Contact Glue

[RolBerg]

Hello

 

I this a good glue to use for the second layer planking and deck planking?

What is the best method to apply contact glue, brush?

 

Rolf

[Bob Cleek]

I have no experience with this product at all, but if it is a "contact" adhesive as that product is generally understood, it isn't a very good choice for planking because it does what it says: sticks on contact. This doesn't allow for sliding the piece around to position it. The placement has to be perfect and as soon as the two surfaces with the contact cement are touching, they are stuck together pretty much for good. PVA is generally what is used for wood to wood gluing.

 

[Jaager]

If it is similar to DAP Weldwood contact cement  it is a synthetic rubber.

It is for adhering plastic laminate to a base. 

The layer is thick - too thick for scale - and it is prone to oxidizing after a decade or two = brittle and a release of the bond.

 

"You don't want it."

[DocRob]

When I was a kid in Berlin, every family had a tube of UHU for all purposes, being it repairs or whatever kids glue together. It's an absolute classic, but I never used it in plastic or wooden ship modeling. It's clear (if it's still the same mixture) and gel like. 
For planking, I use generally white glue for the first layer, where I can use nails for fixing the planks and for the second layer, I use Colle 21 contact glue (Sacrilege for some here ). You have to be very careful with the application of the Colle 21 CA. It's relatively thin and I spread it on the plank using another plank rest. The good, it only glues on contact, which has to made relatively fast and correct, which means, the planks should be prepared thoroughly.
I guess, UHU would glue the planks well enough, but the thickish gel would lead to residues, being pressed onto the planks surface.

 

Cheers Rob

Edited October 30, 2023 by DocRob

[Jaager]

20 minutes ago, DocRob said:

It's clear (if it's still the same mixture) and gel like. 

DAP Weldwood is very thick and amber.  Applied from a tube, I think that the bore of the tip would need to be fairly large and would need strong thumb muscles to extrude it.  I use it to hold sandpaper to a Maple sanding drum.  Mineral spirits will cause it to roll into balls, but I have found no actual solvent to remove it.  So, replacing the sandpaper is a major project. 

 

Clear and gel sounds like nitrocellulose in acetone - reasonable prise hold strength, but like CA,  leaves a bit to be desired holding against a sheer force.

[RolBerg]

I did read it in this article, there they say Contact Glue is good for the second planking layer.

 

https://www.modelerscentral.com/model-ship-building/what-glues-paints-do-i-need-for-a-model-ship/

Edited October 30, 2023 by RolBerg

[DocRob]

This is what the producer says:

UHU | Product page

Everyone in Germany knows this brand UHU and the product (Alleskleber or all purpose glue) and the old advertisement 'Im Falle eines Falles klebt Uhu wirklich Alles' Which means something like In every possible case UHU will glue everything. The stuff was first produced in 1932 as a complete innovation.

I wouldn't use it for wooden ship planking, despite it's glory history .

 

Cheers Rob

 

[Bob Cleek]

8 hours ago, Jaager said:

DAP Weldwood is very thick and amber.  Applied from a tube, I think that the bore of the tip would need to be fairly large and would need strong thumb muscles to extrude it.  I use it to hold sandpaper to a Maple sanding drum.  Mineral spirits will cause it to roll into balls, but I have found no actual solvent to remove it.  So, replacing the sandpaper is a major project. 

Have you ever tried acetone? If memory serves, that stuff is thinned with acetone. 

[Bob Cleek]

7 hours ago, RolBerg said:

I did read it in this article, there they say Contact Glue is good for the second planking layer.

 

https://www.modelerscentral.com/model-ship-building/what-glues-paints-do-i-need-for-a-model-ship/

Hasn't anyone ever told you not to believe everything you read on the internet... especially when it's posted on a merchant's website?    

[Jaager]

30 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

Have you ever tried acetone? If memory serves, that stuff is thinned with acetone.

I tried about every organic solvent available to civilians.  Several will denature it.  Nothing will wash it off.  I searched the MDF for the solvent in the can.  It seems to be a mixture that you really don't want to know is in it and still be willing to be in the room with.

I seem to remember that rubber is one of those polymers that has no practical solvent.  I remember an old saw about a way to get rich was to find a solvent for Cellophane% - perhaps rubber and synthetic rubber are the same?  Some chains are probably just too long.

 

% I was born and raised in Richmond where and when the manufacture and sale of packs of lung cancer and COPD was a major industry.  So too was the manufacture of tetraethyl lead.

[allanyed]

16 hours ago, RolBerg said:

Is this a good glue to use for the second layer planking and deck planking?

NEI

Allan

Edited October 30, 2023 by allanyed

[tmj]

I used to use contact cement to bond balsa wood sheeting to foam core wings back when I raced R/C pylons (quickie races). The contact cement worked 'great', however. These airplanes also didn't have a very long lifespan. They were cheap, fast, disposable airplanes! I still have two elderly 'Scat-Cats', standby leftovers from my racing days, who's wing skins are effectively separating from the foam cores... and they have never even been flown! I wouldn't trust contact cement, at all, for the long haul...