Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht

[Rick310]

Glad you’re back Keith, was starting to get a little worried!

Cangarda looks magnificent!

Rick

[Jim Lad]

That just looks so special, Keith!

 

John

[Keith Black]

Gorgeous hull, Keith. As close to perfection as can be found in this world. 

[druxey]

Just catching up. Lovely photo of your doll's house in action! That is now a family heirloom. Great result on the hull, though I can't imagine trying my patience with varnish setting at 5 degrees!

[Veszett Roka]

From beautiful to totally beautiful. Just 14 layers away.

So stunning Capt.

[Rick310]

Keith, what was the thickness of the brass you used for the trail boards?

Rick

[Ian_Grant]

Beautiful, beautiful work Keith. Fourteen coats does seem a little compulsive 😉. I mopped on seven coats of finish when I sanded and refinished my floors which I think gave a much better sheen than the three coats a pro put on my friend's floor. Modern water-based finishes definitely take more coats to "build" than the old stinky stuff.

[KeithAug]

Thank you Pat, Rick, John, Keith, Druxey, Veszett and Ian - and of course the rest of you have liked my work.

 

On 2/10/2025 at 3:17 PM, Ian_Grant said:

Modern water-based finishes definitely take more coats to "build" than the old stinky stuff.

Yes Ian - I still use the old stinky stuff but still managed 14 coats - however see below!😬

 

On 2/10/2025 at 1:33 PM, Rick310 said:

what was the thickness of the brass you used for the trail boards?

Rick - very thin to ease cutting - about 0.010"

 

I set about making the anodes of which Canada has 14.

 

I wanted to give them a bit of shape so I decided to try pressing them. I started by making a press tool from mild steel. This was partially milled and finished by hand filing.

 

I used the machine vice as a press.

With a bit of cleaning up the first one turned out acceptable.

The pressed metal was quite soft - it is actually an old decoration that used to be a Christmas decoration. I think it might actually be a zinc alloy which seems quite appropriate.

Here are all 14.

All were drilled with 2 holes to take the mounting bolts. The slotted piece of wood is a crude locating jig to make drilling quicker.

The keel was drilled through to take the anodes (symmetrical on either side)

Then glued and screwed in place.

The anodes are spaced equidistant along the keel - so again I made a simple jig  to assist drilling of the holes.

I then used my previously made jig to drill the stabiliser holes. I always put off drilling holes in the hull - I think it is fear. You can see the jig has been modified to give better angular control of the drill. The Jig was taped securely to the hull and the holes were drilled with my heavy duty hand drill.

All was well.

Fortunately no damage to the paintwork ---------- but then ! succumbed and 2 more coats of Poly went on. Compulsive or what!!!!!!

Ant then another go with the super fine wire wool.

Somehow the final 2 coats seemed to help. The sheen was quite subdued and the finish was reasonably uniform which pleased me.

 

The next job is making the stabilisers and thereafter masking up for the spray paint job. 

 

That's all for now so back to catching up with all your builds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dr PR]

Keith,

 

Are you trying to get into Guinness World Records for applying the most coats of finish to a model ship hull?

[Keith Black]

 Phil, I think he owns stock in the company. 

 

 Keith, those anodes turned out very real in appearance. I always enjoy watching how you make the little bits. 

[vossiewulf]

20 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

I always enjoy watching how you make the little bits. 

Agree with Keith, very nice little bits creatively made.

[Jim Lad]

Someone confiscate his tin of poly! 😀

 

Seriously, those anodes are a delightful detail.

 

John

[Keith Black]

5 minutes ago, Jim Lad said:

Someone confiscate his tin of poly! 😀

 Mrs Keith probably wouldn't appreciate us doing that.  

[KeithAug]

3 hours ago, Dr PR said:

Guinness World Records for applying the most coats of finish

 

54 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

I think he owns stock in the company. 

 

32 minutes ago, Jim Lad said:

Someone confiscate his tin of poly!

 

25 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

Mrs Keith probably wouldn't appreciate us doing that

Shock horror - the tin is nearly empty. I spent happy hour on the web a few days ago looking for a replacement. The question is 75ml, 1000ml  or 2500ml. What do you recommend noting the trend to phase out oil based paints?

 

Thank you Vossiewulf.

[Keith Black]

34 minutes ago, KeithAug said:

What do you recommend noting the trend to phase out oil based paints?

That kinda depends, Keith. How much mahogany dinning room furniture you got left? 

[Veszett Roka]

Keith,

 

I feel a disturbance in the force. You covered the beautiful mahogany hull with 16 layer of warnish, which i found a happy move - i think the paint/warnish competition won by the wooden look. But, if the hull is depicted as wood, why are you need to depict the anodes as well? I know they are attached on the original Cangarda, but a bit odd on a wooden hull, aren't they?

[KeithAug]

47 minutes ago, Veszett Roka said:

But, if the hull is depicted as wood,

Veszett, they are anti shipworm anodes.

[Veszett Roka]

A bit more seriously: what are you planning below the waterline? Any antifouling, perhaps white or green like the original? Keep the hull unpainted? Also, some marking on the hull, like Plimsoll mark etc.?

[Dr PR]

I am working on a wooden minesweeper model - wooden hull, wooden superstructure, etc. However, it did have non-wooden engines, pumps, plumbing, propeller, rudder, etc. And these metals could have galvanic reactions with salt water. For that reason, there were zinc anodes on the hull around the main water intakes and near the propeller and rudder.

[Keith Black]

 

https://forums.ybw.com/threads/beware-anode-advice.543843/

 

https://waitematawoodys.com/2015/05/15/electrochemical-damage-to-wood-the-marine-version-of-leaky-homes/

 

https://waitematawoodys.com/?s=electrochemical&submit=Searc

 

 

Yes, zinc anodes are generally considered bad for wooden boats because they can cause significant damage to the wood due to overprotection, creating a caustic environment around the anode that can rot the wood fibers, especially when connected to metal fittings on the boat; most experts recommend avoiding zinc anodes on wooden hulls and opting for alternative options like aluminum anodes if necessary. 

 

Key points about zinc anodes and wooden boats:

• Electrolysis damage:

  When a zinc anode is attached to a wooden boat with metal fittings, the electrical current generated can cause the wood around the metal parts to deteriorate due to the chemical reaction with the saltwater. 

   
• Overprotection:

  Zinc anodes tend to produce a higher voltage than needed for wooden boats, leading to excessive corrosion protection that can damage the wood. 

   
• Caustic environment:

  The reaction between zinc and saltwater creates a caustic environment around the anode, which can rapidly degrade wood fibers. 

   

 

Alternatives for wooden boats:

• Aluminum anodes:

  Some boat owners choose aluminum anodes as they can provide adequate protection without causing the same level of damage to wood. 

   
• Careful selection and placement:

  If you do use any anode on a wooden boat, carefully select the right type and position it to minimize contact with the wood and potential damage. 

[Dr PR]

Keith B,

 

Interesting! The blueprints for the MSI specify zinc protectors, but they were mounted to the wood with phosphor bronze or galvanized brass straps. No mounting hardware through the zincs. And the zincs were to be embedded in zinc oxide paste and caulked all around to keep out sea water.

 

So it looks like they were trying to minimize contact between the zinc and wood. I guess the zincs were the "least of two weevils" when it came to deterioration of parts of the ship.

Edited Friday at 10:11 PM by Dr PR

[Keith Black]

 Phil, from what I read it seems that zinc anodes being frowned upon for wood hulls is recent.  Someone wrote that the zinc anodes should be removed and the wood soaked in vinegar or if too badly damaged, replaced. I'm new to this topic so all I've got to go on is Mr Google. Up till a couple of hours ago I didn't even know how to spell zinc. 

[KeithAug]

23 hours ago, Veszett Roka said:

what are you planning below the waterline?

Veszett - Natural wood. Although above the waterline is a little more uncertain at the moment.

 

Phil / Keith - your passion for detail is a constant source of wonderment.

[Veszett Roka]

On 2/15/2025 at 10:14 AM, KeithAug said:

Natural wood. Although above the waterline is a little more uncertain at the moment.

If my vote counts, i'd go for full unpainted wooden hull. That mahogany is far too beauty to cover - for me.

[yvesvidal]

I think it needs an extra coat of clear....

 

Yves

[KeithAug]

On 2/16/2025 at 1:45 PM, Veszett Roka said:

If my vote counts, i'd go for full unpainted wooden hull.

All votes will be counted Veszett.

 

On 2/16/2025 at 4:04 PM, yvesvidal said:

I think it needs an extra coat of clear

I think you may be on to something there Yves.

 

Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.

 

I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).

 

Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.

Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 

I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.

 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

If your model depicts per the rebuild, you really have no other choice but to include the stabilisers.

 

John

[KeithAug]

17 hours ago, Jim Lad said:

you really have no other choice but to include the stabilisers.

Yes John - I know the logic. Am I the only one that thinks they look incongruous on a 1901 shaped hull?

Edited 1 hour ago by KeithAug