HM Cutter Speedy 1828 by oakheart - from plans drawn by Bill Shoulders in 1972

[oakheart]

1 hour ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

I think the latter is more likely

 

That would make it both stronger and easier for them to build.

 

I just looked up that model on NMM and there are some photos there as well

https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66309

 

Tim

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

1 hour ago, oakheart said:

That would make it both stronger and easier for them to build.

Yes, but it still must be removable.

 

I'm still thinking a flat hinged lid but with the hinge line offset 2 or three inches to port and a drip rail (1" x 1") around the underside of the lid (not drawn yet).

 

Still need the lid, panels on the other side, glass on the forward and aft sides, 3" timbers in all four corners (replacing those 1x3 bits at the doors).

 

Like this:

 

Edited February 10 by iMustBeCrazy

[oakheart]

1 hour ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

 

I'm still thinking a flat hinged lid

Wow 😵 I go away to the workshop to work on my DIY sander and when I come back you have drawn it all up. thanks Craig @iMustBeCrazy

 

So do we think the lid would be made of planks with visible joints as I did on my V1, or would it be more refined with the planks closely joined and not really visible ?

 

Tim

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

8 minutes ago, oakheart said:

So do we think the lid would be made of planks with visible joints as I did on my V1, or would it be more refined with the planks closely joined and not really visible ?

My best guess? I think the aim would be watertight or near to it, this is officer country. You don't want the Captain breaking his leg slipping on a wet ladder.

The roof might even be just two very wide boards. As I said, a gutter under the join at the hinge. Probably a half lap where the door meet, the lid covers the top of the doors.

 

But still guesses.

[oakheart]

1 hour ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

wide boards

Yes, as far as I can see the models we have seen so far show something like that.

 

Now I need to cut and mill some wood to the right sizes.

At 1:48 I will need some 0.5mm ( 1" ) and 1.6mm ( 3" which I have some left )

 

I have just tested the new thickness sander and it works ( woohoo ) I only have a simple rubber band driving it for the test and it slips, just ordered the correct size of GT2 toothed belt, should be here next week. That will give me time to finish the rest of the mechanics of the sander.

 

Tim

 

Edited February 10 by oakheart

[oakheart]

Next question has to be, what about the hinges, lot of kits show rather crude blacksmith made style. Which I copied in my V1.
Looking at the models we have been discussing, they all look much more sophisticated more like cabinet hinges of the time, which I guess would be brass or bronze.

 

druxey @druxey said " In the 18th century 'T' style hinges were most often used."

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/2919-door-hinges/

 

but we are 20 plus years on from that.

Tim

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

7 hours ago, oakheart said:

Next question has to be, what about the hinges

A quick google would suggest that by the early 19th century you could get almost any hinge you could imagine.

 

I think something like this in black or brass:

[oakheart]

1 hour ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

I think something like this

I know I just did that as well the range of hinge styles was incredible, as you say, just pick one that suits.

Yours does look as if it would serve the purpose.

 

Tim

 

 

Edited February 10 by oakheart

[Gregory]

Since you are exploring ideas..

 

I did a little mix and match on my companion for Resolution.  I make my hinges out of black paper.

Edited February 11 by Gregory

[oakheart]

5 hours ago, Gregory said:

a little mix and match

Thanks gregory @Gregory that looks really good what wood is that?

Great detail, I like the ring handles they must have been fiddly to make.

Is that at 1:64?

 

Tim

[Gregory]

The wood is cherry..  

There are a lot of good ring ideas in the forum.

 

I've been trying to learn something from Chuck Passaro.   He designed and made Cheerful, Winchelsea and other models.

Here is some of the latest info on ring and eyebolt making that he posted.

 

 

[oakheart]

On 2/11/2024 at 4:40 PM, Gregory said:

I've been trying to learn something from Chuck Passaro

Aren't we all. 🙂

 

I will go and take a look at that post, thank Gregory @Gregory

 

Tim

[oakheart]

Not much has happened on the cutter over the last few days.

I spent the time building a thickness sander out of the drum from a 3" hand planer on which the motor had burned out, I happened to have a motor from an old belt sander, some Ali. plate some bearings and a lot of inspiration from Jim Byrnes.

All I had to purchase was a GT2 belt. Everything else was scattered around the workshop, I get called a hoarder, but hey they did come in useful.

 

It works, so now I need to add a dust collection hood and a belt guard and off I go.

 

Tim

 

 

[Wintergreen]

That's excellent Tim!

What RPM do you get? I found out that higher RPM gives smother work. I have a similar contraption on my wood lathe, probably around the 3000rpm mark with a drum that is about 4" in diameter.

[oakheart]

1 hour ago, Wintergreen said:

What RPM do you get?

The motor I have used is 2,000 rpm the pulleys are the same size so that gives 2k at the drum, which is 50mm ( 2~) dia.

I have 120 grit paper on the drum  and it's pretty smooth, could hand sand with a finer grit to get it better.

I very pleased with the mini machine, making it was almost as enjoyable as ship building.

 

I have added all the safety features.

 

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

1 hour ago, oakheart said:

I very pleased with the mini machine

You should be, and I'm sure you will find it indispensable.

 

Meanwhile there's this Vigilant drawing which shows that the companionway may well have sat on the coaming.

 

But after playing around and cutting some wood I've nearly decided the companionway was actually a solid block of wood with the doors (badly) painted on

 

[oakheart]

53 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

the companionway may well have sat on the coaming.

This gets even more intriguing , glad I haven't started cutting anymore wood
I still don't understand having the stairs at right angles to the doors, the access is difficult enough anyway.

 

56 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

a solid block of wood

I hope you have written this all up on your Lapwing build log!

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

36 minutes ago, oakheart said:

I still don't understand having the stairs at right angles to the doors, the access is difficult enough anyway.

The hull is quite narrow there, most efficient use of space?

 

41 minutes ago, oakheart said:

I hope you have written this all up on your Lapwing build log!

Give me an hour.

[iMustBeCrazy]

I've finished mine for now, had a couple of issues related to using thicker wood than I had drawn, I should have updated the drawing then I would have picked up the issues.

 

 

[oakheart]

7 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

I've finished mine for now

That is very neat. Something for me to aim for.

For those who have not seen Craig's @iMustBeCrazy Lapwing build log get over there and take a look

Tim

[oakheart]

Question for Craig @iMustBeCrazy ( or anyone ) how do you get the half lap joints so neat?

I have really been struggling with this tiny wood working. I need to learn some new tricks.

 

Old seaDog Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

7 hours ago, oakheart said:

Question for Craig

Tim, I use a cutting guide (one sided mitre box) and a razor saw for the cross cut then mostly a chisel blade and a file to remove and clean up the rest.

Instead of the chisel blade you could also use the razor saw lying on a spacer.

I really should remake the cutting guide with the guide piece twice as deep and twice as high (it's currently 12mm deep and 6mm high).

 

[oakheart]

2 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

I really should remake the cutting guide

Thanks  for that Craig @iMustBeCrazy. I have a really old and worn ali. mitre box which is no longer accurate.

I have just purchased a new razor saw to replace the very old and now blunt saw that came with the mitre box.

Looks like I need to make a cutting guide like you have. The new saw is pull saw which I like a lot better than the old push one, so I guess the cutting guide will need to be the other way round, in fact thinking about it, it should work either way round.

 

The one downside of the pull saw will be that I will not be able to see how deep I have cut. I need to think of a way round that now, 

 

Tim

 

 

Edited February 14 by oakheart

[iMustBeCrazy]

2 hours ago, oakheart said:

in fact thinking about it, it should work either way round

Looking closely at my 'old worn out' razor saw it's actually a pull saw but I like it better as a push saw. 😕

[iMustBeCrazy]

4 hours ago, oakheart said:

Looks like I need to make a cutting guide like you have.

And here we have the CrazyCutter MkII

 

[oakheart]

5 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

CrazyCutter MkII

Two questions:-

 

Is it MDF ?

Are they blocks glued together?

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

9 minutes ago, oakheart said:

Is it MDF ?

Are they blocks glued together?

Yes and yes.

 

I used 9mm mdf plus a piece of 3mm. Base is 100x50 big enough to be useful small enough to be handy. The top bits are 25x40 with the right one notched to allow clamping a stop. Everything is just glued in place.

Make sure the corners where they meet the saw are square. Glue the left block first and allow the dry then use a straight edge (ruler) and scribe the cut line. Glue the right block using the saw as a spacer and a straight edge to align the blocks, let dry. Glue the 3mm guide and let dry.

Cut the guide slot in the 3mm piece. Done. The only things that matter are the squareness of the slots (two sides/corners of each block and the guide) and the alignment of the two blocks. You could do the guide in two pieces using the straight edge to align the left side and the saw the right.

 

 

[oakheart]

6 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

The only things that matter are the squareness of the slots

Thanks for the great explanation, off I go to cut some parts.

 

I will get back to the build eventually.

but things keep diverting me, I am contemplating building a mini table saw, I have all of the parts to do it apart from a saw blade.

Ali plate, bearings, motor, arbour etc.

Not sure how useful it would be.

I have a small bandsaw on which I can rip wood close to finished size and then thickness sand on my nice new sander.

 

Tim

[oakheart]

Where does time go?

I keep getting diverted - Family, friends, house and garden all need attention the garden has woken up and keeps needing care.

 

Then in the post I got the cutter from Vanguard Models ( thanks Chris ) @chris watton that I ordered to go on the deck of 'Speedy' if you remember the painting of cutter 'Kite' that I posted had a pair of boats, I will just have this one on 'Speedy'

 

This is very much WIP, any comments welcome.

 

Practicing my painting technique. Not sure if colour would sit well with the rest of the model.

 

 

I have lightened the pearwood parts with a pale wash.

 

The Lieutenant is waiting to be coloured in next, so I will need a lot of practice.

 

Tim

 

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

On 3/25/2024 at 8:19 PM, oakheart said:

Where does time go?

I keep getting diverted

Me too, anyway that's a nice little cutter for your nice little cutter.