the fore mast, so I will try to get a few more as I build the main mast.  

 

[RossR]

Thanks for all the views and likes on my earlier posts.  I realized that I didn't document the building of the foremast components very well, so I took a lot more pictures of the the construction of the main mast and will share them here.  On this model the foremast and mainmast are nearly identical except for the main mast being slightly taller.  

 

The first thing I did was remove the top from the plywood sheet. I then soaked a section of 1mm x 4mm Sapelli in hot water and used the top as a form and clamped the sapelli to the top to create the curved trim piece for the front of the top.

 

 

I applied a coat of Minwax Honey Oak stain to the top and then a couple of coats of shellac to the top and the Sapelli trim pieces.  The trestle tree is attached  to the bottom of the top is painted an off white color that I have been using on the ship.  The trim pieces were installed as well as a 2mm x 3mm piece of Sapelli along the aft edge of the top.  This provide a solid base for the stanchions that hold the rail along the aft side of the top.

 

 

 

Next up was adding the ribs on the top surface of the top.  The ribs were made of 2mm x 2mm Sapelli and each rib was beveled toward the center of the top.  I created the bevel with a 5 inch disc sander.  I added the bevel to the end of a longer piece of wood then cut the length off that I needed for the rib and used the disc sander to add the angles needed at each end of the rib. 

 

 

I have a very inexpensive disk sander that cost about $35 from Menard's on sale.  It has its limitations, but, like a lot of people when they start in a hobby like this they can't afford the best of all tools.  I found that if I am careful setting the angles on the table and the T-square I can get good results.  The distance between the table and the disk is a little bigger than ideal, so really small pieces are a problem, but this is a case where an less expensive tool can still be a good value compared to the more expensive sanders if you understand and accept its limitations.  I still hope to get a better machine someday, but I won't feel bad about the $35 spent on this one.  

 

After adding the stanchions I fabricated the rail out of a piece of 1/16 x 1/8 inch African Mahogany purchased at a local hobby shop.  The kit supplied 1mm x 4mm Sapelli for this and I found it didn't "look" right.  The material was too thin to fit snuggly in the stanchions and the 4mm dimension looked way too big for the purpose.  I needed to sand the 1/16 inch material a little bit thinner to fit into the stanchions, but I am much happier with this material.  I did the same thing with railings on the deck of the ship. 

 

  

 

The next step was to start fabricating the main mast.  a 10 mm dowel was provided for this purpose.  the top section needs to be reduced to 8 mm to fit the opening on the trestle tree and for the cap.  I reduce the dowel by scoring a line with an Exacto knife and using the knife to remove a little bit of material above that line.  I then use a small plane to remove additional material.  I then carefully put the dowel into my drill and use sand paper to round the section that has been planed.  Arrow #1 in the below picture shows this section of the mast.  

 

I then sanded either side of the mast flat on a section just below the narrowed section to facilitate gluing the bibs on securely.  Arrow #2 shows this section.  I then sanded the section below the bibs and on the front of the mast flat to facilitate gluing the cheeks.  I didn't sand this section as much, because the material for the cheeks was thinner than the bibs and I wanted to minimize the step between the bib and the check.  Arrow #3 shows this section.

 

 

The bibs were laser cut plywood and the cheeks were fabricated out of 1 mm x 8 mm Lime wood.  They were painted the same off white as the trestle tree  They were glued to the mast after the mast was painted dark brown.

 

 

At this point I ran into a problem.  I didn't get the bibs attached level with each other.  I already had the checks attached and didn't want want to remove everything.  I decided to add a shim to the top of the the bib that was too low.

 

 

 

 

After sanding and paint, it hardly shows.

 

 

Next up was the top mast.  This started as a 6 mm dowel that tapered down to 4 mm at the top.  I used a plane to remove most of the material and then my drill and some sand paper to smooth everything out and get the taper just right.  I sanded the areas that the bibs were glued to so I would have a flat surface, and assembled the cross tree from the laser cut parts. 

 

 

The top gallant mast is made from a 4 mm dowel that was tapered down to 3 mm at the top using the same method as the top mast.  The blocks for both sets of the lifts are attached to a single line and attached to the mast using a clove hitch.  The blocks for the halyards are seized to the mast above the clove hitch for the lifts.

 

Next was the wooldings.  I used this technique on my HMS Beagle, I think Eck recently demonstrated it on his Indefatigable build log also (I think it was Eck, it was one of the other great Indy build logs I am sorry).  I create a loop with my line and then wrap the line across itself towards the loop.  then pass the line through the loop and pull snug.  If adding a block I just seize the block to a loop of line and pass the wooding through the loop.  There is a Youtube video demonstrating this on the bow sprit of a Santisima Trinidad build.  

 

 

 

 

Next up will be the channels and chain plates.  Work will be keeping me busy for the next 4 - 6 weeks, so I probably won't have anything to post for quite awhile.  Thanks, and enjoy the holidays over the next week or so.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[allanyed]

9 hours ago, RossR said:

  If adding a block I just seize the block to a loop of line and pass the wooding through the loop. 

Hi Ross,

 

Live and learn, this is a new one for me.  Which lines would have a block attached to the wooldings?  I realize this may not apply to ships other than those of the RN, but based on James Lees', The Masting and Rigging English Ships of War, there were always wooden bands nailed to the mast on the top and bottom of rope wooldings so they could not slip on the mast.  This makes sense for any nation.   I cannot picture how a block can be rigged to these with them enclosed inside the wooden rings.  

 

Thanks

 

Allan

Edited December 24, 2023 by allanyed

[RossR]

Allen

 

Please Don’t use me as a historically accurate source of information.  You have forgotten more about ships than I will ever know.   After looking online for quite awhile I did recently acquire a used copy of Lees book.  It isn’t easy to find without paying an arm and a leg. I am always a little nervous buying a book used online, but I found someone who seemed trustworthy.  I haven’t had time to read much yet, but hope to use to improve my rigging in the future.  
 

This may be a case of me misreading the plans.  Below is a clip from the plans.  I may have incorrectly thought this block was attached to the woolding.  The blocks are used for the downhaulers for some of the stay sails

 

 

As I mentioned in my post, I saw this technique in a YouTube video used to attach blocks to a bow sprit.  Probably should have questioned it more.   Hopefully moving forward I can use Lees book to do a better job.  As always, that’s for the feedback. 
 

Ross

[allanyed]

16 hours ago, RossR said:

This may be a case of me misreading the plans.

Hi Ross,

I don't think you are misreading the plans, the plans look to be incorrect.  There is a great description in your Lees book (congrats on getting a copy!!) on pages 2 to 4.

 

Thanks for the compliment when you wrote You have forgotten more about ships than I will ever know, it was a very nice thing to say.  Trust me Ross, I am no expert compared to many members here and I do forget things from terminology to methods all the time.   I just have been fortunate to have accumulated a good library of books, plans, and contracts over the years and use them as references all the time.    Regarding forgetting things, in general it's  part of life and in the words of Bette Davis:  😀

Allan

Edited December 24, 2023 by allanyed

[RossR]

I didn't expect to have an update this soon.  I had one last day off for the Christmas holiday on Tuesday and made some progress getting the chain plate components ready. I thought I would give a little more detail on my process with the main mast than I did when I posted about the fore mast.  I am using 24 gauge black annealed wire.  I think it might be just a little on the heavy side for my scale, but I think it is not so over scale to look too big.  As I said in my earlier post, I am deviating from the plans provided by Occre which instructed to use a single strand of brass wire for the chain plate.  I am using the instructions for the US Brig Syren from Model Shipways as my basis for the chain plate. 

 

I started with the deadeye strops.  My jig was set up to create a strop that would measure about 5 mm from the bottom of the deadeye to the bottom of the strop.  I start by by creating a loop with the wire and wrapping it around the deadeye.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I use round tipped pliers to pinch the wire tight around the deadeye and wrap the wire around the bottom nail on the jig.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then simply cut the two ends to create the strop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I then placed the deadeyes in the channel and glued a strip of 1 mm x 2 mm wood to the channel to secure the deadeyes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next I assembled the middle links.  After trying a few different lengths to figure out the right combination, I settled on a length of 7mm.  I used a small vise grip pliers to hold one end of the wire and created a loop around the nails on my jig.  I then used a flat tipped pliers to create the shape I wanted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I cut the loose ends of the wire and then used the flat tipped pliers to flatten and improve the shape of the middle link.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pretty happy with the final result.  I will need to pry open the links to attach the middle links to the toe links and the strops.  

 

 

The process for the toe links started the same as the middle link, except when I cut the loose end I was careful to make the cut about 1/3 from the end of the loop.  I then placed the loop back onto the jig and used the round tipped pliers to close the loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I then used the flat tipped pliers to add the bend in the link.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last item is the preventer link.  This piece is slightly smaller at 5mm.  The process is the same as the toe link except the cut to remove the loose ends of the wire is made in the middle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I will make a few extra items in some different lengths to make adjustments to fit around the gun ports.  This is probably more detail that most of you want or need about how I made my chain plate components.  Next up will be serving the shrouds and getting the channels installed on the ship and the chainplate secured at the correct angles.  

Edited December 28, 2023 by RossR

[RossR]

As I expected my progress has slowed a little bit.  I did find some time on New Year's Day to make some progress.  I was able to get the channels installed and the chain plate attached to the hull.  There were a lot of conflicts with the gun ports, so I had to make adjustments to the standard arrangement on a number of deadeyes.  

 

 

I have seen the advice on the forum that you should judge your work from a distance of 24 - 30 inches since that is how close most people will be to your model when they view it.  I think that is how I need to judge the chain plate.  I am happy with the result, but from a couple feet away it looks more realistic than when you are zoomed in this close.

 

I then started getting the main shrouds ready.  I have a total of 9 shrouds on each side, so like on the foremast I will add the single shroud first.  That one is served for the entire length of the shroud.  Does anyone know why the first shroud was served the entire lenghth?

 

The remaining shrouds will be served to just above the futtock stave.   As I have mentioned in previous posts, I am using the Syren Serv-O-Matic.  I am getting a little better at serving on this group of shrouds compared the ones on the fore mast.  I start by placing two small peices of tape on the line to mark the portion that needs to be served.  for this ship I am serving 2.75 inches.  I use a needle to pass the serving line through the line being served and tie it off.  After I get the 2.75 inches served I use the needle again to pass the serving line through the line and tie it off. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I then create a small loop slightly bigger than the mast it will be placed on and seize the loop closed.  I use a series of overhand knots on alternating sides of the line to simulate the seizing.  

 

When I was ready to start using the Serv-O-Matic I reached out to Chuck to ask for a recommendation on the type of thread to use for the serving.  I didn't ask for a recommendation on the color.  I think I ended up choosing a color that is identical to the color used on the rope I purchased from Syren.  That may be a realistic look (I assume the line and the serving are coated with the same material), but at 1/85 scale it is a little difficult to see that the line is served unless you are really close.  I think on my next ship I will make sure I have a slightly lighter or darker color just to make the serving a little more visable.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After placing the shrouds over the mast, I am very happy with the way this turned out.  I will need to make sure that I keep the lines nice and neat at the mast as I start connecting the deadeys.  

 

 

I feel that I have improved at my knots on the serving and the seizing.   Next I will add the top mast and the topmast shrouds.  I should have a little time this weekend, so hopefully I can post about it after later next week.

 

 

 

Edited January 6 by RossR

[wvdhee]

Very nice work!

[RossR]

Last month I posted that work was going to get in the way for awhile, and as expected progress on the ship has been slow.  I did manage to get the main shrouds attached. 

 

 

I managed to do a better job lining up the deadeyes on the main shrouds than I did on the fore mast shrouds.   
 

 

I have the ratlines added to the starboard side.  I figure I am about halfway through the ratlines.  I have tied 1029 clove hitches so far.  
 

I purchased this model when I was almost finished with my HMS Beagle.  I thought if I enjoyed rigging the Beagle get something even bigger with more rigging.  After all those clove hitches I understand why so many people build cutters instead of frigates.   
 

Thanks for all the views.  On to the port side.  

[RossR]

It has been a month since my last post.  Work has kept me busy so progress has been a little slow.  I finally finished all of the shrouds and ratlines on the main mast.  The main shrouds are .030 inch diameter ropes and the rest of the shrouds are .018 inch diameter ropes.  The ratlines are .008 inch diameter rope.  All of the dark ropes are from Syren.  For the lanyards I used the natural lines provided by Occre.

 

 

 

 

I find the futtock stave at the top of the top mast shrouds to be particularly challenging to work with.  The space between the shrouds is so small that I really struggle manipulating the lines to lash the stave  to the shroud and then to lash to futtock shrouds to the top mast shrouds after they wrap around the stave is equally difficult.  The close up photography is not very forgiving, but from 12 - 24 inches away with the naked eye I am pretty happy with the results.

 

Next up will be the mizzen mast, then on to the backstays and stays.

 

[RossR]

I finally finished the mizzen mast.  The assembly was simply a smaller version of the main mast without the cheeks and wooldings.  I enjoy the rigging process, but I am glad to move on from shrouds and ratlines for a while.  For a while I was keeping track of the number of clove hitches I tied, but I stopped at about 1800.  

 

 

 

 

 

I have also started adding the gun port hatches.  I will post about them in a later post.  

 

Next up will be the bowsprit and the stays.  The bowsprit is already built.  I posted about that earlier.  The stays will be installed using a mouse.  this will be a first to me and I am looking forward to that.  

 

 

[RossR]

I have the bowsprit done less the dolphin stryker.  I will hold off attaching that as long as possible.  I am convinced I will break it off while working on another part of the ship.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

If anyone is interested, I thought I would share how I seize a block.  There are others, such as Johan on his French Corvette, that produce unbelievable results, but I am not able to duplicate his results with my skill and maybe partially due to the scale I am building at.  Here is how I am seizing the blocks.

 

I sometimes use a helping hand device, but usually I just use self closing tweezers.  I create a small loop in the line.  for purposes of scale the grid on this cutting mat has 1 cm squares.  In this case line is .018 mm line from Syren.

 

 

I then make three loops with loops of thread and tuck one end through the loops.  I am Mara thread from Gutterman.  It is the 120 size, but I can't explain what those numbers mean.  The sizing on thread is a mystery to me.

 

 

The loop is placed of over the line that is being held in the tweezers and tightened on the line.  

 

 

I will add a couple of overhand knots alternating the sides on the overhand knots to ensure the knot stays tight.  I will slide the knot up a little to create an opening just big enough to accommodate the block the place the block in the loop and then use a pair of tweezers to slide the knot up tight against the block.  A few more alternating overhand knots to ensure tightness.

 

 

 

 

Then remove the line from the self closing tweezers and create a second loop.  

 

 

I add a couple more overhand knots to create the loop that will go over the spar or yard or what ever you are attaching the block too.  Remove the block from the tweezer and place in the item you are seizing it too.  Pull both ends of the line tight and add a couple more alternating overhand knots to secure the block.  

 

 

Trim off the excess line and use some diluted varnish or diluted PVA to secure the knot.  Use as few overhand knots as you can and still secure it tightly to avoid looking too clunky.  

 

 

Not sure if this is the best way to secure a block, but it works for me and I thought I would share it.  

 

 

 

Edited March 30 by RossR

[RossR]

I have made some progress on the stays.  I have to thank Thukydides for sharing his techniques.  Both for the mouse and for splicing the lines to create the loop.  I started with the fore stay and main stay.  Both of these are made from .044 inch line.  This line has four strands and being a little thicker made the splicing a little easier than I experienced with some of my earlier attempts.  

 

I start by serving about 1/2 inch of the line.  It is hard to see the serving in the photo, but it is the section between the arrows.  I then cut the line about an inch from the end of the serving and separate the strands on that section.

 

 

I then create a small loop and start to pass the four strands through the line below the loop.  I try to pass each strand through the line 2 -4 times staggering how far down the line each strand goes.  I hope to get a smooth taper after the line is served below the loop.

 

 

 

I am creating a false splice and it will not hold under tension on its own.  I tie a loop of thin thread around the splice below the loop to secure it.  

 

 

 

I then serve the line from the loop down to just below the spot that the mouse will go.  I add some diluted varnish to help hold the bend in the loop. 

 

 

Next is fabricating the mouse.  I start with a 4mm x 4mm peice of wood.   I drill a small hole just big enough for the served line to fit through with as snug of a fit as possible.  I used a 1.2 mm drill bit for the .044 line and a 1mm bit for the .030 line.

 

 

After using a knife to create a very rough shape, I put the wood into a drill and use sand paper and a file to round the mouse and refined the shape.

 

 

 

After sliding the mouse on the line I add a few half hitches with a thread above the mouse to be sure it doesn't slide up the the line by accident.  

 

 

Thukydides then coated his mouse with a thin fabric to give it a more realistic texture.  Since I have trouble seeing the serving at this scale sometimes, I decided to just paint the mouse.

 

 

I have fore stay, main stay, fore preventer stay and main preventer stay added.  I am a little confused as to which is the preventer stay.  I am assuming the preventer stay is the one on top.  I have that wrong I apologize.  The main and fore stay are made from .044 inch line and the preventer stays are from .030 line.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I do not think that my results are as good as Thukydides and I would encourage you to check out posts 334 and 434 from his HM Cutter Alert build log.   I will be adding the other stays over the next week or two.

 

I also added the gun port hatches. The kit supplied metal frames and hatches.  I briefly considered trying to build my own, but I choose to move forward with the kit supplied items.  I did choose to paint them.  The small size and detail needed pushed my eyesight to its limit.  I ended up using a 3x magnifier on my work light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After getting through the ratlines I am really enjoying the rigging process again.  Looking forward to starting on the yards.

 

 

 

Edited April 4 by RossR

[RossR]

I have continued my work on the stays and made quite a bit of progress.  After posting my method for making the mouse, I have to admit that I am surprised that nobody asked why I used square stock instead of a round dowel to make the mouse?  I have no idea why I used square stock.  I keep all my little scraps of wood and I guess I grabbed the first thing I saw that would work.  I did switch to using a round dowel when it occurred to me that I was making a little more work for myself.  

 

As I started making the stays higher up the masts and the lines got smaller, I struggled with splicing the line to create the loop.  At .018 inch diameter line, I really struggled.  After trying and failing a few times I started to get the hang of it and in the end I am really happy with the result of the splices I used to create the eyes on the stays. 

 

 

 

I also have completed the bowsprit by adding the dolphin stryker.  

 

 

With all of the stays now done, the next step will be adding the backstays and starting to build the yards, boom and gaph.  

 

 

 

 

Thanks for all the views and likes.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[RossR]

I now have the top mast backstays added for all three masts.   These are .018 rope.  I served the section at the top that wraps around the mast.   
 

I added the top gallant backstay to the fore mast, but I am a little concerned that it will make accessing the pin rails for the running rigging difficult.  For the main and mizzen masts I will plan on waiting to attach the lanyard until after the running rigging is in place.  If I need to I can remove the lanyards on the top gallant backstays for the fore mast and re-attach later if it helps adding the running rigging.  
 

see below fore my concern on the access to the pin rails. 

 

 

 

 

[RossR]

With the standing rigging complete except for the top gallant back stays, I have started making the yards.  The yards on this kit are fairly simple.  They all have a slight taper from the middle towards the end and then a step down to a diameter roughly half the diameter at the center about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from each end of the yard.  I start by cutting a dowel about 1 inch longer than the finished yard, and marking the center, the point that the diameter steps down and then each end of the yard.  I leave the extra inch of material on one end to put in the chuck of my drill for the tapering.

 

 

 

Since the taper from the middle is very slight 1mm - 0.5 mm depending on the starting diameter of the yard, I just use sandpaper to create the taper.   After getting the taper right, I use a knife to cut a small slit at the point of the step on the far end of the yard from the end that is in the chuck of the drill and then with a small chisel or knife I cut away material to rough in the smaller diameter after the step.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The piece goes back into the drill and I use sandpaper to round the end.  

 

 

I then use the knife and chisel to create the step at the other end leaving the extra material for the drill chuck alone.  Then back in the drill and more work with the sandpaper to round the step near the drill chuck.

 

 

 

I then cut the extra material off and clean up the ends.

 

 

 

I will paint these brown after getting a code of shellac to seal them.  I need to make a total of 12 yards.  Then attach all of the blocks that will be needed.  

 

 

 

 

Edited April 24 by RossR

[CiscoH]

i really like your detailed descriptions!  keep it up she looks better and better

[RossR]

I have made some progress on the yards.   The plans in the kit show the stirrups for the foot ropes being made out of an eyebolt that is wrapped with thread to give the appearance on it being rope.  I didn’t care for the look of this.  
 

from a limited amount of research, it seams the stirrups were usually nailed to the yard and then wrapped around it three times.  Nailing a rope seams to be a strange way to attach a rope to anything, then I saw Archjofo‘s example on his French Corvette.  The stirrups were braided first.  The nail still seams an odd choice, but I can envision a nailed braided rope holding.  
 

unfortunately, I tried and failed at braiding the thin ropes to creat the stirrups.  I then tried a regular rope with a spliced loop for the foot rope.  I couldn’t seam to get the spliced loop small enough, and it looked out of scale.   I ended up using the technique that Chuck used in his Model Shipways US Brig Syren and made the stirrups out of black annealed wire.  
 

 

I started adding the blocks using the technique I described in my bow sprite post less using served rope.  This creates a very secure connection, but the block doesn’t always hang naturally.   I came across the YouTube video and decided to give it a try. 

Using this technique allows the blocks to hang more naturally, but I worry they won’t be as secure.   That will only be a concern if I accidentally pull on a line too hard by accident.  
 

here is the main royal yard with the blocks attached my old way and the main top gallant yard with the blocks attached the new way. 
 

 

 

the top picture has the blocks attached the old way.  
 

I am posting this from the airport, and will be traveling for work this week.   I will hopefully get back to the model next week.  
 

[RossR]

I have the main top yard and the main yard completed.  These were similar to the top gallant yard except with the addition of the stuns'l booms.  I deviated from the Occre plans a little with the brackets that hold the stuns'l booms.  As I have on other components, I used the US Brig Syren instructions for the brackets.  I used two pieces brass tubing for the inward bracket and a piece of brass tubing and a piece of brass rod for the outboard bracket.  For soldering, I used a paste for the first time.  It worked great with just the heat from a lighter.  

 

 

I also added a thimble to the main yard for sling.  I this was one of my better splices.  It is time consuming to manually serve the splice and it isn't perfect by any means, but I am pretty happy with the results.

 

 

 

I also had a pretty good view of the northern lights the other night.

 

 

I have the four yards for the fore mast left then time to start tackling the sails.  

 

[RossR]

Life is getting the way.  Progress on the ship has stalled.  My wife and I are moving in early July and have some projects at the current house that are needed and we need to get packed.  After the move it will take me a little time to get the new shipyard put together.  I will post some picks of the work on the new shipyard when I get started.  

 

Hopefully I am back to the ship sometime in August.  

[Coyote_6]

Life has a way of doing that.  Looking forward to seeing the new shipyard!

 

Steve

Edited June 4 by Coyote_6

[RossR]

We have been in the new house for a couple weeks. I haven't unpacked my HMS Beagle (complete) or the Frigate Diana (in progress), but I think they survived the move with little or no damage.  I think I lost a few rope coils on the Beagle, but those can be replaced easily.  The move was only about 15 miles and I drove them myself after carefully constructing the correct size box and creating a soft bed for them to sit in.  

 

 

 

Now the part that is more fun.  Instead of re-purposing a bedroom upstairs we decided to put a wall in an oversized basement family room to create a new shipyard.  The room will be about 9 x 13.  It will accommodate the two workbenches I had before plus I am going to add a tool chest that will house supplies and tools.  There will be enough room left over for a comfy chair for times that I just want to sit and watch a soccer game on the TV.  The wall is framed and partially sheet rocked.  Waiting on an electrician to move some lights and install the outlets in the new wall.  It will have a vinyl planked floor, so no more losing small pieces in the carpet.  

 

It will be a few more weeks before I am back to the build, but the end is in sight.