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Posted

Hello All!

 

Looking for suggestions related to a miniature angle drill / drill adapter.

 

Long story short, forgot to drill some wood strips before installing, and would like to see parts/suggestions before looking at the stripping the wood option.

 

Appreciate your assistance; greatly appreciated.

 

Merry Christmas!

 

Jorge

Posted

I'm not really sure what your question/situation is. If you are talking about installing planking, I usually drill my trenail holes after the planks have been glued in place with a #72 drill bit and a twist drill or pin vise. Need more info as to your situation. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.

Rich

Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777

Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

Posted
2 hours ago, barkeater said:

I'm not really sure what your question/situation is. If you are talking about installing planking, I usually drill my trenail holes after the planks have been glued in place with a #72 drill bit and a twist drill or pin vise. Need more info as to your situation. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.

Rich

It is a Cross Section build, so I missed some of the interior treenails BEFORE installing the planks!!!  Huge mistake on my part!  🤦‍♂️

Posted

Greater specificity would be helpful, but based on a guess as to what you want to accomplish with a "miniature angle drill / drill adapter," I'd say you won't find much of anything that will do the job other than an inexpensive dental drill. You can go with a relatively inexpensive air-turbine model or a more substantial and more costly (although not on the used market) belt-driven dental lab "dental engine" and handpieces. They come in many different angles and styles. The burrs (bitts) come in many configurations, as well.

 

Dremel makes a right angle attachment, but it is generally too large for "getting in close" in modeling applications. Amazon.com : dremel right angle attachment

These videos may help to answer your question.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
36 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

Greater specificity would be helpful, but based on a guess as to what you want to accomplish with a "miniature angle drill / drill adapter," I'd say you won't find much of anything that will do the job other than an inexpensive dental drill. You can go with a relatively inexpensive air-turbine model or a more substantial and more costly (although not on the used market) belt-driven dental lab "dental engine" and handpieces. They come in many different angles and styles. The burrs (bitts) come in many configurations, as well.

 

Dremel makes a right angle attachment, but it is generally too large for "getting in close" in modeling applications. Amazon.com : dremel right angle attachment

These videos may help to answer your question.

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, you basically got it with my prior message...  and yes, saw the Dremel adapter and thought of it too big as well.

 

Appreciate your assistance...  this I will try to see what I can do with a small burr wrapped in masking tape for some type of greip.

 

Thanks again!

 

Jorge

Posted

I have wanted an angled drill for work inside a hull. 

I have a right angle adapter that fits a Dremel.

I have a right angle adapter that fits a Foredom.

What I most want - for sanding in tight quarters is a 45 degree adapter.  No luck there.

 

The adapters are bulky and awkward for use in the tight spaces we work in.

 

I have a different approach for you.

Use a small Chinese DC motor instead. 

Aliexpress had/has  vendors that offer a wide variety of DC motors.  Many quite small.  many with collet chucks and Jacobs chucks.  A variety of chuck sizes.

They are not at all expensive.  Some are two, three, four finger width long - minus the chuck and bit, but if you can get your hand in there are motors that will fit.

As for a power source, why not cut to the chase? 

A benchtop DC power supply -  this one has clicks for 1.5V, 3V, 4.5V,... to 14V  so the rotational speed is under your control.

No batteries  or set DC plugin with a set output to try to parse a value for.

https://www.mpja.com/15-14V-2-Amp-Variable-Output-Supply/productinfo/36688+PS/

and

There are smaller gauge wires, but the plug that fits at one end and small alligator  clamps at the other are handy.

The rotation reverses if you switch the leads.

https://www.mpja.com/Set-of-2-Test-Leads-2-meter-Silicone-Ins-Red-Black-Pair/productinfo/32734+TE/

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Jaager said:

What I most want - for sanding in tight quarters is a 45 degree adapter.  No luck there.

 

There are lots of 45 degree dental engine handpieces in different styles, as well as other angles. Take a look at Paul Budzig's YouTube video above. He explains how an air turbine dental drill can be run off of a shop air compressor, which was news to me. The turbine drills are high speed / low torque, of course, so they are available at much lower price points than the heavy-duty bench engines used for making bridges and dentures, etc. There's also now a whole generation of "micro-motor" motorized handpiece technology on the market now. The older-style belt-driven "dental engines," which are still used for lab work, can really put out the torque at slower speeds which is best for micro-carving with shaky old hands.

 

image.png.bdb4faff8870507d709e1d0326a27e09.png

 

I scored my Buffalo Dental engine (picture below) on eBay for seventy-five bucks. Heavy Duty Bench Engines - Buffalo Dental Manufacturing Co. Inc.  It was described as "not running," but it looked brand new and it came with a handpiece that I knew was worth about $250, so I took a chance that it was something I might be able to fix. I checked it out when it arrived and, BINGO!, The motor brushes were gone and it was otherwise brand new! A phone call to the manufacturer and a new set of brushes and a drive belt arrived in the mail and it was good to go. My guess was that it was in stock in a large production dental lab and somebody's engine needed brushes and none were in stock, so they just cannibalized this new machine in the supply room to get the brushes and forgot to order replacements for the ones they took.  I got lucky on that one.  Must be my clean living. :D 

 

I just checked eBay out of curiosity, and somebody's got one listed as "buy it now" for $138.00 + $25.00 shipping.  BUFFALO DENTAL BENCH ENGINE NO 10 JEWELRY HOBBY POLISHER GRINDER ARTICULATED ARM | eBay  

 

Below is what my Model 16 looks like. It has a 1/5 HP motor. The one for sale on eBay is a Model 10 and has a 1/10 HP motor. The Model 16 which is currently in production retails for $800.00. The interchangeable handpieces are separately priced and retail for around $200.00 and up, but there's lots of them on the used market, as well. These are expensive, very high quality tools and because of changes in the dental lab technology these days (3D printing of custom dental prostheses) they are showing up on the second hand market with some regularity. If you can find a used one in decent shape, you can score a great modeling tool at really great savings. 

 

image.thumb.png.fc3ac5ea433f4b423900dc5469d0304a.png

 

Edited by Bob Cleek
Posted

Why not just a right angle punch of some sort?  All you really need is just a hole/ depression  that you can stick something into to represent a treenail..

 

It seems to me that the work you have to do after you have a hole will be more of a challenge than the hole itself.

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

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Posted
On 12/26/2023 at 8:12 PM, Gregory said:

Why not just a right angle punch of some sort?  All you really need is just a hole/ depression  that you can stick something into to represent a treenail..

 

It seems to me that the work you have to do after you have a hole will be more of a challenge than the hole itself.

The work to do isn't that bad, it is just the drilling concept, but hey, your idea is the one that I will probably use, as I can probably bend a steel wire, and use it as a punch.

 

Thanks!

 

Jorge

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