USCG Harriet Lane by _SalD_ - Model Shipways - 1:96

[_SalD_]

Mounting the cabin & pilothouse:

I ran into a little problem when setting the cabin on the deck.  I think I must have a slight dip in the deck because there's a gap between it and the cabin floor.  I had already installed the base molding so I couldn't adjust that.

In the end I used a bit of wood filler to fill the gap.

Looks a little rough in the closeup but at viewing distance it's not too bad.

My next issue was the ladders located at the rear of the cabin.  The platform extension was not long enough.  Bobandlucy's build mentioned this problem but I read about it after the fact.

I decided to extend the platform in order to fit the ladders.

The handrail holes were redrilled and the platform was repainted.  Being a retired structural engineer I had to add a couple knee braces for looks.

Ladders painted and installed

Forward ladders installed.

 

 

 

 

  

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Nice recoveries !  Necessity is the mother of invention.  Hmmmm, I even remember a group called the 'Mothers of Invention'.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Something I've done on occasion to mate a smaller object to a larger surface (flat or not too curved) is to place a piece of sandpaper (the kind with a 'grippy' back so it resists sliding) down and then run the piece to be mated back and forth with relatively short strokes (and not too much pressure).  That way the places that need to be abraded are reduced until the two surfaces are a match.

Edited June 29, 2023 by Snug Harbor Johnny

[_SalD_]

I like that idea Snug, I'll have to remember it.  Thanks.

[_SalD_]

Cabin Skylights:

After assembling the aft cabin skylight I noticed that the laser etched positioning guidelines on the roof were way to big for the skylight.  I chose to fill in three of the four guidelines with wood filler and then repaint the roof.

Repainted roof

Skylights glued to roof

Funnel assembly:

The funnel assembly was next and the first thing I did was to clean up the britiannia steam pipe and whistle.

After cleaning and straightening.

The funnel was assembled per the instructions using the card stock wrapped around a wooden dowel. I used a scrap piece of dowel inserted in the upper part of the funnel to keep me from crushing the card stock while handling it.

Painted funnel

The two ventilators were cleaned up and painted

Completed funnel assembly

[_SalD_]

The bridges and the main mast bitts were the next task.  After reading bobandlucy's build and seeing how Bob had a problem with the two access ladders for the bridges being too short I decided to move the two platforms inboard a little so the ladders would reach.  I chose not to paint the platforms but left them natural.  I also scored them to simulate planks.

The main mass bitts were assembled, painted and glued in place.

[rcmdrvr]

Everything is looking good.  Great build.

[_SalD_]

My next task was to install the eyebolts for the gun tackle into the bulwarks.  I wanted to make sure that I positioned them correctly so I decided to assemble the gun carriages first.  After assembling the carriages I decided that I might as well complete the assembly by adding the cannons.  I was a little dishearten by the size of the cannons, as I think most of the people working on this kit are, because they just look to big for the ship.  I did a little research, and I do mean little, and I found that the overall length of the 9" Dahlgren gun is 131" (10'-11") and the 4" Naval Parrott rifle is 102" (8'-6").  Tables below.

Using my trusty engineer's scale (please excuse it's rough shape) I scaled the cannons and found that at 1/8" to the foot, they are in fact very close to the actual dimensions.  This made me feel better using these cannons and not having to purchase new ones.

 

Dahlgren gun

Parrott rifle

Cannons cleaned up, and the cannons I received the barrels were not bored out so I drilled the ends of each one.

Completed gun carriages.  It's hard to see but I did add the elevating screw at the rear of each Dahlgren gun.

I also found a nice picture of the Marsilly carriage that I used for reference.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[_SalD_]

Small update.  The aft companion ways and skylights were assembled and installed along with the rudderhead housing and compass pedestal.  The companion ways are a little smaller than the laser etched guidelines in the deck used to position them so the lines do show a bit at the ends.  For future reference to myself, I like the simulated decking but I wish I hadn't showed the butt ends of the planking.  It came out too dark.

The bulwark rails were fitted and glued in place.  I chose to stain the railing.

Ship as of today.  I need a better background

I also would like to thank everyone for all the likes.

 

 

[druxey]

Coming along really nicely, Sal.

[_SalD_]

many thanks for looking in druxey

[_SalD_]

Bowsprit & bowsprit cap:

I shaped and fitted the bowsprit as called for in the instructions along with the bowsprit cap.  The card bands and gammoning strap were added. I chose to paint the bands black instead of white as shown in the instructions.  I like the contrast and how they show up better.

Bobstays:

The two bobstay chains were added.

Bow fairlead:

Things were going along well until I got to this step.  As you can see in the picture below my two attempts at bending this piece ended up in failure.  The two pieces were both soaked AND steamed but they still broke as I tried to bend them around the 1/8" dowel.  I do believe however that the way the pieces are positioned on the wood sheet makes them almost impossible the bend without breaking. The piece is layout so you are bending it along the grain instead of across the grain (if that make sense).  I made my own piece so the bend was across the grain and I had no problem bending it.

Fairlead painted and installed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[druxey]

Well overcome, Sal. See my PM to you.

[_SalD_]

She has her teeth!

After installing the gun ports lids the cannons were added.  I had the same problem as rcmdrvr had in his build that the cannons were too high for the port openings.  I used a suggestion made by Snug Harbor Johnny in rcmdrvr's build to file down the carriage bottoms and the carriage wheels in order to gain some room.  This worked out well and you can hardly notice the flattened wheels with the guns on deck.

I had some 2mm blocks left over from another build so I decided that I would add the out haul rigging.  

Rope coils were made to be added later.

I also decided on this build that I would show the in haul rigging as well.

Aft cannons

 

Forward cannons

All her teeth

 

 

[rcmdrvr]

Your build is really moving along.  Very impressed with the details you are adding.

[_SalD_]

Thanks rcmdrvr, appreciate the comments and all the likes. 

[_SalD_]

Anchors and stocks:

My kit came with two options for the anchor stocks, one wood the other britiannia metal.  I chose to use the wooden stocks.

I used some of the card stock painted black and glued to the wood stock to represent metal strapping.  I also decided to use a smaller size block for the cathead block and tackle than the 7 mm block provided.

I went a little rogue with the placement of the anchors and didn't follow the instructions too closely.  On one side I decided to show the anchor in its raised position lashed to the cap rail.

For this option I needed to add an additional cleat to the inside bulwark in order to secure the lashing to.

On the other side I decided to show the anchor still being raised.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  This is a nifty model and yours looks great.  I suppose anyone who reads the available MSW builds will note the few challenging spots and be advised of remedial steps before going too far on the project.  You are right that the guns look proper now, and sanding a bit of the bottom of the carriages is an effective 'slight of hand' that is virtually invisible on the finished model.  I suppose that someone just starting out might 'lower' the level of the deck a tad by trimming the top of the bulkhead forms that the deck will be mounted on - or the needed allowance could be "split" between trimming the deck forms and building the bulwarks slightly higher (thus raising the gun ports just a tad).

Edited August 24, 2023 by Snug Harbor Johnny

[_SalD_]

First, I would like to thank everyone for all the likes, comments and for following along.

 

Finishing a few odds and ends before starting on the masts. Chain trusses for the sponson support were added.

Aft chains:

Fore chains:

Funnel support guy wires were added. I had some gray thread left over from a model plane I had made that worked out fine.

and the ship's bell. Added a pull cord into the cabin.

Then there were a couple additions that I chose to add. First, to coverup the laser etch guide lines in the deck planking adjacent to the aft companion ways I decided to make a couple of brass monkeys for cannon ball storage.  Cannon balls were made using the ends of straight pins painted black.

Before:

After

Last but not least I added her name to the stern.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 2, 2023 by _SalD_

[_SalD_]

The two masts were temporarily assembled as per the instructions in order to position the fore and main chains and deadeyes.

Trestle and cross trees

Fore chains and deadeyes:

The one deviation from the instructions was the spacing of the fore deadeyes.  Instead of the 5/16" spacing called for I used 9/32".  The 5/16" brought the last deadeye too far into the sponsons on my ship.

Main chains and deadeyes:

The mast hoops were also assembled but instead of using the card stock that came with the kit I used a manilla folder.  The folder was stained to darken it a bit with varnish (hard to see in the photo). I used the manilla folded so I wouldn't need to paint the loops. 

To form the loops I used a 5/16" drill bit for the lower loops and a 3/16" bit for the upper.  

 

 

[rcmdrvr]

Your work continues to demonstrate you are a craftsman.

[_SalD_]

rcmdrvr, many thanks for the kind words, and for all the likes.

[_SalD_]

The jibboom, gaff, boom and striker were all sanded down according to the plans as were all the yards.  Eyebolts and card stock were added where called for.  All the pieces were stained and the mast heads were painted white. 

I also made up two mast coats for the masts by cutting out little wooden donuts and then covering them with cloth from an old handkerchief, painted black to simulate tar.

Blocks were added to the main mast.

The traveler with its block was also added.

The instructions mention that the looks of the blocks can be improved by filing the corners off making them more oval shaped.  Sounds kind of hard for big fingers especially for those 3/32" blocks so I thought I would share how I do it.  I have a small can that is lined with 180 grit sand paper.

Into the can goes a wooden spool that I have attached four pieces of 220 grit sandpaper and a threaded rod.

  The blocks are placed inside the can, the top is put on and I spin it with an electric drill.  You need to play around with it to know how long to go for but don't spin them too long or you'll end up with a pile of sawdust.

 

 

 

 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Super tip, Sal !   I will definitely try this block-sanding jig to make use of some "ordinary" blocks I have lying about.  Of course, once Chuck is re-stocked is fabulous array of CNC made blocks I'll likely order some.  Yet even those might benefit form just a few seconds in the sanding canister - with very fine paper.

[_SalD_]

Thanks Snug Harbor Johnny,  I try to use all the material that comes with the kit, since they do cost a lot, without spending more on after market parts. If I was to scratch build I would definitely use Chuck's products.

[_SalD_]

The jibboom and striker were installed so now I have something to break off.  I think I broke the striker off my Syren three times while I was building it.

I added an additional gammoning strap made of card stock to secure the jibboom.

For the bowsprit rigging I decided to try the super detail mentioned in the instructions to simulate the lanyards at the inner end of the stays and shrouds.  To do this I first siezed an eye loop at the end of the stays and shrouds, stiffened with ca glue.

After attaching the outer ends of the stays and shrouds to the jibboom and cap I connected the inner end to the eyebolts attached to the bow by lacing thread through them and the stiffened eye loop.  (I think it's time to dust my ship)

  Completed bowsprit rigging

Note:  I found it very hard to keep the rigging for the martingale stays under the pin at the bottom of the striker while tying these lines.  Maybe I didn't make the pin long enough.

 

 

[druxey]

A spot of glue will keep the martingale stays in place! Coming along nicely, Sal.

[_SalD_]

Thanks druxey, I did finally use a small drop of ca glue at the pin location after tying the lines to keep them from coming off.

[_SalD_]

Stepping the masts:

Personally I like to glue the masts into their final position so I don't have to worry about plumbing them with the shrouds.  To help align the masts I find that a 45 degree drafting triangle comes in handy.  I use the triangle to help me plumb the mast athwartship.  First I scribe a line in the plastic triangle bisecting the 90 degree angle and perpendicular to the hypotenuse.  Then I measure the overall distance athwartship from the outboard edge of each cap rail where the triangle will be placed.  Dividing that distance in half I mark that distance on either side of the scribed line along the hypotenuse of the triangle.

Then standing the triangle up against the mast and with the two marks at either edge of the cap rail the apex of the bisected 90 degree angle will be centered on the ship and 90 degrees to the deck.  I use white glue to give me time to adjust the mast to it's final position.

Side view.  

Both fore and main masts were done the same way.

The advantage I find with this method is that the ship doesn’t need to be leveled. As long as the ship is built with a reasonable amount of symmetry and the triangle is properly placed across the rails then the apex of the triangle will always be at the center of the ship and 90 degrees to the cap rails (deck).

 

Stepped masts

 

 

[ccoyle]

Is that an old HP 15C? I loved mine -- especially when students would ask to borrow my calculator, then come back a minute later because they had no clue about RPN. 😂 I sold it on eBay a few years later to a Japanese engineer working in Saudi Arabia.