palmerit Posted October 4 Author #61 Posted October 4 I assume belaying pins are glued in place at this point Right? AJohnson 1 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
AJohnson Posted October 4 #62 Posted October 4 (edited) 2 hours ago, palmerit said: I assume belaying pins are glued in place at this point Right? I do, they will be fiddly to add later. Just make sure they are fully seated so enough pokes out of the underside for you to wrap your rigging around. Something I didn’t do with a few on my Trial build on a couple of them. Your build is looking very good, like how neat it looks on post #59. Edited October 4 by AJohnson PaddyO 1 Quote Andrew Current builds:- HM Gun-brig Sparkler - Vanguard (1/64) , HMAV Bounty - Caldercraft (1/64) Completed (Kits):- Vanguard Models (1/64) :- HM Cutter Trial , Nisha - Brixham trawler Caldercraft (1/64) :- HMS Orestes(Mars), HM Cutter Sherbourne Paper Shipwright (1/250) :- TSS Earnslaw, Puffer Starlight
palmerit Posted October 5 Author #63 Posted October 5 Lesson learned, lesson shared: I was building the catheads and since I had removed the char from other parts (like belay pin racks) I just plunged ahead and removed the char from the small parts for the catheads too. I should have waited until get were put together or just not worried about it since I was planning to paint them. The small pieces at the end of the catheads are small and after sanding they now don’t fit snuggly. Stuka, Ronald-V, PaddyO and 1 other 4 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
palmerit Posted October 6 Author #64 Posted October 6 They look a little better after some wood filler, sanding, and paint. AJohnson, PaddyO, Ronald-V and 5 others 8 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
palmerit Posted October 6 Author #65 Posted October 6 Another lesson learned, lesson shared: Not having done modeling since I was a kid, and not having done anything but the most basic wood working, there are lots of basic things I’m discovering and learning. After making a mistake, I poke around here, YouTube, and other places where I learn how to fix my mistake. I could have avoided the mistake by reading more and taking reams of notes, but sometimes it’s best to live your mistakes. Another good reason for starting with a small, relatively inexpensive model. So most of my pants (airbrush and brush) are Vallejo. They’ve worked great for everything. I wrongly assumed that the Vallejo acrylic primer would work on photoetch. Well it doesn’t, unfortunately. You can see it on the eyebolt. I knew you needed to prime PE. But I thought primer was primer. Now I know it’s not. I’ve ordered a solvent-based primer for priming PE going forward. I bought the Tamiya after watching this fine scale modeler video. I’m sure this is all well-known to anyone with any modeling experience. It’s new to me. Ronald-V, PaddyO and Ryland Craze 3 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
palmerit Posted October 6 Author #66 Posted October 6 I’m making the deck pumps and each calls for a 3mm x 25mm dowel. I couldn’t find any precut and did not see them listed separately in the parts list at the end of the instructions. There is one 3mm x 330mm dowel supplied. From that, I’ll need to make the upper yard (3mm x 129mm) and middle yard (3mm x 170mm). Adding those two up, it’s 299mm, leaving only 31mm left on the 330mm long 3mm dowel. Am I just confused, missing a part to complete the deck pumps, misreading the instructions, or are the pumps not supposed to be 25mm high, or made from a different width dowel? Ryland Craze, PaddyO and rcweir 3 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
palmerit Posted October 6 Author #67 Posted October 6 (edited) A great thing about Vanguard's models is that the guy who owns it (Chris Watton) is on here and responds to your messages unbelievably quickly. Thanks Chris. He suggested these should be 15mm each, not 25mm each, meaning there is enough in the supplied 3mm dowel. I would have done that (or bought a dowel from a hobby shop) but wanted to make sure I wasn’t misreading something. Edited October 9 by palmerit rcweir, Ryland Craze, PaddyO and 1 other 4 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
palmerit Posted October 13 Author #68 Posted October 13 Been adding parts to the deck. I just have to do the cannon a bit more pieces and then it’ll be on to the masts. KARAVOKIRIS, Stuka, PaddyO and 10 others 12 1 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
Stuka Posted October 13 #69 Posted October 13 Its looking really good! palmerit and AJohnson 2 Quote Kind regards Robin Current build Vanguard Models HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne 1:64
Olli Sukunimisson Posted October 13 #70 Posted October 13 Super! Looks really, really well painted. palmerit and AJohnson 2 Quote
AJohnson Posted October 13 #71 Posted October 13 Very neat, great painting 👍 palmerit 1 Quote Andrew Current builds:- HM Gun-brig Sparkler - Vanguard (1/64) , HMAV Bounty - Caldercraft (1/64) Completed (Kits):- Vanguard Models (1/64) :- HM Cutter Trial , Nisha - Brixham trawler Caldercraft (1/64) :- HMS Orestes(Mars), HM Cutter Sherbourne Paper Shipwright (1/250) :- TSS Earnslaw, Puffer Starlight
chris watton Posted October 13 #72 Posted October 13 (edited) That does look really nice! I shall tell you a secret about the stove chimney - After I received the photo etched sheets for Sherbourne, I realised to my horror that I had forgot to add the chimney to the sheet, too late to change it, as I already ordered the production parts. So I had to design one for 3-d printing instead, but in the end, it worked out fine.... Edited October 13 by chris watton Ronald-V, AJohnson, Ryland Craze and 4 others 7 Quote Vanguard Models on Facebook
Ronald-V Posted October 13 #73 Posted October 13 Nice clean lines! Really nice AJohnson and palmerit 2 Quote Currently working on the HMS Sphinx from Vanguard Models
palmerit Posted October 13 Author #74 Posted October 13 (edited) A possible suggestion for the pure novices like me: I really haven’t liked worked with CA (super) glue. For my next double planked hull, I’ll probable try using wood glue and clamps, even if it makes the second planking take 4x as long. But you can’t get around using CA with PE (photoetch). It’s not as much of a challenge (for me) when doing something like glueing in an eyelet or belaying pin: I just dip the end of the piece into a small pearl of glue and then insert it in place. It was using CA on flat PE parts that gave me a headache: such as the tiny Roman numerals on the prow. When poking around on some general modeling YouTube videos on using PE I saw the suggestion of instead using a flat clear acrylic print instead of CA (which I later read in some instructions for another Vanguard model). Being paint, it’s slow to dry. And it stays flat (both physically and in sheen). I used Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear to attach the hinges on the companionway. After everything gets a matte varnish, I’m guessing it’ll all be as secure as if I had used CE. Edited October 13 by palmerit rcweir, JacquesCousteau, PaddyO and 2 others 5 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
palmerit Posted October 13 Author #75 Posted October 13 (edited) Another couple of things that have been really helpful is an Optivisor and really fine point paint brushes. I bought an Optivisor with a 2.75x lens with a Optiloupe auxiliary lens (which gives another 2.5x in one eye). I bought mine from Otto Frei (I buy tons of stuff on Amazon, but I don’t trust resellers). I wear my eyeglasses while wearing the Optivisor. And it rotates up so I don’t need to take it on and off. I buy brushes at a local art supply store. I started with what I thought were really small 1, 0, and 000 brushes. But I’ve since bought a 00000 and a tiny 18/0 for painting while using the Optivisor. Edited October 13 by palmerit Knocklouder, rcweir, PaddyO and 3 others 6 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
Knocklouder Posted October 13 #76 Posted October 13 (edited) You can use this instead of CA, it dries clear , and washs off with water. I did the copper on my Pegasus as well as the PE for it and the Duchess of Kingston. It worked really well for me, but this is only my opinion. Bob M. Ps. I forgot to say , Hello palmerit Edited October 13 by Knocklouder More info palmerit, Mr Whippy, AJohnson and 1 other 4 Quote Start so you can Finish !! Finished: The Sea of Galilee Boat-Scott Miller-1:20 , Amati } Hannah Ship in a Bottle:Santa Maria : LA Pinta : La Nana : The Mayflower : Viking Ship Drakkar The King Of the Mississippi Artesania Latina 1:80 Current Build: Royal Yacht, Duchess of Kingston-Vanguard Models
palmerit Posted October 13 Author #77 Posted October 13 Starting the production line to make the cannons. Definitely easier with an airbrush. Craigie65, Mr Whippy, rcweir and 7 others 10 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
Nick 843 Posted October 17 #78 Posted October 17 On the CA glue thing, you might want to try microbrushes, see the pic in Knocklouder's post above. I use them a lot with resin models, also PE. You can position the two pieces against each other, and just a dab with the microbrush lets the CA run along with the capillary action. There are various sizes of microbrush. palmerit and Ryland Craze 2 Quote
palmerit Posted October 29 Author #79 Posted October 29 Worked on the cannon for my Sherbourne. They’re just placed, not glued down (I need to do some touch up painting). KARAVOKIRIS, Stuka, JacquesCousteau and 11 others 14 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
EspenT Posted November 4 #80 Posted November 4 (edited) Hello @palmerit This is looking very nice. It looks like I am a few few behind you in the hobby and it is nice to see how others are solving problems. I especially like that you are using the airbrush. As you, I have aslo built some plastic models and there airbrushing is really the only option. It seems like it is not so common on wooden ships. I have some questions related to the painting that I hope you can answer. - Could you list the Vallejo names/codes that you have used please? - Did you also airbrush the hull? - Did you thin the Vallejo paint 50/50 with water or thinner/retarder? Or does wood require a different mix? I am looking forward to see you next updates. EDIT: one more question: How many coats of paint did you spray? Edited November 4 by EspenT Quote Current build: HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne
palmerit Posted November 5 Author #81 Posted November 5 (edited) What’s especially nice with the airbrush is that all the engraved (laser etched) details on a Vanguard model pieces stay perfectly sharp. I suppose if you have a deft hand and really thin down the paint you could do the same with a brush. I couldn’t. Here are the paints I used (I also used copper for the PE used along the hull) - they were recommended by James H, who builds the Vanguard prototypes. I bought some regular (not airbrush) versions of the same paints for when I need to paint or touch up with a brush (I found the airbrush paints often too thin for a brush). I found https://www.scalehobbyist.com to have a good selection and the best prices (at least in the US). Also https://andyshhq.com. The resellers on Amazon often charge 3-4x as much. I have restocked things like Vallejo thinner from Amazon, taking advantage of the free shipping, but you can find that sold by Amazon instead of a reseller. Vallejo acrylic primer doesn’t work on PE (unless you treat it or sandpaper it). I bought Tamiya non-acrylic primer to use with PE instead based on recommendations online (it’s in a spray can because I didn’t want to mess with non-acrylic in my airbrush). The formula I found online is 70% Vallejo Flow Improver, 30% Vallejo Thinner, and 10% Vallejo Retarder. Yeah, I know it doesn’t add up to 100%. The guy online I saw recommend it maybe failed his middle school math classes, but the formula works (if you just translate to a 7:3:1 ratio). I put the mixture in a dropper bottle. A mix of 50% this brew to 50% Vallejo airbrush paint works for me. I run my compressor at about 25psi. If using Vallejo primer, I add more of the mixture relative to paint and increase the pressure to 40psi. I also use Vallejo Matte Varnish. I tried to use Vallejo non-airbrush paint with something like a 10:1 ratio and it was a mess and I needed to take the airbrush apart to clean it. Mine is an Iwata and I have the Iwata airbrush cleaning fluid. After airbrushing, I first clean with warm water, then run through with thinner, then with Iwata cleaner (I’ll just use water and thinner if I’m just changing paints). I’m a novice but that works for me. I’ve also done a little bit of plastic modeling and I didn’t see much of a difference. Wood doesn’t need primer like plastic or PE does. In terms of coats, probably 3-4. I did way more than that on the hull because after painting I saw that the hull needed more filling and sanding. It’s often the case that a coat of paint will really highlight the blemishes. It was probably 10-12 times on the hull because I really couldn’t stand some of the obvious blemishes. It’s not perfect by any means but way better than how it started. Edited November 5 by palmerit Desertanimal, AJohnson, Thukydides and 4 others 7 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
palmerit Posted November 5 Author #82 Posted November 5 Oh, and I read not to use water with Vallejo paints. It's some kind of combo of Vallejo product that works best (some just use thinner, a lot recommend some combination of also flow improver and retarder too). Some say water is fine - and it's cheap. But I've seen folks do comparisons and the products work a lot better. AJohnson 1 Quote Current Builds: Sherbourne 1763 (Vanguard Models), Norwegian Pram (Model Shipways) In the Queue: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways), Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) Completed Builds: Lowell Grand Banks Dory (Model Shipways), 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (NRG)
EspenT Posted November 5 #83 Posted November 5 Thank you so much for the detailed write up. PaddyO 1 Quote Current build: HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.