HMS Sphinx 1775 by cdrusn89 - Vanguard Models - 1/64

[cdrusn89]

I got the upper outer bulwarks curved and glued on (mostly).

 

When I started to fit the lower band I noticed that the lower part on each side right at the bow was not glued down so I added some more PVA and clamped them as best I could (you can see the clamps in the pictures) and will continue fitting the lower band when this is dry.

 

I also managed to get the little tab that is part of the gun port door on the forward lower part on one side bent outward a bit so I re-wet that part and clamped it straight (hopefully) and will let that dry too - I only wet the part on both sides I did not soak it so (hopefully) I will not have to wait overnight again.

 

 

Edited June 23 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

After I added the outer patterns to the stem and keel it became obvious that there was a small gap between - wide enough that paint was not going to hide it so I added some filler (on both sides) and since this area will be painted I hope the gap may disappear.

So  the next step is the outer counter "pattern". And it is thin enough that there is no need of soaking and shaping so it is just a matter of finding a way to clamp it to the inner pattern and "stick" to the curvature. I had to use four clamps and several rubber bands. The rubber bands (with pieces of sanding sticks under them) to get the upper (actually the lower with the hull upright) edges to match the lower pattern.

You may notice that the entire counter is slightly offset to the right (in the picture). The offset is about 1mm wide and I am sure it is going to cause no end of problems later. In addition the counter upper (in the picture) corners stick out about 3mm from the hull. Once the second layer of planking is in place I assume these will be sanded down to match the hull curvature.

 

Anyway, with the upper and lower external bulwarks and the first to rows of planking in place it is time to start the second layer of planking hoping for smoother results that the first layer.

 

Here is my version of steps 180 and 181 in the instruction manual.

 

 

[cdrusn89]

I added two full length, un-tapered planks at the wales similar to what was done on the first layer but only two rows as the starting point is further down the hull.

 

Then I soaked both ends of two slightly shortened planks and clamped them on each side.

 

These will become the garboard strake and then I plan on laying out the hull similarly to what was done on the first layer. Probably overkill. First task is to establish the bulkhead locations but that should not be too hard as most of them are still visible at deck level.

[JFMJr]

3 hours ago, cdrusn89 said:

I added two full length, un-tapered planks at the wales similar to what was done on the first layer but only two rows as the starting point is further down the hull.

 

Then I soaked both ends of two slightly shortened planks and clamped them on each side.

 

These will become the garboard strake and then I plan on laying out the hull similarly to what was done on the first layer. Probably overkill. First task is to establish the bulkhead locations but that should not be too hard as most of them are still visible at deck level.

Beautiful work!

[cdrusn89]

Thanks - JFM - It is somewhat easier the second time around.

 

Best laid plans and all that. I thought that two sheer planks and one garboard would "do" but when I measured it was 100mm at the widest point and the pear planks are only 4mm wide (first layer was 5mm) so it would take 25 planks to cover the hull.

 

Unfortunately my planking fan is only good for a max of 24 planks so I added one more, full width at the sheer and garboard and now can proceed to line off the starboard side.

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side lined off and plank butt pattern established (red "x"). Probably overkill but since it makes it easier at the ends to have the joints they might as well have some "order".

[cdrusn89]

On to the second layer of planking.

 

Before I lined off the hull I measured what I thought was a representative sample of the pear planks and used that measurement 4.0mm + or - .06mm) to get the number of required planks.

 

Turns out my representative sample wasn't all that representative as I have since found 10 (so far) that are more like 3.85mm + or - .08mm. If they were all like that I would need more than 25 planks to cover the hull. I also found at least two that are decidedly (like 1mm) narrower at one end than the other.

So I am in the process of separating (as best I can) the 4mm planks from the 3.8mm ones (and of course the ones that narrow at one end).

 

I started planking the starboard side with the 4mm planks and I need to find enough (hopefully) to finish that side and then I will line off the port side using 3.8mm as the nominal plank width assuming the planks are more or less evenly split between the two widths.

 

The moral of the story is to use the same plank width for each row - you want them the same width where they join.

 

 

In any event here is the starboard side with four more rows of sheer planks installed.

Edited June 26 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

I got carried away on the starboard side and am now half finished: 12 of 24 rows completed. It is going considerably better than the first layer but I have to keep reminding myself that this layer "shows" at least some of it REALLY shows.

I did not neglect the port side completely I did get it line off and plank butts marked.

 

Tomorrow is "port side day".

 

 

[cdrusn89]

Girlfriend needed the iron today so I could only work the keel side of the port side.

 

I use the iron to bend the planks as they go over the stern.

 

So here is the port side with 8 additional rows added - 16 to go on this side, 12 on the starboard side.

[Ronald-V]

Looking good! Kinda funny when your girlfriend needs your shipbuilding tool to iron her clothes  

 

I bought myself a little travel iron...they are a bit smaller than the usual ones which is a bit more handy.

[cdrusn89]

Ronald - ,I think you have it backwards; I need her ironing tool to support the shipbuilding. Amazon is bring me the shipbuilding iron on Monday but I have hers back until then.

 

Worked on both sides today - have ten rows to go on each side although not the same ones as you can see below.

[cdrusn89]

Port side planking completed.

 

Had to split the last row into three pieces but was able to follow my plank butt scheme pretty faithfully otherwise. Not that it will matter since almost all of them are under paint.

[Ronald-V]

Looking great! Another milestone reached! 💫

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Ronald.

 

And now both sides planked, sanded and wiped down with mineral spirits.

 

Next is to mark the waterline and start with a thin coat of filler below the waterline and some "extra care" in those areas that will "show". I do have some Minwax Golden Oak wood filler which is a pretty close match to the supplied pear. It may come down to that but only as a last resort.

 

 

[brunnels]

Your planking looks fantastic. 

[cdrusn89]

Waterline marked and masked off.

 

First coat of thinned filler on starboard side.

[cdrusn89]

Yes Brunnels it always looks best when wiped with mineral spirits.

 

The dull pear looks pretty bland  and it shows all the "issues" much better. Hence I show in after the wipe down.

[Ronald-V]

Agreed with Brunnels! Lovely planking! Almost sad you going to cover it with paint  

Edited July 2 by Ronald-V

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Ronald - yes, sadly painting or otherwise (copper) covering the hull seems to be the way on all the Vanguard kits.

 

Historical accuracy IS important but as the builder it is our right to do "as we see fit" in these matters.

 

On my Confederacy I used holly for the hull planking to get the lighter "look" without paint. I used walnut on the wales so I did not have to paint them either.

 

Edited July 2 by cdrusn89

[chris watton]

When nicely planked, I see no reason why the modeller should not just leave the lower hull uncoppered or unpainted.

[cdrusn89]

Here are the two sides after the first round of fill and sand.

 

And yes I just wiped them down with mineral spirits.

 

Not too terrible IMHO. Better than my previous Sphinx second planking (see post 136) - lots more white showing in those pictures.

 

I am going to let the mineral spirits dry and then put the hull in the paint booth and use the automotive gray primer with filler and hope that it will identify the areas that need more work and keep the fill and sand to only two cycles (I think I did it four times on the previous hull).

[cdrusn89]

A somewhat disappointing trip to the paint booth.

 

It looks like I can see every seam now. Maybe the moisture or something in the paint causes the seams to "appear" but this certainly is not what I expected.

 

I am going to dilute the filler a bit more and try again.

[cdrusn89]

After the second application of thinned filler and subsequent sanding.

 

I think I can see very narrow bands of white here and there which hopefully represent the filling of some of the small "cracks" that were so obviously present after the primer application.

 

Back to the paint booth now to see what needs further attention.

[James H]

Mine was sanded, filled, cut back, filled, sanded about 3 or 4 times. 

 

I think it's a rare occasion when you get it first time. Yours is looking real good though.

[cdrusn89]

Thanks James

 

I think it was 4 rounds on my first Sphinx hull before I started with the finish (aka flat white) paint.

 

One thing I will do when I get to Indy is run all the planking material through my thickness sander to reduce as much as my tools will allow thickness variations in the planking material.

[cdrusn89]

Round three shows much improvement but at least one more round required.

Edited July 4 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

I added a bit more filler to the "stage 3" hull sanded and think that will "do it".

 

In recognition of that I removed the masking that was just below the waterline and replaced it with masking at the waterline and carefully (I hope) fared the built up primer into the hull.

 

Another coat of primer and on inspection and after some very limited 320 grit sanding I put the hull back min the paint booth for the finish coats of flat white. I am using Testors (aka Rust-oleum) spray paint (3 oz can) as this seemed to work out well on Sphinx hull #1. Although it took forever and a day to dry.

[cdrusn89]

In between sand and fill cycles I have been working on the gun carriage tackles. I am going to rig only the recoil and run-in/out tackle.

 

So I need 40 sets of tackle. I decided to use 3mm as that is about as small as I can figure out how to strop and get a hook on the end.

 

Here are the 40 blocks with becket and the line attached. There are 10 more "in production" as it would be a rare occurrence if I managed to get all 40 in place without mishap.

 

I used ,3mm tan line from Ships of Scale.

 

The other blocks are ready to go as well so all I need now is a deck to mount them on.

 

Edited July 6 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

I had a "bobo" on the bow where somehow I managed to NOT get the white paint everywhere it should be so the hull is back in the paint booth for hopefully the last time unless I lose my senses and even consider spraying the exterior bulwarks.

 

So to kill some time in a productive manner and avoid doing things "around the house" I built the belfry and the forescastle railings.

 

Here they are after painting. I used double sided tape to hold down the really small pieces. I could not think of a better way to do it lacking those little "sticky sticks" I see the plastic model guys use.

Speaking of tools I had a terrible time getting the railing posts on the railing "square". I did not attempt to get them at anything other than 90 degrees. I will handle the deck curvature at install. I finally used my parallel pliers to squeeze the post onto the railing after I cleaned up the laser char in the slots on both the railing and posts. A few drops of medium CA on the underside of the railing and "assembly complete".

[cdrusn89]

Continuing the assembly of "deck furniture" here are the ship's wheel and binnicle.

 

I built one of the Syren ship's wheels but it is too big to fit and even though I tried to fabricate a way for it to fit in the end it looked too "clunky" so I am going with the kit provided wheel.