Fullerton by Al Litchfield - RESTORATION - four-masted barkentine

[Al Litchfield]

History and info found to date:

1. The Fullerton was a  four masted barkentine purchased by Union Oil to ship oil from Los Angeles to the Hawaiian Islands. Still trying to find actual date, etc.  of where her keel was laid and who built her. 

Her maiden voyage was on April 13, 1902 with a load of 16,000 barrels of oil stored in 16 wooden tanks according to a L.A. Herald article of that date which includes a fairly good description of her vitals at that time. Length of 170 ft, beam of 42.5, depth of 21 ft, displacement of 1600 tons.  Her first captain was a Captain McDonald.

There is a record of a court case involving the first officer who was injured while the Fullerton was under tow by a steamer on December 21, 1906 on a trip to Hawaii. The court records show her with a gross tonnage according to the "government register" of 1554 tons and net of 1494.

Another court action took place as the result of a collision while anchored during a fog with a passing ferryboat on December 13, 1909.  Court documents indicate her length at 235 ft. (possibly including bowspirit???). The case was before the courts for about 5 years before settled in the Fullerton's favour by the US Court of Appeals, 9th Circuit.

Union Oil is not mentioned in either of these case documents so not sure if they still owned her at the time.

While I have found some similar looking photographs of a 4 masted barkentine, an actual photo of the Fullerton has eluded me thus far. I have found and requested an archive of several Union Oil documents which are available from UCal so will see what they come up with.

Some other questions:

1. Where can I find some directions on how to make the rope ladders? Going to need a few so would like to make them myself.

2, The main deck is a full piece of brass plate which had deck painted on it which has lifted in patches. Should I try to just patch or completely remove the paint to repaint?

3. Does anyone know who the "government register" mentioned in one of the court cases might refer to and where to possible contact them?

 

 

[Jaager]

4 hours ago, Al Litchfield said:

the rope ladders

Do you mean ratlines?   There are numerous examples, if this is what you mean.

 

4 hours ago, Al Litchfield said:

The main deck is a full piece of brass plate which had deck painted on it which has lifted in patches

That is a bit eccentric as a way to fabricate a deck.  With something that substantial,  my guess is that it was painted off the ship and then fixed to the beam layer.

If some of the paint is coming debonded from the brass,  probably all of it is going to, so patching may be no real solution. 

I wonder if 100 years is a respectable duration for what was probably enamel (oil) paint on metal?  I think that you can find someone here who has experience with this.

Should you make sure that the brass has more tooth before you repaint?

 

Given that this ship served at the beginning of the 20th century:

It was probably a steel hull?

The stays were probably also steel?  If so, then modern synthetic line can be used for your rigging?

 

Edited March 3, 2023 by Jaager

[Roger Pellett]

Al,  Merchant vessels (those that engage in commercial activities) as well as some yachts, must be registered in a home port.  By doing so, they become subject to the laws in effect where they are registered. This can become an arcane and confusing legal matter.  For example, modern cruise ships are often registered in a third world country with lax laws regarding operating requirements.  The 1000 ft bulk carriers that sail the Great Lakes are often  registered in Wilmington, Delaware  even though they are too long to pass through the St Lawrence Seaway Locks to get there.

 

Vessels carrying cargos from one US port to another are required to be registered at a US port.  Assuming that this ship was built on 

the West Coast,  She would likely hav.e been registered at the major West Coast  ports;  the registers for these vessels are now being published on line.

 

By the way,  like any true antique, you can destroy any value that this old model might have by Over Restoring.  The brass deck is an example.  Careful cleaning, saliva on a Q Tip, is probably preferable to painting.  MSW sponsor Seawatch. Books, has just published a book on the subject by Master Ship Model restorer Rob Napier.  Highly Recommended.

 

And last, how about some photos?

 

Roger

Edited March 5, 2023 by Roger Pellett

[druxey]

If you can post a photo of the deck paint issue, we might be able to advise you better.

[Roger Pellett]

I recently reviewed a book on the history of tankers.  It was published in Volume 67, No 4 of the Journal.

 

Petroleum, particularly in its unrefined State was and still is a dangerous cargo requiring special handling.  Crude oil is actually a mixture of several organic compounds.  Some are quite volatile and all of course  are flammable.  Leakage of the more volatile parts of the oil through seams in wooden barrels was a constant fire and explosive hazard.  Heavier fractions could also accumulate in bilges.  Sailing vessels were, therefore, favored for shipping this cargo as the ignition source inherent with a steam plant was not present.

 

Roger

 

 

Edited March 6, 2023 by Roger Pellett

[Al Litchfield]

My apologies for the delay in posting. My wife's health is not the best so was helping here somewhat. Just received some original pictures of the Fullerton from the Union Oil archives. Also here are some pics of the model and one of the deck.

[druxey]

The deck photo: is that something spilled over the decking, or ?

[GrandpaPhil]

Wood grain contact paper like you use for cabinets is great for decking.

 

That is what I use for card models.

 

Just draw the plank edges in with a pen and a straight edge.

[Roger Pellett]

IMHO, you have a very nice antique there.  Barkentine models are unusual.   In his History of American Sailing Ships the Dean of American Maritime History, Howard I. Chapelle devotes several pages to these vessels and points out that they were a West Coast design for Pacific Ocean offshore voyages.  In addition, I have never seen a model before of a sailing tank vessel.

 

Proceed slowly with your restoration, thoroughly documenting things as you go.  Try to reuse as much of the existing model as possible and resist the temptation to improve it beyond the intent of the original builder.

 

The deck?  I suggest gentle cleaning, then leaving it alone.

 

Roger

 

[Tony Hunt]

It's a very nice model, well worth the time and effort for a good restoration. A very interesting and unusual subject, and it looks to have been well made. I agree that care is needed to avoid over-restoration.

 

The deck is most unusual. Is it really paint? It looks like some kind of adhesive film that has a deck printed on the upper surface, that has now cracked and delaminated from the brass underdeck. I agree with Roger that it might be best to do as little as possible other than preserve what is left.

[Roger Pellett]

I suspect that the deck is probably just paper with planking ruled with India ink. Assuming that the model is prewar the builder did not have access to today’s pressure sensitive adhesives.  Depending on the model’s age he would have had access to nitro-celluloid glue (model airplane cement) or varnish.  This has obviously failed.  Any sort of aggressive cleanup will result in more failure.  As things stand now, someone looking at the model will understand what the original builder intended.

 

Roger

[Keith Black]

On 4/9/2023 at 8:25 PM, Roger Pellett said:

The deck?  I suggest gentle cleaning, then leaving it alone.

 I agree with Roger 100%. To remove debris from the deck I'd use an artist soft long bristle brush to gentle "sweep" debris from the edges and from around the mast and deck furniture. Once you have it in piles wet the brush with your mouth (after first washing and drying of course) and gentle lift the debris up off the deck and then flick the brush against your pant leg and repeat process till all the debris has been removed. It's not a race so take your time. "Gently" is the word the of the day. 

 

 I look forward to following your restoration efforts. 

[Al Litchfield]

Thanks, folks. I have dealt with antique laquered paper before but this is not the same. The plank lines are not surface but seem to be just under some kind of coating. It appears almost like an acrylic but that would be too new. Another question I have is the sails. They are not in the best of shape but I would rather try to restore rather than replace if possible.

I am still trying to research where and by who the keel  was laid as well as her fate. It appears that at some point she became a towed barge as one of the court cases records her as being under tow from California to Hawaii. The picture showing all her rigging appears to indicate her sails were removed. Any ideas as to where I might possibly look for any ship's logs, etc.

[KeithAug]

Sympathhetic restorations can be challenging but with a good base model they are very worthwhile. This looks like a very interesting subject. Is it just the deck that is metal or is the hull metal as well? I look forward to seeing how this one turns out.

[druxey]

Keiths cleaning advice is good, but a more hygienic method than using a brush is to moisten a Q-tip with your saliva, then dispose! Repeat....

[Keith Black]

 David, the problem with removing a large amount of debris with a moistened Q-tip is that very little debris will stick to the end of the Q-tip so it's a very slow process. Because of the number of bristles in a brush more dust/debris are loaded into the moistened bristles making it a faster process.

 

 Hygiene be damned, we give our all for the lumps of wooden bits. 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  I don't think anyone's suggested "Dust Off" ... compressed air in a can.  Some have plastic tubes (like WD 40) to direct small shots of air into crevices.   Have a couple cans handy, because as one is used the can gets COLD and the pressure drops ... something to do with thermodynamics.  BTW, outside is best to do this on a mild day - or perhaps in an open garage.

 

  Suggestion #2 would be to use an air brush w/o paint ... just the air.  Or #3 the nozzle from any air compressor.    Getting the 'lion's share' of dust and debris off before using brush or Q-tip may assist in the process.

[Roger Pellett]

I realize that I am repeating myself, BUT!  

 

Before touching this model, I urge you to invest in a copy of “Caring for Ship Models” by Rob Napier and published by Seawatch Books.  You can find them on the list of sponsors at the end of this forum.  Note-  I have no connection with either the author or publisher of this book.

 

At $70 plus shipping this slim volume might seem expensive but you are actually paying for the experience of a master modeler who specializes in Ship model restoration.  Rob has tackled projects for private collectors as well as institutions including The US Naval Academy, The New York Yacht Club, and the Boston Museum of Fine Arts.  On the other hand, I believe that few forum members bring to table much experience restoring a valuable model.

 

People routinely write to the forum about “priceless” ship modes that they have inherited or found at an antique shop.  99% of these are misshapen, mass produced,  decorator models with of little or no intrinsic value.  In my opinion, your model fits into the 1% as it is of an unusual subject, and is nicely built.  It deserves a sensitive restoration.

 

Roger

[Keith Black]

24 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

I don't think anyone's suggested "Dust Off" ... compressed air in a can.  Some have plastic tubes (like WD 40) to direct small shots of air into crevices.   Have a couple cans handy, because as one is used the can gets COLD and the pressure drops ... something to do with thermodynamics.  BTW, outside is best to do this on a mild day - or perhaps in an open garage.

 

  Suggestion #2 would be to use an air brush w/o paint ... just the air.  Or #3 the nozzle from any air compressor.    Getting the 'lion's share' of dust and debris off before using brush or Q-tip may assist in the process.

 In this case I think using compressed air is too aggressive. For a recently built model, great idea but for a model as old as this with ongoing deterioration a more gentle approach is called for, IMHO. 

[KeithAug]

13 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

People routinely write to the forum about “priceless” ship modes that they have inherited or found at an antique shop.  99% of these are misshapen, mass produced,  decorator models with of little or no intrinsic value.  In my opinion, your model fits into the 1% as it is of an unusual subject, and is nicely built.  It deserves a sensitive restoration.

Yep - I agree. Over here we have a programme called "The Repair Shop" where a group of restoration experts demonstrate their skills over a wide range of treasured and sentimental possessions. It is surprising the range of techniques they use. Some are counterintuitive and are learned from many years of experience. Experimentation with a restoration project might get a 90% success rate. The problem is the damage caused by the 10% of failed interventions.

[Roger Pellett]

I have a home made adaptor that fits on my shop vacuum.  It consists of the cap from a paint spray can lined with a plywood disc epoxied in place.  A 1/2in dia. flexible plastic tube fits snugly into a hole drilled through the plastic cap and plywood disc.  The adaptor slips over the nozzle at the end of the regular shop vac hose. Vacuum holds all in place.  The 1/2in tube gets into small places.

 

I would not try cleaning the Model by blasting it with any form of compressed air.  First of all, this just moves the dirt around, and at worst can dislodge parts where glue is losing it’s grip.  Second, it is important to save any loose parts that may be embedded in the dirt.  Gallons of ink have been spilled on the forum about the “carpet monster” that likes to inhale dropped tiny parts.  Blasting with compressed air is just likely to feed the carpet monster.  With my vacuum system it should be possible to fasten a piece of panty hose over the end of the 1/2in tube to catch any loose parts.

 

Roger

[Keith Black]

10 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

I have a home made adaptor that fits on my shop vacuum.  It consists of the cap from a paint spray can lined with a plywood disc epoxied in place.  A 1/2in dia. flexible plastic tube fits snugly into a hole drilled through the plastic cap and plywood disc.  The adaptor slips over the nozzle at the end of the regular shop vac hose. Vacuum holds all in place.  The 1/2in tube gets into small places.

 Roger, wouldn't this tend to completely lift pieces (I'm thinking of the decking) off that are in the process of flaking? 

[KeithAug]

4 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

I have a home made adaptor that fits on my shop vacuum.

 

4 hours ago, Keith Black said:

Roger, wouldn't this tend to completely lift pieces

Roger, Keith,

Aren’t we saying that (despite our collective talents) we aren’t the experts in conservation and that it might be better to get the expert advice? 

I recall one of the common messages of The Repair Shop is try the least aggressive methods first and then only test  them out in small and preferably non critical (hidden) areas.

 

Edited April 16, 2023 by KeithAug

[KeithAug]

24 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

but I played one on TV. 

Yep …….. we could probably all do with a bit of conservation.

[Roger Pellett]

I’m not suggesting that Al cannot or should not restore this model himself.  I am suggesting that he first read a book written by someone who specializes in this area.

[Keith Black]

Clarification and apology.

 

 When i said "but I played one on TV" I was completing the sentence from Keith's post "we aren't experts in conservation" pointing the finger at myself only. I should have posted the full sentence "i'm no expert but I played one on TV." I was trying to pun the "I'm not a doctor but I played one on TV" line but I'm afraid I offended Roger and maybe Keith and Johnny as well. I've since deleted the post for it's stupidity and irrelevance to the subject at hand. To Al, I apologize. 

 

 To any I offended, my most sincere apologies.

[Al Litchfield]

I would love to be in a position to get Napier's book. However, as I live in Canada, by the time I pay exchange on the US$, the trans-border shipping fees, and import duties, price is almost doubled. Just not in my budget as a pensioner. Basically, all my information to go through the restorartion will come through on-line research and "partners in crime" on sites such as this, for which I am most thankful.  Bookstores here in Canada which might be considered catering to special interests are very rare, publishers are even rarer.

Any thoughts on the sails?

As to removing the small deck chips, dust, etc., I am considering a venturi setup to minimize the suction.

Edited April 17, 2023 by Al Litchfield

[Roger Pellett]

Keith,  For reasons that I don’t pretend to understand, my IPad refuses to let me send a PM.  I’ve tried twice today since receiving your’s.

 

Nothing that you said was either stupid or offensive.  On this forum, “everyone gets to put their oar in the water”. Maybe this results in a consensus, maybe not.  It does in any case give the person posing the question a menu of ideas from which to select.  The “correct” solution will vary depending on the questioner’s skills and resources.  

 

I should apologize for missing the point of your beautiful Tennessee build.  Of everyone who has commented here, you are the one with serious experience in rescuing an old model!

 

Roger

[Keith Black]

58 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

Nothing that you said was either stupid or offensive.

Thank God, you don't know how relieved I am. 

[KeithAug]

23 hours ago, Keith Black said:

Clarification and apology.

Funny thing the english language. Very few writers choose all the right words and and punctuation all of the time. I tend to miss out words and punctuation and when I do get it right spell check usually replaces the key word with something else. It was much simpler when I used a dipping pen and ink. 

 

23 hours ago, Al Litchfield said:

I would love to be in a position to get Napier's book. However, as I live in Canada, by the time I pay exchange on the US$, the trans-border shipping fees, and import duties, price is almost doubled.

Al - yes that would put me off. 

Edited April 18, 2023 by KeithAug