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Posted

In order to convey this section of the build, just like the instructions, I’m not going to provide good pictures or descriptions lol.

 

Nah just kidding, I have some good ones to post in the morning.  

Posted

The instructions in this area of the build feel like they were written well after the model completed and they forgot to take some good pictures. I'm clearly not ready for a scratch build. 

 

Alignment of all the boat bottom parts is a challenge for sure. Not knowing exactly where they are supposed to be left and right. The curve of the boat creates a challenge to get the straight up and down. I prepped the thwarts and seats to make some kind of guide to show how high and what angle to trim the thwart mounts. There are no instructions or good pictures to show how this is done. I did finally realize the first few pages had a blurry side view. I wish a larger 3 view came with the kit. 

 

Below are the pictures of progress. So many parts rely on other parts placement. I tried to think it thru to get everything close. It should look ok when finished. The thwart angles are off, they don't have as much tilt as the side drawing, I may still be able to trim to mounts to make it finish better. 

 

The stern seat is next. Well not next, but its mounts are next and the ONLY way to know exactly where to place them is to make the stern seat. Now to figure out what a 'cleat' is for the bottom of the seat, the instructions don't say what size how long where to place. The side drawing has the front to rear length, I think I can wing it from there. The flat 1/8 stock should work or similar. 

 

 

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Posted
46 minutes ago, MajorChaos said:

The instructions in this area of the build feel like they were written well after the model completed and they forgot to take some good pictures. I'm clearly not ready for a scratch build. 

 

Alignment of all the boat bottom parts is a challenge for sure. Not knowing exactly where they are supposed to be left and right. The curve of the boat creates a challenge to get the straight up and down. I prepped the thwarts and seats to make some kind of guide to show how high and what angle to trim the thwart mounts. There are no instructions or good pictures to show how this is done. I did finally realize the first few pages had a blurry side view. I wish a larger 3 view came with the kit. 

 

Below are the pictures of progress. So many parts rely on other parts placement. I tried to think it thru to get everything close. It should look ok when finished. The thwart angles are off, they don't have as much tilt as the side drawing, I may still be able to trim to mounts to make it finish better. 

 

The stern seat is next. Well not next, but its mounts are next and the ONLY way to know exactly where to place them is to make the stern seat. Now to figure out what a 'cleat' is for the bottom of the seat, the instructions don't say what size how long where to place. The side drawing has the front to rear length, I think I can wing it from there. The flat 1/8 stock should work or similar. 

 

 

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835D45F9-B8B8-4CDE-9AA2-F90E503FB667_1_105_c.jpeg.90b814e67aa353921d0d764976f66278.jpeg

 

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Good morning Major, I had the same questions as you did and handled it in the same manner. I’m starting to realize the kit designers just kinda tell you what’s next and about where it goes. That leaves us to research other sources or think it through to get the results. I have no knowledge of ships or sailing, so that makes the challenge for me even greater. The enjoyment I’m getting from learning to build these models is definitely worth the extra effort. MSW has had  a lot to do with my understanding .

Current builds: 

Le Martegaou- 1:80 - Billing Boats


Back on the shelf: 

Gretel - Mamoli

Nonsuch 30 - 1:24 - Model Shipway

 

Completed builds:

Mini Oseberg no 302 -Billing Boats

Sea of Galilee boat

Lowell Grand Banks dory,         Norwegian sailing pram

Muscongus bay lobster smack

Peterboro Canoe- Midwest

Captain John Smith’s shallop - Pavel Nikitin

Chesapeake double kayak

Posted

I think the ability to overcome the slight differences from one build to the next necessitate the instructions being a bit vague in places because too much detail may lead to off proportions. The one line I really took to heart was "if it looks right then it is right." That's been my biggest lesson with the kit. 

Fantastic looking build and I'm eagerly following you post new updates.

Posted (edited)

@MajorChaos you've given me a good heads-up here. I am working through the steps you've just completed, and have wondered how to ensure that everything is sitting properly. I like the idea of prepping the thwarts (or copies of them) and using them as guides. I had considered putting some blue tape or paper or something where I think the thwarts should sit, and then using that as a guide for shaping and gluing. 

 

It looks from many pictures I can find that if you put a straightedge from fore to aft on top of the thwarts, they will all line up. If that's the case (and I'm not positive), starting with one and then working aft might be a good approach. Do the A/B thwart first, then the C/D thwart, using the A/B thwart as the guide.

Edited by DonBMichigan

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

In progress: Norwegian Sailing Pram by Model Shipways

Completed: Lowell Grand Banks Dory by Model Shipways

Posted
4 hours ago, DonBMichigan said:

@MajorChaos you've given me a good heads-up here. I am working through the steps you've just completed, and have wondered how to ensure that everything is sitting properly. I like the idea of prepping the thwarts (or copies of them) and using them as guides. I had considered putting some blue tape or paper or something where I think the thwarts should sit, and then using that as a guide for shaping and gluing. 

 

It looks from many pictures I can find that if you put a straightedge from fore to aft on top of the thwarts, they will all line up. If that's the case (and I'm not positive), starting with one and then working aft might be a good approach. Do the A/B thwart first, then the C/D thwart, using the A/B thwart as the guide.

 

 

The 1/8 stock you see floating around in the picture was used for the spacing for the thwart mounts. Thats closer then the tick strips but close enough to work out. 

 

Reading your tape idea, if you could get something flexible held in place to make the height hold and clamp it in place, that might work as long as you could work under it. The thwart seats follow the flow of the top of the boat, I made mine 'level' in a way. I can still sand them down and make them angle. I had a bendy drafting aide tool that was 3/8 square that would work, not that I could find it after 3 moves. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Westcott-24-Inch-Flexible-Curve-TC-382/dp/B001E209MM 

Something like this.

 

Once you get started mounting A and B then C and D, you'll see more. Its deceptively simple and must be located in all 3 axis with no help to locate them. If the bottom supports are not mounted correctly they can't be used as a guide to help. A, B, C, D all build on errors already made. I'm trying to get E located well enough. 

Posted

I trimmed the bow transom some. Looking at some real Pram pictures the bow transom can be narrowed some.

 

E parts have a groove at the bottom plank boards. It was decided to place the groove at the gap and trim the top seat as needed. After careful and repeated fitting and planning they are rotated out of square fore and aft. 
 

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Posted (edited)

No clue how tall to make the transom. I’ll make the front and rear match. The line by the instructions should be 1/8 in higher. But the notch in the transom matches the pictures. 
For many of these and following steps, they seem out of order, without proper detail. 

 

I’m around step 20, I’ve read ahead. Step 26, no pictures. Should be done before around 22-23, at least before the top has stuff added to it. 
 

The floor cleats are drying and I’m trying to hold the hull shape. Look like the forum is flipping my picture upside down. It’s still a better shot of this step than the given instructions. Lol. 


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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted (edited)

I now consider the instructions a suggestion of what to do. For a beginners model series this is almost a joke. The steps 19-26 were clearly written after completion. They had a full set of real plans they referred to during building of this model. 

Rowlock pads, 9” long with 3” segments. Wait what? I know what they mean, but still. 
 

The stern transom notch is 5/16 and NOT 3/8, if you use a 3/8 file it will be way to big. Unless they meant the tapered end of a 3/8 file and that won’t make a nice notch. 

 

My dagger board sample makes a nice handle lol. 
 

I will finish this model because I should, I’m so ready to start the next one. The Muscongus Bay lobster smack. I really like that construction type, and I’m super excited to start it because most of its other ships I have waiting are that type of hull. 
 

I might throw the Pram out of the pram. Lol

 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted
40 minutes ago, MajorChaos said:

I now consider the instructions a suggestion of what to do. For a beginners model series this I almost a joke.

 

If you were to couch your frustrations in the form of a question, the designer of this kit might be able to assist you past the tricky parts. He has, in fact, been following along on your build. 😉

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, DS Børøysund

Posted
On 3/30/2023 at 4:52 PM, MajorChaos said:

I had a bendy drafting aide tool that was 3/8 square that would work, not that I could find it after 3 moves. 

This is why I like reading these build logs.  I had forgotten I had one one of these flexible curves.  I looked around and can't find it.  So, it may be lost.  I can see this as a useful tool for simple curves like on a small boat.   Thanks for suggesting this.   

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Robert Chenoweth

 

Current Build: Maine Peapod; Midwest Models; 1/14 scale.

 

In the research department:

Nothing at this time.

 

Completed models (Links to galleries): 

Monitor and Merrimack; Metal Earth; 1:370 and 1:390 respectively.  (Link to Build Log.)

Shrimp Boat; Lindbergh; 1/60 scale (as commission for my brother - a tribute to a friend of his)

North Carolina Shad Boat; half hull lift; scratch built.  Scale: (I forgot).  Done at a class at the NC Maritime Museum.

Dinghy; Midwest Models; 1/12 scale

(Does LEGO Ship in a Bottle count?)

 

Posted
1 hour ago, ccoyle said:

 

If you were to couch your frustrations in the form of a question, the designer of this kit might be able to assist you past the tricky parts. He has, in fact, been following along on your build. 😉


Very cool. So far my frustrations have not reached a question or a road block to pass. I did step 26 in front of 25, so I could clean up the top before adding the rowlock pads. The rub walls and inwales clean up nice when they can be sanded without interference.

 

The rear transom trim mark is in the wrong place on my model. See picture. But the inwale plank placement seems correct. Both sides fit almost perfect to the line. Detail of the transom tops is missing. I think what I’ve done is the intention. A bit more sanding and rounding and both transoms will look good. 
 

I’m happy with what it looks like so far. I have many things out of alignment for thwart supports, obviously knowing what I know now I could have done better. It’s part of the learning for sure.  
 

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Posted

This is the end of step 22. With 26 completed, rub rails installed. I may be the only one to see my errors, but they are there. 

Thwarts and stern sheets were worked some to get the frames set as best as I could. 
 

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Posted (edited)

Step 25 rowlock pads. Easy to make. 
 

Step 23 chain plate slots. I used a #12 blade, 2 drilled holes and the recommended folded sand paper worded great. 

 

Mounting the rowlock pads was easy. 1.5 inches aft of each forward thwart frame. It was squared up enough they are almost exactly where intended. 
 

The dagger board was prepped. The rudder was prepped. 
 

Stern sheets with two cleats. This was my take on the cleats. They fit. They could be closer to center to hold load better on a real seat. I used a business card to make the gap. 
 

The midship thwart knees fit just a bit snug without trimming, the careful planning for height of the thwart worked out.

 

I am 4 movies farther along. I think this is 10 movies of work, I didn’t keep track of the hours, it’s for fun and I’m not trying to set a record, I just want to finish it. I have a problem finishing projects lol. 
 

Completed to step 32. Trying to decide what color. I’m not a fan of the dark inside as shown. 
Current selection on the chopping block. 
MS 4821 Deck Light for the inside

MS 4832 Warm white for the outside. 

 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted

Step 33, paint. Primer coat. Sanded, another primer coat. The a coat of Warm White MS4832 for the outside. 
 

I made the tiller while I was waiting for coats to dry. 
 

I used MS 4972 Clear Satin on the thwarts and sheets. I’ll circle back to the 12 + floor board prep. 
 

I’m studying the mast fabrication. The dowel is way to big and the glued together parts are way to small. 
 

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Posted

The included 1/4 dowel is way to big. 
The fabricated mast parts are to small one direction and will not make a 3/16 diameter mast. 
 

A Sunday trip to the hardware store for a 3/16 dowel. It’s not the best piece of wood, but it will do. 
 

I cannot find where it says to mount the mast. It has a short taper end and a long taper end. I know it goes short end taper into the boat, but I have yet to find the instruction to actually mount the mast. Page number ot step number of someone that’s is building this Pram or has built this Pram. 
 

A second coat of warm white for the bottom. It’s looking good on the outside. 
 

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Posted (edited)

Inside I’ve decided MS 4821 Deck Light House Buff. I looked at other colors, this looks good. It looks yellow in the picture but it’s not yellow. The first coat in the primer doesn’t look to good. The first coat of warm white didn’t the second looks great. 
 

The best thing I’ve learned from this build is painting inside to outside on rubbing strake. I’m not a great painter, with learning tricks like that I might get better. 
 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted

Hi MajorChaos,

 

Looking great so far. For the mast, you’ll find instructions on adding it on page 36, step 54. 
 

I’ve been jumping all over the book, doing whichever step takes my fancy so havn’t actually added it yet. I’m eager to see how you tackle that part. 

Posted

@WizardOfOs Thank you.

 

I’m jumping around too while I paint step 33. 
I’m working on step 34 Floor Boards still, sanding and such. I completed step 34 Installing Thwarts and strern sheets not a typo lol. 

Thanks for step 54. I read most of it trying to find it. I fitted it already so I don’t damage my painting. 

 

Posted (edited)

Second inside coat of paint and it’s dry. Trial fitting the thwarts and stern sheets. Painted with MS 4972 Clear Satin

 

Gaff and boom sanding to shape. Learned to sand the oars this way by drawing them on a piece of 150 and 220. Easy to keep control, make them round. Then finished off with a curved small piece of 220 to take off the edges. They look pretty good. Not very strong but look like they should I think. 
 

The brass nails in the kit are the size of pencils I ordered some smaller nails to make that part easier. Micro Mark has tiny brass nails and way to much other stuff. Nails cost me almost $200. My wife can’t see this thread, I hope lol. 

 

 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted

I may have over compensated with the nail size. It went to far the smaller direction. BUT. They work perfect for some details. I will have may small brass nail sizes shortly, I’m sure they will be used other places. 😀
 

The slots are 3” scale, not the intended 2” scale, oops. The down haul will just have to wiggle some. Shhh no one will know…. Can make a small hole bigger but can’t make a big hole smaller. 
 

I bought the full Pram drawings and instructions to build the real boat for $30. It was well worth it to see how to do a few things better. I’ll make an edit to my first post about this. 
 

I can complete the mast, gaff, and boom correctly now. The provided instructions give no way to do so with any accuracy. Looking at the completed Pram list, only one of the started kits is finished, I think that’s telling. The Dory has a high complete % as does the Muscongus Bay lobster smack. 

 

IMG_7192.thumb.jpeg.2e53e579a402dfe37aff69532a374904.jpegIMG_7196.thumb.jpeg.d03dc7bab951558bddd006f27eb8d726.jpegIMG_7194.thumb.jpeg.af4feb874a3024df46e30b9ba50a97d8.jpegIMG_7193.thumb.jpeg.6f1a84c0069e269708ab3475133d171d.jpegIMG_7197.thumb.jpeg.efa4d27cf09b88d6b0376dbeef94847f.jpegIMG_7195.thumb.jpeg.2fb0bb23d5e8052f66e39be16cd1ca8f.jpeg

 

Posted (edited)

Step 43 the mast fittings are completed. The real plans and the given instructions I think it’s close to what was intended. I want to find some copper sheet for the chafing pad. 
 

Step 38 and 39 the rudder gudgeons and pintles are done. I annealed the brass with a small torch. It almost gets to soft, that’s neat to see. From snap hard to pliable. 
 

The little nails from Micro Mark work perfect to attach the gudgeons. A small starter hole and it fits very snug. It’s a challenge with super glue to get the parts straight. They have NO working time. Stick, stuck, not moving for placement if I missed. I got used to the wood glue with 5-15 seconds of working time. 
 

Oars, I don’t like making oars. They are next. 

 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted

Great Job Major!  That stern looks outstanding.
 

Current builds: 

Le Martegaou- 1:80 - Billing Boats


Back on the shelf: 

Gretel - Mamoli

Nonsuch 30 - 1:24 - Model Shipway

 

Completed builds:

Mini Oseberg no 302 -Billing Boats

Sea of Galilee boat

Lowell Grand Banks dory,         Norwegian sailing pram

Muscongus bay lobster smack

Peterboro Canoe- Midwest

Captain John Smith’s shallop - Pavel Nikitin

Chesapeake double kayak

Posted
1 hour ago, druxey said:

Next time try 5 minute epoxy instead of CA?


I used thick CA, I thought it would give me working time. The epoxy is a great idea, I didn’t even think of it. I should have soldered them, I don’t have a solder station at the house. 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Bryan Woods said:

Great Job Major!  That stern looks outstanding.
 


Thank you!

 

I saw a bunch of un raveled ends on someone’s build, I was wondering if I could prevent that. Your Pram is looking great! They look like you could blow on them and they unravel.

 

So I came up with this idea. A glue bath. Then stretched them out to dry. The Dory build gave me the idea, but my Dory knots are a hot mess. 

 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted (edited)

Wax paper for the sails and glue was a bad idea. I don’t have a cutting mat. It sounded like a good idea but the wax paper winkles badly when the glue gets it wet. It was dry enough to put on the metal build plates. 
 

This is my first time making a sail. And rigging. 
 

The glue stiffened lines are working good so far. 
 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted

I had many extra super tiny nails, so using the real plans I put some details in. Some of the places nails/rivets could go, can’t be reached now. I left the floor, seats, rudder, and dagger board natural wood, with a satin coat. I like a real wood look. I like to see the grain in great pieces. 
 

I lost track but I think this has taken 14-16 movies so far lol. 
 

Waiting for the sails to dry so I can continue. 
 

 

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