18th Century Longboat 1750-1760 by davec - Model Shipways - 1/48

[davec]

In addition to my DH-9, I’ve also started the Model Shipways longboat. There are lots of other build logs with pictures of the kit parts, so I won’t repeat pictures here. I'm very appreciative of all the other great logs to use for reference. This build will be very heavily kit-bashed.  I’m planning on replacing all of the basswood with boxwood. 

 

I’m very grateful to Chuck, who laser cut the frames for me.  I was going to try to cut them on a scroll saw, but was worried that it wouldn't work as well as the laser for the partially cut inside each frame, which is important to hold everything together while fairing and planking.

Chuck not only sent me laser cut frames, but also the other laser cut pieces.  The kit includes 3/32 thick basswood frames, which are a little out of scale, but necessary as the basswood isn’t as forgiving as boxwood for fairing and clamping the planks.  Chuck cut the frames on 1/16” boxwood, which is more to scale.  I thought I would have to scratch the false keel with 1/16 instead of 3/32 slots, but even that had been adjusted for – tremendously impressive.

 

I usually scratch build, so this was my first experience with laser cutting and removing char.  The thread on char removal (char-removal-arrrghh) was really helpful.  Scraping with an 11 blade followed by 320 grit sandpaper has worked pretty well for me.  I’ve been using an abrasive cleaning stick so I don’t have to discard the sanding stick once it gets dirty with char, which has also worked pretty well. It is also taking some time to get used to adjusting the laser kerf to a right angle.  Removing char and kerf without changing the part's size and shape has been a challenge.  I thought I had screwed up taking too much off the stem when I saw it didn't line up with the keel.  I saw Chuck’s comment in the other thread that he makes the parts oversize to allow for cleanup and checked the plans.  The stem is the right size and I just need to sand down the keel to match.

 

I’m having mixed feelings about laser cutting.  It is great for complicated parts like the frames and the keelson with all the slots.  I just made the filler pieces for the bow.  It was much faster to cut them on the scroll saw than it would have been to clean the char.  I’ll probably be selective about which laser cut pieces I use and which ones I replace moving forward.

 

Keel and keelson are done and glued. I think I have the tapering right for the rabbet, and after a little filing, the frames all fit in the slots in the keelson.  I'll start assembling the frames soon.

[VTHokiEE]

Looks like you’re off to a good start! I’m so impressed with people who can juggle multiple builds; for better or worse I find that I can only focus on one thing at a time (but darn if some other kits in the garage aren’t calling my name every time I walk out there). Looking forward to seeing what you do with this build.

[davec]

Hi Tim - With two, it doesn't feel too much like juggling. I haven't done build logs of both, but I've been doing a plastic plane at the same time I work on my ship for the last few years.  A lot of evenings I only work on one project. I have the space to leave both out at the same time. It's nice to have a second project for when I'm stuck on one or have to wait while glue or paint dries.  It's a lot easier to see progress on the plastic model.  I also don't stress quite as much about overall quality on the plastic models, so usually work on them when I come home tired and am worried I won't do work I'm happy with.

[davec]

I usually use minwax wipe on poly on boxwood and planned to do the same here.  I thought applying it before assembly would work better than trying to brush or rub it on smoothly between the frames.  I wanted to avoid the surfaces that would get glued.  I usually use it full strength and apply as per the directions.  This time I thinned with mineral spirits and brushed it on and am happy - I was able to brush around the slots for the frames and the pseudo-rabbet, so it shouldn't interfere with the strength of the glue joints.  Only surprise was when I brushed over the laser precut separation, I got some laser char mixed in.  Next time I'll need to try to vacuum or brush away any loose char from the slots before finishing.  I've glued in the first frame.

[Chuck]

Looking good so far!!   Have fun with the project.

[davec]

Getting the frames set in all 3 dimensions turned a little more challenging than I thought.  I’ve done some travelling and only had short workshop sessions each day, so was only attaching 1-2 frames every few days. 

I had a setback where every time I added a piece, I got a dark mark at the joint.  I thought it was the char particles getting caught in the glue so I debonded, sanded, and reglued a few times.  I finally realized that the moisture in the glue was oxidizing the machinist angle plates I was using to keep things square when drying.  I stopped using the plates, which got rid of the staining, but made keeping everything oriented more challenging. I think I finally have the frames where I want them.

 

I’ll be shaping a sacrificial strip to glue across the upper end of the frames, crossing over to the filler pieces.  I’m worried that I debonded and reglued so much that my glue joints won’t be strong and the extra support will be important.  I have the last piece drying and will post a picture later today.

[davec]

I think I'm finally in business with the frames being properly oriented.  I have some night shifts and travel coming up.  It will be a week or so before I can start fairing.

 

[davec]

I decided to add some support prior to fairing.  The basswood pieces will get removed after.  It has been a while of gluing, debonding, and regluing, but I think I am in a good place. The frames are symmetric and look in the right place related to the bearding line.  Took longer than planned, but hopefully sets me up for success for the rest of the build.

[davec]

Fairing complete (I think).  The supports worked.  I was able to sand without anything coming loose, which was great as the boxwood was harder to sand than basswood would have been.  I'm ready to start marking out the strakes and starting planking.  The kit instructions use 1/8x1/32 basswood planks and edge bend them into place.  Not sure whether this is going to work with boxwood.  I'll give it a try, but cut the planks from 1/32" sheet so that if I need to spile some of the planks from sheet stock, the grain will all look the same.