Working with blackend brass.

[SiriusVoyager]

On the kit I am working on, the brass wire needs a bit of bending and twisting.  I want to blacken it, but I am concerned about working it after being blackened.  My plan is to anneal the brass, blacken it, then shape it.  My worry is that I will ruin the black finish by bending and twisting the metal.  If I blackened the brass after working with it, the Brass Black will stain the deadeyes.  Any suggestions on how to approach this is much appreciated.

Edited August 4 by SiriusVoyager

[RossR]

I think your concern about damaging the blackened finish is justified.  Sorry, I don't have a good solution to recommend.  Is there any other way to attache your dead eyes to the wire that require less bending after the wire is blackened?

 

 

[Glenn Houle]

This is a possible way to finish your dead eyes when installed. Gently paint them black. hope this helps

[Gregory]

What is your method for annealing the brass?

 

If you are heating it with a torch, you might consider treating it with Birchwood Casey Plum Brown.  It gives a nice dark finish that doesn't come off easily.

 

[SiriusVoyager]

1 hour ago, RossR said:

I think your concern about damaging the blackened finish is justified.  Sorry, I don't have a good solution to recommend.  Is there any other way to attache your dead eyes to the wire that require less bending after the wire is blackened?

 

 

I can’t think of another way of doing it.  The closest I can think of would be gluing the deadeye to the chainwale and making it look like the deadeyes are anchored to the hull. I’m not sure I could do it in a way that looks good. 

 

34 minutes ago, Glenn Houle said:

This is a possible way to finish your dead eyes when installed. Gently paint them black. hope this helps

That may be the simplest solution. Thanks! 

 

28 minutes ago, Gregory said:

What is your method for annealing the brass?

 

If you are heating it with a torch, you might consider treating it with Birchwood Casey Plum Brown.  It gives a nice dark finish that doesn't come off easily.

 

Yes, with a torch. I will look into the Plum Brown. 

[BANYAN]

When I did my Endeavour I pre-blackened the deadeye straps and chain plates separately (using Birchwood Casey Gun Black).  I then installed the deadeyes and used a holding jig (made from scrap wood) to hold the straps and chain plates then soldered them together.  The small area around the solder point (well away from the  deadeyes) could then be retreated after cleaning.  As this method did not require any twisting etc of the wire I did not have to worry about that particular issue.  The deadeye strips had the loop with two legs that formed a short vertical strap that was then attached to the chain plates - not sure if your deadeye strips are of a similar design? A similar approach may work for you?

 

Unfortunately much of the related photos and discussion around this part of my build were lost in the 'Great crash of MSW 1' so unable to post photos.  Also, I use resistance soldering which less aggressive than using a pencil or other flame torch.  A electric soldering wand will keep the heat down especially if it is a variable power type.

 

cheers

 

pat

[tlevine]

If you put an oil based finish on the deadeye before placing it into the chainplate, you can put the deadeye/chain plate assembly into Birchwood Casey without staining the deadeye.

[barkeater]

I bend the chain plate piece around the deadeye how I want it first. Then I pop the deadeye out and do my soldering and attach any other meatal segments if it is a multi-piece chain plate. I then blacken and coat it with varnish (Testors dull coat) which helps to lock in the blackening since it is a powder coating. I then reinsert the deadeye. I haven't had a problem doing it this way. I make the circle fairly tight but I'm able to squeeze back in the deadeyes. As I recently said in another thread, I use silver wire, but this should not make a difference.

Richard

[SiriusVoyager]

7 hours ago, tlevine said:

If you put an oil based finish on the deadeye before placing it into the chainplate, you can put the deadeye/chain plate assembly into Birchwood Casey without staining the deadeye.

Good to know. Thanks!

 

5 hours ago, barkeater said:

I bend the chain plate piece around the deadeye how I want it first. Then I pop the deadeye out and do my soldering and attach any other meatal segments if it is a multi-piece chain plate. I then blacken and coat it with varnish (Testors dull coat) which helps to lock in the blackening since it is a powder coating. I then reinsert the deadeye. I haven't had a problem doing it this way. I make the circle fairly tight but I'm able to squeeze back in the deadeyes. As I recently said in another thread, I use silver wire, but this should not make a difference.

Richard

I was assuming the wire would be too tight to get the deadeye in or out, but I can give that a try. Thanks!

Edited August 5 by SiriusVoyager

[barkeater]

Here's a pic of the chain plates. This is of the Unite as refit 1796 by the British which I'm currently working on, and the empty chain plate is as depicted on the original French design.

Richard

[SiriusVoyager]

1 hour ago, barkeater said:

Here's a pic of the chain plates...

 

 

That looks pretty good.  I will have to see if I can arrange the wire in a similar way.  I should be able to.

[Canute]

Could applying a liver of sulfur solution be used to darken the brass. It doesn't stain wood.

[tlevine]

Liver of sulfur works on copper and silver, not brass.