David Chapman Posted February 26 #1 Posted February 26 Question, In the instructions it shows gluing the ship to the stand early in the build. I worry that might restrict flexibility in painting. Can/should I wait until closer to installing masts etc? David Scottish Guy and Keith Black 2 Quote
Lost and Confused Posted February 26 #2 Posted February 26 I am presently building the revell 1:96 Cutty Sark. I did not glue the stands on until I was almost done with the hull assembly, as this allows you to maneuver the model around as needed. When all is about assembled on the hull, go ahead and glue the stands on. A good time to add a wooden plaque stand if you like. Scottish Guy, Keith Black and mtaylor 3 Quote
Lost and Confused Posted February 26 #3 Posted February 26 By the way....Welcome aboard......There are some master modelers here.....You might check out the build logs....Check out Bruma's Cutty Sark, build log if you want to see something just wonderful.....very inspiring Keith Black, Scottish Guy and mtaylor 3 Quote
Keith Black Posted February 26 #4 Posted February 26 David, welcome to MSW. Were I you I'd wait till I absolutely had to have a stand mounted. In your journey you might discover a different stand that you like better. I'm not impressed with most stands provided by manufactures in their kits. They're usually cheap looking and take away from all the hard work of the builder. You can make a temporary stand out of almost anything till you're sure you want to commit to the stand provided. mtaylor and Scottish Guy 2 Quote Current Builds: 1870's Sternwheeler, Lula Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration
catopower Posted February 26 #5 Posted February 26 Hi David, welcome to MSW! Others have given some good advice here. I'll just add that I would at least start considering how you want to mount the model. If you wait too long, it will become difficult to drill holes into the bottom of the ship safely, if that's something your stand will require. I usually use mounting pins or screws and try to plan where they will go ahead of time. If your model has a solid hull, then screws or pins are no problem. If it is plank-on-bulkhead, you may want to reinforce the interior structure by gluing in some solid wood blocks, so screws or pins will have something to support them. mtaylor, Keith Black and Scottish Guy 3 Quote Clare Hess He's a -> "HE" Current Builds HMS Wolf, 1754 - Shipyard Laser Cut Kit Kitamaebune - Japanese Coastal Trade Ship, 18th/19th Centuries - Woody Joe Kit Atakebune - Japanese Sengoku Period Warship - Woody Joe Kit
David Chapman Posted February 27 Author #6 Posted February 27 Thanks for the welcome and the great advice. Really appreciate it. This is my work space and where I'm at today. Long ways to go! GrandpaPhil, Scottish Guy, ScottRC and 2 others 5 Quote
David Chapman Posted February 29 Author #7 Posted February 29 Another question. As amazingly precise as the model parts generally are... what's up with the circles with raised edges on most all of the pieces? I'm already (happily) spending considerable time clipping, triming, and filing including the circles. But they seem nearly impossible to eliminate. I guess I should live with that? David mtaylor, Keith Black and Scottish Guy 3 Quote
shipman Posted February 29 #8 Posted February 29 Those are witness marks from pins that push the sprues out of the molds, the bane of the older plastic kits. David Chapman, Keith Black, Scottish Guy and 1 other 4 Quote
David Chapman Posted March 1 Author #9 Posted March 1 (edited) On 2/26/2024 at 9:59 AM, David Chapman said: Ouch! Just stabbed myself pretty well. Lots of blood but it'll be fine. The irony is that I did it while trying to cut off a dreaded "Witness Mark"! Grrr... Edited March 1 by David Chapman Keith Black and Scottish Guy 1 1 Quote
David Chapman Posted March 5 Author #10 Posted March 5 Stuck... I'm starting to put parts on the deck. Before gluing the forward raised deck in place it indicates to feed the anchor chain under that forward raised deck and then out the hole on the side of the bow. But there is no opening to allow for that. What am I missing? David Scottish Guy, mtaylor and Keith Black 3 Quote
David Chapman Posted March 6 Author #11 Posted March 6 On 3/5/2024 at 1:44 PM, David Chapman said: Stuck... I'm starting to put parts on the deck. Before gluing the forward raised deck in place it indicates to feed the anchor chain under that forward raised deck and then out the hole on the side of the bow. But there is no opening to allow for that. What am I missing? David Figured it out. Cutting the chain under the forward deck and inside the hull. Keith Black, mtaylor and Scottish Guy 3 Quote
David Chapman Posted March 7 Author #12 Posted March 7 On 2/26/2024 at 2:28 PM, catopower said: Hi David, welcome to MSW! Others have given some good advice here. I'll just add that I would at least start considering how you want to mount the model. If you wait too long, it will become difficult to drill holes into the bottom of the ship safely, if that's something your stand will require. I usually use mounting pins or screws and try to plan where they will go ahead of time. If your model has a solid hull, then screws or pins are no problem. If it is plank-on-bulkhead, you may want to reinforce the interior structure by gluing in some solid wood blocks, so screws or pins will have something to support them. Clare, I'm too far beyond drilling holes. It's the first model I have built in 60? years so going to go straight stock on the first one back. Scottish Guy, mtaylor and Keith Black 3 Quote
David Chapman Posted March 20 Author #13 Posted March 20 Chain(s). So I used 4 parts of the long, skinny chain for on the deck and coming out the sides of the bow. Had a fair amount left so I looked ahead studying the instructions. On step 92, pg. 31 lower right hand image it clearly shows multiple lengths of small chain going to the bow sprit with the anchor chain much larger. I have only the finer chain and not the larger chain for the anchor. What gives!? Scottish Guy and Keith Black 2 Quote
ccoyle Posted March 20 #14 Posted March 20 David, since your topic is more or less morphing into a build log, I have formatted your title accordingly and moved it into the proper area. Good luck with your project! Scottish Guy and Keith Black 2 Quote Chris Coyle Greer, South Carolina When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, DS Børøysund
David Chapman Posted April 1 Author #16 Posted April 1 All. Still have the chain question from above. Also, I'm about to start with the rigging. Confused which threads correspond to which letter from the instructions. If A, B, C, and D are as shown in the photo then why do I have such a big D spool when almost none of the directions show to use it. Would really appreciate some help here as I'd hate to get off on the wrong foot. Keith Black and Scottish Guy 2 Quote
David Chapman Posted April 1 Author #18 Posted April 1 Progress... Keith Black, Scottish Guy, wemattson and 1 other 4 Quote
David Chapman Posted April 2 Author #19 Posted April 2 On 2/26/2024 at 11:27 AM, Lost and Confused said: By the way....Welcome aboard......There are some master modelers here.....You might check out the build logs....Check out Bruma's Cutty Sark, build log if you want to see something just wonderful.....very inspiring Can't seem to find anything about Bruma in search mode. Keith Black and Scottish Guy 2 Quote
Keith Black Posted April 3 #20 Posted April 3 David, you're doing a good job thus far, nice clean lines. If I might make a suggestion, if you plan on keeping this model for many years to come once completed, were it I, I'd make my mast and yards from wood and order wood blocks. Because plastic mast and yards will be under a lot of stress once rigged, not many years down the road the plastic mast and yards are likely to snap. Wood mast and yards may in time warp but they're much less likely to snap. If you chose to go wood mast and yards, wood blocks will enhance your efforts. Scottish Guy 1 Quote Current Builds: 1870's Sternwheeler, Lula Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration
Lost and Confused Posted April 3 #22 Posted April 3 Nice looking job, David. My Cutty Sark kit came with 2 different sizes of chain, although I ended up not using either one. There are multitudes of markets for chain out there, easily learned about, just by reading these forums. Same with rigging line. Even going "stock" with this kit, as you intend to, it might be wise to download some more comprehensive rigging plans, as the ones provided by Revell are extremely vague at best. I downloaded the Campbell plans which are used by the majority of CS builders. If nothing else, with these you can figure out the grey areas in the Revell plans. You can find them hereabouts for free. I have found that I spend more time looking stuff up, than actual modeling. Check out other folkses build logs and many of your questions will be answered before you even ask them. These guys are here to help. Keep up the good work. Keith Black and Scottish Guy 2 Quote
David Chapman Posted April 5 Author #23 Posted April 5 On 4/3/2024 at 12:57 AM, shipman said: This may help... Yes, Keith I have started reading your log as well as Bruma's as well as Longridges book, The Cuddy Sark. Wow, a ton to digest. Keith Black and Scottish Guy 2 Quote
David Chapman Posted April 5 Author #24 Posted April 5 On 4/3/2024 at 8:45 AM, Lost and Confused said: Nice looking job, David. My Cutty Sark kit came with 2 different sizes of chain, although I ended up not using either one. There are multitudes of markets for chain out there, easily learned about, just by reading these forums. Same with rigging line. Even going "stock" with this kit, as you intend to, it might be wise to download some more comprehensive rigging plans, as the ones provided by Revell are extremely vague at best. I downloaded the Campbell plans which are used by the majority of CS builders. If nothing else, with these you can figure out the grey areas in the Revell plans. You can find them hereabouts for free. I have found that I spend more time looking stuff up, than actual modeling. Check out other folkses build logs and many of your questions will be answered before you even ask them. These guys are here to help. Keep up the good work. Yeah, I'm going to check out the Campbell plans. Thanks for the lead! Scottish Guy and Keith Black 2 Quote
Keith Black Posted April 5 #25 Posted April 5 16 minutes ago, David Chapman said: Wow, a ton to digest. If you want to learn ship building techniques and do the best job possible on your project, research is vital and often requires more time than actual modeling. Scottish Guy and BETAQDAVE 2 Quote Current Builds: 1870's Sternwheeler, Lula Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration
David Chapman Posted April 5 Author #26 Posted April 5 You got that right, and it's fun! But OMG, there are way too many terms to remember for this old geezer. Doing my Best! David Keith Black and Scottish Guy 2 Quote
Keith Black Posted April 5 #27 Posted April 5 I'm a 77 year old geezer, and yourself? Scottish Guy 1 Quote Current Builds: 1870's Sternwheeler, Lula Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration
David Chapman Posted April 6 Author #28 Posted April 6 18 hours ago, Keith Black said: I'm a 77 year old geezer, and yourself? Just a mere 70... Keith Black and Scottish Guy 2 Quote
Keith Black Posted April 6 #29 Posted April 6 Ah, you're not a young man but you've got plenty of years left to you. I started this crazy ship modeling hobby when I was 69, I wish I had started at a much younger age. There's a certain amount of information and knowledge one needs to absorb to be semi successful in the hobby. If you come late to the party as I did it's very hard to reach a high level of accomplishment, now at 77 I have to be satisfied with the fact that I'll never be much better than I am today. That's why it's so important to get kids interested and involved in ship modeling when they're young so they'll have the chance to become masters and more importantly, teachers. We each must do what we can to pass the torch no matter how small the flame. BETAQDAVE and Scottish Guy 2 Quote Current Builds: 1870's Sternwheeler, Lula Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration
David Chapman Posted April 8 Author #30 Posted April 8 I agree. Just last weekend, I gave my 13 year old grandson his first model. Hopefully he enjoys it. 😀 Keith Black and Scottish Guy 2 Quote
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