HM Cutter Sherbourne by Stuka - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[AJohnson]

Sanding is not the best, but as Craig said feel or touch is the best way to gauge how smooth it is. From the pictures above I think more sanding. Also holding the hull up to a light or window will show up any imperfections visually better. 

[chris watton]

I would not use filler for the first planking, especially if there are no huge gaps in between the planks, it just makes for more unnecessary work. 

Also, I do recommend a small sanding mouse, I use this on all my hulls, and for the Sherbourne, it literally took no longer than 3 minutes to sand the whole hull smooth (then using a bit of sandpaper for the extremes and more awkward areas...)

[Stuka]

22 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Also, I do recommend a small sanding mouse, I use this on all my hulls, and for the Sherbourne, it literally took no longer than 3 minutes to sand the whole hull smooth (then using a bit of sandpaper for the extremes and more awkward areas...)

Hello Chris, I was actually considering buying one, any recommendations of a particular one? 

[Stuka]

1 hour ago, AJohnson said:

Sanding is not the best, but as Craig said feel or touch is the best way to gauge how smooth it is. From the pictures above I think more sanding.

Hello Andrew,  I did sand some corners here and there and felt it with my hand several times so now It feels very smooth so hopefully all goes well.  I might had used to much wood filler though

[chris watton]

22 minutes ago, Stuka said:

Hello Chris, I was actually considering buying one, any recommendations of a particular one? 

Nothing flash, as you're just sanding wood, so something like this:

 

BLACK+DECKER Mouse Detail Sander, 55W, 240V, Corded, Includes 6 Sanding Sheets, BEW230-GB : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

 

They do save a lot of time for sanding.

Edited Thursday at 06:29 PM by chris watton

[Stuka]

21 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Nothing flash, as you're just sanding wood, so something like this:

Thanks for the tip Chris, I hope I will do your model justice 😆

[glbarlow]

On 9/13/2024 at 3:53 PM, Stuka said:

sawed the glue with my mini saw

Isopropyl alcohol is useful in loosening white/ yellow glue (not CA) glue, a modelers best friend, a better than sawing. Isolate the area with paper towels, apply it with a dropper and give it seconds not minutes to work. It may take more than once for yellow glue, white PVA separates quickly.
 

Never be reluctant to remove, back up, restart, replace. These are wood models, not assemble in place plastic ones. Wood is very forgiving if treated carefully. I’ve backed up on hull planking that I often feel like I’ve planked three sides of a hull. Often laser cut  parts are cut a little big on purpose to allow for variations in each build, no two models are the same. You can sand it smaller, can’t make in bigger. As pointed out getting the ‘infrastructure’ or bones of the model correct is crucial to your enjoyment at later stages. 
 

Vanguard models are excellent, both for quality of parts and depth of instruction. You’re off to a good start. Have fun. Although without Chris’ skill and while I have that mouse sander I rarely use it for fear of losing the symmetry of the hull. I just sand away by hand. 

Edited Thursday at 07:04 PM by glbarlow

[Stuka]

44 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Isopropyl alcohol is useful in loosening white/ yellow glue (not CA) glue, a modelers best friend, a better than sawing. Isolate the area with paper towels, apply it with a dropper and give it seconds not minutes to work. It may take more than once for yellow glue, white PVA separates quickly.

I did see it being mentioned before. I just gotta find out where I can get some of it in my town. 

[glbarlow]

Any hardware store. And correction. Denatured alcohol (also used as camp stove fuel) not isopropyl alcohol 

[Ronald-V]

11 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Although without Chris’ skill and while I have that mouse sander I rarely use it for fear of losing the symmetry of the hull. I just sand away by hand. 

Same here...it would feel like too little control to me. With sandpaper grid 80 or 100/120 it comes off just like that, especially such a small hull. But if you like it better with a machine, go for it

[Craigie65]

11 hours ago, glbarlow said:

. Denatured alcohol

Might be known as methylated spirits, or even just meths.  Hardware stores and even amazon will sell it.

I use isopropyl alcohol rubbing alcohol.  It works well on PVA but can strip acrylic paint!

[Stuka]

Thanks for the tips, Ill take a look around and see if I find anything 👍

Edited Friday at 05:02 PM by Stuka

[Stuka]

Hello 

So 2nd plank layer, I looked around on the forum and elsewhere to see how people attached the planks if they used PVA glue. And since I dont own any good pins for that I ultimately decided to go full CA glue.  Starting from the bow adding some glue then pressing the plank until the glue has taken its grip and thereafter moving towards the stern.  However with the first set of planks I thought for some reason that the planks where going to end right before the stern planking patterns (part 60 R/L) . I realized this mistake and tried correcting it with the 2nd pair of planks.  Its not a big deal I think we are talking about 1 mm of plank.  Also wont this area be covered with the waterline "plank" the one I see painted black in the pictures anyways not a big deal I think ultimately, moving on.  With the tapering like the manual suggests I only tapered my planks by the bow down to 3mm from the 2nd bulkhead and im quite happy with the result.  Working with CA glue is not ideal cause several times my fingers get stuck and leave these ugly marks on the planks so im lucky this will be sanded down and painted over. I can imagine why people would rather use PVA glue especially if the hull is not going to be painted.  

[chris watton]

CA glue is fine for 2nd planking, I have always use it.

[Ronald-V]

Personally I find working with scaled planks easier than a plank as long as the hull (or at least shorter lengths). For example in my Sphinx build I used 12cm long planks. On the back I put a few narrow stripes of PVA with empty spaces between these stripes spread over the plank. In the empty spaces I put a small drop of CA. This way you can work accurately and calmly with the glue without having to work on the model. After I have applied the glue to the plank I still have more than enough time to position the plank. Hold it for a few seconds and it stays perfectly in place. Everyone develops their own way of working that suits them...find your way  

Edited Sunday at 05:48 PM by Ronald-V