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Posted

Fairing continues to be a slow, tedious process. Having already finished the port side (more or less), I'm now about midway through fairing the starboard side, starting at the bow and moving aft. In general, I wish that I had cut the frames slightly closer to the lines, as I left a lot of meat on them which has made for a lot of sanding.

20251114_094021.thumb.jpg.2741a0d1a920024707282c9ce6dba1a7.jpg

 

On the other hand, I've come across a frame that's too low in one spot. Frame 2's floor is a little too low compared with the other side, low enough that I can't simply sand down the other frames to meet it without throwing off the hull shape compared to the other side. I had noticed the divot when I was making the frames, but as it didn't go below the line, I thought I'd be able to fair it out. Ths spot is circled below.

20251114_093027.thumb.jpg.dddcb4e455f87a0e5f7925f10b3a62f9.jpg

 

As I see it, I have two options here. One is to remake the floor. This would give the nicest end result, but would also take a lot of work--debonding the floor not just from the futtocks, but from the keel, where it's held by a pin as well as glue, and then getting everything glued up properly without screwing up the existing fairing.

 

The second option would be to build the frame up slightly with some thin layers of planed alder, cut from the same thickness as the frame parts. 

20251114_094541.thumb.jpg.28543b4a7bcf1dce002f202566ef605d.jpg

 

I think two layers in the lowest part of the divot should be enough to bring it fair again. The repair will be covered from the exterior by the planking, although this will require me to plank up to at least that spot and not leave the lower hull open, something I was considering doing. The view from the interior will be blocked from above and ahead by the foredeck, but may be slightly visible viewing from aft. That said, I don't think it would be all that noticeable.

 

Any suggestions? I'm leaning toward trying the second option--if it works, it is the much easier repair, and if it doesn't, that piece will need to be replaced anyway.

Posted (edited)

Great job Jacques. I would build it up

🙂 I’ve done it on just about every model I’ve built:-)

Edited by Bryan Woods
Posted

Building it up is my vote, Jacques. 

Current Builds: Billy 1938 Homemade Sternwheeler

                            Mosquito Fleet Mystery Sternwheeler

                            Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                            Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Sternwheeler and Barge from the Susquehanna Rivers Hard Coal Navy

                      1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                      1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

 Perfection is an illusion, often chased, never caught

Posted

If it was me it would depend on how visible you expect the frame to be. If you are planning to plank the area (or only plank one side of the hull, then you could choose to do so on that side), then I would just build it up. Otherwise I would probably try to remake it (though I am a bit of a perfectionist, one I know a problem exists I have trouble unseeing it).

 

That being said it is probably best to at least try option two first. You can then decide how much of a blemish it is and if you can live with it.

 

In any case the model is looking great. Looking forward to seeing you progress it.

Posted

Thanks, all, for the comments and suggestions! I decided to try layering some thin alder shavings. After trimming and sanding, the repair is not very noticeable. The built-up frame is indicated below, it looks pretty much like the other frames. Some layering is visible right next to the keel, but that will be covered by the garboard.

20251114_135937.thumb.jpg.13b2797fa87efdb85f6f39f670997cc1.jpg

 

From ahead, a very thin line from the layering is visible, but only barely.

20251114_140213.thumb.jpg.ed64bedf753c0f724888a6fee4b80117.jpg

 

And from aft, the only way it will be seen if I totally plank the hull, it's negligible.

20251114_135958.thumb.jpg.17826b83f028d606221f3acb2343d134.jpg

 

I assume that the repair would be more visible if I applied an oil finish, due to the glue blocking absorption, but at the moment I'm thinking of finishing the hull interior in shellac. I'll have to test whether shellac over glued wood looks all that different from shellac over unglued wood.

Posted

 I see nothing! 

Current Builds: Billy 1938 Homemade Sternwheeler

                            Mosquito Fleet Mystery Sternwheeler

                            Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                            Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Sternwheeler and Barge from the Susquehanna Rivers Hard Coal Navy

                      1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                      1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

 Perfection is an illusion, often chased, never caught

Posted

Reading your post reminded me of when I had the exact same problem but mine was on the transom.  I too had to build up a piece exactly as you have and at the time I felt as though it would stand out a mile.  In fact I even thought about rebuilding the transom completely to resolve the issue.  Now a couple of years later I was putting shellac on the transom and I had completely forgot about the repair and unless you knew about it - well it's invisible.  A very nice repair on your part. 

Posted

Thanks, all! @Some Idea, I hadn’t remembered that from your build. Looking at it, your repair really is pretty much invisible. It's good to know that the shellac shouldn't give me any trouble on this section.

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