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Posted

Hello,

This is my new side project and the second cardboard model kit. The Shipyard makes the top premium sailing ship cardboard model kits. I have some words for their unfriendly manual, but the quality is better than the wooden model kits I've built. If you don't mind painting wooden patterns on paper planks, this is probably the best kit for building high quality model at a low cost and in a short amount of time.

 

By the way, this year I'm not talking much, unlike the last year, and am focusing on experiencing as much as possible. I found the latest Papegojan build log in 2013, but the pictures were unfortunately gone. This build log will be mostly photos. If you have question about a specific part, feel free to participate in my build log.

 

https://alexey.baldin.space/?p=1

 

If you are looking for a better build log, this site will help.

 

 

pa102.jpg.565f9617ca620f2a80cad2eaa0074677.jpgpa101.jpg.e4d1eefba51faf667f0298e0596c8a10.jpg 

Kit's error 1

 

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Kit's error 2

 

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The manual is hard to decipher...

 

pa107.jpg.a3075223fbc8fc547bb63e4614622c92.jpg

Make sure everything is in line.

 

pa109.jpg.f4ee0d03d1a3784d0efbe070efc6ce3b.jpgpa108.jpg.0f00ea75af10dfc596858176122bb793.jpg

My ship is twisted again. 😭 

 

 

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Tan color base

The kit's paint had dried like a stone.

 

 

 

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Oil paint and an interdental brush.

 

Winsor & Newton Liquin medium helps reduce drying time.

 

pa112.jpg

Yellow Deep 3 : Brown Earth 1

 

pa201.jpg.b1b26e543f4ee9eacd8aab0041c57a35.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

I'm looking forward to watching this come together.

 

As much as I really like these 1/72 scale kits from Shipyard, I don't completely understand why the company would go to such lengths to laser-cut everything and then require it all to be painted. It seems like an effort to simplify things followed by an effort to un-simplify things. 🤔

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, DS Børøysund

Posted

oil10.thumb.jpg.b168b16279b1ef3ba599e945407dd4f7.jpg

(Winsor & Newton Liquin Light Gel is the best to harden oil paint within a day.)

 

I agree with Chris' idea. For young people, painting is difficult to learn and time consuming. Before I painted the wood grain patterns, I had to a lot of research, which took a lot of time and money. This kit is more than 10 years old, so it would be better to launch a new painted-laser-cut edition to attract newcomers. 

 

pa306.jpg.dee1d934b6258e57397860544c98a83e.jpgpa307.jpg.eff636651d6c6162811e78174843d57b.jpgpa308.thumb.jpg.870a16cf81f3c38fd89f7816927be740.jpgpa309.jpg.17e34e510ddf188118435db523eabd7d.jpgpa310.jpg.25bc75099a8d3e2d5cae6ca5cb6e0d26.jpg

I'm ready to go hull planking. It was so much fun thanks to super accurate model, but the instructions were wrong or omitted important parts.

 

 

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Because the other things are nearly perfect, poor instruction is the only notable problem with this kit. The second issue is a painting. ;) 

 

Posted (edited)

Welcome aboard, GrandpaPhil! 

 

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Due to poor instructions and less readable part numbering system, I missed some parts in the previous build log. Fortunately, they are not important parts.

 

I strongly advise new Shipyard kit builders to take pictures of all part sheets and print a parts check list.

 

pa502.jpg.58330e5f52594eeb1cc2fadd13ab66ce.jpgpa503.jpg.84e3128a90685979e6205430dd9b0ed0.jpg

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I missed these parts. 😱

 

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 😱 😱 😱 😱 😱😂😭🤪

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The kit's instructions said that this kit has three planking layers. Actually, it has five planking layers. This picture shows the fourth planking, which is equivalent to the first planking layer of common wooden model kits, so I paid more attention to the fourth layers before I install the last-fifth layers.

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It's not the last process of the first planking... 😴

 

Edited by modeller_masa
Posted

pa616.jpg.b64b049ee8a9c6aac9e2e9bb38acc490.jpgpa617.jpg.b305427ea0fae5301eb2ea19049fc1ae.jpg

I carefully sanded the 1st planks. It is essential to successful hull planking.

 

pa615.thumb.jpg.c33d17a1261b894af6f484314a70e61f.jpg

And then, I found my critical mistake. The 104 part should have been glued before the 105~116-1st planks. Because I glued the 1st planks in the wrong position, further hull planking and related parts were affected by the huge mistake. 😱

 

pa601.thumb.jpg.dbc791a81f3ed4d1b2dd5c3a75e1c30c.jpgpa602.jpg.5428f5cef281892004a9ad88dd29fc97.jpgpa603.thumb.jpg.8444ded2d1731338ea227d2906bde885.jpg

The second planking is done. As you can see, I couldn't use the guide lines on the 1st planking. The second plank was positioned incorrectly, resulting in an uneven wale lines.

 

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I guess the 114 parts are wrong. It is good to sand the bottom of the 114 to make the keel an even thickness.

 

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I added wales in the wrong place.

 

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This is the opposite side.

 

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😭

 

 

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Another wales.

 

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Patching before painting.

 

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It is the end of the second planking.

 

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I glued 139 to start painting.

 

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I'm using oil paints with Winsor & Newton Liquin light gel, so it will take a few days. 

 

Posted

Amazing work,that looks so good   :cheers:

Start so you can Finish !!

Finished:         The Sea of Galilee Boat-Scott Miller-1:20 ,   Amati } Hannah Ship in a Bottle:Santa Maria : LA  Pinta : La Nana : The Mayflower : Viking Ship Drakkar  The King Of the Mississippi  Artesania Latina  1:80 

 

 Current Build: Royal Yacht, Duchess of Kingston-Vanguard Models :)

Posted

I like the wood grain you painted on. No easy task and you have to essentially do the whole hull. 

 

I have the HMS Wolf on the shelf waiting for me. I'm glad there is less wood to simulate on that one. I feel like I won't do a good job of that. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

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I had some serious issues because of the wrong varnishing. Thanks to many members' help, I removed all painting with lacquer thinner and repainted the hull.

 

 

 

 

I made a painting lecture video, but it seems not to be as good as the original video I referred to.

 

 

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I'm attaching deck fittings. The instruction is so limited and confusing that I did several mistakes again.

 

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I think this kit is kind of an odd tetris game. The assembly method is very simple attaching parts in order. However, one small mistake that I missed or attached in the wrong order has caused the errors to snowball. As long as I build and make more mistakes, the error increases and makes the remaining process difficult, like a game over.

 

This is a very accurate and beautiful kit, thanks to modern IT technology, but it is fairly delicate to assemble because all parts are connected each other. Good and detailed instructions are necessary for this kind of structure, but Shipyard didn't provide them. If you don't know how to do it, the minimum guideline is the number of parts "in general".

 

pape802.jpg.2d6e4dc2eb94f7c804d8373a1e8e3425.jpg

I attached part 176 before 158, and it messed up the next processes.

 

pape801.jpg.69940fefa9e351f030233d2663e93194.jpg

pape803.jpg.6ca0bdc1414ebcc2ec1d44755ac719a4.jpgpape804.thumb.jpg.e9e8c08b606f2f659cddcac7c88f1c93.jpg

I missed some parts because the the instructions didn't show all the digits. 

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pape818.jpg.c47238ae87254697ce8a0d2724bd2d1f.jpgpape819.jpg.8a0c54e4d478acb711691e44d2c32eec.jpgpape815.thumb.jpg.0e1e038ec5cbbce28499eb0054415025.jpg

pape817.jpg.2e8bc3a44bd8fa13762190473211dddd.jpg

Well... I cut the tips of the part 99s several days ago... 

pape816.thumb.jpg.4230bded3777a22ed0ba3ff74624ac71.jpg

 

pape806.jpg.5abf7a0f000da465a1319b10aa4aa19a.jpgpape807.jpg.67b68ff6d90f2aa463ce35114cf69f92.jpgpape808.jpg.3d917c3408eff6c6197db00519de1878.jpgpape809.jpg.e1ad5533b2b982d4c59919904264c057.jpgpape810.jpg.d2ee064582b2593b2a9f62eff6cd8113.jpgpape811.jpg.ab3aa87aa6410df84533aa3968556380.jpgpape812.jpg.1f8c2429de77c14a913fdf997b69268b.jpgpape813.jpg.79ae350f65f3420d21d59b0297ad8935.jpgpape814.jpg.3010f6fa98c1172b6a4c0943be7a007c.jpg

I think I finished two-thirds of the deck fittings. I'll wrap up the deck and go to masts and sails in the next post. ;) 

Edited by modeller_masa
Posted

Having the varnish crinkle up like that would have killed me. I would have contemplated giving up, gone to bed, and stared at the wall for a few hours. You overcame the problem and kept going 👍 

 

Another thing is the kit seems to have a lot of errors. How old is this kit? I wonder if my HMS Wolf is like this. I wonder if they fixed these problems because I was looking at making this kit at some point.

Posted

Yes. It was difficult to choose a way. I almost flipped the table over and would have bought the same kit again. Also, the lacquer thinner made the paper surface clump, so the result is a bit worse than before.

 

I'm not sure, but the oldest build log of the same kit here was 2013. I found fewer than ten notable errors, but I avoided the errors by making fixed parts from the edges of paper runners or by putting a lid on. In my opinion, the errors are not a really big issue. The majority of serious issues stem from my mistakes. I still love this kit, but it is good to read the instructions carefully.

Posted

Very intriguing build, curious as to what varnish you used that caused the issue and what you used with success?. My usual go to is Testors dulcote or Tamiya flat clear, also nice tip on using those little floss brushes👍. Your work is fantastic.

 

Michael D.

Posted

Both the varnishes that caused the cringled surface and didn't have any issues were lacquer sprays. The difference is that the first lacquer spray was $1.5 for industrial use from a hardware store and the second spray was $20 Golden MSA Archive lacquer spray for artists from an art supply store, which was compatible with acrylic, oil, alkyd, egg tempera, watercolor, and casein paintings.

 

Lacquer sprays may not be compatible with oil paint because there are many kinds of it. It is good to test before using. Also, the surface before varnishing is very weak, so use an indirect painting method, such as spraying, airbrushing, or pouring.

Posted (edited)

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I didn't finish the deck fittings yet. Instead, I introduce some useful sources.

 

The papegojan was an entry-level Dutch East Indiaman ship. I couldn't find the historical facts of the ship, but the Shipyard kit is very similar to the V.O.C. Batavia. I was able to find many useful videos of Batavia from Youtube.

 

https://witsenscheepsbouw.nl/en/#Witsenscheepsbouw

In addition, Witsen Scheepsbouw (Ship buildings) is a rich repository of Dutch ships. You can download and run the tour program offline, or you can watch the online version after some downloading.

 

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The program introduces full 3D models of two Dutch ships, Pinas and Fluit.

 

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First, you can explore the ships' deck or interior.

 

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The construction stages show how she was built.

 

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I've never seen such a detailed cross section plan. 

 

pi3.thumb.jpg.c54f970884fceabcf09485507d12d44a.jpgpi4.thumb.jpg.f0d3179bc5b0edaddb00132a5ed10e75.jpgpi5.thumb.jpg.97e0f8e4f21bf63c08833ed9822f9851.jpg
The encyclopedia is the most useful section for newcomers, including me.

 

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The encyclopedia shows every part and bundle, and how they were assembled. This is a really fantastic program.

 

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The program sparked my interest in Dutch ships. I ordered @Ab Hoving's book, who studied Dutch ships for 40 years and published the awesome program. If you are interested in his project, check out his most recent post.

 

 

papa282.jpg.709a03b3092945392e9d1fcf5a18a608.jpgpapa283.jpg.da77064df4437f656eef1d90427e4073.jpg

I already solved some mysteries using his magisch program. :) 

Edited by modeller_masa
Posted (edited)

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This kit doesn't offer rigging for cannons, so I researched Dutch cannons and made 2mm double blocks using a laser cutter.

 

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Unfortunately, the 2mm blocks are still bigger than I wanted. I wasn't sure that I would be successful if I spent one more week, so I cancelled my all plans and applied simplified rigging only. 

 

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The 1/96 scale kit had a parrot picture, but the 1/72 scale kit didn't.

 

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I researched images about the parrot, but I couldn't find historical paintings or plans of the Papegojan. 

 

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Therefore, I selected a parrot image, which is related to Sweden. 

 

 https://www.tekniskamuseet.se/en/learn-more/swedish-inventors/lundstrom-brothers-safety-match/

The safety match was invented by the Swedish. The company developed safety matches, including the match case design. The parrot image was one of thousands of box images in the 1920s. 😎

 

 

By the way, I tried to spray industrial lacquer to make matte varnish. When I tested the matte lacquer can before applying it, the surface began to have craquelures! I'll buy Golden MSA matte spray tomorrow. 😆

 

 

 

 

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I forgot to mention important tips. Don't hesitate to fill out the part check list. I found some forgotten parts, such as 270 and 299. Some parts, like 152 and 163, are not on the instructions, so they are hard to find...

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by modeller_masa

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