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I see a discussion about where to get them was on here but I have another question.

 

I know this is a ship building forum but I also build miniature furniture and was wondering what is the thinnest (I guess that's spelled right) blade you can get for a table saw?

 

Reason I'm asking is I would like to make dadoes for drawers and use 1/32" (.79mm ??) thick material.   I realize deflection and heat build up is an issue with thin blades but are they available that thin?

 

Oh, and you all are using slitting blades for cutting, may I ask why?  Are they thicker than a "normal" blade that you would use and more stable?

 

Edited by kgstakes
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I get my blades from Malco Saw .

 

The .03 is .762 mm

They have a 1/2" arbor, so you have to make an adapter or get the one from Micromark.

 

I have not had any problem with the .03 blade over heating and warping,  with stock 6mm or less.

 

The .02 can be a problem except with very thin stuff.  It's good for very shallow grooves.

 

 

Edited by Gregory

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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Slitting blades were what was supplied for the old PREAC Saw and it is limited to 3 inch (max) saw blades.  Slitting blades have no offset to the teeth so it's easy to pick your blade thickness to match the width of a slot (or stacking to get a specific width). 

I got away from slitting blades except in rare cases as I have found some carbide blades that work great for my work - and they don't get hot and bind up.

Kurt

Kurt Van Dahm

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kurtvd19,

 

If I'm understanding this correctly, I could buy slitting blades and use them as a "dado set"? 

That would be nice, I do some ship building, honestly I'm building my first one now Mississippi Riverboat by Occre.  But I also do miniature furniture and try to do the same joinery as I would do for full size pieces.  

 

Tell me more about these slitting blades or send me someplace and see what they do.

Thank you for all your help.

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22 minutes ago, kgstakes said:

Tell me more about these slitting blades or send me someplace and see what they do.

Thank you for all your help.

The blade you want will be dependent on your saw.  I don't see where you mentioned it.  The blade(s) would be dictated by arbor size and how much of the blade will stick up above the table.  I have a Byrnes Saw and can use a 1.5 inch blade...maybe even 1 inch.  I say that because with 1/32" material you will want a very thin blade but it need not stick up above the table much.

 

The link for MALCO Gregory gave above is where you need to go.  I am currently looking at "HIGH SPEED STEEL" "JEWELER"S SLOTTING SAW".  Blade # JS114006120 is 1.5 inch diameter and .006 inches thick (.15 mm).  There is a large selection to chose from.  :cheers:

 

https://www.malcosaw.com/product/js114006120/

 

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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I think Chuck was asking about your other parameters- diameter, arbor, etc.

 

However, I suspect you have that covered and are just trying to zero in on the kerf.

 

Malco has some 1/32 blades called Plain Metal Slitting saws.

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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Did you see Kurt's answer above?

 

I really don't have any idea..  I was just trying to find the kerf you were looking for.

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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There are two different Worlds and to help you we need to know which one that you are living in.

 

A.  Full sized table saw:  These typically use blades ranging in diameter from 7-1/2in to 12in.  Some hollow ground blades made for cutting veneer are as thin as 3/32in.  I have not encountered anything thinner.  

 

B.  Specialty Model Making Tablesaw (Proxxon and Byrnes).  These have either a 1/2in arbor or it’s metric equivalent.  These saws can use blades sold for cutting metals by machine tools.  These are often called slotting blades.  These blades usually have a diameter of 4in or less.  A commonly used blade is available as follows:

 

Diameter  3in

No of teeth. 93

Arbor hole size 1/2in

Width. .030in.

 

Much thinner blades are also available

 

Roger

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4 hours ago, kgstakes said:

Maybe you understood and I’m not understanding exactly what you’re saying

My error.  You mentioned you were working with 1/32" material and my thought was you needed a blade smaller than that.  I missed the fact that you wanted to make dadoes...which would have required the 1/32 blade.

 

Personally, I use slotting blades because that is what the saw originally came with.  They work for me and I am a creature of habit.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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Gregory,

 

Have to laugh because my name is Kurt also.  Then I realized you were talking about the other Kurt's answer regarding slitting blades.  Sometimes things get a little confusing for this little brain to fully function correctly.  

 

I've only used "regular carbide wood blades for my table saw so when I seen people using slitting blades I wanted to know why.  I assume better cut no set in the teeth and I can see if you wanted a dado or groove in your work piece it would give you a better cut, square bottom in the cut, etc.

 

I sorta knew the answer to why everyone was using them but really didn't know where to look for them.  I've seen them on Jim's website but I guess for some reason I thought it was a specialty item that you would use only for certain cutting operations.  Not all the time.  Good to know and I'll be looking for some thin blades and maybe be able to use them as a "stack dado" for future operations.

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1 hour ago, Roger Pellett said:

 Some hollow ground blades made for cutting veneer are as thin as 3/32in.  I have not encountered anything thinner.

I came across one that is 1/16"  kerf and a 10: diameter,  but @~$200 I am not sure it qualifies as being something real.

 

https://www.infinitytools.com/10-laser-thin-kerf-saw-blade-1-16-kerf

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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